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<pre>Title: Journals of Two Expeditions
Author: John Oxley
* A Project Gutenberg of Australia eBook *
eBook No.: e00037.html
Language: English
Date first posted:  March 2014
Most recent update: March 2014

This eBook was produced by: Colin Choat

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<hr>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="image-02" id="image-02"></a><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0002.jpg"><br>
<br></p>
<hr>
<h2>JOURNALS</h2>
<h4>OF</h4>
<h2>TWO EXPEDITIONS</h2>
<h3>INTO THE INTERIOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES,</h3>
<h4>UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER OF THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT IN THE<br>
YEARS 1817-18.</h4>
<hr class="longer">
<h2>BY JOHN OXLEY,</h2>
<h4>SURVEYOR GENERAL OF THE TERRITORY AND LIEUTENANT OF THE ROYAL
NAVY.</h4>
<hr class="longer">
<h4>WITH</h4>
<h3>MAPS AND VIEWS OF THE INTERIOR, OR NEWLY DISCOVERED
COUNTRY.</h3>
<hr>
<h3>LONDON:</h3>
<h4>JOHN MURRAY, ALBERMARLE-STREET.</h4>
<hr class="short">
<h2>1820</h2>
<hr>
<p style="margin-left:20%">Production notes:<br>
<br>
12 items of errata listed in the paper book have been silently
corrected in this eBook.<br>
<br>
Notes included within the text have been included as a foootnote at
the end of<br>
the paragraph in which the note is referenced.</p>
<hr>
<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
<p style="margin-left:20%"><a href="#ch-1">Part I</a><br>
<br>
<a href="#ch-1-1">Inroduction</a><br>
<a href="#ch-1-2">Journal of an Expedition in Australia Part
I.</a><br>
<br>
<a href="#ch-2">Part II</a><br>
<br>
<a href="#ch-2-1">Preface</a><br>
<a href="#ch-2-2">Journal of an Expedition un Australia Part
II.</a><br>
<br>
<a href="#ch-3">Appendix Part I.</a><br>
<a href="#ch-3-1">No. I.</a> Instructions for conducting and
leading first expedition.<br>
<a href="#ch-3-2">No. II</a> Report of tour over Blue Mountains in
1815 by the Governor.<br>
<a href="#ch-3-3">No. III</a> Letter from Oxley to Governor
advising of his return from first expedition.<br>
<br>
<a href="#ch-4">Appendix Part II.</a><br>
<a href="#ch-4-4">No. IV</a> Diary of Mr. Evans, from 8th to 18th
of July, 1818.<br>
<a href="#ch-4-5">No. V.</a> Governor's report on the return of
Oxley from the second expedition,<br>
together with a letter from Oxley on his arrival at Port
Stephens.<br>
<a href="#ch-4-6">No. VI.</a> Governor's report on Oxley's
discovery of Port Stephens together with a<br>
letter from Oxley to the Governor on this subject.<br>
<br>
<a href="#ch-5">A brief abstract of the population of N.S.W in
1815, 1816 and 1817.</a><br>
<br>
<a href="#ch-6">A statement of land in cultivation, quantities of
stock, etc. from 1813 to 1817 inclusive.</a><br>
<br>
<a href="#ch-7">List of Plates</a><br>
<br>
<a href="#ch-8">List of Charts</a><br>
<br>
<a href="#ch-9">INDEX</a></p>
<hr>
<h2><a name="ch-7" id="ch-7"></a>List of Plates.</h2>
<p style="margin-left:30%"><a href="#image-7-1">1.</a> Field Plains
from Mount Aymot.<br>
<br>
<a href="#image-7-2">2.</a> The Grave of a Native of Australia.<br>
<br>
<a href="#image-7-3">3.</a> Arbuthnot's Range, from the West.<br>
<br>
<a href="#image-7-4">4.</a> Liverpool Plains. West Prospect from
View Hill.<br>
<br>
<a href="#image-7-5">5.</a> Bathurst's Falls.<br>
<br>
<a href="#image-7-6">6.</a> A Native Chief of Bathurst.</p>
<hr>
<h2><a name="ch-8" id="ch-8"></a>List of Charts</h2>
<p style="margin-left:20%"><a href="#chart-8-1">1.</a> Range of the
Thermometer from April 9th to August 30th 1817 by John Oxley.<br>
<br>
<a href="#chart-8-2">2.</a> A Chart of Part of the Interior of New
South Wales, 1817. First Expedition.<br>
<br>
<a href="#chart-8-3">3.</a> A Chart of Part of the Interior of New
South Wales, 1818. Second Expedition.<br>
<br>
<a href="#chart-8-4">4.</a> Reduced Sketch of the Two
Expeditions.<br>
<br>
<a href="#chart-8-5">5.</a> A Plan of Port Macquarie Including a
Sketch of Part of Hastings River, on the<br>
East Coast of New South Wales.<br>
<br>
<a href="#chart-8-6">6.</a> A General Statement of the Inhabitants
of New South Wales as per General Muster<br>
commencing 28th September 1818, with an account of same at Van
Diemmens Land.<br>
<br>
<a href="#chart-8-7">7.</a> A General Statement of the Land in
Cultivation etc., the quantities of Stock etc.,<br>
as accounted for at the General Muster, with an account of same at
Van Diemmens Land.</p>
<hr>
<h2><a name="ch-1" id="ch-1"></a>JOURNAL</h2>
<h4>OF AN</h4>
<h3>EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA</h3>
<hr class="short">
<h3>Part I.</h3>
<hr class="short">
<hr>
<h4>TO</h4>
<h3>HIS EXCELLENCY</h3>
<h2>LACHLAN MACQUARIE, ESQ.</h2>
<h3>MAJOR GENERAL IN THE ARMY,</h3>
<h4>AND</h4>
<h3>CAPTAIN GENERAL AND GOVERNOR IN CHIEF IN AND OVER THE
TERRITORY<br>
OF NEW SOUTH WALES AND ITS DEPENDENCIES,</h3>
<h4>THE FOLLOWING</h4>
<h2>JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION,</h2>
<h3>PERFORMED UNDER HIS ADMINISTRATION AND DIRECTION,</h3>
<h3>IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,</h3>
<h4>BY HIS VERY OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT,</h4>
<h2>JOHN OXLEY.</h2>
<hr>
<h3><a name="ch-1-1" id="ch-1-1"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h3>
<p>The colony had been established many years before any successful
attempt had been made to penetrate into the interior of the
country, by crossing the range of hills, known to the colonists as
the Blue Mountains: these mountains were considered as the boundary
of the settlements westward, the country beyond them being deemed
inaccessible.</p>
<p>The year 1813 proving extremely dry, the grass was nearly all
destroyed, and the water failed; the horned cattle suffered
severely from this drought, and died in great numbers. It was at
this period that three gentlemen, Lieutenant Lawson, of the Royal
Veteran Company, Messrs. Blaxland, and William Wentworth,
determined upon attempting a passage across these mountains, in
hopes of finding a country which would afford support to their
herds during this trying season.</p>
<p>They crossed the Nepean River at Emu Plains, and ascending the
first range of mountains, were entangled among gullies and deep
ravines for a considerable time, insomuch that they began to
despair of ultimate success. At length they were fortunate enough
to find a main dividing range, along the ridge of which they
travelled, observing that it led them westward. After suffering
many hardships, their distinguished perseverance was at length
rewarded by the view of a country, which at first sight promised
them all they could wish.</p>
<p>Into this Land of Promise they descended by a steep mountain,
which Governor Macquarie has since named Mount York.<sup>[*]</sup>
The valley<sup>[**]</sup> to which it gave them access was covered
with grass, and well watered by a small stream running easterly,
and which was subsequently found to fall into the Nepean River.
From Mount York they proceeded westerly eight or ten miles, passing
during the latter part of the way through an open country, but
broken into steep hills. Seeing that the stream before mentioned as
watering the valley ran easterly, it was evident they had not yet
crossed the ranges which it was supposed would give source to
waters falling westerly; they had however proceeded sufficiently
far for their purpose, and ascertained that no serious obstacles
existed to a farther progress westward.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* This mountain was found to be 795 feet in
perpendicular height above the vale of Clwydd.]</p>
<p class="footnote">[** Named by Governor Macquarie the Vale of
Clwydd.]</p>
<p>Their provisions being nearly expended, they returned to Sydney,
after an absence of little more than a month; and the report of
their discoveries opened new prospects to the colonists, who had
began to fear that their narrow and confined limits would not long
afford pasture and subsistence for their greatly increasing flocks
and herds.</p>
<p>His Excellency Governor Macquarie, with that promptitude which
distinguishes his character, resolved not to let slip so favourable
an opportunity of obtaining a farther knowledge of the interior.
Mr. Evans, the deputy surveyor, was directed to proceed With a
party, and follow up the discoveries already made. He crossed the
Nepean River on the 20th of November, 1813, and on the 26th arrived
at the termination of Messrs. Lawson, Blaxland, and Wentworth's
journey. Proceeding westward, he crossed a
mountainous<sup>[*]</sup> broken country, the grass of which was
good, and the valleys well-watered, until the 30th, when he came to
a small stream, running westerly; this stream, called by him the
Fish River, he continued to trace until the 7th of December,
passing through a very fine country, adapted to every purpose
either of agriculture or grazing; when he met another stream coming
from the southward: this latter stream he named Campbell River, and
when joined with the Fish River, the united streams received the
name of the Macquarie River, in honour of his excellency the
present governor of New South Wales.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* Since named Clarence Hilly Range.]</p>
<p>Mr. Evans continued to trace the Macquarie River until December
the 18th, passing over rich tracts clear of timber, well-watered,
and offering every advantage which a country in its natural state
can be supposed to afford. During this excursion, Mr. Evans fell in
with abundance of kangaroos and emus, and the river abounded with
fine fish: he saw only six natives during the whole time of his
absence, viz. two women and four children, although on his return
he observed many fires in the neighbourhood of the mountains. On
the 8th of January, 1814, he returned to Emu Plains, having gone in
the whole near one hundred miles in a direct line due west from the
Nepean River.</p>
<p>From the report of Mr. Evans, Governor Macquarie was induced to
believe that a road might be opened for the whole distance already
surveyed, and was most anxious that the colony should reap as soon
as possible the advantages, which the discovery of such extensive
and fertile tracts seemed to open.</p>
<p>The ample means afforded for this purpose enabled Mr. Cox, to
whose superintendence this work was entrusted, to complete a road
passable for loaded carriages early in 1815. This road extended in
length upwards of one hundred miles, the first fifty of which
passed along a narrow ridge of the Blue Mountains, bounded on each
side by deep ravines, and precipitous rocks. The road which was cut
down Mount York was a work of considerable labour and magnitude,
and reflected the highest credit upon all employed in it. This
important task being finished, the governor resolved in person to
visit a country of which so much had been said, and to judge from
actual observation how far the sanguine hopes which had been
entertained were likely to be realized; his excellency therefore,
accompanied by Mrs. Macquarie and his suite, set out from Emu
Plains on the 26th of April, 1815, and arrived on the 4th of May at
a small encampment (the site of which had been previously
selected), on Bathurst Plains, near the termination of Mr. Evans's
journey. Governor Macquarie having been pleased to publish for the
information of the colonists such observations on the country as he
deemed necessary, I shall not presume to add any thing to an
account, which so clearly and accurately describes all that could
be interesting or beneficial to the colonist and general
inquirer.</p>
<p>I have therefore inserted in the Appendix the account published
by the Governor in the Sydney Gazette, of the 10th of June, 1815,
as affording the best and most authentic information on the
subject. During the Governor's stay at Bathurst, he despatched Mr.
Evans, and a party with a month's provisions, to explore the
country to the south-west, and it is the result of that journey
which led to the expedition, the direction of which was entrusted
to my command.</p>
<p>The means which his excellency placed at my disposal were well
calculated to attain the object in view, and it is a matter of the
most sincere regret, that the nature and description of the country
which we passed through was for the most part such as to afford few
interesting objects of research or remark.</p>
<p>The botanical productions of the country have however in a great
measure been ascertained by Mr. Allan Cunningham, the King's
botanist, who accompanied the expedition.</p>
<p>With respect to the construction of the chart prefixed to this
Journal, it is thought proper to observe, that the situation of the
principal stations of Bathurst, and the depot on the Lachlan River,
were ascertained by celestial observations, and connected by a
series of triangles, commencing at the latter point, and closing at
Bathurst. New base lines were frequently measured, and any
unavoidable errors which might arise from the nature of the country
were corrected at every proper opportunity by observed latitudes;
so that on the return of the expedition to Bathurst, I had the
satisfaction to find the connection of the angles complete, the
error in the whole survey not exceeding a mile of longitude.</p>
<p>The instruments chiefly used were a small theodolite by Ramsden,
and Kater's pocket compass,<sup>[*]</sup> with the addition of an
excellent sextant, pocket chronometer, and artificial horizon. I
have to lament that our mountain barometers were broken at an early
stage of the expedition; the height however of some principal
points had been previously obtained, and is marked on the chart;
these in two instances were verified by geometrical measurement,
and the difference was found to be too trilling to be noticed. The
conveyance of such delicate instruments is always attended with
great risk, and in our case peculiarly so, our means being only
those of horseback. I am afraid that a method of constructing those
instruments, so as to place them beyond the reach of injury by
carriage, will always remain among the desiderata of science. I
have given to our thermometrical observations the form of a chart,
as affording the readiest view of the atmospherical changes which
took place during our journey. The winds and weather are also more
particularly noticed on the same sheet than in the narrative.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* A most valuable instrument, combining all
the advantages of the circumferentor, without being so liable to be
damaged and put out of order by carriage.]</p>
<p>It may perhaps be not superfluous to mention, that it is the
intention of His Majesty's Government to follow the course of the
Macquarie River, and it is sanguinely expected that the result of
the contemplated expedition will be such as to leave no longer in
doubt the true character of the country comprising the interior of
this vast island. It would be as presumptuous as useless to
speculate on the probable termination of the Macquarie River, when
a few months will (it is to be hoped) decide the long disputed
point, whether Australia, with a surface nearly as extensive as
Europe, is, from its geological formation, destitute of rivers,
either terminating in interior seas, or having their estuaries on
the coast.</p>
<p>J. O.<br>
Sydney, New South Wales,<br>
Dec. 11, 1817.</p>
<hr>
<h2><a name="ch-1-2" id="ch-1-2"></a>JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION IN
AUSTRALIA�Part I</h2>
<hr>
<p>On the twenty-fourth of March I received the instructions of his
excellency the Governor to take charge of the expedition which had
been fitted out for the purpose of ascertaining the course of the
Lachlan River, and generally to prosecute the examination of the
western interior of New South Wales.</p>
<p>On the sixth of April I quitted Sydney, and after a pleasant
journey arrived at Bathurst on the fourteenth, and found that our
provisions and other necessary stores were in readiness at the
depot on the Lachlan River. We were detained at Bathurst by rainy
unfavourable weather until the nineteenth, when the morning proving
fine, the <i>b�t</i> horses, with the remainder of the provisions,
baggage, and instruments, were sent off, we intending to follow
them the ensuing morning.</p>
<p>Bathurst had assumed a very different appearance since I first
visited it in the suite of his excellency the Governor in 1815. The
industrious hand of man had been busy in improving the beautiful
works of nature; a good substantial house for the superintendant
had been erected, the government grounds fenced in, and the stack
yards showed that the abundant produce of the last harvest had
amply repaid the labour bestowed on its culture. The fine healthy
appearance of the flocks and herds was a convincing proof how
admirably adapted these extensive downs and thinly wooded hills are
for grazing, more particularly of sheep. The mind dwelt with
pleasure on the idea that at no very distant period these secluded
plains would be covered with flocks bearing the richest fleeces,
and contribute in no small degree to the prosperity of the eastern
settlements.</p>
<p>The soil, in the immediate neighbourhood of Bathurst, is for the
first six inches of a light, black, vegetable mould, lying on a
stratum of sand, about eighteen inches deep, but of a poor
description, and mixed with small stones, under which is a strong
clay. The surface of the hills is covered with small gravel, the
soil light and sandy, with a sub-soil of clay. The low flats on the
immediate borders of the river are evidently formed by washings
from the hills and valleys deposited by floods, and the
overflowings of the watercourses.</p>
<p>Sunday, April 20.�Proceeded on our journey towards the
Lachlan River. At two o'clock we arrived at the head of Queen
Charlotte's Valley, passing through a fine open grazing country;
the soil on the hills and in the vale a light clayey loam,
occasionally intermixed with sand and gravel: the late rains had
rendered the ground soft and boggy. The trees were small and
stunted, and thinly scattered over the hills, which frequently
closed in stony points on the valley. The rocks a coarse
granite.</p>
<p>Monday, April 21.�Our journey for the greater part of the
way lay over stony ridges, and for the last six miles over a
country much wooded with ill-grown gum and stringy bark trees (all
of the eucalyptus genus); the grass good, and in tolerable plenty,
and much more so than the appearance of the soil would seem to
promise. At three o'clock, the horses being very much fatigued, we
stopped under the point of a rocky hill for the evening.</p>
<p>April 22.�A clear and frosty morning. Last night was the
coldest we had yet experienced, the thermometer being at six
o'clock as low as 26. We felt the cold most severely, being far
beyond what we had been accustomed to on the coast; the difference
of temperature in twelve hours being upwards of twenty degrees of
cold. Our route lay through a dull uninteresting country, thickly
covered with dwarf timber, daviesia, etc. Passed under Mount
Lachlan, a hill of very considerable height; a stream of water runs
north-westerly under its base. Turned off a little from our track
to the right, and ascended Mount Molle, whence there is a beautiful
and extensive prospect from the south by the west to the north. The
country (except the dividing range between the Lachlan and
Macquarie Rivers, which is very lofty and irregular) rising into
gentle hills, thinly timbered, with rich intervening valleys,
through which flow small streams of water. I think from Mount
Molle, between the points above mentioned, a distance of forty
miles round may he seen; the view to the west being lost in the
blue haze of the horizon, no hills appearing in that quarter. The
Mount itself is a fine rich hill, favourably situated for a
commanding prospect; the valleys which surround it are excellent
land, well watered with running streams. We descended its west
side, and stopped for the night in the valley beneath, on the banks
of a small rivulet.</p>
<p>April 23.�A fine clear morning. At two o'clock we arrived
at Limestone Creek, passing through a beautiful picturesque country
of low hills and fine valleys well watered: the timber, as usual of
diminutive growth, and unfit for any useful purpose. The ridges of
the higher eminences were invariably stony, and about a mile and a
half from the Creek, there is a narrow slip of barren country
covered with small slate stones: the soil until then was on the
sides of the hills of a fine vegetable mould, the more level and
lower grounds a hazel-coloured stiff loam, both equally covered
with grass, particularly the anthistria. The timber standing at
wide intervals, without any brush or undergrowth, gave the country
a fine park-like appearance. I never saw a country better adapted
for the grazing of all kinds of stock than that we passed over this
day. The limestone, which is the first that has hitherto been
discovered in Australia, abounds in the valley where we halted; the
sides and abrupt projections of the hills being composed entirely
of it, and worn by the operation of time into a thousand whimsical
shapes and forms. A small stream runs through the valley, which in
June 1815 was dry; the bottom of this rivulet was covered with a
variety of stones, but the bases of the hills which projected into
it, and from which the earth had been washed, were of pure
limestone of a bluish grey colour.</p>
<p>April 24.�A fine mild morning. A small piece of limestone
which had been put in the fire last night was found perfectly
calcined into the purest white lime. At eight o'clock proceeded on
our journey, through a very uninteresting but good grazing country:
nature here seemed to have assumed her tamest and most unvarying
hue. The soil of the country we passed through was generally
excellent, but the timber was still as useless as we had hitherto
found it. We arrived about one o'clock at a small pond of water,
where it was necessary to stop, as there was no other water nearer
than the Lachlan River, which was distant about fourteen miles.</p>
<p>April 25.�Our course for the first seven or eight miles
was through a level open country, the soil and grass indifferently
good. We now ascended a hill a little to the left of the road, for
the purpose of viewing the country through which the river ran: it
appeared a perfect plain encompassed by moderately high hills,
except in the south-east and west quarters, these being apparently
the points whence and to which the river flows. The whole country a
forest of eucalypti, with occasionally on the banks of the river a
space clear of timber: there was nothing either grand or
interesting in the view from this hill, neither did I see in any
direction such high land as might be expected to give source to a
river of magnitude. When we quitted the hill, we went west, to make
the Lachlan River, passing for nearly six miles over a perfect
level, the land poor, and in places scrubby. At two o'clock saw the
river, which certainly did not disappoint me: it was evidently much
higher than usual, running a strong stream; the banks very steep,
but not so as to render the water inaccessible: the land on each
side quite flat, and thinly clothed with small trees; the soil a
rich light loam: higher points occasionally projected on the river,
and on those the soil was by no means so good. The largest trees
were growing immediately at the water's edge on both sides, and
from their position formed an arch over the river, obscuring it
from observation, although it was from thirty to forty yards
across. At four o'clock we arrived at the depot.</p>
<p>We had scarcely alighted from our horses, when natives were seen
in considerable numbers on the other side of the river. I went down
opposite to them, and after some little persuasion about twenty of
them swam across, having their galengar or stone hatchet in one
hand, which on their landing they threw at our feet, to show us
that they were as much divested of arms as ourselves. After staying
a short time they were presented with some kangaroo flesh, with
which they re-crossed the river, and kindled their fires. They were
very stout and manly, well featured, with long beards: there were a
few cloaks among them made of the opossum skin, and it was evident
that some of the party had been at Bathurst, from their making use
of several English words, and from their readily comprehending many
of our questions.</p>
<p>April 26.�Fine clear warm weather. The natives were still
on the opposite bank, and five of them came over to us in the
course of the morning; but remained a very short time. During the
last night a few fine shrimps were caught; the soldiers stationed
at the depot said they had frequently taken them in considerable
numbers. During the day arranged the loads for the boats and
horses, that they might be enabled to set off early the next
morning.</p>
<p>April 27.�Loaded the boats with as much of the salt
provisions as they could safely carry, and despatched them to wait
at the first creek about seven or eight miles down the river until
the loaded horses came, and then to assist in taking their loads
over the creek; intending myself to follow with the remainder of
the baggage early to-morrow morning.</p>
<p>The observations which were made here placed the depot in lat.
33. 40.S., and in long. 148. 21. E., the variation of the needle
being 7. 47. E. The barometrical observations, which had been
regularly taken from Sydney to this place, did not give us an
elevation of more than six hundred feet above the level of the sea;
a circumstance which, considering our distance from the west coast,
surprised me much.</p>
<p>The few words of which we were enabled to obtain the meaning
from the natives who occasionally visited its, being different from
those used by the natives on the east coast, it way perhaps be
interesting to insert them.</p>
<pre>AUSTRALIAN.     ENGLISH.

Nh-air,         The eyebrows.
Whada,          The ears.
Ulan-gar,)      The head.
Nat-tang,)
Anany,          The beard.
Morro,          The nose.
Er-ra,          The teeth.
Mill-a,         The eyes.
Narra,          The fingers.
Bulla-yega,     The hair of the head.
Chu-ang,        The mouth.
0-ro,           The neck.
Bargar,         The arms.
Ben-ing,        The breast.
Bur-bing,       The belly.
Mille-aar,      The loins.
Dha-na,         The thighs.
Wolm-ga,        The knees.
Dhee-nany,      The feet.
Dhu-a,          The back.
Mor-aya,        Bones worn in the cartilage of the nose.
Mada,           Skins, with which they are clothed.
Wamb-aur,       Scars, raised for ornament, or distinction,
                on their bodies.
Gum-iil,        Girdles worn round the body.
Un-elenar,      One night.
Gow,            Woman.
Mar-o-gu-la,    Another tribe.
Mem-aa,         A native man.
Wam-aa,         A kind of hornet's-nest, which they eat.
Warenur,        Fire.
Curr-eli,       Timber, or trees.
Galu-nur,       Thistles, the roots of which they eat.
Gulura,         The moon.
Yandu,          Sleep.
Galen-gar,)
Ori-al,   )     Stone hatchets.
Ta-wi-uth,)
</pre>
<p>The above were all the words the meaning of which we could
clearly comprehend: the words used by the natives on the coast to
express the same objects have not the remotest resemblance to the
above.</p>
<p>April 28.�Fine clear mild weather. Proceeded with the
remainder of the baggage to join the boats down the river; arrived
at Lewis's Creek, which, although nearly dry when crossed by Mr.
Evans in 1815, is now a considerable stream. The distance from the
depot is about nine miles; the country on both banks of the river
low but good: the upper levels would afford excellent grazing, but
the soil is of inferior quality: the points of the low hills end
alternately on each side the river. The land up both banks of
Lewis's Creek is very rich, and covered with herbage. The boats had
come safely down the river, although the large boat grounded once;
the river appears to me to be from three to five feet above its
usual level.</p>
<p>Several specimens of crystallized quartz were found on the
adjoining hills, also some small pieces of good iron ore.</p>
<p>April 29.�Proceeded on our journey down the river,
directing the boats to stop at the creek which terminated Mr.
Evans's former journey. The country through which we passed this
day in every respect resembles the tracts we have already gone
over. The crowns and ridges of the hills are uniformly stony and
barren, ending as before alternately on each side of the river; the
greater proportion of good flat land lies on the south side of the
river; there are however very rich and fertile tracts on this side.
After riding about eight miles, we ascended a considerable hill
upon our right, from the top of which we could see to a
considerable distance; between the south-west and north-north-west,
a very low level tract lay west of us, and no hill whatever bounded
the view in that quarter. Three remarkable hummocks bore
respectively S. 72. W., S. 51� W. and S. 34� W., within which range
of bearing the country was uniformly level, or rising into such low
hills, as not to be distinguished from the general surface. The
tops of distant ranges could be discerned over low hills in the
north-west, whilst, from north by the east to south, the country
was broken into hill and valley. The whole of this extensive scene
was covered with eucalypti, whilst on the rocky summits of the
hills in the immediate neighbourhood a species of callitris was
eminently distinguished. From this extensive view I named the hill
Mount Prospect.</p>
<p>At five o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at the place where
the horses had been directed to wait for the boats, but they had
not arrived; the distance is at least doubled by following the
immediate course of the stream, but I had calculated that its
rapidity would make up for the distance, and enable the boats to
keep pace with the horses.</p>
<p>At six o'clock the boats arrived safe, the men having had a very
fatiguing row, and been obliged to clear the passage of fallen
trees, and other obstructions; so that we determined to give them
some repose, and halt here for the night. At half past eight
o'clock proceeded down the river, intending to stop at the
termination of Mr. Evans's journey in 1815, about five miles
further, for the purpose of repairing the small boat, which had
sustained some slight damage in coming down the river yesterday. I
rode about three miles back into the country; the callitris was
here more frequent, though not of large growth; the soil is not
good. In returning to the river we came upon the creek which
terminated Mr. Evans's journey, down which we travelled until we
came to the river, about half a mile from which is a large shallow
lagoon, full of ducks, bustards, black swans and red-hills. At
twelve o'clock the horses arrived at the mouth of the creek, and
the boats half an hour afterwards. The banks of the creek were very
steep, and it was three o'clock before all the provisions were got
over. The creek was named Byrne's Creek, after one of the present
party, who had accompanied Mr. Evans in his former journey.</p>
<p>May 1.�The creek fell upwards of a foot during the night,
by which some of the articles in the large boat received damage.
Commenced the survey of the river from this point. The flats on
both sides the river were very extensive, and in general good; the
same timber and grass as usual; the stream was from thirty to forty
yards broad on an average. There was not even a hillock on which to
ascend during this day's route, so that our view was bounded by
less than a mile on each side of the river. Traces of the natives
were observed, but no natives were seen. The boats were much
impeded by fallen timber: it was half past two o'clock when they
arrived at the place where I intended to halt, although we had only
gone between nine and ten miles.</p>
<p>The trees on the immediate banks of the river were very large
and ramified, but few of them were useful: another species of
callitris was seen to-day.</p>
<p>May 2.�Our journey this day was very fatiguing, the grass
being nearly breast high, thick, and entangled. The soil is
tolerably good within a mile and a half of the banks: I rode five
or six miles out, in hopes of finding some eminence on which to
ascend, but was disappointed, the country continuing a dead level,
with extensive swamps, and barren brushes. The timber, dwarf box,
and gum trees (all eucalypti), with a few cypresses and casuarinas,
scattered here and there: few traces of the natives were seen, and
none recent. Upon the swamps were numerous swans and other wild
fowl. In the evening we caught nearly a hundred weight of fine
fish.</p>
<p>May 3.�Proceeded down the river. We passed over a very
barren desolate country, perfectly level, without even the
slightest eminence, covered with dwarf box-trees and scrubby
bushes; towards the latter part of the day a few small cypresses
were seen. I think the other side of the river is much the same. We
have hitherto met with no water except at the river, and a few
shallow lagoons, which are evidently dry in summer. I do not know
how far this level extends north and south, but I cannot estimate
it at less than from ten to twelve miles on each side; but this is
mere conjecture, since for the last three days I have been unable
to see beyond a mile: I have, however, occasionally made excursions
of five or six miles, and never perceived any difference in the
elevation of the country. To-day the course of the river has been a
little south of west: its windings are very frequent and sudden,
fully accounting for the apparent heights of the floods, of which
marks were observed about thirty-six feet above the level of the
stream. At six o'clock the boats had not arrived; and as I had
given directions on no account to attempt to proceed after dark, I
ceased to expect them this evening.</p>
<p>May 4.�As soon as it was light I sent two men up the river
to search for the boat: at nine o'clock one of them returned,
having found it about four miles back. It appeared that the large
boat had got stoved against a tree under water, and that the people
were obliged to unload and haul her on shore to undergo some
repairs, which they had effected; but the rain prevented them from
paying her bottom. They expected to be able to proceed in an hour
or two, as the weather had begun to clear up. It was fortunate that
no damage had befallen any part of the boat's lading. At twelve
proceeded about three quarters of a mile down the river, and from a
small eminence half a mile north of it, an extensive tract of clear
country was seen, bearing N. 50. W., about two or three miles from
us, having a low range of hills bounding them in the direction of
S. 65. W. and N. 65. E. The river wound immediately under the hill,
taking a westerly direction as far as I went, which was about three
miles; its windings were very sudden, and its width and depth much
the same as before. The country, as far as I could see, was
precisely similar to that already passed over: the hills were slaty
and barren, with a few small cypresses: in fact, I have seen them
grow on no other spots so frequently as on those stony hills. The
boats arrived about two o'clock.</p>
<p>May 5.�Proceeded down the river, ascended the eminence
mentioned yesterday, and from the top of a cypress tree a very
distant view of the whole country was obtained: the opening through
which the river apparently runs bore S. 75� W.; the country to the
south and south-west extremely low. A range of hills, lying nearly
east and west, bounded the level tract on the other side of the
river; these hills and two or three detached hammocks excepted,
there was nothing to break the uniformity of the scene.</p>
<p>The country was in general poor, with partial tracts of better
ground; the hills were slaty, and covered as well as the levels
with small eucalypti, cypresses, and casuarinas. About a mile from
this place we fell in with a small tribe of natives, consisting of
eight men; their women we did not see. They did not appear any way
alarmed at the sight of us, but came boldly up: they were covered
with cloaks made of opossum skins; their faces daubed with a red
and yellow pigment, with neatly worked nets bound round their hair:
the front tooth in the upper row was wanting in them all: they were
unarmed, having nothing with them but their stone hatchets. It
appeared from their conduct that they had either seen or heard of
white people before, and were anxious to depart, accompanying the
motion of going with a wave of their hand.</p>
<p>About three miles from our last night's halting-place we had to
cross a small creek, the banks of which were so steep that we were
obliged to unload the horses. I rode up the creek about three
quarters of a mile, and came upon those extensive plains
before-mentioned; the soil of this level appears a good loamy clay,
but in some places very wet: it was far too extensive to permit us
to traverse much of it; we saw sufficient to judge that the whole
surface was similar to that we examined; it was covered with a
great variety of new plants, and its margin encircled by a new
species of acacia, which received the specific name of
<i>pendula</i>, from its resembling in habit the weeping willow.
Low hills to the north bounded this plain, whilst a slip of barren
land, covered with small trees and shrubs, lay between it and the
river.</p>
<p>It appeared to me that the whole of these flats are occasionally
overflowed by the river, the water of which is forced up the creek
before-mentioned, and which again acts as a drain on the fall of
the water.</p>
<p>At four o'clock we halted for the evening, after a fatiguing
day's journey; the boats were obliged to cut their passage three or
four times, and the whole navigation was difficult and dangerous:
the current ran with much rapidity, and the channel seemed rather
to contract than widen. We were obliged to stop on a very barren
desolate spot, with little grass for the horses; but further on the
country appeared even worse. The south bank of the river (as far as
I could judge) is precisely similar to that which we are travelling
down. The clear levels examined to-day were named the Solway Flats.
Many fish were caught here, one of which weighed upwards of thirty
pounds.</p>
<p>May 6.�Proceeded down the river. It is impossible to fancy
a worse country than the one we were now travelling over,
intersected by swamps and small lagoons in every direction; the
soil a poor clay, and covered with stunted useless timber. It was
excessively fatiguing to the horses which travelled along the banks
of the river, as the rubus and anthistiria were so thickly
intermingled, that they could scarcely force a passage. After
proceeding about eight miles, a bold rocky mount terminated on the
river, and broke the sameness which had so long wearied us: we
ascended this hill, which I named Mount Amyot, and from the summit
had one of the most extensive views that can be imagined. On the
opposite side of the river was another hill precisely similar to
Mount Amyot, leaving a passage between them for the river, and the
immense tract of level country to the eastward; this hill was named
Mount Stuart. Vast plains clear of timber lay on the south side of
the river, and which, from our having travelled on a level with
them, it was impossible for us to distinguish before. These plains
I named Hamilton's Plains, and they were bounded by hills of
considerable elevation to the southward; whilst the whole level
country thus bounded was honoured with the designation of Princess
Charlotte's Crescent.</p>
<p>To the west of Mount Amyot the view was equally extensive, being
bounded only by the horizon; some high detached hills, rising like
islands from the ocean, broke, in some measure, the sameness of the
prospect. I estimated that in the west north-west I could see at
least forty miles, and in the south south-west as far; the view in
other points being slightly interrupted by low ranges of hills,
rising occasionally to points of considerable elevation: none of
those elevated spots was nearer than twenty-five or thirty miles,
and considerable spaces of clear ground could, by the assistance of
the telescope, be distinguished, interspersed amidst the ocean of
trees whence those hills arise: a long broken mountain, bearing W.
32�. N., was named Mount Melville; one W. 24. N. Mount Cunningham;
and another, bearing S. 70. W. Mount Maude. Smoke, arising from the
fires of the wandering inhabitants of these desolate regions was
seen in several quarters. At four o'clock we stopped for the
evening, about three miles west of Mount Amyot.</p>
<p>I have reason to believe that the whole of the tract named
Princess Charlotte's Crescent is at times drowned by the
overflowing of the river; the marks of flood were observed in every
direction, and the waters in the marshes and lagoons were all
traced as being derived from the river. During a course of upwards
of seventy miles not a single running stream emptied itself into
the river on either side; and I am forced to conclude that in
common seasons this whole tract is extremely badly watered, and
that it derives its principal if not only supply from the river
within the bounding ranges Of Princess Charlotte's Crescent. There
are doubtless many small eminences which might afford a retreat
from the inundations, but those which were observed by us were too
trifling and distant from each other to stand out distinct from the
vast level surface which the crescent presents to the view. The
soil of the country we passed over was a poor and cold clay; but
there are many rich levels which, could they be drained and
defended from the inundations of the river, would amply repay the
cultivation. These flats are certainly not adapted for cattle; the
grass is too swampy, and the bushes, swamps, and lagoons, are too
thickly intermingled with the better portions to render it either a
safe or desirable grazing country. The timber is universally bad
and small; a few large misshapen gum trees on the immediate banks
of the river may be considered as exceptions. If however the
country itself is poor, the river is rich in the most excellent
fish, procurable in the utmost abundance. One man in less than an
hour caught eighteen large fish, one of which was a curiosity from
its immense size, and the beauty of its colours. In shape and
general form it most resembled a cod, but was speckled over with
brown, blue, and yellow spots, like a leopard's skin; its gills and
belly a clear white, the tail and fins a dark brown. It weighed
entire seventy pounds, and without the entrails sixty-six pounds:
it is somewhat singular that in none of these fish is any thing
found in the stomach, except occasionally a shrimp or two. The
dimensions of this fish were as follow:</p>
<pre>                                            Feet. Inches.

Length from the nose to the tail              3     5
Circumference round the shoulders             2     6
Fin to fin over the back                      1     5
Circumference near the anus                   1     9
Breadth of the tail                           1     1�
Circumference of the mouth opened             1     6
Depth of the swallow                          1 foot.
</pre>
<p>Most of the other fish taken this evening weighed from fifteen
to thirty pounds each, and were of the same kind as the above.</p>
<p>May 7.�A fine clear frosty morning. The horses having been
much fatigued by the two last days' journey, I determined to halt
to-day instead of Saturday, as the grass was good, which is more
than could be said of it for some days past. Observed the latitude
to be 33. 22. 59. S.</p>
<p>May 8.�Proceeded down the river. Our general course was
westerly, and the country, though equally level with any we had
passed, improved in the quality of the soil, which, during the
greater part of to-day's route, was a good vegetable mould, the
land thickly covered with small acacia and dwarf trees. On the
south side of the river it was apparently the same; and the whole
we passed over bore evident marks of being subject to
inundations.</p>
<p>The banks of the river were, I think, much lower, not exceeding
fifteen or twenty feet high, and they were rather clearer of timber
than before. The casuarina, which used to line the banks, was now
seldom seen, the acacia pendula seeming to take its place. We
stopped for the night on a plain of good land, flooded, but clear
of timber: large flocks of emus were feeding on it, and we were
fortunate enough to kill a very large one after a fine chase. At
three o'clock, the boats not having arrived, I sent a man back to
look for them; at eight he returned, having found them about six
miles up the river, unable to proceed until morning, having met
with continual interruptions from fallen trees. These impediments
in the navigation of the river obstruct our progress very
materially, and its windings continue so great and frequent, that
the distance travelled by land is nearly trebled by water.</p>
<p>May 9.�The boats not having arrived at ten o'clock, Mr.
Evans proceeded with the <i>b�t</i> horses another stage down the
river. Mr. Cunningham and I waited to bring up the boats, which
shortly afterwards came in sight. We proceeded to join the horses,
which we did about five o'clock, the boats having gone in that time
nearly thirty-six miles, although the distance from the last
station did not exceed seven in a direct line.</p>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="image-7-1" id="image-7-1"></a><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0005.jpg"></p>
<p class="caption">Field Plains from Mount Aymot</p>
<p>The country we had passed through during this day's route was
extremely low, consisting of extensive plains divided by lines of
small trees: the banks of the river, and the deep bights formed by
the irregularity of its course, were covered with acacia bushes and
dwarf trees. The river, at the spot where we stopped, wound along
the edge of an extensive low plain, being at least six miles long
and three or four broad; these I called Field's Plains, after the
judge of the supreme court of this territory; they are the same
which we saw from the top of Mount Amyot. The soil of these plains
is a light clayey loam, very wet in many places; they were fringed
round with that beautiful tree, the acacia pendula, which here
seems to perform the part of the willow in Europe; the cypresses
were also more frequent, and the banks of the river much lower than
even those we passed yesterday. I cannot help thinking that the
whole of this extensive region has been at some time or other under
water, and that the present river is the drain by which the waters
have been conveyed to lower grounds. It is evident that even now
the plains (on those parts clear of trees) are frequently under
water, and that at very high floods the wooded lands are so too,
for it is almost impossible to distinguish any difference in their
elevation; but the wooded lands, from being actually higher, seem
to have given time for the growth of the diminutive timber with
which they are covered, whereas the lower plains are too frequently
covered to give time for such growth.</p>
<p>May 10.�The horses having strayed in the night, and it
being nearly noon before they were found, I determined to make this
a halting day.</p>
<p>These plains are much more extensive than I supposed yesterday,
and many new plants were found on them. The river rose upwards of a
foot during the night, and still continues to rise; a circumstance
which appears very singular to me, there having been no rains of
any magnitude for the last five weeks, and none at all for the last
ten days. We are also certain that no waters fall into it or join
it easterly for nearly one hundred and fifty miles. This rise must
therefore be occasioned by heavy rains in the mountains, whence the
river derives its source; but it is not the less singular, that
during its whole course, as far as it is hitherto known, it does
not receive a single tributary stream. Observed the latitude 33.
16. 33. S.</p>
<p>May 11.�The river rose about four feet during the night,
and still continues to rise. Set forward on our journey down the
river. About four miles and a half from this morning's station. the
river began to wash the immediate edge of the plain, and so
continued to do all along. My astonishment was extreme at finding
the banks of the river not more than six feet from the water: it at
once confirmed my supposition that the whole of this extensive
country is frequently inundated; the river was here about thirty
yards broad. Mount Cunningham was at this time distant about two
miles, and Mount Melville four miles; the plains winding
immediately under the base of each. At twelve o'clock ascended the
south end of Mount Cunningham, a small branch of the river running
close under it. From this elevation our view was very extensive in
every direction, particularly in the west quarter. The whole
country in that direction was so low, that it might not improperly
be termed a swamp, the spaces which were bare of trees being more
constantly under water than those where they grew. A remarkable
peaked hill bearing W. 27�. N. was named Hurd's Peak,<sup>[*]</sup>
and a lofty hummock S. 83�. W, Mount Meyrick: these were the only
elevations of any consequence in the western direction. To the
north, low ranges of rocky hills bounded the swamps, which on the
south had a similar boundary, except that occasionally a bolder
rocky projection would obtrude itself on the flat.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* After Captain Hurd, Hydrographer to the
Admiralty.]</p>
<p>On descending from the hill, we proceeded to the point where the
north-west arm is separated from the main branch, but apparently to
join it in water, bearing from Mount Cunningham W. 40. N.: on
arriving there we found the boats and horses. The crew of the
former reported, that an equally considerable branch of the river,
with that down which they had come, had turned off to the
south-west, about two miles below the place where we stopped last
night. After directing the horses and baggage to be got over the
north-west arm, I returned to examine the branch passed by the
boats, and found it at least as considerable as that which we were
pursuing. I am in hopes that when again joined, the width and depth
of the river will be considerably increased. At half past four
returned to the tents on the north-west arm. The river (from
whatever cause) was still rising, and no part of the banks was more
than four feet above the level of the water. I consider that the
river may have from eight to ten feet more water in it than usual:
its present average depth is about eighteen feet.</p>
<p>The soil of these extensive plains, designated Field's Plains,
is for the most part extremely rich, as indeed might be expected,
from the deposition of the quantities of vegetable matter that must
take place in periods of flood. The plains are in some places even
lower than the ground forming the immediate bank of the river, very
soft, and difficult for loaded horses to pass over. If we had been
so unfortunate as to have had a rainy season, it would have been
utterly impossible to have come thus far by land. The ranges of
hills are unconnected, and are rocky and barren; the swamps for the
most part surrounding them. Mount Cunningham is a lofty rocky hill,
about a mile and a half long, composed of granite rock, but
entirely surrounded by low swampy ground.</p>
<p>Here we were so unfortunate as to find the barometer broken, the
horse which carried the instruments having thrown his load in
passing the swamps: every precaution had been taken in the packing
to prevent such an accident, which was the more to be regretted, as
it interrupted a chain of observations by which I hoped to
ascertain the height of the country with tolerable accuracy. The
last observations that were made, reduced to this place, gave us an
elevation of not more than five hundred feet above the sea, or
about a hundred feet lower than the country at the depot.</p>
<p>Since the river has been swollen, the fish have eluded us, none
having been caught since yesterday morning. Two black swans were
however shot on the river. Our present situation is by no means
enviable: in the first place, there is every chance that the river
may be lost in a multitude of branches, among those marshy flats,
and farther navigation thus rendered impossible; and in the second,
a rise of four feet in the river would sweep us all away, since we
have not the smallest eminence to retreat to. Should the river lead
through to the westward, and be afterwards joined by the branches
we have passed, it may become something more interesting and
encouraging: a wet or even a partially rainy season will, in my
judgment, preclude us from returning by our present route, more
especially if these low countries continue for any distance.</p>
<p>I am by no means surprised at the paucity of natives that have
been seen: it would be quite impossible in wet seasons to inhabit
these marshes, and equally so for them to retreat in times of
flood. Their fires are universally observed near the higher
grounds, and no traces of any thing like a permanent camp has
hitherto been seen; but in many places on the banks quantities of
pearl muscle-shells were found near the remains of fires. That
large species of bittern, known on the east-coast by the local name
of Native Companions, I believe from the circumstance of their
being always seen in pairs, was observed, on the flats, of very
large size, exceeding six feet in height: they were so shy that we
were unable to shoot any.</p>
<p>May 12.�The fine weather still continues to favour us. The
river rose in the course of the night upwards of a foot. It is a
probable supposition that the natives, warned by experience of
these dangerous flats, rather choose to seek a more precarious, but
more safe subsistence in the mountainous and rocky ridges which are
occasionally to be met with. The river and lagoons abound with fish
and fowl, and it is scarcely reasonable to suppose that the natives
would not avail themselves of such store of food, if the danger of
procuring it did not counterbalance the advantages they might
otherwise derive from such abundance.</p>
<p>About three quarters of a mile farther westward we had to cross
another small arm of the river, running to the northward, which
although now full, is, I should think, dry when the river is at its
usual level. It is probable that this and the one which we first
crossed join each other a few miles farther to the westward, and
then both united fall into the stream which gave them existence. We
had scarcely proceeded a mile from the last branch, before it
became evident that it would be impossible to advance farther in
the direction in which we were travelling. The stream here
overflowed both banks, and its course was lost among marshes: its
channel not being distinguishable from the surrounding waters.</p>
<p>Observing an eminence about half a mile from the south side, we
crossed over the horses and baggage at a Place where the water was
level with the banks, and which when within its usual channel did
not exceed thirty or forty feet in width, its depth even now being
only twelve feet.</p>
<p>We ascended the hill, and had the mortification to perceive the
termination of our research, at least down this branch of the
river: the whole country from the west north-west round to north
was either a complete marsh or lay under water, and this for a
distance of twenty-five or thirty miles, in those directions; to
the south and south-west the country appeared more elevated, but
low marshy grounds lay between us and it, which rendered it
impossible for us to proceed thither from our present situation. I
therefore determined to return back to the place where the two
branches of the principal river separated, and follow the
south-west branch as far as it should be navigable; our fears were
however stronger than our hopes, lest it would end in a similar
manner to the one we had already traced, until it became no longer
navigable for boats.</p>
<p>In pursuance of this intention we descended the hill, which was
named Farewell Hill, from its being the termination of our journey
in a north-west direction at least for the present, and proceeded
up the south bank of the stream. We were able to reach only a short
distance from the spot where we stopped last night, having been
obliged to unload the horses no less than four times in the course
of the day, added to which, the travelling loaded through those
dreadful marshes had completely exhausted them: my own horse, in
searching for a better track, was nearly lost, and it consumed four
hours to advance scarcely half a mile.</p>
<p>My disappointment at the interruption of our labours in this
quarter was extreme, and what was worse, no flattering prospect
appeared of our succeeding better in the examination of the
south-west branch. I was however determined to see the present end
of the river in all its branches, before I should finally quit it,
in furtherance of the other objects of the expedition.</p>
<p>May 13.�Returned to the point whence the river separates
into two branches; intending first to descend the south-west branch
for some distance before the boats and baggage should move down,
being unwilling the horses should undergo an useless fatigue in
traversing such marshy ground, unless the branch should prove of
sufficient magnitude to take us a considerable distance; conceiving
it an object of the first importance that the horses should start
fresh, if I should find it necessary to quit the river at this
point of the coast.</p>
<p>May 14.�This branch of the river has fallen about a foot.
Having directed the casks in the boats to be prepared for slinging
on the horses, and the tools and arms to be put in order
preparatory to leaving the river, I proceeded to examine the
branch. After going about four miles down, it took a similar
direction (north-westerly) to that which we had previously traced.
The banks on both sides were a mere marsh, and about six miles
down, a small arm from it supplied the marshes between this and the
north-west branch. The fall of the country from the south-east to
the north-west was very remarkable; the water in the branch was
here nearly level with the banks, and was narrowed to a width of
not more than twenty feet. Finding that it would be equally as
impracticable to follow this branch as the other, I returned and
commenced preparations for setting out for the coast, which I
purpose not to do until Sunday, in order that the horses may be
refreshed, as they will at first be most heavily laden.</p>
<p>My present intention is to take a south-west direction for Cape
Northumberland, since should any river be formed from those
marshes, which is extremely probable, and fall into the sea between
Spencer's Gulf and Cape Otway, this course will intersect it, and
no river or stream can arise from these swamps without being
discovered. The body of water now running in both the principal
branches is very considerable, fully sufficient to have constituted
a river of magnitude, if it had constantly maintained such a supply
of water, and had not become separated into branches, and lost
among the immense marshes of this desolate and barren country,
which seems here to form a vast concavity to receive them. It is
impossible to arrive at any certain opinion as to what finally
becomes of these waters, but I think it probable, from the
appearance of the country, and its being nearly on a level with the
sea, that they are partly absorbed by the soil, and the remainder
lost by evaporation.</p>
<p>May 15.�Mr. Cunningham made an excursion under Mount
Melville, and found the country in that direction as full of
stagnant water as to the north-west. Some tracts rather more raised
above the usual level were barren, and covered with acacia scrubs.
The natives had been recently under Mount Melville, perhaps to the
number of a dozen: abundance of large pearl muscle-shells was found
about their deserted fireplaces, but these shells had been
apparently some months out of water.</p>
<p>May 16.�Felled a tree of the acacia pendula, the wood
extremely hard and beautiful; a black resinous juice exuded from
the heart, which much resembled the black part of the lignum vitae.
Our observations placed this spot in latitude 33. 15. 34. S.;
longitude 147. 16. E. and the variation of the compass 7. 0. 8.
E.</p>
<p>May 17.�After reducing our luggage as much as possible, we
sent every thing down the branch about two miles, and landed on the
south shore; got every thing in readiness for proceeding on our
journey to-morrow; hauled up the boats on the south bank, and
secured them, together with such heavy articles as we could not
take with us. The provisions occupied our whole fourteen horses,
including my own, and each will still be very heavily laden.</p>
<p>May 18.�At nine o'clock we commenced our journey towards
the coast; at three stopped within four miles of Mount Maude, on a
dry creek, with occasional pools of very indifferent water. The
country through which we passed from the branch was for the first
three miles very low and wet, with large lagoons of water. During
the latter part of the journey the country was more elevated though
still level, the soil light and rotten, and overrun with the acacia
pendula. The horses being very heavily laden fell repeatedly during
the early part of the day. Our course was nearly south-west, and we
performed about ten miles.</p>
<p>May 19.�At two miles passed over a low rocky range
connected with Mount Maude: the remainder of our day's journey
(nearly twelve miles) lay chiefly through a barren level country,
the ground rather studded than covered with grass, and that only in
patches, by far the greater part producing no grass at all. The
trees were chiefly cypresses, a new species of staculia, together
with scrubs of the acacia pendula. The soil a light red sand, the
lower levels being stronger and more clayey. We did not meet with
any water, and were obliged to stop in the middle of an acacia
brush, the horses being too much fatigued to proceed farther, and
as the country had been lately burnt, the grass was a little better
than usual. At four o'clock sent two men to search for water, and
in about half an hour they returned, having found several small
ponds of good water about three quarters of a mile to the
south-west: the swamp appeared to extend to the northward a
considerable distance. Several native huts were on the edge of one
of the ponds, but they had not been recently inhabited.</p>
<p>May 20.�Proceeded forward south-west eleven miles through
a most barren desolate country, the soil a light red sand,
literally parched up with drought, there being no appearance of
rain having fallen for several months. The country through which we
passed being a perfect plain overrun with acacia scrubs, we could
not see in any direction above a quarter of a mile; I therefore
halted at two o'clock on purpose to gain time to find water before
sunset, as we had seen no other signs of any on our route than a
few dry pits. It is impossible to imagine a more desolate region;
and the uncertainty we are in, whilst traversing it, of finding
water, adds to the melancholy feelings which the silence and
solitude of such wastes is calculated to inspire.</p>
<p>The search for water was unsuccessful, about three gallons of
muddy liquid being all that could be procured: our horses and dogs,
I am afraid, were the greatest sufferers.</p>
<p>May 21.�The water was so extremely bad that, pressed as we
were by thirst, we could scarcely even by twice boiling it render
it drinkable. After travelling ten or eleven miles through a
country equally barren and destitute with that of yesterday,
without meeting with the least appearance of water, and the horses
being completely worn out, I determined to halt on a small patch of
burnt grass; two of the horses had fallen several times under their
loads, and nothing but the evenness of the road enabled us to reach
thus far. The same level plain extended on all sides, and our view
was confined to the scrubby brush around us. A small hollow lying
across our track, I sent a man on horseback to trace it, in hopes
it might lead to water: he returned about four o'clock with the
joyful news that he had found water in a large swamp about five
miles to the north-west: he also saw a native, who however ran too
swiftly to allow him to come up with him. This was the first living
creature of any kind we had seen since we quitted the river. Both
the kangaroo and emu seem to have deserted these plains for other
parts of the country better watered, and affording them more food.
The horses being utterly unable to proceed without rest, I
determined to remain here to-morrow to refresh them.</p>
<p>May 22.�The nights cold and frosty, the days warm and
clear: I think it is very evident that the altitude of the country
declines in a remarkable manner to the north-west; from the
south-east to the south-west it appears nearly of the same
elevation; and in travelling we appear to be going along an
inclined plane, the lowest edges being from west to north. I went
about five miles to the north-west to the place whence the water
was procured; the country poor, and as barren as can well be
imagined; the soil a light red sand, acacia scrubs, small
box-trees, and a few miserable cypresses.</p>
<p>May 23.�Our route lay through a country equally bad, if
not worse, than any which we had passed the preceding days: in some
places it was difficult for the horses to force a passage through
the brush; occasionally low stony ridges intervened, which, when
viewed from higher eminences, were not to be detected from the
plain out of which they rose. The soil was alternately a sterile
sand and a hardened clay, without grass of any description: the
country appeared to form the bottom of a dry morass, and I am
convinced if the weather had not been dry for a considerable time,
travelling would have been impossible. After proceeding ten miles
we were obliged to stop, the horses being unable to go further. We
had seen no signs of water during our route, but stopping at a
stony water-course we were in hopes of finding a sufficiency to
supply our wants, and on a hill at the end of it, about a quarter
of a mile to the westward, water was found.</p>
<p>May 24.�A day of rest and preparation. The country seems
to rise hereabouts and to be more broken, the ridges stony: the
dwarf timber and brush very thick. In searching for the horses this
morning several kangaroos and emus were seen, also the huts of a
tribe of natives recently inhabited.</p>
<p>May 25.�The horses much refreshed, except one which is
unable to carry any thing; his load was therefore obliged to be
distributed among the rest, already too heavily laden. At nine
o'clock set forward on our journey. At two we arrived at the base
of a hill of considerable magnitude, terminating westward in an
abrupt perpendicular rock from two hundred and fifty to three
hundred feet high. The country we passed over was of the most
miserable description; the last eight miles without a blade of
grass. The acacia brushes grow generally on a hard and clayey soil
evidently frequently covered with water, and I consider that these
plains or brushes are swamps or morasses in wet weather, since they
must receive all the water from the low ranges with which they are
generally circumscribed. It is a remarkable feature in the hills of
this country that their terminations are generally perpendicular
westward, rising from the lower grounds round from south-west to
north-west very gradually; their terminating rocky bluffs are
usually two or three hundred feet high. I include in these
observations not only the single detached hills, but the points of
the ranges. This hill was named Mount Aiton. The country having
been recently burnt, some good grass was found for the horses a
little to the south-west. We therefore stopped for the night, and
ascended the face of the mount for the purpose of looking around: a
very large brown speckled snake was killed about half way up,
which, in the absence of fresh provisions, was afterwards eaten by
some of the party. On arriving at the summit we had an extensive
prospect in every direction; the country was most generally level,
but rose occasionally into gentle eminences bounded by distant low
ranges from the south south-west to the north-west. The most
considerable of these ranges were named <i>Peel's Range</i>, and
<i>Goulburn's Range</i>: a very lofty hill, distant at least
seventy miles, was named <i>Mount Granard</i>. Interspersed through
the country, bounded by those ranges, were several large tracts
entirely devoid of wood; these are however, I fear, only a
repetition of the acacia plains of which we had lately been but too
abundantly favoured. From south-west by south round to north-east
were some low broken hills, with some to the east-south-east of
greater magnitude; but their distance was so great as to appear but
faintly in the horizon. Upon the whole the country appeared more
open and somewhat better, particularly in the immediate vicinity of
our station to the south-west. There were not the smallest signs of
any stream, neither is-ere there any fires in the direction we had
to take. Three or four fires were seen in the north-west, and
recent traces of the natives were discovered near our tents. The
inhabitants of these wilds must be very few, and I think it
impossible for more than a family to subsist together; a greater
number would only starve each other: indeed their deserted fires
and camps which we occasionally saw, never appeared to have been
occupied by more than six or eight persons. The scarcity of food
must also prevent the raising of many children, from the absolute
impossibility of supporting them until of an age to provide for
themselves. We have seen so few animals, either kangaroo or emu,
and the country appears so little capable of maintaining these
animals, that the means of the natives in procuring food must be
precarious indeed. We found just a sufficiency of water to answer
our purpose in a drain from the Mount; our dogs are, however, in a
wretched condition for want of food.</p>
<p>May 26.�The horses having strayed in the night, every man
was employed in searching for them. In passing through those barren
brushes yesterday, a great quantity of small iron-stones was picked
up, from the size of a large pea to a hen's-egg, all nearly round,
being washed into heaps by the waters, which in time of rain sweep
over those flats. The front of Mount Aiton was found to decline
about fifteen degrees from the perpendicular; the rocks were
composed of a hard sandy free-stone. It was eight o'clock in the
evening before any of the people returned, and then only two men
came back with two horses, being all they were able to find: the
other three men are still absent, but they had found the track of
the other horses before these men left them. The two horses were
discovered in the midst of a thick brush, entangled among creeping
plants and unable to get further: they must have strayed in search
of water, the water at this place not being sufficient for them
all. The animals were all spencilled, but such is the scarcity of
both water and grass, that they will wander in search of each.</p>
<p>The natives have been reconnoitring us: we have several times
heard them, but have been unable to see them. At sunset their fires
were seen about two miles to the south-west.</p>
<p>May 27.�At day-light, despatched the other two men and
horses to the assistance of the rest, who remained out all
night.</p>
<p>A native was seen about half a mile from our fires: the dogs
attacked him, and when called off, he ran away shouting most
lustily; he was a very stout man, at least six feet high, entirely
naked, with a long bushy beard: he had no arms of any kind. At two
o'clock, two of the men who had been out all night returned, after
an unsuccessful search, leaving three more out to pursue it in
every possible direction. Water is evidently the reason of their
straying, as several patches of burnt grass have been passed by
them, and they would naturally return to the place where they last
found it, if they could find none nearer. At sunset the men
returned with nine of the horses, five being still missing: they
were found ten miles on the road back, and near the place where
they fed on the 24th.</p>
<p>May 28.�At daylight despatched four men on horseback to
resume the search for the missing horses, taking with them two
days' provisions.</p>
<p>May 29.�At four o'clock in the afternoon the men returned,
still unsuccessful.</p>
<p>May 30.�At seven o'clock I proceeded to the north-east
with two men, whilst Mr. Evans went to the north-west. At ten I was
fortunate enough to fall in with the horses about eight miles from
our camp; returned with them, and prepared every thing for setting
forward to-morrow morning. In one of the brushes an emu's nest was
found, containing ten eggs; our dogs also killed two small birds.
Mr. Evans returned about three o'clock, having seen nothing
remarkable: the country was very thick and brushy, and he was much
impeded by creeping vines.</p>
<p>Mr. Cunningham here planted the seeds of quinces, and the stones
of peach and apricot trees.</p>
<p>May 31.�Fine weather as usual, and at nine o'clock we set
off with renewed hopes and spirits. Our first nine miles afforded
excellent travelling through an open country of very indifferent
soil. The trees thin and chiefly cypress, with occasionally a large
sterculia, but no water whatever: at the ninth mile we entered a
very thick eucalyptus brush, overrun with creepers and prickly
acacia bushes. We continued forcing our way through this desert
until sunset, when, finding no hopes of getting through it before
dark, we halted in the midst of it, having travelled in the whole
nearly twenty miles, and for the last mile been obliged to cut our
way with our tomahawks.</p>
<p>Both men and horses were quite knocked up, and our embarrassment
was heightened by the want of water for ourselves and them, as this
desert did not hold out the slightest hope of finding any. No
herbage of any kind grew on this abandoned plain, being a fine red
sand, which almost blinded us with its dust. It was with some
little hesitation that we affixed a name to this brush; but at
length nothing occurred to us more expressive of its aspect than
<i>euryalean</i>. This was the first night which we had passed
absolutely without water.</p>
<p>June 1.�A cold frosty morning. The weather during the
might changed from very mild and pleasant to extreme cold; the
thermometer varying 24. At daylight we loaded the horses and set
forward to get out of this scrub, and endeavour to procure water
and grass for the horses, which we were obliged to tie to bushes,
to prevent them from straying. After going about two miles farther
we cleared the thickest of it: but the country was only more open,
and not in any degree more fertile. We proceeded on towards the
south-east end of Peel's range until twelve o'clock, when, having
gone nearly eleven miles, the horses were unable to proceed farther
with their loads. There was nothing left for us but to unload them,
and separate in every direction in search of that most precious of
elements, without tasting a drop of which both men and horses had
now existed nearly thirty-six hours.</p>
<p>Water was found in three holes in the side of Peel's range
sufficient for all our necessities, and a most grateful relief it
proved, particularly to the poor horses, who were nearly famished
for the want of it: one of the best of our animals was so exhausted
that it was with some difficulty he could be taken to the water. I
wish the grass had proved equally good, but there is nothing for
them but dead wire-grass (<i>ira</i>). We saw no game, with the
exception of three or four kangaroo rats: many beautiful small
parrots were observed; and, barren as the scrub appeared to us, yet
our botanists reaped an excellent harvest here; nothing being more
true than that the most beautiful plants and shrubs flourish best
where no grass or other herbage will grow.</p>
<p>June 2.�Fine and clear as usual, the nights cold. One of
our best horses, mentioned yesterday as having fallen repeatedly
under his load, was this morning extremely ill, having entirely
lost the use of his hind quarters. Finding that he was quite unable
to accompany us, and in fact unfit to do any more work, it was with
extreme reluctance that I caused him to be shot, since it would
have been no mercy to suffer him to linger in his present miserable
condition. Observations were taken to ascertain our situation, and
they placed us lat. 34. 8. 8. S., long. 146.03. E., the variation
of the compass being 7. 18. E.</p>
<p>The hills to the southward of us are curiously composed of
pudding-stone in very large masses, the lower stratum being a
coarse granite intermingled with pieces of quartz, and a variety of
other stones.</p>
<p>June 3.�Set forward on our route, passing over a rugged,
barren, and rocky country for about four miles and a half, when we
ascended a hill upon our right which promised a view in all
directions. To the southward, south-west, and even west, the
country was a perfect plain, interspersed with more of those
dreadful scrubs which we had passed through. In coming from Mount
Aiton to the south-east were some low ranges, with a level barren
country between us and them; this hill was named Mount Caley, and
the termination of Peel's range to the southward, a lofty rocky
hill, was called Mount Brogden. On descending the hill, I had the
mortification to find that one of the horses, who had hitherto
performed well, now sunk under his load, and was unable to proceed
farther: in short, all of them appeared so debilitated, that the
utmost we could promise ourselves was their proceeding three or
four miles farther in search of grass and water. Directing the man
to stay by his load, we proceeded towards some burnt grass which
had been seen from Mount Caley, and after going about four miles
farther we stopped upon it. As the ultimate success of the
expedition so entirely depended upon the capability of the horses
to perform the journey, it was judged advisable that they should
have two or three days rest before we attempted to penetrate
farther; and as we were now on a spot that at least afforded them a
mouthful of fresh wire-grass, I determined, if water should be
found, to remain here until Friday morning.</p>
<p>The country is so extremely impracticable, and so utterly
destitute of the means of affording subsistence to either man or
beast; water is so precarious, and when found is only the contents
of small muddy holes, which under different circumstances would be
rejected equally by horses and by men, that I much fear we shall
not be able to proceed much further; but my mind is made up to
persevere until the last horse fails us, keeping that course which,
although inclining to the westward, will bring us out upon the
coast upon a nearer line than Cape Northumberland, which I intended
to steer for when we quitted the Lachlan River.</p>
<p>Sent back assistance to the man and horse left under Mount
Caley, and at eight o'clock they returned.</p>
<p>After searching in every direction, no water was found, except
in a small hole evidently dug by the natives under Mount Brogden,
and containing scarcely sufficient for the people.</p>
<p>June 4.�Weather as usual fine and clear, which is the
greatest comfort we enjoy in these deserts, abandoned as they seem
to be by every living creature capable of getting out of them. I
was obliged to send the horses back to our former halting-place for
water, a distance of near eight miles: this is terrible for the
horses, who are in general extremely reduced; but two in particular
cannot, I think, endure this miserable existence much longer.</p>
<p>At five o'clock, two men, whom I had sent to explore the country
to the south-west and see if any water could be found, returned,
after proceeding six or seven miles: they found it impossible to go
any farther in that direction or even south, from the thick brushes
that intersected their course on every side; and no water (nor in
fact the least sign of any) was discovered either by them, or by
those who were sent in search of it nearer to our little camp.</p>
<p>No other trace of inhabitants (besides the well from which we
derive our supply of water) has hitherto been seen: no game of any
kind, nor grass to support any, have resulted from the various
routes and observations of the different persons who were employed
for that purpose during the day. I almost despair of finding any,
for the country being perfectly level (some few elevated stations
excepted), and the soil a deep loose red sand, the rain which falls
must be immediately absorbed, and indeed it is quite impossible
that water should remain on the surface of the land which we have
travelled over since we have left the river.</p>
<p>At the period we quitted the river I considered our height above
the level of the sea to be about five hundred feet, an elevation
too trifling to afford a hope that any streams could rise in these
regions and flow thence into the sea. In traversing these flats,
the declivity, when it could be observed, was always towards the
west and north-west, obliging me to believe that either the country
continued a desert of sand as at present, or that its westerly
inclination would cause all that part of it to consist of marshes
and swamps. Since quitting the river we have not enjoyed what under
any other circumstances would be called drinkable water; what was
found being merely the contents of shallow mud holes, in the bottom
of acacia swamps, over which the dryness of the season alone
enabled us to travel. We have uniformly been obliged to strain our
water before we drank it, and its taste, from the decayed vegetable
matter it contained, was sour and unpleasant.</p>
<p>June 5.�A clear cold frosty morning: sent the horses to
the watering place: if it be any way possible to get them on, it is
my intention to proceed to-morrow morning, as it is almost as much
labour to them to go for water as it would be to perform a short
day's journey.</p>
<p>From every thing I can see of the country to the south-west, it
appears, upon the most mature deliberation, highly imprudent to
persevere longer in that direction, as the consequences to the
horses of want of water and grass might be most serious; and we are
well assured that within forty miles on that point the country is
the same as before passed over. In adopting a north-westerly
course, it is my intention to be entirely guided by the possibility
of procuring subsistence for the horses, that being the main point
on which all our ulterior proceedings must hinge. It is however to
be expected that as the country is certainly lower to the west and
north-west than from south-east to south-west, there is a greater
probability of finding water in this latter direction. In our
present perplexing situation, however, it is impossible to lay down
any fixed plan, as (be it what it may) circumstances after all must
guide us. Our horses are unable to go more than eight or ten miles
a day, but even then they must be assured of finding food, of
which, in these deserts, the chances are against the existence.</p>
<p>Yesterday, being the King's birthday, Mr. Cunningham planted
under Mount Brogden acorns, peach and apricot-stones, and
quince-seeds, with the hope rather than the expectation that they
would grow and serve to commemorate the day and situation, should
these desolate plains be ever again visited by civilized man, of
which, however, I think there is very little probability.</p>
<p>Our observation placed the situation of the tent in lat. 34. 13.
33. S., long. 146. E.; the variation of the compass 8. 08. E.</p>
<p>June 6.�A mild pleasant morning: set forward on our
journey to the westward and north-west, in hopes of finding a
better country: at two o'clock halted about two miles from Peel's
range, after going about eight miles through a very thick cypress
scrub; the country equally bad as on any of the foregoing days. We
saw no signs of water during our route: the whole country seems
burnt up with long continued drought; no traces of natives, or any
game seen.</p>
<p>After two hours' search a small hole of water was found at the
foot of the range, sufficient for the horses, and in a hole in the
rocks a little clearer was procured for ourselves.</p>
<p>June 7.�Set forward to the north-west, the horses being a
little fresher than for some days past. Halted at four o'clock,
having gone ten miles through a country which, for barrenness and
desolation, can I think have no equal; it was a continued scrub,
and where there was timber it chiefly consisted of small cypress:
we saw no water as usual, but stopped on some burnt grass near the
base of a low range of stony hills west of Peel's range, from which
we are distant eight or ten miles. These ranges abound with native
dogs; their howlings are incessant, day as well as night: as we saw
no game, their principal prey must be rats, which have almost
undermined this loose sandy country.</p>
<p>As we had brought a small keg of water with us, we did not on
this occasion suffer absolute want: we hope that the instinct of
the horses would lead them to water in the course of the
night�but we were too sanguine.</p>
<p>Our spirits were not a little depressed by the desolation and
want that seemed to reign around us: the scene was never varied,
except from bad to worse. However, the scarcity of water and grass
for the horses are our greatest real privations, for the
temperature is mild and equable beyond what could be expected at
this season, and it is this circumstance alone that enables us to
proceed: the horses are too much reduced to endure rainy weather,
even if the loose soil of the country would permit us to travel
over it.</p>
<p>June 8.�During the night there was light rain. At daylight
sent out in search of water, but all our efforts proved
unsuccessful. Peel's range being the nearest high land, I
determined to search the base of it, in hopes of finding water,
since it was impossible that either men or horses could long endure
this almost constant privation of the first necessary of life. I
accordingly set off towards the range, but was prevented from
making it by impenetrable scrubs: we then returned to the range a
little to the west of the tent, whence we could see a considerable
distance to the west and north-west; it is impossible to imagine a
prospect more desolate. The whole country in these directions, as
far as the eye could reach, was one continued thicket of eucalyptus
scrub: it was physically impossible to proceed that way, and our
situation was too critical to admit of delay; it was therefore
resolved to return back to our last station on the 6th under Peel's
range, if for no other purpose than that of giving the horses
water. I felt that by attempting to proceed westerly I should
endanger the safety of every man composing the expedition, without
any practical good arising from such perseverance: it was therefore
deemed more prudent to keep along the base of Peel's range to its
termination, having some chance of finding water in its rocky
ravines, whilst there was none at all in attempting to keep the
level country. It was too late to pursue this resolution this
evening.</p>
<p>June 9.�During the night heavy rain. At eight o'clock set
off on our return to our halting-place of the 6th, the horses
having been now forty-eight hours without water. We had scarcely
proceeded a mile when it began to rain hard, and continued to do so
without intermission until we stopped at the place where water had
been previously found: it was by this time two o'clock, the horses
failed, and the people were in little better condition, not having
tasted any thing since the evening before. All our clothes were wet
through, a circumstance which added greatly to the unpleasantness
of our situation.</p>
<p>The true nature of the soil was fully developed by this day's
rain. Being in dry weather a loose light sand without any apparent
consistency, it was now discovered to have a small portion of loam
mixed with it, which, without having the tenacity of clay, is
sufficient to render it slimy and boggy: I am quite satisfied that
two days' rain will at any time render this country impassable. The
mortification and distress of mind I felt at being obliged to take
a retrograde direction was heightened by seeing the horses
struggling under loads far beyond their present powers, their
labour rendered still more trying by the miserable country they
were obliged to pass through.</p>
<p>June 10.�Light rain during the night, the morning fair and
pleasant: upon mature deliberation it was resolved to remain here
until the 13th, for the purpose of refreshing the horses. I also
determined to send a detachment on before us, to endeavour to find
an eligible station for us to stop at, that we might proceed with
more certainty.</p>
<p>Mr. Cunningham named those thick brushes of eucalyptus that
spread in every direction around us <i>eucalyptus dumosa</i>, or
the dwarf gum, as they never exceed twenty feet in height, and are
generally from twelve to fifteen, spreading out into a bushy circle
from their roots in such a manner that it is impossible to see
farther than from one bush to the other; and these are very often
united by a species of vine (cassytha), and the intermediate space
covered with prickly wire-grass, rendering a passage through them
equally painful and tedious</p>
<p>The low ranges of hills which we quitted yesterday morning we
named Disappointment Hills, from our not being able to penetrate
beyond them to the north-west or west, and also from our not
finding any water on them; our hopes being thus disappointed of
penetrating into the interior in the direction that I intended when
we quitted Mount Brogden.</p>
<p>June 11.�A party set forward to the northward to explore
our to-morrow's route, and to endeavour to find water at some
eligible station.</p>
<p>They returned about four o'clock, having proceeded eight or ten
miles. Small holes of water were found in almost every gully. They
saw several traces of the natives, but none recent: the dogs killed
several kangaroo-rats, and some new species of plants were
discovered.</p>
<p>June 12.�Fine and clear. At eight o'clock set forward on
our journey along the west side of Peel's range: we proceeded to
the north, inclining westerly for about ten miles; the travelling
for the horses very bad, the ground being extremely soft, the
description of the country the same. The trees resembled bushes
more than timber, being chiefly small cypresses, which is the
prevailing wood. The grass where we stopped was very bad, but the
quantity and quality of the water compensated for it. No recent
marks of the natives having visited this part of the range.</p>
<p>June 13.�Fine mild pleasant weather. Proceeded along the
foot of Peel's range for about ten miles; we then inclined
north-easterly, the range taking that direction, and after going
about four miles farther we stopped for the evening: the country
was wretchedly barren and scrubby, and to the north-west and west a
continued eucalyptus dumosa scrub, extending as far as the eye
could reach from the occasional small hills which we passed in our
route.</p>
<p>Water was found about two miles off in the range, affording a
bare sufficiency for ourselves and horses.</p>
<p>June 14.�Fine clear weather. Proceeded on our journey
northwards: the first four or five miles was over a rocky broken
country, consisting of low hills, rising westerly of Peel's range.
After going about six miles and a half the country became more open
and less rocky; as the grass was here better than at our last
night's halting-place, and the water convenient and tolerable, we
resolved upon stopping, particularly as I intended resting the
horses to-morrow; and I was fearful if I proceeded farther I might
meet with neither, and thus be obliged to continue travelling
to-morrow; an exertion which the horses were not in a condition to
make. Nothing can be more irksome than the tedious days' journeys
we are obliged to make through a country in which there is not the
smallest variety, each day's occurrences and scenes being but a
recapitulation of the former: our patience would frequently be
exhausted, were we not daily reanimating ourselves with the hopes
that the morrow will bring us to a better country, and render a
journey, the labour of which has hitherto been ill repaid, of some
service to the colony, and of some satisfaction to the expectations
which had been formed of its result.</p>
<p>June 15.�Observed in lat. 33. 49. 09. S., and long. 145.
54. E. Mr. Cunningham went upon Peel's range in search of plants,
and found a few new ones; the country to the north appeared hilly
and broken, but no scrubs, such as obstructed our progress
westward, were seen. Goulburn's range had a remarkable appearance,
being broken into peaks and singularly shaped hills. A solitary
native was seen by one of our party, but he ran off with great
precipitation on friendly signs being made to him to approach.</p>
<p>June 16.�It blew extremely hard during the night, and
rained incessantly, as it still continues to do, with scarcely any
intermission. This morning we had the misfortune to find one horse
dead, the same that fell under his load on the 3d instant, and, as
he had carried little or nothing since, he appeared to be
recovering his strength. Independently of the continuance of heavy
rain, which would certainly have prevented me from attempting to
set forward, the ground has become so hollow and soft from the rain
which fell during the night, that it was the universal opinion that
the horses could not travel under their loads. It cleared up
towards night, with the exception of occasional heavy showers.</p>
<p>June 17.�Towards morning the weather became fine, with
fresh winds from the north-east; at eight o'clock set forward on
our journey, the ground extremely wet and soft.</p>
<p>We could not proceed above ten miles when we stopped, one of the
horses being completely disabled from going any farther. The line
of country we passed over was rocky, barren, and miserable, the
level grounds being a perfect bog; to the westward, low irregular
rocky ranges, with blasted and decayed cypresses on their summits,
were the only objects which presented themselves to our view. There
was neither grass nor water where we stopped; of course, nothing
but the absolute necessity that existed to spare the horses could
induce us to halt. People were sent to search the range for water,
but all their endeavours proved fruitless, after wandering in every
probable direction until sunset. The coldness of the air would have
prevented us from feeling much inconvenience from this privation,
had it been in our power to have satisfied our hunger but salt
pork, would have proved an aggravating meal without water; we
therefore preferred an absolute fast to the certainty of increasing
our thirst.</p>
<p>About sunset the wind increased to a perfect storm, accompanied
by heavy showers, which prevented the horses from suffering so
severely as they otherwise would.</p>
<p>June 18.�The weather was very tempestuous during the
night: towards morning the wind somewhat abated, and left light
drizzling showers. Our search after water was renewed, and so far
succeeded as to procure us about a pint of rain-water each, which
afforded us great relief. It did not appear that the horses had
been equally successful.</p>
<p>Upon consultation, in our present critical situation it was
resolved that Mr. Evans should proceed forward to the
north-north-west until he found grass and water, and as it was
evident to all that the horses were utterly incapable of proceeding
with their present loads to any distance, I thought it expedient to
leave half our provisions behind, and proceed to the place selected
by Mr Evans, and then to send back for the remainder: in fact,
there remained no alternative; reduced as the horses were in their
strength, it would have been in the highest degree imprudent to
have dared the almost certainty of killing them by proceeding with
their usual loads.</p>
<p>After going about three miles we came upon a small valley which
afforded both good grass and water; the latter was rain-water
collected in holes at the base of the range, which was composed of
a hard granite rock. In this valley we found several holes dug by
the natives, for the purpose of receiving water; in some a few
quarts of muddy water were found, others were quite dry. It rained
almost incessantly during the whole of this day, rendering our
situation extremely unpleasant.</p>
<p>As if to add to our misfortunes, it was now first discovered
that three of the casks, which had all along been taken for flour
casks, were filled with pork; and upon a minute investigation it
came out, that when, on the 1st of May, the large boat had been
reported to have filled from the falling of the river without any
other accident, that then, in fact, three of the upper tier of
casks had been washed out of her. It was impossible, at this
distance of time, to exactly ascertain how such a serious loss
could have happened and not have been discovered before, for the
boatmen persisted in declaring that their cargo was then all safe;
but, as so large a quantity could not possibly have been consumed
by the party clandestinely without certain discovery, it appeared
quite clear that the loss either happened on that day or on the
4th, when the large boat sunk from having been stove. In counting
our casks up to this period, three, in every respect the same as
the flour casks, with similar marks, had been reckoned in their
lieu by us all, whilst the deficiency being then apparently in the
pork was not suspected by any.</p>
<p>In this distressing dilemma nothing remained for us but to
reduce our ration of flour in such a proportion as would leave us
twelve weeks of that article, and as we had still plenty of pork,
to issue an extra pound of it weekly. Since leaving the depot we
had been so extremely guarded in the issue of provisions, to
prevent the possibility of our suffering from any longer
protraction of our journey than was expected, that never more than
six pounds of flour had been issued to each person weekly, which
now, from this accident coming to light, was reduced to four
pounds: it was, in truth, extremely fortunate that we had thus kept
within the calculated ration, as otherwise our situation would have
been highly alarming.</p>
<p>Some of our party began even now to anticipate the resources of
famine, for a large native dog being killed, it was pronounced,
like lord Peter's loaf, in the Tale of a Tub, to be true, good,
natural mutton as any in Leadenhall-market, and eaten accordingly:
for myself, I was not yet brought to the conversion of Martin and
Jack.</p>
<p>The natives had been in this valley very recently, and I
conjectured that they were then not far from us. In the afternoon,
the rain still continuing, I sent back the strongest of the horses
to bring up the provisions left behind. Towards eight o'clock the
wind increased to a storm, so that the rain was forced through our
tent in every part, and we were fairly washed out: this abated
about ten o'clock, and the weather partially cleared up. Upon the
whole this was the most uncomfortable day and night we had
experienced since we quitted the depot.</p>
<p>June 19.�Fresh winds from the north-west, with thick small
rain. The valley was now a complete bog, the hills closing on each
side of it, and its widest part not exceeding two hundred yards:
the soil imbibes all the water almost as fast as it falls. There
was one comfort in all this bad weather; we had plenty of water,
and the horses tolerable grass.</p>
<p>Taking advantage of a fair interval, I explored to the
north-north-west about a mile, whence I had a tolerable view of the
country between the showers: it was broken into very remarkable
hills between the north-west by north and north-east; to the west
it was more level, and having been burnt, the young grass gave it a
more cheering aspect than any we had seen for some time. Bearings
were taken to several remarkable hills for the purpose of
connecting the survey.</p>
<p>Two swans passed over the valley to the north-west, which we
considered as a sign that water lay in that direction.</p>
<p>June 20.�The weather broke up during the night, and the
morning was fair and pleasant. However desirable it was that the
horses should remain another day in this valley to recruit, yet, in
the present unsettled state of the season, I was unwilling to lose
an hour more than was absolutely necessary. We here left all the
spare horse-shoes, broken axes, etc. in order to lighten the burden
of the horses. This little valley received the name of Peach
Valley, from our having here planted the last of our
fruit-stones.</p>
<p>At eight we proceeded to the north-north-west, our course taking
us over a broken barren country; the hills composed of rocks and
small stones, the valleys and flats of sand. To the westward of our
route the country was covered with scrubs of the eucalyptus dumosa;
these scrubs we avoided, by keeping close along the base of Peel's
range, where the country had been lately burnt. It is somewhat
singular that those scrubs and brushes seldom if ever extend to the
immediate base of the hills: the washings from them rendered the
soil somewhat better for two or three hundred yards. As to water,
we did not see the least signs of any during the whole day. After
proceeding between nine and ten miles, we stopped for the evening
on some burnt grass, which existed in sufficient quantity; but,
although we procured a few gallons of water for ourselves, not all
our researches could find a sufficiency for the horses.</p>
<p>The dogs killed a pretty large emu, which was a most luxurious
addition to our salt pork, of which alone we were all well
satiated. I ascended the range behind the tent, and I never saw a
more broken country, or one more barren. It appeared more open to
the north-north-west, to which point our course will be directed
to-morrow.</p>
<p>June 21.�Fine mild weather: at eight o'clock set forward
on our journey. The farther we proceed north-westerly, the more
convinced I am that, for all the practical purposes of civilized
man, the interior of this country westward of a certain meridian is
uninhabitable, deprived as it is of wood, water, and grass. With
respect to water, it is quite impossible that any can be retained
on such a soil as the country is composed of, and no watercourses,
for the same reason, can be formed; for, like a sponge, it absorbs
all the rain that falls, which, judging from every appearance,
cannot be much. The wandering native with his little family may
find a precarious subsistence in the ruts with which the country
abounds; but even he, with all the local knowledge which such a
life must give him, is obliged to dig with immense labour little
wells at the bottom of the hills to procure and preserve a
necessary of life which is evidently not to be obtained by any
other method.</p>
<p>We proceeded through a broken irregular country for nearly six
miles, when the evident weakness of the horses made it highly
imprudent to attempt to proceed farther. We therefore halted under
a high rocky hill, which was named Barrow's Hill; and sent round in
all directions to look for water. The goodness of Providence came
to our succour when we least expected it; an ample sufficiency for
the people being found near the top of the hill in the hollow of a
rock.</p>
<p>I ascended Barrow's Hill, and from its summit had a very
extensive prospect from the west north-west round to
east-north-east. To the north the country appeared perfectly level,
though the horizon was skirted with distant hammocks, which could
be but faintly distinguished. To the north-east were some native's
fires; and a lofty detached mountain was named Mount Flinders: a
high range to the westward was named Macquarie's Range, in honour
of his excellency the Governor.</p>
<p>The men returned late after an unsuccessful search for water,
having gone entirely round Mount Flinders. There was now nothing to
be done but to drive the horses to the base of the hill under which
we were encamped, and share with them the water whence we derived
our own supply: it was obliged to be handed from man to man in the
cooking kettle, out of which the poor animals drank; and I was
happy to find that a sufficiency would still remain to supply us
until Monday morning, when we intended again to set forward.</p>
<p>June 22.�The morning mild, but a thick drizzling rain
continued until near noon, when it cleared up. The variation of the
compass was 7. 45. E.</p>
<p>About sunset Mr. Cunningham returned from a botanical excursion
to Mount Flinders; he had found many new plants on the west side of
the mount, but nothing was seen from its summit which had not been
previously observed from Barrow's Hill: Frazer, our botanical
soldier, also returned from Mount Bowen, in Goulburn's Range; but
was not fortunate enough to find any thing new in vegetation, as it
had been lately burnt: it was, however, remarkable that the
paneratium Macquarie should be found growing in great abundance at
the very top; this plant never being found except near moist
Places, and in the vicinity of water. At the foot of Mount Bowen,
Frazer fell in with a native camp, which had not been quitted more
than a day or two: among the reliques were three or four pearl
muscles, such as we had observed on the river; and it is probable
that these may have been the property of natives who live more
immediately in that vicinity. These shells are used as knives,
being ground very sharp against the rocks, and certainly for a
scraper they may answer very well.</p>
<p>It may here be remarked, that the composition of the lofty
detached hills, designated as mounts, is uniformly different from
the rock composing the bases and summits of the more connected and
elevated tracts, and what may more properly be termed ranges; the
latter being of hard dark coloured granite, whilst the former
rather resembles hard sandstone, studded with pebbles and quartz.
The west side of Mount Flinders was covered with quartz, whilst the
larger pieces of rock, on being broken, appeared to be an indurated
sandstone.</p>
<p>June 23.�The watering our horses took us up so much time,
that it was ten o'clock before we set forward to the northward.
After proceeding about four miles, the country became much more
open, extending east and west over a flat level plain, the botany
of which, in every respect, resembled Field's Plains; except that a
new species of eucalyptus took place of the acacia pendula. A flock
of large kangaroos was seen for the first time since we quitted the
Lachlan; also many emus and bustards. Our dogs killed three
kangaroos and two emus. The soil of these plains was a stiff
tenacious clay, and had every appearance of being frequently under
water: as we were now in the parallel of the spot where the river
divided into branches, the altered appearance of the country
induced us to hope that we should shortly fall in with some
permanent water, and be relieved from the constant anxiety
attendant on the precarious supply to which we had lately been
enured.</p>
<p>After going eight miles and a quarter, we suddenly came upon the
banks of the river; I call it the river, for it could certainly be
no other than the Lachlan, which we had quitted nearly five weeks
before. Our astonishment was extreme, since it was an incident
little expected by any one. It was here extremely diminished in
size, but was still nearly equal in magnitude to the south-west
branch which we last quitted. The banks were about twelve or
fourteen feet above the water, and it was running with a tolerably
brisk stream to the westward. The banks were so thickly covered
with large eucalypti, that we did not perceive it until we were
within a very few yards of it; it appeared about thirty feet broad,
running over a sandy bottom. I think it extremely probable that the
waters of both the main branches, after losing a very considerable
portion over the low grounds in the neighbourhood of Mount
Cunningham and Field's Plains, have again united and formed the
present stream.</p>
<p>Our future course did not admit of any hesitation, and it was
resolved to go down the stream as long as there was a chance of its
becoming more considerable, and until our provisions should be so
far expended as barely to enable us to return to Bathurst.</p>
<p>It is a singular phenomenon in the history of this river, that,
in a course of upwards of two hundred and fifty miles, in a direct
line from where Mr. Evans first discovered it, not the smallest
rivulet, or, in fact, water of any description, falls into it from
either the north or south; with the exception of the two small
occasional streams near the depot, which flow from the north.</p>
<p>The country to the southward, in its soil and productions,
explains pretty satisfactorily why no constant running streams can
have sources in that direction; and it may be esteemed, as to
useful purposes, a desert, uninhabitable country. A small strip
along the sea-coast may possibly be better, and derive water from
the low hills which are known to border on it: south of the
parallel of 34. S. may therefore be considered as falling under the
above designation and description of country.</p>
<p>The plains south of the river, and lying from Goulburn's to
Macquarie's Range, were named Strangford Plains; and a remarkable
peak south of Barrow's Hill, Dryander's Head.</p>
<p>We resolved to try if our old friends, the fish, still continued
in the streams; in the course of a short time five fine ones were
caught: this most seasonable refreshment had an excellent effect in
raising our hitherto depressed spirits; and eternal Hope again
visited us in the form of extensive lakes and a better country; and
even when her companion Fear obtruded herself on our minds, the
certainty of plenty of water, and the chance of a fresh meal,
dispelled every remaining anxiety.</p>
<p>It was a matter of considerable curiosity and interest to us, in
what direction the Macquarie River had run; it was clear that it
had not joined the present stream, for in that case it would have
been much more considerable: we were within three or four miles of
the latitude of Bathurst, and it was scarcely probable that it
should continue for so long a course to run parallel to the
Lachlan. The whole form, character, and composition of this part of
the country is so extremely singular, that a conjecture on the
subject is hardly hazarded before it is overturned; every thing
seems to run counter to the ordinary course of nature in other
countries.</p>
<p>June 24.�The water is about three feet above the common
level, and although the banks on both sides are certainly
occasionally overflowed, there is no appearance of any fresh or
flood having swollen the stream for a considerable time.</p>
<p>At nine o'clock we set forward down the river; our course lay
westerly, and by three o'clock we had gone nearly twelve miles in
that direction; when we stopped for the night on the banks of the
river near the termination of Macquarie's Range, the north point of
which I named Mount Porteous.</p>
<p>Strangford's Plains lay along our course the whole way; the
river being hidden from our view by a thick border of trees. We
observed several hollows and gulleys, which being connected with
the river in times of flood, receive their waters from it; they
were now dry; but the singularity consisted in the water being
conveyed by them over the low lands instead of their being the
channels by which the waters in rainy seasons might be drained off
to the river. During our whole journey, we have never discovered in
what manner any additional supply of water could be conveyed to it,
as the back lands (with the exception of the ranges) were always
lower than the immediate banks of the river itself; where we
stopped, it was about thirty feet wide, and nearly choked up with
fallen trees.</p>
<p>Whilst the horses were coming up, I set off, accompanied by Mr.
Cunningham, for the purpose of ascending Mount Porteous: the view
from it by no means repaid us for our trouble; the same everlasting
flats met our eye in every direction westerly round nearly to
north, in which quarter the horizon was occasionally studded with
hills, at too great a distance to render them objects of interest
to us. The immediate vicinity of the river was free from timber or
brush in various places; and these tracts have hitherto received
the particular denomination of <i>plains</i>, which might with
equal propriety be extended to the whole country. The bases of the
hills and ranges were invariably a barren red sand, affording
nourishment to a few miserable cypresses and eucalypti dumosa;
between which, and filling up all the intermediate spaces, grows a
variety of acacia and dwarf shrubs, rendering those parts nearly a
thicket. Within one hundred yards of the bank of the river, and
there alone, were seen the only timber trees we had met with in the
country; if huge unshapen eucalypti, which would not afford a
straight plank ten feet long, may be so denominated.</p>
<p>June 25,�Proceeded down the river, and at three o'clock
halted for the night, having performed about eleven miles; the
country barren, even to the very verge of the stream, which
continues to run nearly west. We were obliged to keep at a small
distance from the river, owing to large lagoons, partly full of
water, which would have otherwise interrupted our course, or rather
our multitude of courses; for I never saw a stream with such
opposite windings, and no one reach was a quarter of a mile long,
so that it may be said to resemble a collar of SS. The opposite
plains were named Butterworth Plains.</p>
<p>Several new plants were the result of to-day's research, among
them a new species of amaryllis, upon which the botanists prided
themselves much; for in this country few were supposed to be in
existence.</p>
<p>June 26.�The morning cold and frosty. At nine o'clock we
proceeded down the river, which inclined to the south of west for
ten miles; when at three o'clock we stopped for the evening. We
passed through a country to the full as barren as any we had yet
seen. There were occasional clear spaces, but for the greater part
thick cypress bushes, acacia, and other low shrubs, rendered it
difficult for the horses to pass. On the plain, the acacia pendula
again made a very fine appearance.</p>
<p>The timber on the intermediate banks of the stream became
scarcer and smaller; and from the marks on the trees in the swamps,
it sometimes overflows them to the depth of two feet; but they have
now apparently been long dry, the little water remaining in the
hollows or holes being a milky white.</p>
<p>The abundance of white cockatoos and crows, which is constantly
about the banks of the river, is astonishing; the other smaller
birds appear to be also common to the east coast. Since we have
been on the river, no recent traces of the natives have been seen;
here, as higher up the river, they rather seem to shun it, and
frequent the higher grounds in preference: perhaps their food is
more easily procured on those grounds than on the river,
particularly as they appear unacquainted with the method of taking
the fish by hook and line.</p>
<p>As the horses were by no means in a condition to be forced, I
determined to remain here to-morrow to refresh them, and set
forward again on Saturday morning.</p>
<p>June 27.�After breakfast, I sent two men down the river to
examine our route for to-morrow: one of them crossed over to the
north side, to endeavour to reach some open spaces of plains which
we saw from our tent. In the course of the afternoon they both
returned; one, who had gone a little way inland on this side, could
make no progress for extensive swamps, covered with water of the
depth of from two to four feet, and abounding with black swans and
wild fowl. The other man was also unable to reach the plains on the
other side for water supplied from a creek of the river, and
forming an extensive and deep morass.</p>
<p>With these unfavourable reports before us, we determined to keep
close to this bank of the river during tomorrow's journey; and if
we should he prevented by its overflowing from proceeding, to
return, and endeavour to round the morasses to the southward.
Latitude by observation 33. 22. S., long. 145. 24. 15. E.; and the
variation of the compass 7. 30. E.</p>
<p>June 28.�Upon farther consideration, it appeared more
advisable that the horses should proceed round the south edge of
the morasses rather than be obliged to return; after keeping by the
river for three or four miles, which to all appearance was as far
as we should be enabled to proceed in that direction. However, that
there might remain no doubt as to which was the preferable route, I
adhered to my determination to go down the banks of the river
myself as far as I could, and return by the route which the horses
were to take. Our principal object being to keep as close to the
stream as possible, with reference to the ability of the horses to
travel over the ground.</p>
<p>The horses set forward at nine o'clock$ and I proceeded down the
stream five or six miles, when I was obliged to return to the place
from which I set out, being unable to cross a small drain that led
from the swamps to the river. I could in no place deviate above
fifty yards from the river without being bogged, the water lying in
some places eighteen inches deep, and in holes, much deeper. I
attempted several times to proceed southerly, intending to cross
the track which I presumed Mr. Evans would be obliged to take, but
I was unable to accomplish it. The route taken by Mr. Evans and the
horses led along the edge of extensive morasses covered with water;
we proceeded nine or ten miles, when the morasses almost assumed
the appearance of lakes; very extensive portions of them being free
from timber, and being apparently deep water. South of the edge of
the morass along which we travelled, the country was a barren
scrub, and in places very soft; the horses falling repeatedly
during the day.</p>
<p>At the place where we stopped for the evening, I calculated that
we were about five miles south of the river; on the edge of a very
large lagoon, or lake. The country was so extremely low, that
before I returned up the river to rejoin the horses, wishing to see
what the openings on the other side were, I ascended a large gum
tree, which enabled me to see that the flats opposite were similar
to those on the south side. Our progress, upon the whole although
we had travelled upwards of ten miles, did not exceed in a direct
line five miles. The lagoons abound with water fowl, although we
were not so fortunate as to obtain any; we were however amply
compensated by our dogs killing a fine large emu. Various old marks
of natives having visited these lakes, but none recent.</p>
<p>June 29.�Our course in the first instance was directed in
such a manner as to compass the lagoons, which after travelling
about three miles and a half to the south-west, we accomplished,
and again came upon the stream; the country thence backward bore
the marks of being at some periods near three feet under water, and
was covered with small box-trees: the country from our rejoining
the river, to the place at which we stopped for the evening,
consisted of barren plains, extending on both sides of the stream
to a considerable distance backward. The points of the bends of the
river were universally wet swamps with large lagoons; the back
land, though equally subject to flood, was now dry; but the
travelling was very heavy, the ground being a rotten, red, sandy
loam, on which nothing grew but the usual production of marshes. I
never saw a stream with so many sinuosities; in many places a
quarter of a mile would cut off at least three miles by the river.
The stream was in places much contracted, sand banks stretching
nearly across; its medium depth was about eight feet.</p>
<p>There was not the smallest eminence whence a view might be
obtained, the country appearing a dead level; and although on these
plains we could see for some distance all round, yet there was not
a rising ground in any direction. The plains on the north side of
the stream were named Holdsworthy; and those on the south,
Harrington. We were lucky enough to procure two fine emus.</p>
<p>June 30.�The first two or three miles were somewhat harder
travelling than the greater part of yesterday. Immense plains
extended to the westward, as far as the eye could reach. These
plains were entirely barren, being evidently in times of rain
altogether under water, when they doubtless form one vast lake:
they extended in places from three to six miles from the margin of
the stream, which on its immediate borders was a wet bog, full of
small water holes, and the surface covered with marsh plants, with
a few straggling dwarf box-trees. It was only on the very edge of
the bank, and in the bottoms of the bights, that any eucalypti
grew; the plains were covered with nothing but gnaphalium: the soil
various, in some places red tenacious clay, in others a dark
hazel-coloured loam, so rotten and full of holes that it was with
difficulty the horses could travel over them. Although those plains
were bounded only by the horizon, not a semblance of a hill
appeared in the distance; we seemed indeed to have taken a long
farewell of every thing like an elevation, whence the surrounding
country could be observed. To the southward, bounding those plains
in that direction, barren scrubs and dwarf box-trees, with
numberless holes of stagnant water, too clearly proclaimed the
nature of the country in that quarter. We could see through the
openings of the trees on the river that plains of similar extent
occupied the other side, which has all along appeared to us to be
(if any thing) the lower ground. We travelled in the centre of the
plains, our medium distance from the river being from one to two
miles; and although we did not go above thirteen miles, some of the
horses were excessively distressed from the nature of the
ground.</p>
<p>There was not the least appearance of natives; nor was bird or
animal of any description seen during the day, except a solitary
native dog. Nothing can be more melancholy and irksome than
travelling over wilds, which nature seems to have condemned to
perpetual loneliness and desolation. We seemed indeed the sole
living creatures in those vast deserts.</p>
<p>The plains last travelled over were named Molle's Plains, after
the late lieutenant-governor of the territory; and those on the
opposite side, Baird's Plains, after the general to whom he once
acted as aide-de-camp, and whose glory he shared. The naming of
places was often the only pleasure within our reach; but it was
some relief from the desolation of these plains and hills to throw
over them the associations of names dear to friendship, or sacred
to genius. In the evening three or four small fish were caught.</p>
<p>July 1.�Dark cloudy morning, with showers of rain. However
desirous I was to proceed, I found that to do so would greatly
injure the horses. Towards noon it cleared up, permitting me to
take a tolerable observation, to ascertain our situation. I
consider ourselves as peculiarly fortunate in being blessed with so
dry and favourable a season; since all attempts to penetrate into
the country during rain, or after an inundation of the stream, must
have failed. I am quite convinced that at this place, when the
banks are overflowed, the waters must extend from thirty to forty
miles on each side of the stream, as we are that distance from any
eminence. If there had been any nearer to the north, west, or
south, we must have seen it from those extensive plains on which we
have travelled for the last three days; for looking eastward, we
can distinctly perceive Macquarie's Range, from which we estimate
ourselves to be about thirty-five miles west. The stream was
sounded in various places during the day, and its greatest depth
never exceeded seven feet; the bottom and sides a stiff bluish
clay. Latitude observed 33. 32. 22. S., longitude 145. 5. 50. E.;
variation of the compass 6. 49. E.</p>
<p>July 2.�At nine o'clock we again set forward down the
stream; our course, as it has hitherto done, lay over apparently
interminable plains, nothing relieving the eye but a few scattered
bushes, and occasionally some dwarf box-trees: the view was
boundless as the ocean, neither eminence nor hillock appearing. On
the edges of the stream alone, and the lagoons that occasionally
branched from it, was any thing like timber to be seen. The
occasional openings on the stream enabled us to perceive, that the
north side was in every respect similar to the south: I was so much
deceived, by the semblance of the plains on the other side to
sheets of water, that I twice went down to the edge of the stream
to assure myself to the contrary.</p>
<p>A strong current of water must frequently pass over these
plains, as is evident from the traces left by the washings of
shrubs, leaves, etc. The soil was a brown hazel-coloured sandy
loam, very soft and boggy; in places it was more tenacious, water
still remaining in many holes. By the marks on the trees it would
seem that the stream occasionally overflows its banks to the depth
of three or four feet; and five miles back from it small trees were
seen, that had evidently stood from twelve to eighteen inches in
the water. As usual we saw no recent signs of natives having
visited these parts; here and there the remains of burnt
muscle-shells would denote that at certain seasons the stream is
visited by them for the purpose of procuring these shell-fish: I am
clearly of opinion that, in dry summers, there is no running water
in the bed of the present stream, and thus it is easy for them to
procure the muscles from the shallow stagnant pools which would
naturally be formed at every bend of the stream. To procure any
such shell-fish whilst a stream like the present is running in it,
is totally impossible.</p>
<p>Although we did not travel above eleven miles, we were nearly
seven hours in performing it. Our halting place was within a few
feet of the river, and so wet and spongy, that the water sprung
even from the pressure of our feet; and this has been the case
nearly ever since we made the stream, though of course we chose the
driest spots. Neither hunting nor fishing were successful today,
but as we had become from experience not over sanguine, our
expectations were not much disappointed, and the aspect of the
country promised nothing.</p>
<p>It had been remarked by all, for some days past, that a putrid
sour smell seemed to proceed from the plains, and we were at first
at some loss to discover the cause of it, as there did not appear
sufficient vegetable matter in a decayed state to produce such an
effect. Mr. Cunningham discovered that it proceeded from decayed
plants of the salsolae, which produce the same effect as decayed
sea-weed does in salt marshes; in short, all the plants found in
our journey over these plains are the natural productions of low
wet situations.</p>
<p>July 3.�So thick a fog arose during the night, that in the
morning we could not see in any direction above one hundred yards;
this delayed us considerably, and it was the middle of the day
before we could proceed.</p>
<p>Our course lay over the same description of country as we had
previously passed. The soil in some parts a red loamy mould; in
others, a dark hazel-coloured sandy soil: this last appears to have
its origin in the depositions left by floods, the former being the
original or prevailing soil. The plants and shrubs the same as
yesterday.</p>
<p>Several flocks of a new description of pigeon were seen for the
first time; two were shot, and were beautiful and curious. Their
heads were crowned with a black plume, their wings streaked with
black, the short feathers of a golden colour edged with white; the
back of their necks a light flesh-colour, their breasts
fawn-coloured, and their eyes red. A new species of cockatoo or
paroquet, being between both, was also seen, with red necks and
breasts, and grey backs. I mention these birds thus particularly,
as they are the only ones we have yet seen which at all differ from
those known on the east coast.<sup>[*]</sup> Our visible horizon,
in every direction, being merely studded with shrubs and low
bushes, gave the scene a singular marine appearance. We stopped
about two miles south of the river, not being able to reach it
before night-fall, the marshy ground having driven us a
considerable distance round.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* See the Plates. (no plates of birds were
included in the facsimile edition from which this ebook eas
made)]</p>
<p>July 4.�During this day's course we repeatedly attempted
to gain the situation where we supposed the river to take its
course, but were always disappointed; immense swamps constantly
barred our attempts to travel northerly; these swamps were now
covered with several feet of water, which, from the marks of dwarf
trees growing in them, is sometimes three or four feet deeper. The
same dead level of country still prevailed; and the sandy deserts
of Arabia could not boast a clearer horizon, the low acacia bushes
not in any degree interrupting the view. It was remarkable that
there was always water where the dwarf box-trees grew; we might
therefore be said to coast along from woody point to point, since
all attempts to pass through them were uniformly defeated. The soil
the same as yesterday, and most unpleasant to travel over, from the
circular pools or hollows, which covered the whole plain, and which
seem to be formed by whirlpools of water, having a deep hole in the
bottom, through which the water appeared to have gradually drained
off. It is clear that the entire country is at times inundated, and
that as every thing now bears the appearance of long-continued
drought, the swamps and stagnant waters are the residuum.</p>
<p>In the whole we proceeded upwards of fourteen miles, and stopped
for the night upon the edge of one of the swamps, which are now the
only places that afford any timber for firing. Some traces of
natives were seen today, about three or four days old; they
appeared to have been a single family of four or five persons. If
there are any natives in our neighbourhood, they must have
discovered us, and keep out of the way, otherwise upon these clear
flats we could not avoid seeing them.</p>
<p>We were again fortunate enough to kill an emu, a most acceptable
supply, since continued exercise gives us appetites something
beyond what our ration can satisfy.</p>
<p>July 5.�Independently of the nature of the country
rendering it altogether uninhabitable, the noxious vapours that
must naturally arise during the heats of summer from these marshes
(should the present surface of land on which we are now travelling
be then free from water), would render the whole tract peculiarly
unhealthy. Even during the short space of a fortnight, when it
might be presumed that the winter's cold had in a great degree
rendered the effluvia innoxious, every person in the expedition was
more or less affected by dysenterical complaints; and the putrid
sour smell that constantly attended us was symptomatic of what
would be its effects when rendered active by the powerful heats of
summer.</p>
<p>Although there was no grass out of the marshes for the horses to
feed upon, yet they appeared to live very tolerably upon a species
of atriplex which covered the plains, and being extremely succulent
was eaten with avidity by them; they certainly preferred it to the
grasses which the swamps produced.</p>
<p>Our route lay over the same unvarying plain surface as on the
preceding days, and after travelling about five miles, we again saw
the line of trees growing on the banks of the stream; and having
performed about ten miles more, we halted on the immediate banks of
it. These were considerably lower, being about six feet above the
water; the current was almost imperceptible, and the depth did not
exceed four feet, and was extremely muddy; the trees growing on the
banks were neither so large nor so numerous as before, and a new
species of eucalyptus prevailed over the old blue gum. The
north-east side was precisely of the same description of country as
the south-east. A very large sheet of water or lake lay on the
north-west side, opposite to the place where we made the river. The
horizon was clear and distinct round the whole circle, the line of
trees on the river alone excepted. From the marks on these trees,
the waters appear to rise about three feet above the level of the
bank; a height more than sufficient to inundate the whole country.
This stream is certainly in the summer season, or in the long
absence of rain, nothing more than a mere chain of ponds, serving
as a channel to convey the waters from the eastward over this low
tract. It is certain that no waters join this river from its source
to this point; and passing, as it does, for the most part, through
a line of country so low as to be frequently overflowed, and to an
extent north and south perfectly unknown. but certainly at this
place exceeding forty miles, it must cause the country to remain
for ever uninhabitable, and useless for all the purposes of
civilized man.</p>
<p>These considerations, added to the state of our provisions, of
which, at the reduced ration of three pounds of flour per man per
week, we had but ten weeks remaining, determined me to proceed no
farther westward with the main part of the expedition; but as the
state of the greater part of our horses was such as absolutely to
require some days' rest and refreshment, before we attempted to
return eastward, I considered that it would be acting best up to
the spirit of my instructions to proceed forward myself with three
men and horses, and as we should carry nothing with us but our
provisions, we should be enabled to proceed with so much
expedition, as to go as far and see as much in three days as would
take the whole party at least seven to perform.</p>
<p>My object in thus proceeding farther was to get so far to the
westward as to place beyond all question the impossibility of a
river falling into the sea between Cape Otway and Cape Bernouilli.
In my opinion, the very nature of the country altogether precludes
such a possibility, but I think my proceeding so far will be
conclusive with those who have most strongly imbibed the conviction
that a river enters the sea between the Capes in question, which
was certainly an idea I also had entertained, and which nothing but
the survey of a country, without either hills or permanent streams,
could have destroyed.</p>
<p>I must observe as a remarkable feature in this singular country,
that for the last fifty miles we have not seen a stone or pebble of
any kind, save two, and they were taken out of the maws of two
emus. I am now firmly persuaded that there are no eminent grounds
in this part of the country, until these low sandy
hills<sup>[*]</sup> which bound the south-western coast-line are
reached; and these, in my judgment, are the only barriers which
prevent the ocean from extending its empire over a country which
was probably once under its dominion.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* From Encounter Bay to this slight projection
(Cape Bernouilli), the coast is little else than a bank of sand,
with a few hummocks on the top, partially covered with small
vegetation, nor could any thing in the interior country be
distinguished above the bank. <i>Flinder's Voyage</i>, Vol. I. p.
197.]</p>
<p>July 6.�A fine and pleasant morning; one of the horses was
found dead, the greater part of the others in a very weakly
state.</p>
<p>July 7.�At eight o'clock, taking with me three men, I
proceeded to follow the course of the stream; I attempted in the
first instance to keep away from the banks, but was soon obliged to
join them, as the morasses extended outwards and intersected my
proposed course in almost every direction. About three miles and a
half from the tent, a large arm extended from the north bank to a
considerable distance on that side; the banks continually getting
lower, and before we had gone six miles it was evident that the
channel of the stream was only the bed of a lagoon, the current now
being imperceptible, with small gum trees growing in the middle.
Three miles farther the morasses closed upon us, and rendered all
farther progress impossible. The water was here stagnant. The large
trees that used to be met with in such numbers up the stream were
entirely lost, a few diminutive gums being the only timber to be
seen: the height of the bank from the water-line was three feet six
inches; and the marks of floods on the trunks of the trees rose to
the height of four feet six inches, being about one foot above the
level of the surrounding marshes. It would appear that the water is
frequently stationary at that height for a considerable time, as
long moss and other marks of stagnant waters were remaining on the
trunks and roots of the trees, and on the long-leaved acacia, which
was here a strong plant. There could not be above three feet water
in this part of the lagoon, as small bushes and tufts of tea grass
were perceptible. The water was extremely muddy, and the odour
arising from the banks and marshes was offensive in the extreme.
There were only four different kinds of plants at this terminating
point of our journey, viz. the small eucalyptus, the long-leaved
acacia, the large tea grass, and a new diaeceous plant which
covered the marshes, named polygonum junceum. It is possible that
the bed of the lagoon might extend eight or ten miles farther, but
I do not think it did, as the horizon was perfectly clear in all
directions, a few bushes and acacia trees, marking the course of
the lagoon, excepted.</p>
<p>Had there been any hill or even small eminence within thirty or
forty miles of me they must now have been discovered, but there was
not the least appearance of any such, and it was with infinite
regret and pain that I was forced to come to the conclusion, that
the interior of this vast country is a marsh and uninhabitable. How
near these marshes may approach the south-western coast, I know
not; but I do not think that the range of high and dry land in that
quarter extends back north-easterly for any great distance; it
being known, that the coast from Cape Bernouilli to the head of
Spencer's Gulf is sandy and destitute of water.<sup>[*]</sup></p>
<p class="footnote">[* The view from the top of Mount Brown (in
lat. 32. 30. 15. S. and lon. 138. 0.�. E. head of Spencer's Gulf)
was very extensive, its elevation not being less than three
thousand feet; but neither rivers nor lakes could be perceived, nor
any thing of the sea to the south-eastward. In almost every
direction the eye traversed over an uninterruptedly flat woody
country, the sole exceptions being the ridge of mountains,
extending north and south; and the water of the gulf to the
south-westward. Flinder's Voy. Vol. I. p. 159.]</p>
<p>Perhaps there is no river, the history of which is known, that
presents so remarkable a termination as the present: its course in
a straight line from its source to its termination exceeds five
hundred miles, and including its windings, it may fairly be
calculated to run at least twelve hundred miles; during all which
passage, through such a vast extent of country, it does not receive
a single stream in addition to what it derives from its sources in
the eastern mountains.</p>
<p>I think it a probable conjecture that this river is the channel
by which all the waters rising in those ranges of hills to the
westward of Port Jackson, known by the name of the Blue Mountains,
and which do not fall into the sea on the east coast, are conveyed
to these immense inland marshes; its sinuous course causing it to
overflow its banks on a much higher level than the present, and in
consequence, forming those low wet levels which are in the very
neighbourhood of the government depot. Its length of course is, in
my opinion, the principal cause of our finding any thing like a
stream for the last one hundred miles, as the immense body of water
which must undoubtedly be at times collected in such a river must
find a vent somewhere, but being spent during so long a course
without any accession, the only wonder is, that even those waters
should cause a current at so great a distance from their source;
everything however indicates, as before often observed, that in dry
seasons the channel of the river is empty, or forms only a chain of
ponds. It appears to have been a considerable length of time since
the banks were overflowed, certainly not for the last year; and I
think it probable they are not often so: the quantity of water must
indeed be immense, and of long accumulation, in the upper marshes,
before the whole of this vast country can be under water.</p>
<p>My intention to penetrate farther westward being thus
frustrated, I returned to the tent about three o'clock, and
determined, should the horses appear sufficiently recovered and
refreshed, finally to quit this western part of the country on
Thursday next; a few days rain would prevent us from ever quitting
it, but we have been bountifully favoured by Providence with a
season of continued fair and pleasant weather, which could hardly
have been expected, and which alone could have enabled us to decide
so satisfactorily, if it can be called satisfaction to prove the
negative of the existence of any navigable rivers in this part of
Australia.</p>
<p>July 8.�Observed the sun's magnetic amplitude in rising
from the clear horizon of the plain, a circumstance that rarely can
occur in any country unless such a one as the present; it strongly
marks the. horizontal level which seems to run now from east to
west.</p>
<pre>Mean lat. of our tent   33 degrees 53 minutes 19 seconds S.
Comp. long.            144         33         50         E.
Mean variation           7         25         00         E.

Situation of the spot where the stream ceased to have a current.

Lat                     33 degrees 57 minutes 30 seconds S.
Long. comp.            144         23         00         E.
Do.    do.             144         31         15         E.
</pre>
<p>No hill or eminence in a south-west direction terminating in
lat. 34. 22. 12. and in long. 143. 30. 00. E. which is the
calculated extent of our visible clear horizon.</p>
<p>The afternoon proved cloudy, with occasional showers: prepared
every thing for our return eastward on the morrow.</p>
<p>July 9.�The morning fair and pleasant, but cold, the
ground being covered with hoar-frost. At half-past eight we set out
on our return eastward, every one feeling no little pleasure at
quitting a region which had presented nothing to his exertions but
disappointment and desolation. Under a tree near the tent,
inscribed with the words "Dig under," we buried a bottle,
containing a paper bearing the date of our arrival and departure,
with our purposed course, and the names of each individual that
composed the party. I cannot flatter myself with the belief,
however, that European eyes will ever trace the characters either
on the tree or the paper; but we deposited the scroll as a memorial
that the spot had been once in the tide of time visited by
civilized man, and that should Providence forbid our safe return to
Bathurst, the friends who might search for us should at least know
the course we had taken.</p>
<p>About two o'clock we arrived at our halting-place of the 4th;
and there being no place convenient for pitching our tent within
six or seven miles farther on, we determined to remain here.</p>
<p>July 10.�Observed the variation of the compass by amp., at
sun-rising, to be 7. 47. E., by Kater's compass. The horses having
strayed, it was nearly eleven o'clock before we could set out, and
between four and five o'clock we stopped at our halting-place of
the 3d. On our way we passed a raised mound of earth which had
somewhat the appearance of a burial-place; we opened it, but found
nothing in it except a few ashes, but whether from bones or wood
could not be distinguished; a semicircular trench was dug round one
side of it, as if for seats for persons in attendance.</p>
<p>July 11.�At nine, again set forward on our return up the
river, and it was near four o'clock before we arrived at a
convenient halting-place on its banks, the river presented a most
singular phenomenon to our astonished view. That river which
yesterday was so shallow that it could be walked across, and whose
stream was scarcely perceptible, was now rolling along its agitated
and muddy waters nearly on a level with the banks: whence this
sudden rise, we could not divine, any more than we could account
for the non-appearance of a fresh twenty miles lower down; unless
the marshes which we have traced for the two last days, at a
distance from the river, should have absorbed the waters in
passing, or unless the extremely winding course should so protract
and retard the current of them as to cause a considerable time to
elapse before a flood in the upper parts could reach the lower. We
considered ourselves as extremely fortunate in having quitted our
station of the 8th a day or two before it was originally intended,
as we should otherwise have been in considerable danger.</p>
<p>The present height of the bank above the level of the stream is
four feet nine inches.</p>
<p>A singular instance of affection in one of the brute creation
was this day witnessed. About a week ago we killed a native dog,
and threw his body on a small bush: in returning past the same spot
to-day, we found the body removed three or four yards from the
bush, and the female in a dying state lying close beside it; she
had apparently been there from the day the dog was killed, being so
weakened and emaciated as to be unable to move on our approach. It
was deemed mercy to despatch her.</p>
<p>A tomb similar in form to that which we observed yesterday being
discovered near our halting-place of this day, I caused it to be
opened: it is as a conical mound of earth about four feet high in
the centre, and nearly eight feet long in the longest part, exactly
in the centre, and deep in the ground: we at first thought we
perceived the remains of a human body, which had been originally
placed upon sticks arranged transversely, but now nearly decayed by
time; nothing remained of what we took for the body but a quantity
of unctuous clayey matter. The whole had the appearance of being
not recent, the semicircular seats being now nearly level with the
rest of the ground, and the tomb itself overgrown with weeds. The
river fell about three inches in the course of the night.</p>
<p>July 12.�It is impossible that any weather can be finer
than that which we are favoured with. For days together the sky is
unobscured by even a single cloud, and although the air is cold and
sharp, yet the dryness of the atmosphere amply repays us for any
little inconvenience we sustain from the cold. At nine, we again
set forward on our return up the river, and at three arrived on its
banks, having performed about twelve miles. The river had fallen
about one foot in the course of the day. The horses being much
fatigued by the heavy travelling over the flats, and many of them
being very sorely galled in the back, I propose halting to-morrow
to refresh them. We were this day once more cheered by the sight of
rising ground; Macquarie's Range just appearing above the horizon,
distance about forty miles; and we felt that we were again about to
tread on secure and healthy land, with a chance of procuring some
sort of game, which would now be very acceptable, our diet being
entirely confined to pork and our morsel of bread. The weather is
far too cold for us to have any hopes of procuring fish; all our
attempts to catch them for the last fortnight being unsuccessful.
The odour from the river and marshes was most fetid, and was, I
think, even stronger than that which we had before experienced.</p>
<p>July 13.�In the course of the day the river fell upwards
of a foot.</p>
<p>July 14.�The river fell about eighteen inches. We found
that the horses had again strayed, and they were not found and
brought home until past sunset, having wandered about in search of
food from eight to twelve miles in various directions. As the
people had of course separated in the search, three men still
remained out; and being fearful that the darkness of the night
might prevent them from finding the camp, fired several musquets,
and kindled a fire upon the plains. It was twelve o'clock before
they were fortunate enough to regain the tents.</p>
<p>July 15.�At three, having travelled about twelve miles,
halted on the stream for the evening. The dogs killed an emu.</p>
<p>July 16.�Cloudy, but mild and pleasant. We retraced this
day much of the same ground which we travelled on the 28th ult. The
horses were frequently up to their shoulders in deep holes, to the
danger of breaking their own limbs, or those of their leaders or
riders. There is a uniformity in the barren desolateness of this
country, which wearies one more than I am able to express. One
tree, one soil, one water, and one description of bird, fish, or
animal, prevails alike for ten miles, and for one hundred. A
variety of wretchedness is at all times preferable to one unvarying
cause of pain or distress.</p>
<p>We halted on the margin of one of the swamps, after travelling
about eleven miles, which it took eight hours to accomplish.</p>
<p>July 17.�Part of the horses again strayed; these delays in
such a country try our patience to the very utmost, and their very
rambling is the sole means of their being kept alive. It was past
eleven before we could set out, and the rain that had fallen during
the night rendered our track so extremely soft that it was with
difficulty the horses could proceed. At three we halted for the
evening on a large lagoon near the river, having gone about nine
miles and a quarter.</p>
<p>July 18.�At nine proceeded onwards towards Macquarie's
Range; and at four, we halted at the place we rested at on the 24th
ult. For the first time since we left Cypress Hill we heard natives
on the other side of the river, but they kept out of our sight.</p>
<p>July 19.�At nine we proceeded up the river, and at three
arrived at the spot where we first reached the river on the 23d
ult. The fresh in the river was still considerable, being from
three to five feet above its apparent usual level.</p>
<p>July 20.�Rested the horses to-day, having had a hard
week's work, and the weather being unfavourable. Confirmed my
intention of returning to Bathurst instead of the depot on the
Lachlan, for the following reasons. The route up the Lachlan would
be difficult and very tedious, not to say impracticable, without
the assistance of boats in crossing the two principal creeks; and
if it should have proved wet and rainy, it would be nearly
impossible to travel over the low-lands with loaded horses. Again,
our return by the route outward would not afford us any additional
knowledge of the country, and presuming this river to be the
Lachlan, the course and the country in the neighbourhood of the
Macquarie would still remain unknown. To return to Bathurst by a
northerly course would enable us to trace the Macquarie to a very
considerable distance; it would give us a knowledge of the country
at least two hundred miles below Bathurst; and although the
difficulties we may meet with in the attempt are of course unknown
to us, yet I consider it a far preferable route to returning by the
Lachlan, the difficulties of which are known, and I think we may
reach one station as soon as the other.</p>
<p>To-morrow, therefore, I am resolved to set forward again up the
stream, and take the earliest opportunity to cross it; when, should
the inclination of its course be such as to give reason to believe
it to be the Macquarie, we shall continue on the north bank the
whole way to Bathurst: but, on the contrary, should its course
leave it no longer in doubt that it is the Lachlan again rising
from the marshes under Mount Cunningham, we shall quit its banks,
and, taking a north-easterly course, endeavour to fall in with the
Macquarie, which having found, I shall pursue my first intention of
keeping along its banks until we arrive at Bathurst. The river has
risen in the course of the night and morning about eighteen inches.
We killed this day a red kangaroo, and three emus.</p>
<p>July 21.�The stream has risen nearly eighteen inches in
the night. It is extremely puzzling whence such a body of water can
come thus suddenly. There must have been a great deal of rain in
the eastern mountains, and the accumulated waters can be only now
bending their way to the lower grounds; should the winter have
proved wet to the eastward, it will undoubtedly solve the
problem.</p>
<p>At half past eight o'clock we proceeded up the river, which
during our day's journey trended nearly north. Both banks appeared
equally low: that on which we were travelling extended to the base
of Goulburn's Range, and was wet and barren. About two miles from
our night's encampment, we ascended a low stony hill, from which
the country northerly was broken into detached hills; to the east
was Goulburn's Range, and to the north-west the country was low
without any rising grounds as far as we could see. The sameness
which had so wearied us during the last month was somewhat relieved
by the various rising hills and low ranges which were scattered
over the otherwise level surface of the country. A hill bearing N.
15 E. received the name of Mount Torrens; it stood quite detached.
Two of the men, who were about a mile ahead of the main party, fell
in with a small native family, consisting of a man, two women and
three children, the eldest about three years old. The man was very
stout and tall; he was armed with a jagged spear, and no friendly
motions of the men (who were totally unarmed) could induce him to
lay it aside, or suffer them to approach him: during the short time
they were with him, he kept the most watchful eye upon them; and
when the men calling the dogs together were about to depart, he
threw down with apparent fierceness the little bark guneah which
had sheltered him and his family during the night, and made towards
the river, calling loudly and repeatedly, as if to bring others to
his assistance: he was quite naked, except the netted band round
the waist, in which were womerahs. The women were covered with
skins over their shoulders, and the two younger children were slung
in them on their backs.</p>
<p>There was a very considerable fresh in the stream, and its
windings to-day were singularly remarkable, insomuch that it was
frequently taken for two different rivers; necks of land near a
mile long, but not one hundred yards wide, being the only
separation between several of the reaches. At three o'clock we
halted on its banks, having travelled eleven miles and a half.</p>
<p>July 22.�The river had risen during the night upwards of a
foot, and was now about eight feet from the banks; its breadth from
thirty to fifty feet, whilst its apparent usual channel could not
exceed from fifteen to twenty. The calls of the natives were heard
this morning on the opposite side of the river. At nine o'clock we
again proceeded up the river, which to-day trended east by north.
About four miles east from our last station, we ascended a stony
mount being near the north-east extreme of Goulburn's Range: the
country to the north-east and round to east was without any
eminences of magnitude, but several rising chains of low hills were
scattered over the general surface of the country; they were mostly
bare of trees, being stony and barren. It is impossible to imagine
a worse tract of country than that through which our route lay this
day; to the very edges of the stream, it was a barren acacia scrub
intermingled with cypresses and dwarf box-trees. The flats were
uniformly swampy, and covered with bushes (rhagodea); the hills
instead of grass were clothed with gnapthalium. We repeatedly saw
the river in our course, but I could find no eligible place to
cross it, as the trees which would have suited our purpose for
bridges were now, in consequence of the fresh or flood, in the very
middle of the stream. The banks where the rising grounds came
immediately on the river were high and of a red loamy clay, and
when this was the case the opposite banks were seen to be low in
proportion: when we halted for the night, they were not above five
or six feet, and I think there must have been from ten to twelve
feet more water in the bed of the stream than usual. Bad as the
travelling was even close to the stream, it was still worse about
two miles back from it; several small scrubs of the eucalyptus
dumosa and prickly shrubs were passed through by the men who had
taken out the dogs in search of game; and from the hill we first
ascended, we observed several very extensive scrubs to the
northward, of the same description. At half past three we halted
for the night, having gone about eleven miles.</p>
<p>July 23.�The river had fallen a little during the night.
At nine o'clock we again set forward: the country became extremely
low and marshy, far more so than any we had passed over east of
Macquarie's Range. These marshes extended so far southerly that to
have gone round them would have led us far from our purposed course
without answering any useful purpose, and although we judged that
at first they might not extend above three or four miles back, yet
we soon had reason to change that opinion. The river had led us
upon a general course nearly east about six miles, when about half
a mile from the bank southerly, a very extensive lake was formed,
extending about east-south-east and west-north-west from three to
four miles, and being about a mile and a half wide. Excepting the
sheet of water on the north side near the termination of the
stream, this was the only one we had seen that could justly be
entitled to the denomination of lake. We crossed over a low wet
swamp, by which its overflowings are doubtless re-conveyed to the
river. This lake was joined to another more easterly, but much
smaller. We could not form any correct judgment how far the marshy
ground extended south-east of it; but the country was low and level
as far as Mount Byng, and a low range extended north-easterly from
it. We now kept the banks of the stream, till at the tenth mile we
ascended a small hill a mile south of it, from which Mount Byng
bore N. 12. E. Close under the hill ran a considerable branch of
the river, which certainly supplied the lakes and lower grounds
with water; on the other side of this arm, the country was low, and
apparently marshy as far as we could see. On examination I found it
would be extremely difficult to cross this branch, as the water was
too shallow to swim the horses over, and the ground so soft that
they could not approach the banks within several yards. I therefore
determined to get upon the river nearly where this branch separated
from it, and endeavour to construct a bridge, by which we might
convey the provisions and baggage over: as to the horses, they
could easily swim across.</p>
<p>The course of the river during the day had been nearly due east,
but from the separation of the branch it seemed to take a more
northerly direction; the banks were very low, and never exceeded
five feet from the water. Occasional points of land somewhat more
elevated than the general surface would of course make them in
Places a little higher; but we could not discover any marks which
denoted a greater rise than six feet, or six feet six inches, above
the present level. When we halted in the evening, the stream was
running with great rapidity. The water did not appear to have
either risen or fallen during the day; but all the trees which
would have best answered our purposes were now several feet in the
water. We had however no alternative but to cross somewhere in this
neighbourhood, as we were fearful of entangling ourselves in marshy
ground by proceeding farther up this bank; and to attempt to
penetrate, or even to round, the marshes to the southward, (if it
were practicable,) would take up more time (without being of any
service) than we could spare. Experience had made us too well
acquainted with the nature of these marshes to run any needless
risks; and we had besides great hopes that we should find better
travelling to the northward, which as the river seemed inclined to
come from that point would also be a great convenience to us, as I
did not purpose to quit its banks as long as it continued to run
any thing north of east.</p>
<p>As to the soil and general description of country passed over
this day, the low-lands were all swamps covered with atriplex
bushes, and where the land was a little more elevated, the soil was
sandy and barren, covered with acacias, dodonaeae, small cypresses
and dwarf box-trees. Our course was E. 4. N. 6� miles; but by the
windings of the river, we had measured nearly 12 miles. The lake I
named Campbell Lake, in honour of Mrs. Macquarie's family name.</p>
<p>July 24.�At day-light we attempted to construct our bridge
near to the place where we were encamped, but as fast as the trees
were felled they were swept away by the rapidity of the current;
the breadth on an average being now, by reason of the flood, nearly
sixty feet, and the trees on the immediate or proper banks being
several feet in the water: we were therefore obliged to fell trees
farther inland, and these, as before remarked, were swept away,
falling short of the land on the opposite side.</p>
<p>All our attempts to construct a bridge during the day were
fruitless, as the flood was too violent to allow the trees to take
firm hold: in searching the banks of the stream for a proper place
for our purpose, an arm nearly as large as the main branch up which
we had travelled was discovered about a mile down the stream on the
north side; it ran to the north-north-west, and then apparently
trended more westerly. Thus is this vast body of water, all
originating in the Eastern or Blue Mountains, conveyed over these
extensive marshes, rendering uninhabitable a tract which they might
reasonably be expected to fertilize.</p>
<p>Finding that in the present high state of the water we could not
succeed in crossing the river, at least near our present station,
and that if we returned lower down we should experience a farther
difficulty in crossing the north-west arm recently seen, it was
judged best to try if we could get over the branch on the south
side, and swim the horses over in the main stream near the mouth of
the branch. We could not, however, find any tree on this side that
would reach across; although it was quite dark before we gave over
the attempt for the night.</p>
<p>July 25.�Every means was again employed in constructing
the bridge over the south-west branch. The stream had fallen but a
few inches, and continues to fall too slowly to permit us to
entertain any hopes of crossing it in this vicinity.</p>
<p>Our bridge was finished by one o'clock, but it being too late to
cross the horses and baggage this evening, I went in company with
Byrne on horseback to view the country to the southward. After
going about two miles and a quarter south of the tent, we were most
agreeably surprised with the sight of a very fine lake; we rode
down to its shores, which on this side were hard and sandy beaches.
On the south side the shores were bolder, being red clay cliffs. We
now found that the creek or arm which I had supposed to be the
source whence Campbell Lake was supplied, had not any communication
with it, but supplied the lake we now saw: a low ridge of hills,
bare of trees except small cypresses in clumps, lying between the
two lakes, which were distant from each other two or three miles.
Finding I might obtain a better view by going to the point of these
bare hills about five miles westward, I rode thither along the
margin of the lake, but quitted it to ascend the hill, which was
about two miles and a half from it. The hill was but low in
comparison with Goulburn's Range and other hills in the vicinity,
but was sufficiently elevated to afford me the most varied and
noble prospect I had seen in New South Wales The expanse of water
was too large and winding to be seen in one point of view, but it
broke in large sheets from east to west for upwards of six miles;
its medium breadth being from two and a half to three miles: it was
bounded six or seven miles from its eastern extremity by a low
range of hills connected with Mount Byng, and from the dark broken
woody appearance of the country in that direction, I felt assured
that the stream came from a more northerly quarter. To the westward
was Goulburn's Range, distant about five or six miles; its bold
rocky peaks of lofty elevation forming a striking contrast to the
dead level of the country southerly, in which however Mount Aiton
appeared like a blue speck on the horizon. To the northward was
Mount Granard, the highest of a very elevated range, it having been
seen at a distance of seventy-two miles from Mount Aiton; and to
the north-north-east were extensive open flats; in one place,
bearing N. 17. E., I thought I could distinguish water. Between the
hill on which I stood and the stream, Campbell Lake wound along the
plain, but its width did not allow it to be so conspicuously seen
as the present one. To the south-east and round to the north-east
the country was covered with dark foliage of the eucalyptus,
intermixed with the cypress; whilst to the south-west, as far as
the base of Goulburn's Range, it was more open, with gentle hills
clothed with a few small cypresses. These hills were rocky and
barren, the lower grounds a red loamy clay; but the intermingled
light and shade formed by the different description of trees and
shrubs, the hills, but above all, the noble lake before me, gave a
character to the scenery highly picturesque and pleasing.</p>
<p>From this eminence I took the following bearings to objects
connected in the survey, viz.</p>
<pre>The highest point of Goulburn's Range N. 225 degrees distance 5 or 6
miles.
Do.             Do.  Mount Aiton         143
Table Hill                               116
Mount Byng                               114
West extreme of the lake N. 106. 30. distance 2� miles.
East       Do.       Do. N.  65.     distance 5 or 6 miles
Highest point of Mount Granard          N. 341
Extremes of extensive flats from N. 346� to N. 10. distance
     12 or 14 miles, the last point being also the extreme of a low
range.
Appearance of water or a lake N. 17 degrees
Mount Torrens                 N. 294�
Mount Davidson                N. 317�
Bluff point of the clear hill on which I stand, and to which bearings
     had been previously taken to ascertain its situation, N. 186,
     distance � Mile.
Low range of hills extending from Mount Byng to N. 55.; nearest part
     of that range, N. 81, distance 8 or 9 miles.
</pre>
<p>I came back to the tent at half-past four o'clock and it was
extremely satisfactory to us to find, on laying the different
bearings down on the chart, that the connection of the survey with
Mount Aiton corresponded to less than a mile of longitude, although
it had extended on a most varied course from that point between
three and four hundred miles.</p>
<p>The water in the stream has remained stationary throughout the
day.</p>
<p>July 26.�Mr. Evans set out to view the lake and take some
sketches, whilst I remained to forward the horses and baggage over
the arm of the river, by which time I expected he would return, so
as to enable us to proceed at least a few miles farther up. By
half-past eleven we had got the horses and every other thing safely
over, and they proceeded up the river. Mr. Evans did not return
until half-past one to the bridge, having been highly gratified
with his excursion to the lake, of which he had taken two
views.</p>
<p>After proceeding to the north-east about three miles, through a
low, wet, and barren country, which is at times from eighteen
inches to two feet under water, we came upon another fine lake
about a mile distant from the river. This lake was not so large as
the last, but was nevertheless a fine sheet of water, about three
miles long and one and a half or two miles wide; the opposite or
south shore was much more elevated than that near the river, which
had here extremely low banks, the water in the stream not being
above four feet below them; the marks of flood upon the trees were
also upwards of three feet higher. The cypress-tree grew very thick
and strong on the opposite side of the lake, casting a dark shade
over its transparent waters, which, though certainly originating in
the river, had not received any supply for apparently a
considerable time. The land from hence to the place where we
stopped for the night was very low and much flooded, with fine,
deep, clear lagoons winding round almost every bend of the stream;
the soil was also much better, having more the appearance of
fertility than any we had seen for some time. About one and a half
or two miles from the river a thick cypress brush bordered the low
lands, and was of course free from floods. The small dwarf box-tree
still, however, continued to be the prevailing wood, and covered,
as usual, the more wet and boggy portions of the low land. The
north-west side appeared to be higher, and the banks, as much at
least as we could see of them, seemed of better soil. A large
native's canoe having been found hauled tip near to the spot on
which we stopped, appearing to me sufficiently strong to be capable
of transporting ourselves and baggage to the opposite side of the
river, I determined to make trial of it for that purpose, and if
found practicable to cross at once, rather than wait the chance of
the waters falling sufficiently to enable us to construct a bridge,
where, in the event of failing in that design, no friendly canoe
might be at hand to assist us.</p>
<p>The waters in the stream had not fallen at all, and were about
four or five feet from the banks, continuing to run with great
rapidity. The first lake seen yesterday was named the Regent's
Lake, in honour of His Royal Highness the Prince Regent.</p>
<p>A superb scarlet flower, named kennedia speciosa, was found on
the shore of the first named lake. The course of the river this day
was north-east, and our distance five miles and a half, although we
had travelled upwards of eight and three-quarters.</p>
<p>July 27.�As soon as it was light, our little canoe was
launched; but our hopes and expectations had been too sanguine as
to her capability: sufficiently strong and buoyant to contain one
person, more was too much for her; I therefore of necessity
abandoned the design, and at half-past nine o'clock again proceeded
up the strewn. The fresh did not in the least diminish, but I
thought rather rose than fell. A line which had last night been
thrown into the stream, with little hope or expectation of catching
any thing, was found, when taken up this morning, to have hooked a
very fine fish. Since the flood we had almost ceased to think of
fish, as we never had the least success in our trials.</p>
<p>The river, as we had conjectured it would, trended this day
again to the north-east. The country passed over was low and nearly
level. The points and immediate banks were deeply flooded, forming
extensive morasses, and there were generally between them and the
drier and more elevated land deep serpentine lagoons, the water in
which was clear and transparent, it having been apparently a long
time since that of the river had filled them. The back land was a
red sandy loam, very light, covered with acacia bushes, spear-wood,
and small cypresses; the only herbage, a coarse tea-grass; and yet
I do not think the kind of soil which appears to be the universal
one upon the drier lands, can be strictly called barren: I have
seen apparently much worse soils in a state of cultivation. We
crossed one or two large plains, clear of wood and even bushes; the
soil a stiff tenacious clay, which, though not flooded by the
river, retains all the water that falls upon it, there being no
descent or fall by which it can be conveyed to its natural drain,
the river. These plains were now dry and hard, and having been
lately burnt, the coarse natural herbage springing up fresh, gave
them a pleasing green appearance. One or two beautiful new shrubs
in seed and flower were found to-day, to the great satisfaction of
the botanists, who had not lately made many very splendid or
valuable additions to their collections.</p>
<p>A party of natives was seen on the opposite side of the river,
consisting of one man, two lads, and two women; they disappeared as
soon as they observed us.</p>
<p>The flood had swollen the stream to a considerable breadth; it
was at least sixty feet wide at the spot where we stopped, and was
about six feet below the banks.</p>
<p>July 28.�The waters in the stream continue stationary.
There must have been heavy rains to the eastward, to maintain at
this height such a body of water. As to the rains that fall
westward of the Blue Mountains, I am clearly of opinion, that they
are in no way auxiliary in forming this stream. The soil, the
general level surface, without a single water-course north or
south, prove that all the waters which fall are quickly absorbed;
and I think it very probable that rain falls here extremely seldom,
and never simultaneously with the rain of the eastern coast and
mountains.</p>
<p>The day was full of cross accidents, and ended in the separation
of the expedition for the first time. The river turned suddenly
north, whilst extensive swamps ran out from it to the south-east,
backed by thick scrubby land, which we afterwards found, having
taken another sudden bend into the north-west, to be at a
considerable distance, and which we had some difficulty in finding
at all, the smaller plains being separated from the larger one by
lagoons, edged with trees similar to those on the banks of the
river.</p>
<p>Not having been able to find the rest of my companions this
evening, I halted with three men on the spot where we reached the
river, firing muskets, that if any of the missing party were near,
they might be enabled to join us in the morning.</p>
<p>The bendings of the river were singularly remarkable, trending
suddenly from south-east by east to north-north-west, and then back
to the north and north-east; I mean the principal bending in the
general course, for the smaller ones were as usual innumerable.</p>
<p>Of the swamps, which in places, extended from eight to ten miles
from the river south-east and south, some parts were dry and others
under water; and there were occasionally large lagoons covered with
innumerable wild fowl of various descriptions. Great numbers of
native companions, bustards, and emus, were seen on the plains,
Which, at the termination of our day's journey, were of a better
and drier description than usual. The north-east hills bounding
them were low, thinly studded with trees, and although rocky on the
summits, were covered with green tea-grass. The flood in the river
was very high, but from the appearance of the banks, which were
about five feet from the water, I did not think it had risen much
in the course of the day.</p>
<p>July 29.�At day-light sent a man on horseback to search
for our missing companions up the river, as we thought we had heard
a musquet in that direction in reply to one of ours. The man
shortly returned, having met with two men whom I had seen yesterday
looking for their horses; they had been joined by Mr. Cunningham,
and had encamped about half a mile higher up the stream than
ourselves: of Mr. Evans's party, consisting besides himself of five
men, they had heard or seen nothing, nor had they fallen in with
any of their marks. At half-past eight o'clock I proceeded with the
horses up the river to join the two men, expecting also that Mr.
Evans would certainly return downwards when he found that we did
not join him. It was twelve o'clock before we found him, and we
then proceeded up the river, whilst one man and myself went to a
clear hill in the range of Mount Byng, and from which we expected a
good prospect. We passed over a large plain, washed by the river;
the soil, a stiff red clayey loam, long parched by drought; the
sides of the hill light red sandy loam. Small blue gum-trees, box,
cypress, and a multitude of acacia shrubs of various species, were
the usual productions of the drier and more elevated grounds.</p>
<p>Our expectations of an extensive prospect from the top of the
hill were not disappointed: we had a distinct view round the
compass. The river wound close under the foot of the hill, and
trending to the south-east through low marshy grounds covered with
atriplex bushes and the acacia pendula, evidently and distinctly
showed that it originated in the separated branches of the Lachlan,
which it is probable united fifteen or twenty miles below Mount
Cunningham, forming the present stream. The north-east side of the
river was equally low and marshy. All the points which had been set
at Mount Cunningham were distinctly recognised, and bearings being
now taken to them, served to correct and prove the survey. The
bearings taken from this hill, named Piper's Hill, were as follows
by the theodolite:</p>
<pre>Mount Cunningham               E.  9 deg. 20 min. S.
Mount Meyrick                  S. 67      10      E.
Mount Maude                    S. 62       0      E.
Table Hill                     S.  4      30      E.
Line of Mount Byng,
  called Watson Taylor's range E.  7       0      W.
Mount Granard                  N. 79       0      W.
Mount Barrer                   N. 68       0      W.
     about the same distance as Mount Granard.
Extreme of a high range from N. 59� W., to N. 24� W.;
     nearest extreme distance about thirty miles, westward 45.
Extremes of another range from N. 10. W., to N. 2. W.,
     about twelve miles long; another range, N. 3. E. to N. 50� E
Hurd's Peak, N. 72. E.; a mount north of it (Mount Hawkins),
     N. 71. 15. E.; a distant one, N. 86� E (Mount Riley).
Low ranges in N. 44. E., N. 35. E. and N. 26� E.,
     all the intermediate spaces being low level land.
</pre>
<p>On descending, we waited on the stream till the arrival of Mr.
Evans, about half-past three o'clock, when we halted.</p>
<p>It was determined that as we had now ascertained the course of
the Lachlan, from the depot to its termination, any farther trace
of it, running as it did from the south-east, would take us
materially out of our purposed course to Bathurst, without
answering any good purpose, at the same time that we should
entangle ourselves in the mushy grounds which had been seen both
from Mount Cunningham, Farewell Hill, and our present station; and
that therefore we should immediately proceed to construct a raft on
which we might transport our provisions and baggage across the
river, afterwards taking such a course as we deemed most likely to
bring us to the Macquarie river, and so keep along its banks to
Bathurst. This work, and the task of getting the baggage over, will
take two days to accomplish.</p>
<p>The stream where we stopped was about four feet from the banks,
running with much rapidity; and I think the flood in it has rather
increased than abated.</p>
<p>Almost directly under the hill near our halting-place, we saw a
tumulus, which was apparently of recent construction (within a year
at most). It would seem that some person of consideration among the
natives had been buried in it, from the exterior marks of a form
which had certainly been observed in the construction of the tomb
and surrounding seats. The form of the whole was semicircular.
Three rows of seats occupied one half, the grave and an outer row
of seats the other; the seats formed segments of circles of fifty,
forty-five, and forty feet each, and were formed by the soil being
trenched up from between them. The centre part of the grave was
about five feet high, and about nine long, forming an oblong
pointed cone.</p>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="image-7-2" id="image-7-2"></a><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0010.jpg"></p>
<p class="caption">The Grave of a Native of Australia</p>
<p>I hope I shall not be considered as either wantonly disturbing
the remains of the dead, or needlessly violating the religious
rites of an harmless people, in having caused the tomb to be
opened, that we might examine its interior construction. The whole
outward form and appearance of the place was so totally different
from that of any custom or ceremony in use by the natives on the
eastern coast, where the body is merely covered with a piece of
bark and buried in a grave about four feet deep, that we were
induced to think that the manner of interring the body might also
be different. On removing the soil from one end of the tumulus, and
about two feet beneath the solid surface of the ground, we came to
three or four layers of wood, lying across the grave, serving as an
arch to bear the weight of the earthy cone or tomb above. On
removing one end of those layers, sheet after sheet of dry bark was
taken out, then dry grass and leaves in a perfect state of
preservation, the wet or damp having apparently never penetrated
even to the first covering of wood. We were obliged to suspend our
operation for the night, as the corpse became extremely offensive
to the smell, resolving to remove on the morrow all the earth from
the top of the grave, and expose it for some time to the external
air before we searched farther.</p>
<p>July 30.�Employed in preparing dead cypress-trees for the
timber of the raft. The rain continued throughout the day without
intermission. and prevented us from making much progress with it.
This morning we removed all the earth from the tomb and grave, and
found the body deposited about four feet deep in an oval grave,
four feet long and from eighteen inches to two feet wide. The feet
were bent quite up to the head, the arms having been placed between
the thighs. The face was downwards, the body being placed east and
west, the head to the east.<sup>[*]</sup></p>
<p class="footnote">[* "Nay, Cadwal, we must lay his head to the
east; my father has a reason for it."<i>�Cymbeline</i>.].</p>
<p>It had been very carefully wrapped in a great number of oppossum
skins, the head bound round with the net usually worn by the
natives, and also the girdle: it appeared after being enclosed in
those skins to have been placed in a larger net, and then deposited
in the manner before mentioned. The bones and head showed that they
were the remains of a powerful tall man. The hair on the head was
perfect, being long and black; the under part of the body was not
totally decayed, giving us reason to think that he could not have
been interred above six or eight months. Judging from his hair and
teeth, he might have been between thirty and forty years of age: to
the west and north of the grave were two cypress-trees distant
between fifty and sixty feet; the sides towards the tomb were
barked, and curious characters deeply cut upon them, in a manner
which, considering the tools they possess, must have been a work of
great labour and time. Having satisfied our curiosity, the whole
was carefully re-interred, and restored as near as possible to the
station in which it was found. The river fell in the course of the
day near two feet.</p>
<p>July 31.�Again employed in the construction of our raft,
which I hope will be completed sufficiently early to-morrow to
allow us time to get every thing over, and encamp on the other
side. The river fell about two feet in the course of the day, and
still continues to fall rapidly. The dogs were very successful,
killing three emus and a small kangaroo.</p>
<p>August 1.�Still employed on the raft, which will be ready
for use about one o'clock. The river fell a foot during the night,
but the trees that would have been useful to us are still under
water. The mean of the different observations made here gave the
following results.</p>
<pre>Mean lat.     33 deg. 04 min. 02 sec. S.
Comp. long.  146      31      50      E.
Variation      7      23      00      E.
</pre>
<p>The series of triangles by which the longitude from our
situation on the 17th of May has been computed, corresponds
precisely with the bearings taken from this station to the
principal objects forming their bases, and whose relative situation
on the chart had been fixed on the 17th of May; it was extremely
satisfactory to find in so extensive a survey that the angles
should thus so completely verify our situation.</p>
<p>Our raft was finished and launched by one o'clock; its
capability of carrying any burden we had to put upon it fully
answered our expectations; but here its utility ended, the violence
of the current caused by the high flood or the stream rendered all
our labour abortive, as no exertions we were capable of making
could enable us to get it across the stream. We had stretched a
line across the river by which to tow it over, but the men were not
able to withstand the force of the current acting on the body of
the raft; they let go their line and were carried about three
quarters of a mile down, when they were brought up by some trees
and got safe on shore, making the raft fast. The flood had been
slowly subsiding all day, giving us hopes that we should still be
enabled to fell some trees for a bridge, which was now our only
resource, as it was considered most advisable to use our utmost
efforts to cross here rather than go farther up the stream.</p>
<p>August 2.�Cloudy weather with heavy rain during the night,
which still continues. We commenced felling some trees, which we
were in hopes would answer our purpose, our anxiety to cross being
very great; as it is probable, from the long continued fine weather
we have experienced until lately, that the rainy season in this
part of the country may shortly set in, which would extremely
embarrass and distress us.</p>
<p>We were again disappointed in our hopes of crossing by means of
trees, as the flood which still continued swept them away as soon
as felled. I sent Byrne up the stream to endeavour to find a better
Place; but he returned in the afternoon without any success: he
reported that about three or four miles above the tent a branch
joined the stream, that he had travelled up it six or seven miles,
but not far enough to say where it quitted the main stream; the low
plains were several inches under water from the present rain; and
the ground that appeared the driest was the worst to travel on,
being a wet, loose, sandy bog. As the flood continued rapidly to
subside, we resolved upon again trying the raft to-morrow morning;
all hands were accordingly sent to tow her up, which was
accomplished by night.</p>
<p>August 3.�A bleak cold morning, with continued small rain.
At day-light we set to work with our raft: and after many trials
had the satisfaction to find that we should succeed in getting over
our baggage. Whilst Mr. Evans superintended this work, I rode up
the river with Byrne to see the branch: I found it but an
inconsiderable one, being merely a lagoon, except in times of flood
like the present, when it appears nearly as large as the parent
stream; it forms an island ten or twelve miles long, and from two
to four broad. The impossibility of our travelling up this side was
demonstrated, as well as the nature of these lower grounds or clear
plains, which retain all the water that falls upon them, the little
inequalities forming shallow pools. It was much better travelling
over them, than on a low ridge of hills a couple of miles from the
river on which I returned; the soil of the latter being so loose
and boggy as to render it difficult for the horses to proceed.</p>
<p>On my return I found considerable progress had been made in
transporting our luggage, and by four o'clock every thing was
safely crossed; our little bark was however completely water
logged, and at last would scarcely support a single man, though
when first launched, three or four might venture in her with
safety.</p>
<p>As I think the state of the seasons in New South Wales may serve
to explain, at least partially, why there are no running streams in
the western parts of it, it may be worth while to make some little
inquiry into that subject. It appears to me that it can never rain
simultaneously westward of the Blue Mountains and on the coast, for
these reasons: first, That the Lachlan and Macquarie Rivers, being
the sole channels by which the waters falling on the Blue Mountain
range are conveyed westward to the low-lands, are always flooded in
times of great rains in those mountains and on the coast; secondly,
that the winter, that is to say, the period between March and
August, is the time when the rains are most to be expected, and
have most generally fallen on the east coast, and which so falling
would naturally cause a flood in the streams above mentioned;
thirdly, that in the summer season, or from September to February,
which is certainly the driest period of the year, the rains fall
westward of the Blue Mountains; but falling upon flat sandy land
without any watercourses, do not in the smallest degree add to the
waters of the Lachlan or Macquarie, which are then consequently in
a state nearly if not entirely stagnant. It is at this season,
therefore, that these streams are visited by the natives, as they
are then enabled to procure the shell and other fish which abound
in them. The tracks and impressions made by the feet of the natives
were certainly made when the ground was very soft and marshy,
whilst their guneahs were merely the branches of trees, and erected
in places which we found to be swamps, but which in summer would,
in comparison with the plains, be dry ground, the waters from them
being drained off into the river.</p>
<p>The Blue Mountain range is by far the highest in New South
Wales; the ranges westerly, though high when viewed from the low
grounds from which they rise, cannot in any respect be compared
with them.</p>
<p>In the summer, the north-east and south-east winds coming from
the sea are forced over these mountains, and the vapours with which
they are charged are attracted by the lower ranges westerly, and
converted into rain. In the winter, the prevailing winds on the
coast and inland, as is evident from the trees on the tops of the
hills, are from south-west to north-west. In the winter, these
westerly winds blowing over a vast extent of country, and coming
with great violence on the Blue Mountains, confine those clouds and
vapours which would occasion rain, to the vicinity of the coast,
and the eastern side of the mountains. A wet summer on the east
coast would occasion a flood in the Lachlan at that season; and
should the rains then be attended with easterly winds, causing rain
on the western side also, the whole low country must be under water
for a double reason. This is a circumstance which, I think, could
seldom happen, otherwise the consequence to the miserable natives
must be dreadful.</p>
<p>It may be remembered that for nearly two years (viz. 1814 and
1815), scarcely a drop of rain fell on the east coast of New South
Wales; and when the country about Bathurst was first visited, it
bore marks of being similarly affected by drought. The last summer
was a very wet one on the east coast; at the depot on the Lachlan,
during that period when the rains were heaviest (in February), the
people enjoyed the finest weather, at the same time the river was
constantly flooded, sometimes rising to a great height in the most
sudden manner.</p>
<p>Since the present expedition has been out it has generally
enjoyed dry, clear weather, otherwise we could not have travelled.
Our meteorological journal will, when compared with one kept at
Sydney, throw farther light upon this subject; and I merely hazard
the above ideas as hints for a more general and extended view of
the natural causes which seem to govern the seasons in this truly
singular country.</p>
<p>Another proof (if more were wanting) that the river is only
periodically full and flowing, I think may be derived from the
numberless windings of the stream, setting aside the general
course. If the water was always running, it would doubtless have
forced a straighter channel through the soft, loose, sandy, loamy
country through which it flows; it being also remembered that there
is not a single stone or rock to be found along the whole banks of
the river: the few low rocky hills that terminate upon it, either
have a narrow slip of soft land between their base and the river,
or the country is flat to a considerable distance on the opposite
shore. Its windings and sudden bends are so remarkable, that I am
sure I under estimate it, when I consider that on a straight line
of ten miles from point to point, the water passes over twenty-five
miles; in many places, from thirty to thirty-five would be within
the truth.</p>
<p>The animals differing from those in the neighbourhood of
Bathurst are but few: the principal is a new species of red
kangaroo; a smaller species of the same, having a head delicately
formed, called by us the rabbit-kangaroo. Two other birds besides
the pigeon and cockatoo beforementioned may be noticed: we suppose
them to be both birds of night, being only heard at that time;
neither of them was seen: one was remarkable for exactly imitating
the calls of the natives, the other the short sharp bark of the
native dog, insomuch that our dogs were constantly deceived by the
noise.</p>
<p>August 4.�Proceeded to the north-east by east, intending
to keep that course for two or three days, to clear us of the low
grounds north of the Lachlan, before we bent more easterly for
Bathurst; the above course would also carry us so far northward, as
to ensure our falling in with the Macquarie at a considerable
distance from the settlement, and also enable us to discover if any
similar streams had their source westerly of the high range from
whence the coal river derives its source, as we shall then be some
miles north of that port.</p>
<p>Our route lay through a low wet country for the first eight or
ten miles, the flats covered with the acacia pendula; the last
three miles were rather more elevated: the soil in general a loose,
red, sandy loam, with small cypress, box, and acacia trees; a few
acres in patches had been burned, occasionally relieving the eye
from the otherwise barren scrubby appearance of the country. We
passed through two or three small eucalyptus scrubs, and upon
getting out of one, having gone thirteen miles and a quarter, we
fortunately happened to fall in with a native well, containing a
few gallons of water sufficient for our own supply; whilst the open
level land which the scrub led to having been burnt, we hoped would
afford succulent herbage sufficient for the horses, and prevent
them from suffering from the want of water. Our course was N. 69 E.
thirteen miles.</p>
<p>August 5.�The water for our breakfast drained our little
well to the dregs. Hoping that we should be more fortunate in this
day's route, at half past eight o'clock we again set forward, on
the same point as yesterday.</p>
<p>The first four miles of our course led through one of those
dreadful scrubs of eucalyptus dumosa, and prickly grass, which we
had often before experienced; it was on rather an elevated plain,
and, exclusive of the difficulty of forcing a passage through it,
was extremely boggy and distressing to the horses. After passing
through it, the country for five or six miles farther was more
open, the same elevated plain or level still continuing, being
thinly studded with box and cypress trees, with abundance of acacia
and other shrubs: the soil a loose, red, sandy loam. At the tenth
mile we providentially found a small muddy hole of water which, bad
as it was, refreshed both men and horses extremely; fearing, from
the appearance of the country, that we should not find any water
farther on, we filled our small keg, containing nearly three
gallons, which would at all events free us from absolute want. We
went four miles farther through the same desert country, when
evening drawing on, and the small trees and shrubs becoming
thicker, we thought it best to stop before we again encountered an
eucalyptus brush; which not affording the smallest fodder for the
horses, would, added to the want of water, render them in all
probability unable to take either us or themselves out of the
desert in which we were.</p>
<p>The spot we halted on afforded some dry tea-grass and a few
syngeneceous shrubs; and praying for a heavy dew to moisten them,
we hoped the animals would not on the whole fare much worse than
ourselves.</p>
<p>The rain which had fallen while we were on the river was not
perceptible here; indeed I think sufficient to deluge any other
country must fall, before it is seen on the surface of such a soil
as prevails in this part of New South Wales. A little rain renders
it however so soft and slimy as to make it difficult to travel
over; and I should conjecture, from the milky whiteness of the
water in the holes we have seen, that it rests on a substratum of
white clay three or four feet below the surface; the water holes at
least had that bottom, although their margins were of the red,
sandy loam before mentioned.</p>
<p>An accident happened to the vessel containing the mercury of the
artificial horizon, by which the greater part was lost, leaving
scarcely sufficient for use. It had been a matter of surprise to me
that such a misfortune had not occurred sooner, the box containing
the instruments, etc., being so shaken by the horse forcing his way
through the scrubs, that I considered myself extremely fortunate
not to have been deprived of the use of them long before. To carry
barometers, and other delicately constructed mathematical
instruments, safely through such a journey as the present is
impossible. Our course made good was N. 68 E., distance thirteen
miles and a half. The evening fine and clear.</p>
<p>August 6.�Proceeded on our course, which led us for nine
or ten miles through what might be termed an open forest country,
with respect to the timber growing on it, but it was overrun with
mimosa and acacia bushes, many of which were coming into flower,
relieving in some measure the sombre foliage of the cypress and box
trees which were scattered among them: it was rather an elevated
tract that we travelled through, with such gentle rises and
descents as to be almost imperceptible from a level surface. I
ascended a hill about three miles north of the road, but could see
nothing remarkable in any direction, the whole appearing
irregularly broken into low hills and valleys, thickly clothed with
small trees and bushes. At the eighth mile we came upon a small
waterhole, which our poor horses soon emptied; again at the tenth
mile, just at the commencement of a very broken stony range, we
also found a few gallons of water, which the horses also enjoyed,
it being much too muddy for our use; and besides, we had hopes that
after passing the range of hills in which we were about to enter,
we should find water on the other side. The range continued in
short broken hills for upwards of three miles and a half, and led
through such a country as distressed both men and horses
exceedingly: the surface was covered with small quartz stones,
without herbage of any kind. The box and cypress trees disappeared,
and their place was supplied by a numerous species of iron bark,
between which the acacia, mimosa, and a new prickly acacia rendered
it almost impossible to force a passage: after enduring this for
upwards of three miles and a half, we began to descend, by keeping
a more easterly course; but before we could come into a better
country, either for grass or water, we were obliged to halt for the
night, being too much fatigued to proceed farther.</p>
<p>Our search after water was not attended with success, but the
ground being extremely boggy, we were in hopes of procuring a
little by digging. Our spade, which had so unfortunately been left
at Bathurst, would now have been of the most essential service, but
the carpenter's adze proved a useful substitute. Choosing a place
which seemed most likely to have received the drainings of the
hills, and on which a little rain-water still remained, we dug a
tolerably good well, and in a few hours were rewarded by obtaining
near a quart of thick muddy water per man, which by boiling,
skimming, and straining, was rendered palatable to persons who must
otherwise have gone without their dinner or breakfast the next
morning, it being impossible to eat either our bread or pork
without something to quench our thirst.</p>
<p>The soil of the country passed over was of the same red, sandy
description as on former days; the hills were covered with small
pieces of broken white quartz, and occasionally a large granite
rock showed itself from beneath the surface. The botanical
productions of the hills seemed also to undergo a considerable
change, indicating, as we would fain hope, that a better country is
not far off. Several new plants were acquired today, some of which
were very beautiful. Our course made good was N. 71. E., distance
thirteen miles and a half.</p>
<p>August 7.�The horses suffered much from want of food and
water; but it is absolutely necessary to proceed and get into a
better country with all the expedition which we are capable of
using, and which the nature of this country will allow. It is some
consolation to us that the horses are but lightly loaded, by reason
of our not being now encumbered with much provisions, and are
consequently enabled to travel farther and better. At half past
eight o'clock we again set forward, and for four miles and a
quarter continued to pass through the same thick, barren country as
yesterday, the ground being absolutely covered with acacia of
various species, some extremely beautiful; after which the country
became more open; the grass had been burnt, and the marks of the
mogo or stone hatchet on the trees, made by the wandering natives
of these deserts in search of food, gave us renewed hopes of soon
coming to water. A rose-hill parrot was seen for the first time for
many months, and we were farther fortunate in killing a fine
kangaroo. The country seemed to improve as we advanced, and at the
ninth mile, as we had been gradually ascending, we were gratified
by an open prospect to the eastward, which showed low gentle hills
and valleys thinly studded with trees. The broom-grass, now dead,
gave them a white appearance, and, contrasted with the acacia in
full flower, and the darker foliage of the trees, gave the whole
the most pleasing and varied aspect. To the north-west round to the
north, the country was nearly the same; but from north to
north-east by east, it was more broken into low barren hills; the
tops and sides covered with iron bark, and cypress growing among
the interstices of the granite rocks. We had however seen no water,
but there was something in the aspect of the whole country that
flattered our hopes of finding it in some of the valleys that lay
in our course; nor were we disappointed: after going rather more
than four miles farther, through a very open country, thickly
covered with broom-grass (killed by the frost), we ascended a rocky
hill of moderate elevation, connected with others lying east and
west: opposite to us was a low rocky range, the summits of which
were clothed with iron bark and casuarina trees. We saw from this
hill Mount Melville bearing N. 175., Mount Cunningham N. 189�.,
Mount Maude N. 192., a round mount N. 218., named Mount Riley, a
gap in a range N. 283., distance about thirty miles: descending
into the valley we found plenty of water, to our great relief, as
the horses were quite exhausted, and without this seasonable supply
would have been altogether unable to proceed farther. The grass in
the valley, although perished by the winter's frost, was very
tolerable, and the worn out state of the horses made me determine
to remain here to-morrow, to recruit them a little before we
proceeded farther.</p>
<p>The country we have passed through this day afforded some of the
most beautiful specimens of acacia which we had yet seen, at the
same time that they were quite new in the species. The soil however
was still of the same description, red and sandy, but for the last
five or six miles more firm and compact; many of the plants were
recognized as having been originally seen in the neighbourhood of
the Macquarie River, and not since: this, with the more generally
open appearance of the country, gave us hopes that in a few days we
should be fortunate enough to fall in with that stream, which would
free us from any farther apprehensions of suffering from want of
water; for in that event it is my intention to keep in its
immediate vicinity until our arrival at Bathurst. Our course made
good was N. 71. E., distance thirteen miles and a quarter.</p>
<p>August 8.�Made the usual observations to ascertain our
situation, the result of which placed us in lat. 32. 47. 58. S.,
long. 147. 23. E., and the variation of the needle 5. 20. E. The
valley in which we encamped is enclosed by forest hills on all
sides but the east, affording us plenty of water from what is, even
at this dry season, a perceptible stream. The grass however was
quite killed by the frost, and, although abundant, did not afford
such nourishment to the horses as their condition required,
insomuch that if we fall in with a part of the country that has
been burnt in the course of to-morrow's route, I shall give them a
day's rest.</p>
<p>Kangaroos of a very large size abound in every direction around
us: our dogs killed one weighing seventy or eighty pounds, which
proved a great and refreshing acquisition to us.</p>
<p>To the valley I gave the name of Emmeline's Valley, and the hill
from which we corrected our survey with Mount Melville and Mount
Cunningham, Macnamara's Hill. The day was clear and mild, and in
the course of it some new and fine plants were procured.</p>
<p>August 9.�The morning fine and pleasant. At half past
eight we left the valley, intending still to keep our course north
of east, as the most likely point on which to make the Macquarie
River, from which, judging by the botanical productions of that
stream, we cannot be very far.</p>
<p>For three or four miles the country was tolerably open and good,
being clothed with luxuriant broom-grass. The cypress trees of good
dimensions; but no signs of water. For the remainder of our day's
journey, we passed over tracts of low barren ridges covered with
brush, and iron bark trees, and open valleys; the country was of
moderate elevation, but still we were not so fortunate as to find
any water, although every slope was searched. After having
travelled fourteen miles, during the latter part of which it rained
hard, I thought it most advisable to stop, as we had just passed
through a thick brush into a more open country, which would afford
the horses something to eat; the rain, which still continued,
relieving us from apprehension of their suffering much from want of
water. As to ourselves, we had taken our now usual precaution to
fill our keg, which gave us a pint each for our evening
consumption, and the same quantity for breakfast the next
morning.</p>
<p>In the course of the day the stirculia heterophylla was very
abundant, and we remarked that the cypresses were those originally
known as the callitris australis, and not of either of the other
two species, which were common in the neighbourhood of the Lachlan.
The brushes and scrubs were the only places that afforded any thing
to the researches of the botanists; the open lands being covered
with grass, and the shrubs being of acacias whose species had been
already often seen on this side of the Blue Mountain range.</p>
<p>August 10.�The morning proved clear and mild, and at nine
we again proceeded; as it was impossible to remain in a place that
did not afford us any water, and not good grass.</p>
<p>The country continued open forest land for about three miles,
the cypress and the bastard box being the prevailing timber; of the
former many were useful trees. We seemed neither ascending nor
descending, but travelling on somewhat of an elevated plain. The
broom-grass was very luxuriant, being four or five feet high; the
soil, as before, a light, red, sandy loam. To this open tract
succeeded three miles of barren brush land, covered with clumps of
small cypresses, iron barks, and acacias; the slightest elevation
or ascent was always stony, and in one or two places large masses
of granite rock were observed. We have hitherto seen no other signs
of this being an inhabited country than the marks usually made by
the natives in ascending the trees, and none of these were very
recent. It is probable that they may see us without discovering
themselves, as it is much more likely for us to pass unobserved the
little family of the wandering native, than that our party,
consisting of so many men and horses, not travelling together, but
sometimes separated a mile or two, should escape their sight,
quickened as it is by constant exercise in procuring their daily
food.</p>
<p>At the end of the brush we came upon a large chain of ponds, the
fall of water in which being north, induced us to believe that the
Macquarie could not be far distant: we proceeded down them about a
mile, when the situation offering us all we could wish for, we
halted for the night, it being past two o'clock, determining to
remain here to-morrow for the sake of the horses.</p>
<p>The country on the east side of this chain of ponds was again an
open forest as far as we could see in that direction; which however
was not very far, as we were nearly on a level. I rode down the
ponds Six or seven miles, hoping to fall in with their junction
with the river. Two or three miles from our halting-place the
ground became very scrubby, and was much over-run with brush and
small pines; there were marks of flood in the watercourse of the
ponds, from eight to ten feet high. I saw several shags, ducks,
herons, cranes, and other birds that frequent low or watery
situations, but the night coming on obliged me to return.</p>
<p>August 11.�Along the banks of these ponds, several
transitory encampments of the natives were found, but none that had
been inhabited within these four or six months; by all of them were
found abundance of the pearl muscle-shell so common on the Lachlan.
The soil, as far as we examined round our tents, east of the ponds,
was a good sandy loam. The timber very open, and if the country had
been divested of the numerous acacia bushes with which the face of
it was covered, it would be impossible to wish for land more
lightly timbered: the grass anthistiria was very luxuriant. The
ponds appear to have not been flooded for a very considerable time,
the water in many being of a milky whiteness, and the dry channels
are overrun with reeds and grass. These ponds were called
Coysgaine's Ponds, and by our observations the tent was in lat. 32.
44. 29. S., long. 147. 46. 30. E., mean variation 7. 18. E.</p>
<p>August 12.�Proceeded on our course, which, as I hoped and
expected we were not far from the Macquarie River, was altered to
north-east, for the purpose of joining it lower down than our
former course would have done; being anxious to know as much of the
country in the vicinity of the river as our time and circumstances
would permit. An open forest country with tolerably good soil
continued for nearly five miles, when we suddenly came upon a large
swampy plain surrounded by the acacia pendula. Water was still
remaining on several parts of it, and we had no doubt from its
whole appearance that it would lead immediately to the river; from
the south-west edge of this plain (which was six or seven miles
round), we had a distant prospect of a very lofty mountainous range
to the eastward, named Harvey's Range; the north extreme of which
bore north, and the highest part N. 94. This range was by far the
highest we had seen westward of the Blue Mountains. and its
elevation could be very little if at all inferior. Crossing this
plain and pursuing our north-easterly course, we entered a poor
barren country covered with box trees, and low acacia shrubs; our
hope of meeting the river was however disappointed. We travelled
upwards of six miles through this box scrub, when coming to two or
three holes of good water I thought it advisable to halt, rather
than proceed a mile or two farther, which was the utmost we could
have done; and then in all probability, be obliged to halt at a
spot that would not afford us that necessary article.</p>
<p>The inclination of the loftier trees, particularly the cypress
trees, for these two or three days past, denoted the strength and
prevalence of the south-west and westerly winds: this is more
easily discernible from the tops of low ranges; the western side of
the tree being generally deprived of its branches, and the trunk
bent in a remark-able manner to the north-east. This inclination
and prevalence of the winds was not observed in any particular
degree westward of Mount Cunningham, and was most remarkable in
that elevated range of country lying between the depot on the
Lachlan and Bathurst; and which elevated tract continues with
little interruption to the western base of the Blue Mountain range,
on which there is not a single tree that does not denote prevalence
of the westerly wind.</p>
<p>August 13.�Again set forward, intending to keep a
north-easterly course through the day, when if we do not fall in
with the river, our future course will be directed more easterly;
as we shall be then full seventy miles north of Bathurst, and north
of the parallel of Port Stephens. The country through which our
course led us to-day was of various description, the first three
miles and a half being indifferent forest land, open with respect
to timber, but much overrun with small acacia bushes; at the end of
this tract was a small stream of water in ponds, having its course
in the lofty range east-south-east of us, and which was not very
distant from us; this stream was named Allan Water, and its stream
was northerly. The next four miles north-east of this burn was
through a barren scrubby country, full of dry water-holes, and
thickly covered with the casuarina filifolia, box trees, and acacia
bushes. The cypress seemed to shun this kind of barren clayey soil,
and was more prevalent and flourishing on the open forest land
where the soil was light and loamy, and covered with luxuriant
broom-grass; this was the case for the last few miles, which
consisted of a very good tract of land. The cypresses here grew
into very handsome timber, and indeed were the only useful wood, as
the box tree was usually stunted and crooked. At the end of twelve
miles we found a small spring of water that supplied some ponds,
which also run northerly. The grass being pretty good, although
old, we determined to halt for the evening, as the horses were not
all arrived having had a considerable detour to make in crossing
Allan Water. On the banks of that burn many heaps of the pearl
muscle-shells were found, and marks of flood about eight feet. We
have for several days past seen no signs of any natives being
recently in this part of the country; the marks on the trees, which
were the only marks we saw, being several months old, and never
seen except in the vicinity of water. Marks of the natives'
tomahawks were to us certain signs of approaching water.</p>
<p>August 14.�We had now come from the river Lachlan upwards
of an hundred miles in a north-east direction, without being so
fortunate as to fall in with the Macquarie; we were also near
seventy miles north of Bathurst, and much about the same distance
west of it: it was therefore evident that the Macquarie must have
taken at least a north. north-west course from the place where it
was last seen; how much farther north it had gone, of course we
were ignorant: it is however probable, from the watercourses we
have lately passed leading northerly, that the above point would be
nearly the course which it has taken. To travel farther to the
north-east would lead us very far from our proper route to
Bathurst; farther indeed than we had provisions to enable us to
travel, having only from Saturday next enough for fourteen days at
a reduced allowance; and that time I calculated would be barely
sufficient to take us to Bathurst on a direct course, presuming no
local obstacles to arise. These considerations induced me to alter
our course to east, which however would be nearly at right angles
with that which we imagined the river to have taken, and would
therefore enable us to reach it perhaps as soon as on any other
course, as we could only infer its probable situation from the
nature of the country over which we travelled. At half past eight
o'clock, we again set forward on the above course (east): it led us
generally through a good open grazing country for about eight
miles, when it became more broken and hilly; these hills were all
covered with grass, their summits and sides rocky, with small
stones: the colour of the soil had been apparently getting darker
for some miles, and was now a light, hazel-coloured, sandy loam.
The small blue eucalyptus, so common in the neighbourhood of
Bathurst, again made its appearance, taking the place of the box
tree; iron and stringy barks of small size were also common on the
tops and sides of the hills: two Sydney or coast plants were also
seen. Between the eighth and ninth mile we ascended a small hill,
whence we had a distant view from the south round by the west to
north, taking in that tract of country over which we had passed.
Not a hill or eminence of any kind broke the dead level surface of
the country in those quarters; and the day was so clear, that had
any been within sixty or seventy miles they must have been seen.
From the east to the south was the lofty range before mentioned,
and now distant five or six miles: it was broken and rocky; iron
bark trees were however growing on the very summit. To the
north-east and north our view was not more than ten or eleven
miles, being broken into low grassy hills of pretty much the same
elevation with that on which we stood. The smoke of several
natives' fires were seen in the range to the eastward, and some to
the north-west. Proceeding about four miles farther to the eastward
among those hills, we halted in a pretty valley, having a small run
of water in it falling northerly. We had just pitched our tent when
hearing the noise of the stone-hatchet made by a native in climbing
a tree, we stole silently upon him, and surprised him just as he
was about to descend: he did not perceive us until we were
immediately under the tree; his terror and astonishment were
extreme. We used every friendly motion in our power to induce him
to descend, but in vain: he kept calling loudly, as we supposed for
some of his companions to come to his assistance; in the mean time
he threw down to us the game he had procured (a ring-tailed
opossum), making signs for us to take it up: in a short time
another native came towards us, when the other descended from the
tree. They trembled excessively, and, if the expression may be
used, were absolutely <i>intoxicated</i> with fear, displayed in a
thousand antic motions, convulsive laughing, and singular motions
of the head. They were both youths not exceeding twenty years of
age, of good countenance and figure, but most horribly marked by
the skin and flesh being raised in long stripes all over the back
and body; some of those stripes were full three-quarters of an inch
deep, and were so close together that scarcely any of the original
skin was to be seen between them. The man who had joined us, had
three or four small opossums and a snake, which he laid upon the
ground, and offered us. We led them to our tent, where their
surprise at every thing they saw clearly showed that we were the
first white men they had met with; they had however either heard of
or seen tomahawks for upon giving one to one of them, he clasped it
to his breast and demonstrated the greatest pleasure. After
admiring it for some time they discovered the broad arrow, with
which it was marked on both sides, the impression of which exactly
resembles that made by the foot of the emu; it amused them
extremely, and they frequently pointed to it and the emu skins
which we had with us. All this time they were paying great
attention to the roasting of their opossums, and when they were
scarcely warm through, they opened them, and, taking out the fat of
the entrails, presented it to us as the choicest morsel; on our
declining to receive it they ate it themselves, and again covered
up the opossums in the hot ashes. When they were apparently well
done, they laid them, the snake, and the things we had presented
them with, on the ground, making signs that they wished to go;
which of course we allowed them to do, together with their little
store of provisions and such things as we were able to spare them.
The collection of words which we had made at the depot on the
Lachlan, we found of no use, as they did not understand a single
one. They had neither of them lost the upper front tooth, though
apparently men grown.</p>
<p>August 15.�We were somewhat disappointed in not seeing
anything more of our native acquaintances, as we hoped the
treatment and presents they had received would have induced them to
return to us with their companions, as they had endeavoured to make
us understand by signs they would. At eight we proceeded on an
easterly course, when a mile of gently rising ground brought us to
the edge of a fine valley, in which was a chain of ponds connected
by a small stream; alternate hills and valleys of the best
description of pasture land: the soil, a rich, light, sandy loam,
continued until we halted, at the end of eleven miles, in a
spacious, well-watered valley; where to our great surprise we found
distinct marks of cattle tracks: they were old, and made when the
ground was soft from rain, as appeared from the deep impression of
their feet. These cattle must have strayed from Bathurst, from
which place we were now distant in a direct line between eighty and
ninety miles. From several of the hills over which our route led
us, we had the most extensive and beautiful prospects; from thirty
to forty miles round, from the north to south, the country was
broken in irregular low hills thinly studded with small timber, and
covered with grass: the whole landscape within the compass of our
view was clear and open, resembling diversified pleasure grounds
irregularly laid out and planted. The animation of the whole
scenery was greatly increased by the smoke of the natives' fires
arising in every quarter, distinctly marking that we were in a
country which afforded them ample means of subsistence; far
different from the low deserts and morasses to the south-west.</p>
<p>The tops of the hills were generally stony (granite of different
degrees and qualities), but the broom-grass grew strongly and
abundantly in the interstices. We never descended a valley without
finding it well watered, and although the soil and character of the
country rendered it fit for all agricultural purposes, yet I think
from its general clearness from brush, or underwood of any kind,
that such tracts must be peculiarly adapted for sheep-grazing;
there being no shelter for native dogs, which are so destructive
and annoying in other more thickly wooded parts of the country. In
the fine valley where we pitched our tents, our dogs had some
excellent runs, and killed two large kangaroos; the clearness of
the country affording us a view of the chace from the beginning to
the end.</p>
<p>Some of the baggage horses, which were a mile or two behind the
others, came up to the tents, with nine natives, who had joined
them on the road: they were entirely unarmed, and there was but one
mogo, or stone hatchet, among them; we had reason to suppose that
their women and children were at no great distance, as they were
observed to hide themselves when the men were first seen. The
greater part of them had either seen or heard of white men, as they
were neither alarmed nor astonished at what they saw. I should
think that the loss of the front upper tooth is not common to every
tribe, as several of these men retained it, although others were
without it; the wearing a stick, or bone, through the cartilage of
the nose, appeared common to all of them. They remained about an
hour with us: we gave them the fore-quarter of a kangaroo, and
putting our remaining pork into a bag, we distributed the iron
hoops of the keg in small pieces among them; these were received
with as much pleasure as an European would have felt at being
presented with the like quantity of gold. It was impossible
distinctly to make out anything that they wished to express, by
reason of the variety of their gestures; but their frequent
pointing to the south-east (the direction of Bathurst), induced us
to believe that they thought we were going there, a conjecture
which we did all in our power to confirm. Wishing, if possible, to
learn if they knew anything of the river, a fishing hook was given
to one of them, but he did not seem to understand the use of it
until Mr. Evans drew the resemblance of a fish, and made signs that
the hook was to take it, when they immediately understood him, and
pointing to the east made signs that the fish were there; but our
endeavours to learn the distance of the river were wholly
fruitless. They appeared a harmless, inoffensive race of people,
extremely cautious of giving offence, and never touching anything
until they had first by signs obtained permission. Many of the
words collected at the depot were known to them, others were not;
but ignorant as we of course were of each other's meaning, we found
it a vain task to endeavour to learn their names of things. To
collect a vocabulary of words in a strange language, it is in some
measure necessary that the party who is to afford the knowledge
should understand for what purpose he is questioned, which it was
impossible to make these simple creatures comprehend. They left us
about an hour before sunset, highly gratified with their
adventure.</p>
<p>August 16.�Quitted the valley (which was named Mary's
Valley) on our eastern course, anxiously hoping that we should
reach the river in the course of the day. We had heard last night
and this morning the screams of the white cockatoo, which we have
always looked upon as a certain sign of approaching water.</p>
<p>The same fine grazing tract of country continued over irregular
hills and valleys for about four miles, when ascending a high hill
(named Mount Johnston), a little upon our left, we had a very
extensive view to the north-east and east. In the former quarter, a
beautiful range of hills stretching north and south, bounded at a
distance of about eight miles the fine extensive valley before us;
under those hills we would fain have found the Macquarie, fancying
that we could distinguish the haze arising from water. To the
northward, two hills skirted the valley at a distance of six or
seven miles, which might be about the medium width of it from north
to south, in which quarter a rocky range, clothed with pines and
iron-bark, prevented us from seeing to any great distance; to the
east and south-east, the same low irregular country appeared,
thinly covered with trees and grass.</p>
<p>Desirous of ascertaining if our conjectures were well founded in
respect to the river, we altered our course, which was east, to
north-east, keeping down the south side of the valley or plain,
which we had seen from Mount Johnston. A finer or more fertile
country than that we passed through for about four miles and a half
cannot be imagined: the soil, a light brown, sandy loam, covered
with broom-grass from four to five feet high. After travelling the
above distance, we most unexpectedly came upon a stream, which from
its high grassy banks and rocky bottom we were obliged to conclude
must be the river we were in search of; but so diminished in
magnitude that the motion of the water connecting the long chains
of reedy ponds, was so slow as scarcely to entitle it to the
appellation of a living stream. The whole country from where we
quitted the Lachlan to this spot had borne evident marks of long
continued drought, and in no part was it more apparent than in the
present stream which was so much smaller than it was at Bathurst,
even after the great drought in 1815, that after going up it three
or four miles, I began to entertain great doubts of its being the
same, hoping that it might be one of the channels which must convey
the waters from the high ranges of hills, lying nearly midway
between the Lachlan and the Macquarie Rivers.</p>
<p>Observing a fine and extensive flat on the opposite side of the
stream, which having been formerly burnt, was now covered with good
grass, we crossed over at a place not ankle deep, and about six or
eight feet wide, over a bottom of sand and stone, and halted for
the evening; intending also to remain the ensuing day, to refresh
the horses, as they had performed an excellent and continued week's
work, and much required it.</p>
<p>On reaching the present stream numerous cattle tracks were
observed, and although not very recent, I do not think they were
more than four or six months old, since the marks of young cattle
were among them; it is probable they were those that have been
missing for a length of time from the government herds at Cox's
River, and are now straying wild through this beautiful country,
abounding in every thing that can tempt them to remain here.</p>
<p>The plants on the banks and in the stream were precisely similar
to those on the Macquarie in the vicinity of Bathurst; but I have
observed that no certain conclusions can be drawn from a similarity
between the botanical productions of two places, a truth which has
been exemplified more than once in the course of this Journal.</p>
<p>August 17.�During the whole day the weather did not permit
me to make the usual observations; it was not however uselessly
passed, as the country was examined several miles to the north-east
and east of our tents, and every report concurred as to the general
beauty and goodness of the tracts passed over. Mr. Evans and myself
ascended a high grassy hill about a mile and a half north of the
tent, and the prospect round was highly pleasing. The general
appearance of the country southerly made me still adhere to the
opinion I entertained that the stream along which we were
travelling would prove to derive its source from a very lofty range
in that direction; whilst the Macquarie would be found still
farther to the eastward, in which quarter I must have deceived
myself greatly, if we do not find a stream superior to the present;
and my hopes in that respect are much strengthened when I consider
that we are not above fifty miles in a straight line from the spot
where Mr. Evans left the Macquarie, a strong and powerful stream,
and that too in a season as long and even longer dry than the
present one. In these hopes and expectations I shall continue an
easterly course until nearly on the meridian of Bathurst, when they
must either be realized, or the negative indisputably established,
that there are no considerable rivers rising in the interior of New
South Wales. From the hill on which we stood, bearings were taken
to the most remarkable objects, which were but few; for the
country, as far as the eye could reach, was a continued series of
low grassy hills and valleys; the whole thinly covered with wood,
and in many places entirely bare of it. The hills to the southward
and south-west on the west side of the stream, and immediately
bordering on it, were rocky and irregular; a few cypresses were
growing on their sides and summits. We named the hill on which we
stood Mount Elizabeth, and the extensive flats or plains north of
it, and on the east side of the stream, McArthur's Plains.</p>
<p>The tracks of cattle were observed in various places on these
plains, some very recent, perhaps not a month old. A fish was also
caught, of the species common both to the Lachlan and the
Macquarie. The soil of the country round, is far as we had time to
examine it, was a rich, light, sandy loam, most abundantly covered
with long broom-grass: the rocks and stones on the hills were
granite of various qualities. Nothing was found new to the
botanists; in truth, this is not a country adapted to their
pursuits.</p>
<p>August 18.�In pursuance of the intention formed yesterday
of still continuing an easterly course, we again set forward at
half past eight o'clock.</p>
<p>The general description of country was nearly the same as that
which we passed over on preceding days; several pieces of limestone
were found, which proved of good quality. On going between three
and four miles, ascending a range of hills which lay directly
across our course, we had a prospect of a fine and spacious valley,
bounded to the east by low grassy hills; there was every appearance
of a watercourse being in it, but it was distant five or six miles,
and our access to it was rendered difficult by lofty rocky hills
forming deep and irregular glens, so narrow that I feared we should
not be able to follow their windings, the rocks rising in such vast
perpendicular shapes as seemingly to debar our passage. After some
little hesitation, we found a place down which the horses might
descend in safety. This being accomplished, we traversed the bottom
of the glen along all its windings for nearly three miles and a
half: a fine stream of pure water was running through it. Here,
doubtful of being able before dark to gain the valley we were in
search of we halted for the night. It is impossible to imagine a
more beautifully romantic glen than that in which we lay. There was
just level space on either side of the stream for the horses to
travel along, the rocks rising almost perpendicularly from it to a
towering height, covered with flowering acacia of various species,
whose bright yellow flowers were contrasted and mingled with the
more sombre foliage of the blue gum and cypress trees: several new
plants were also found, of beautiful descriptions.</p>
<p>The stream in the glen running north-easterly encouraged us to
hope that we should ultimately be rewarded by finding a
considerable stream in the valley, which was the cause of our
deviation from our more direct course to Bathurst. The glen which
was to afford us access to it, we named Glenfinlass: it might,
perhaps, be properly termed the glen of many windings, as it was
formed of several detached lofty hills; between each of which deep
ravines were formed, communicating in times of rain their waters to
this main one.</p>
<p>August 19.�Full of the hopes entertained yesterday, at
half past eight o'clock we pursued our course down Glenfinlass. A
mile and a half brought us into the valley which we had seen on our
first descending into the glen: imagination cannot fancy anything
more beautifully picturesque than the scene which burst upon us.
The breadth of the valley to the base of the opposite gently rising
hills was, between three and four miles, studded with fine trees,
upon a soil which for richness can nowhere he excelled; its extent
north and south we could not see: to the west it was bounded by the
lofty rocky ranges by which we had entered it; this was covered to
the summit with cypresses and acacia in full bloom: a few trees of
the sterculia heterophylla, with their bright green foliage, gave
additional beauty to the scene. In the centre of this charming
valley ran a strong and beautiful stream, its bright transparent
waters dashing over a gravelly bottom, intermingled with large
stones, forming at short intervals considerable pools, in which the
rays of the sun were reflected With a brilliancy equal to that of
the most polished mirror. I should have been well contented to have
found this to be the Macquarie River, and at first conceived it to
be so. Under this impression, I intended stopping upon its banks
for the remainder of the day, and then proceeding up the stream
southerly. Whilst we were waiting for the horses to come up we
crossed the stream, and wishing to see as much of the country on
its banks northerly, as possible, I proceeded down the stream, and
had scarcely rode a mile when I was no less astonished than
delighted to find that it joined a very fine river, coming from the
east-south-east from among the chain of low grassy hills, bounding
the east side of the valley in which we were. This then was
certainly the long sought Macquarie, the sight of which amply
repaid us for all our former disappointments. Different in every
respect from the Lachlan, it here formed a river equal to the
Hawkesbury at Windsor, and in many parts as wide as the Nepean at
Emu Plains. These noble streams were connected by rapids running
over a rocky and pebbly bottom, but not fordable, much resembling
the reaches and falls at the crossing place at Emuford, only
deeper: the water was bright, and transparent, and we were
fortunate enough to see it at a period when it was neither swelled
beyond its proper dimensions by mountain floods, nor contracted by
summer droughts. From its being at least four times larger than it
is at Bathurst, even in a favourable season, it must have received
great accessions of water from the mountains north-easterly; for
from the course it has run from Bathurst, and the number of streams
we have crossed all running to form it from the south and
south-west, I do not think it can receive many more from that
quarter between us and Bathurst, at least of sufficient strength to
have formed the present river.</p>
<p>Reduced as our provisions were, we could not resist the
temptation of halting in this beautiful country for a couple of
days, to allow us time to ascertain its precise situation, and to
ride down the banks of the river northerly as far as we could go
and return in one day. The banks of the river in our neighbourhood
were low and grassy, with a margin of gravel and pebble stones;
there were marks of flood to the height of about twelve feet, when
the river would still be confined within its secondary banks, and
not overflow the rich lands that border it. Its proper width in
times of flood would be from six to eight hundred feet, its present
and usual width is about two hundred feet. The blue gum trees in
the neighbourhood were extremely fine, whilst that species of
eucalyptus, which is vulgarly called the apple tree, and which we
had not seen since we quitted the eastern coast, again made its
appearance on the flats, and of large size; as was the casuarina
filifolia, growing here and there on its immediate banks.</p>
<p>The day throughout was as fine as could be imagined, and it was
spent with a more cheerful feeling than we had experienced since we
quitted the depot on the Lachlan. The river running through the
valley was named Bell's River, in compliment to Brevet Major Bell,
of the 48th Regiment; the valley Wellington Valley; and the stream
on which we halted on Sunday, Molle's Rivulet.</p>
<p>August 20.�The day proved as favourable as could be
wished, and the observations placed our situation in lat. 32. 32.
45. S., and our compared long. 148. 51. 30. E., the variation of
the needle being 8. 38. 38. E. A valuable discovery was made in the
course of the day by the men who were out with the dogs, the hills
bounding the east side of Wellington Vale being found of the purest
limestone, of precisely similar quality with that found at
Limestone Creek. We were never due north of that place, and it is
more than probable that the same stratum extends on the same
meridian through the country.</p>
<p>August 21.�At eight o'clock, accompanied by Mr. Evans and
Mr. Cunningham, set out on our intended excursion down the
Macquarie River. Crossing Bell's River in the valley, we came in a
mile to where the steep rocky hills forming the west side of the
vale advance their perpendicular cliffs directly over the river.
These hills we soon rounded, and entered the vale north of them: I
shall not in this place attempt to describe the rich and beautiful
country that opened to our view in every direction. Alternate fine
grazing hills, fertile flats and valleys, formed its general
outline; whilst the river, an object to us of peculiar interest,
was sometimes contracted to a width of from sixty to eighty feet
between rocky cliffs of vast perpendicular height, and again
expanded into noble and magnificent reaches of the width of at
least two hundred feet, washing some of the richest tracts of land
that can be found in any country; the banks were in those reaches
low and shelving, and covered with pebbles, whilst even at the
highest floods secondary banks restrained the river from doing the
smallest damage: these secondary banks might be from six to eight
hundred feet in width, and I think the highest marks of flood did
not exceed twenty feet perpendicular. The rapids were usually
formed by small stony islands, which. dividing the stream rendered
it shoaler in those places than in others, but they never extended
above one hundred yards, and were none of them fordable. Limestone
of the best quality and of various species abounded; and it
appeared to me to be as common as the other stone forming the
hills, which was a fine and hard granite. We passed through this
charming country for upwards of twelve miles, the course of the
river during that time being nearly north, and from appearances we
thought it must continue in that direction for a considerable
distance farther. A perpendicular limestone rock overhanging the
river terminated our excursion; adjoining to this rock (which was
called Hove's Rock, from its being covered with a beautiful new
species of hovia), a stratum of fine blue-slate was found. A little
lower down, the bank on the east side was formed of perpendicular
red earth cliffs at least sixty feet high, extending along the
reach nearly three quarters of a mile; this bank was named Red
Bank: a fine grassy hill thinly covered with wood rose eastward of
it.</p>
<p>The timber was unusually fine, consisting chiefly of very large
and straight blue guns; beautiful large casuarina trees were
occasionally growing at the very edge of the water. The tops and
sides of the rocky precipices on the west side of Wellington Vale
were clothed with cypress trees, which had all the appearance of
the pinus silvestris, that adorns the mountains and glens of
Scotland. It was nearly five o'clock before we returned to our
tent, highly gratified with our day's excursion.</p>
<p>Nothing can afford a stronger contrast than the two rivers,
Lachlan and Macquarie; different in their habit, their appearance,
and the sources from which they derive their waters, but above all
differing in the country bordering on them; the one constantly
receiving great accession of water from four streams, and as
liberally rendering fertile a great extent of country; whilst the
other, from its source to its termination, is constantly diffusing
and extenuating the waters it originally receives over low and
barren deserts, creating only wet flats and uninhabitable morasses,
and during its protracted and sinuous course is never indebted to a
single tributary stream. The contrast indeed presents a most
remarkable phenomenon in the natural history of the country, and
will furnish matter in other parts of this Journal, for such
conclusions as my observations have enabled me to form.</p>
<p>August 22.�Among the other agreeable consequences that
have resulted from discovering the river in this second Vale of
Tempe, may be enumerated, as not the least, the abundance of fish
and emus with which, we have been supplied; swans, and ducks, were
also within our reach, but we had no shot. Very large muscles were
found growing among the reeds along some of the reaches; many
exceeded six inches in length, and three and a half in breadth.
Traces of cattle were found in various places as low as Hove's
Rock, which are now doubtless straying through the country.</p>
<p>Our horses have recruited themselves exceedingly within the last
ten days, and being lightly laden, I have great hopes of being
enabled to reach Bathurst before our provisions are altogether
expended; we have now left but four pounds and a half of flour, and
the same quantity of pork per man; our chief dependence must be on
the success of our dogs for any additional supplies, and in such a
country as the present, we have no fear of being in want of
food.</p>
<p>We had scarcely laden our horses and began to proceed up the
river, when the rain recommenced, and continuing without
intermission, obliged us to halt after we had gone about six miles;
which we did upon a reach of the river, that for magnitude and
extent equals if not surpasses any in the Hawkesbury, and exceeds
that much admired one on the Nepean River, winding round Emu
Plains. The country on both sides was of the greatest possible
fertility, and beautifully diversified by hills and open valleys.
Timber is good, and in two places where the hills on this side
nearly closed on the river, immense quantities of fine limestone
were again found, the rocks being entirely composed of it. The
rapids were few and unimportant, and occasioned as usual by the
river dividing into two channels forming small islets. They did not
appear to me to impede in any manner the navigation of the river;
the open reaches had apparently depth to float the largest vessels,
and there was certainly breadth sufficient for that purpose.
Nothing in fact can be imagined grander or more beautiful than we
have hitherto found the river, and that too so near Bathurst that
no reasonable expectation could have been formed of finding it such
as we did. Many good specimens of agate forming on granite were
found on the hills, chiefly where the limestone appeared in the
largest and most continued stratum. We indulged ourselves in the
probable speculation, that where limestone was found in such
abundance as in this country, quarries of marble would also be
discovered not far beneath the surface, as is usual in other
countries most abounding in this useful stone. Fish and emus were
procured in great quantities in the course of the afternoon.</p>
<p>August 23.�The last allowance of our provisions was now
distributed, and at half past eight o'clock we proceeded up the
river, which this day might be said to come through a mountainous
country. Rocky points of hills frequently terminated on the river
and occasionally opened into fine valleys and flats: in every
valley a watercourse conveyed the waters from the back country to
the river. I think the north bank was most frequently the lower:
several small runs of water also fell in on that side. The hills,
uniformly stony and rocky as they were, were covered with good
grass to their summits. The scenery on the river was beautifully
picturesque, and more magnificent reaches cannot be found in any
river; these were interrupted in their uniform course by rapids,
which having a much greater fall than any we had seen lower down,
would materially impede the navigation of the river by boats
farther than this station, up to which point I conceive it
navigable. No falls had yet been seen that boats could not easily
pass over; but in seasons of greater drought than the present, some
difficulty might be experienced.</p>
<p>The travelling was excessively bad along the sides and points of
the hills; and as we had every reason to believe the country was
much lower back from the river, I determined to quit its immediate
banks, and endeavour to make a more direct course than we found it
possible to do in following its windings, which, even if it were
practicable, our provisions will not permit.</p>
<p>August 24.�A very thick fog arising from the river
prevented us from setting forward until nearly ten o'clock, till
when we could not see fifty yards in any direction. Taking the
earliest opportunity to quit the river, we passed through a
mountainous tract of country extremely irregular and stony, but
full of springs of water, and good grass. We found it impossible to
accomplish more than eight or nine miles, the tops of the hills
standing quite detached and unconnected into regular ranges. We
seemed ascending the ranges, which in some measure separate the
country farther westward from the river; as it was much lower in a
direction from south-south-west to north-west, and appeared to be
fine open grazing land. At four o'clock, we halted in a small
valley for the evening. Our course made good on a variety of
bearings was 8. 6. W., seven miles.</p>
<p>August 25.�We again set forward, hoping soon to clear
these lofty hills, among which we seemed to be entangled: four or
five miles, on various courses, through a very rugged, but grassy
country, freed us from the dividing range, as we found by the
streams all running westerly, and apparently joining the river in
Wellington Vale. Just before we descended what we considered the
principal range, we saw Mount Lachlan bearing south from this
point; and we were enabled for the remainder of the day to make a
direct course towards Bathurst, through a good open grazing country
of gentle hills and dales, abounding in beautiful rivulets, having
their rise in the mountains east of us, which bending round to the
west and north-west, and watering the finest districts in their
course, contribute their waters to the Macquarie.</p>
<p>The country now passed over was generally good, and although the
hills were stony, yet the soil upon them was equal to the flats or
valleys, and covered with grass. We saw no good timber, it
consisting chiefly of small box trees, thinly scattered over the
sides and tops of the hills. There was plenty of kangaroos and our
valuable dogs killed two fine ones.</p>
<p>Coarse gravel and small slate were the most common stones, but
the bottoms of the rivulets were composed of a species of black
jade. Quartz was very frequent.</p>
<p>Few traces of natives have been observed, either on the river,
or since we quitted it. The population of this country must be
extremely small: as the natives derive their chief support from
opossums, squirrels, and rats, which are known to frequent barren
scrubs and hollow trees, such neighbourhoods are unquestionably
frequented by them in preference to the open country and river
banks. It must be a mere accident that enables the natives to kill
either a kangaroo or emu: as to fish, they certainly are ignorant
of the manner of taking them by hook and line.</p>
<p>August 26.�At eight o'clock we proceeded on our course
towards Bathurst. The country throughout the day's journey was
extremely hilly, with steep descents into fine valleys, in every
one of which was a running stream. It appeared to me, that we were
pursuing a course which, intersecting the streams near their
sources, rendered our road much more irregular and difficult than
it would have been either a few miles farther westward, or even on
the immediate banks of the river, the line of which we several
times saw during the day. The country north-east of the river was
very elevated and broken. The tops and sides of even the most
mountainous parts were covered with grass, and thinly clothed with
wood.</p>
<p>Many of the valleys were composed of extremely rich soil: the
hills were also generally good land and covered with grass; though
there were occasionally barren stony summits, and ridges producing
nothing but iron and stringy bark trees of diminutive growth. These
tracts were however too inconsiderable in extent, to be considered
other than what ought naturally to be expected in such an irregular
tract as that which we travelled over.</p>
<p>Had not the appearance of the country round the Macquarie, where
we first reached it, fully accounted for its magnitude, the course
we have pursued since would satisfactorily have explained the
cause; it is in point of fact a country of running waters: on every
hill we found a spring, and in every valley a rivulet, either
flowing directly north-east to the river, or taking a course
westerly to join the river in Wellington Vale. Of the waters that
may fall into it from the north-east we were of course ignorant,
but the appearances of the country indicated that they were at
least as numerous as from the south-west.</p>
<p>After proceeding a few miles, we halted for the night in an
extensive valley, watered by a rivulet running through it directly
to the river, from which I think we were distant six or seven
miles.</p>
<p>August 27.�Nothing could be more delightful than the
climate and the temperature of the season.</p>
<p>At eight o'clock we took our road through a very rugged and
broken country. The glens were enclosed on either side by almost
perpendicular rocks, mostly slate of fine quality, mixed with
coarse granite. In these glens or defiles were fine running
streams. The declivity and steepness of the road delayed our
progress, in seeking for better paths for the horses; and after
riding a few miles we came to the edge of a very steep glen or
valley, at the point of junction of two large streams, the largest
coming from the south-west, the other from the north-west. Both
united formed a very powerful stream, rushing with great
impetuosity over a rocky bottom, with frequent falls or rapids. The
hills being on both sides too steep even for the men to descend in
safety, we were obliged to pursue the ridge of them up the
north-west river, until we found a place where we could descend and
cross, which we did about five o'clock in the afternoon with
considerable difficulty. So steep indeed was the side on which we
now were, that we could not find a level space sufficient to pitch
our tent upon. The rocks consisted chiefly of slate and coarse
granite intermixed. There appeared in each river to be more water
than usual; and marks of flood were visible at a height exceeding
eighteen feet.</p>
<p>Finding that we were entangled among the streams of the
Macquarie, I determined on the morrow to proceed by the mountains
dividing the north-west and south-west rivers; and if they should
lead me considerably westward before their junction, to cross the
south-west river, which, from its apparent direction and vicinity
to Bathurst, I considered to be the only stream of consequence
which we should find between our present station and that
place.</p>
<p>Rugged and uneven as the country generally was during this day's
journey, there was considerable intermixture of the good with the
barren; many portions consisting of excellent pasture land, and
even the rocky hills were divested of the appearance of being so
barren as they actually are, by being covered with shrubs and grass
intermingled among the box and small gum trees, that find support
between the interstices of the stones.</p>
<p>August 28.�At eight o'clock we proceeded on our journey,
and pursuing the ridge which separated the two streams, we found
that their general direction was from the southward, opening, as we
advanced, into fine valleys, rounding gentle rising hills, thinly
wooded and covered with grass. The ridge itself was chiefly of
slate-rock, intermixed with masses of coarse siliceous granite. We
followed the ridge for about six miles, when we descended into the
valley through which the south-west rivulet ran, and after
travelling about four miles farther, we crossed it when it was
running a strong stream. Waiting for the horses at this spot, I
took the opportunity of ascending a very lofty conical hill,
forming part of the range bounding the north-east side of the
valley. From this hill our hopes and expectations were gratified by
a view of Bathurst Plains, which I estimated to be distant about
twenty-two miles, bearing on the course we were pursuing. A Journal
is but ill calculated to be the record of the various hopes and
fears, which doubtless in some degree pervaded every mind upon this
intelligence: these feelings, whatever they might be, were soon to
be realized, and in an absence from our friends and connections of
nineteen weeks how much might have occurred in which we were all
deeply interested!</p>
<p>After travelling about three miles farther, we stopped for the
evening, under expectations that we might possibly reach Bathurst
on the morrow.</p>
<p>From the hill whence I saw Bathurst the view in every direction
(except north-east, where it was bounded by a range of equal height
between me and the river) was very extensive; the country to the
southward and south-west was broken into low grassy hills with four
intervening valleys. The rivulets derive their main supply from
those hills, and from the range upon which we had travelled the
greater part of the day: almost every hollow contained a running
stream, having its source in springs near the summit of the
hills.</p>
<p>Stringy bark trees were seen most generally on barren ridges,
the larger sized blue gums in the valleys. In the evening the
weather was unsettled with flying showers.</p>
<p>August 29.�At eight o'clock we proceeded towards Bathurst,
hoping to reach it by the evening; this we effected between eight
and nine o'clock, passing over a very hilly country with numerous
running streams, joining the river near Pine Hill, and afterwards
keeping along its banks.</p>
<p>The hospitable reception which we met with from Mr. Cox went far
to banish all present care from our minds: relieved, as they were,
by the knowledge that our friends were well, we almost forgot in
the hilarity of the moment, that nineteen harassing weeks had
elapsed since we last quitted it.</p>
<p>Although the winter at Bathurst, we learnt, had been cold and
severe, there had not been much rain; little or none had fallen in
the depot on the Lachlan, although the people there had observed
some very high floods in the river; one particularly that would
nearly correspond with the time when an unexpected fresh surprised
us on our return down the Lachlan on the 11th of July.</p>
<hr>
<h2><a name="ch-2" id="ch-2"></a>JOURNAL</h2>
<h4>OF AN</h4>
<h3>EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA</h3>
<hr class="short">
<h3>Part II.</h3>
<hr class="short">
<h4>��qua nulla pedum vestigia ducunt,<br>
Nulla rotae currus testantur signa priores. �GROTIUS.</h4>
<hr>
<hr class="short">
<h3>TO THE</h3>
<h2>RIGHT HON. ROBERT PEEL, M.P.</h2>
<h3>ONE OF HIS MAJESTY'S MOST HONOURABLE<br>
PRIVY COUNCIL,<br>
<br>
etc. etc. etc.</h3>
<h2>THIS JOURNAL</h2>
<h3>IS MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,</h3>
<h4>BY HIS VERY FAITHFUL<br>
<br>
AND OBLIGED<br>
<br>
HUMBLE SERVANT,</h4>
<h2>THE AUTHOR.</h2>
<h4>Sydney, New South Wales,<br>
July 21, 1819.</h4>
<hr>
<h2><a name="ch-2-1" id="ch-2-1"></a>PREFACE.</h2>
<p>The general appearance of the country of New South Wales and the
magnitude of the Macquarie River, as seen on the return of the
expedition in 1817, had caused the most sanguine expectation to be
entertained, that either a communication with the ocean, or
interior navigable waters, would be discovered by following its
course. The important benefits that would result to the colony in
the event of such an expectation being realized, determined his
Excellency Governor Macquarie to lose no time in fitting out a
second expedition, which should have the elucidation of this point
for its principal object. This expedition was also entrusted to my
direction. I had scarcely a doubt of ultimate success, and set out
with a confidence which nothing short of ocular demonstration could
destroy. The result of our voyage down the Macquarie River, and the
conjectures which naturally arose in my mind founded upon
observations of its apparent termination, together with our
subsequent journey to the east coast, will be found in the
following pages.</p>
<p>In the map which accompanies the present Journal, every bounding
range to the westward is laid down, from which it will appear that
the north-west interior is nearly a perfect plain; the lower parts
of which are certainly in most seasons under water. The highest
land we crossed lies in lat. 31. S., and long. 151. 10. E. From
this apparently dividing or principal range, the country gradually
declines to the north-west; when, the hills terminating abruptly,
the level land commences, over which is discharged all the waters
that have their rise in this dividing range; and also those waters
which rising in the hills (for they cannot with propriety be termed
mountains) to the south-west, have the Lachlan River for their
channel.</p>
<p>The nature of the country will be best explained by a reference
to the Journal; generally speaking, it is fine and open. The
bounding high lands to the north-west seem to take a direction
nearly parallel with the coast line, and the evident declension of
the country northerly affords strong ground for belief, that if
those interior waters have any outlet to the sea,<sup>[*]</sup> it
will be found in that direction; and I think the probability is
that the waters falling westerly, will there approach the high
tracts of country, much nearer than they do to the south-west. The
whole country to the north of our track appeared so extremely open
and practicable, that it offers in my opinion but few obstructions
to a series of triangles being carried over it; the longest sides
of which, being traced along the bounding high lands to the
north-west, and carried as far northerly as the isthmus, which
separates the gulf of Carpentaria from the sea to the eastward,
would effectually set at rest all questions as to the existence of
an interior sea. Farther north than this point, there can be no
reasonable expectation of finding either waters or an outlet.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* The observations made in the recent voyage
of Lieutenant King along the west and north coasts preclude every
reasonable hope of any opening being found on those coasts. The
voyage which he is at present prosecuting will doubtless determine
that point beyond all future question.]</p>
<p>So few natives were seen in the interior, that those extensive
regions can scarcely be described as inhabited; some scattered
families comprise the entire population, and the scanty remarks we
were enabled to make satisfied us of the strict identity of this
race of human beings with those of the coast. The same method of
procuring their food, the same arms and utensils, are common to
both. This remarkable similarity in the natives of different tribes
extends also to the animal and vegetable productions of the
country: the eucalyptus and casuarina; the kangaroo and the emu,
with their various species, alike inhabit the cold regions of Van
Diemen's land, and the warmer latitudes within the tropics.</p>
<p>A short description of the most remarkable plants collected
during the expedition by Mr. Charles Frazier, the government
collector, is added to this Journal; and although the result as to
the principal object of the expedition has not been answerable to
the expectation which was entertained when it set out, yet when the
general knowledge obtained of so considerable a portion of this
extensive country is considered, it is hoped that it has not been
undertaken and performed in vain; and that the field which it has
opened to the colonists will be attended with ultimate benefit both
to them and to the parent country.</p>
<p>Sydney, July 17, 1819.</p>
<hr>
<h2><a name="ch-2-2" id="ch-2-2"></a>JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION IN
AUSTRALIA�Part II</h2>
<hr>
<p>May 20, 1818. Having received his Excellency the Governor's
instructions for the conduct of the expedition intended to examine
the course of the Macquarie River, and every preparation having
been made at the depot in Wellington Valley for that purpose, I
quitted Sydney in company with Dr. Harris (late of the 102nd foot),
and after a pleasant journey, arrived at Bathurst on the 25th. Our
little arrangements having been completed by the 28th, we again set
forward with the baggage horses and men that were to compose the
expedition.</p>
<p>We at first kept nearly upon the track pursued by us on our
return from the first expedition in August last; but on approaching
Wellington Valley, keeping a little more to the westward, we
avoided much of that steep and rugged road which we then complained
of; the country being quite open, the valleys and flats good, the
hills limestone rock. We did not meet with the slightest
interruption, and arrived at the depot on the 2nd of June, where we
found the boats, etc. in perfect readiness for our immediate
reception.</p>
<p>June 4.�Got all the horses and provisions over to the
north side of the river, and made every preparation to pursue our
journey on the morrow. The river rose about a foot during the day.
The accident which had befallen our barometer during the former
expedition not being repaired, we are of course deprived of means
to make any observations on the height of the country above the
sea, otherwise than by careful observation of the several falls or
rapids: I do not think that our station here is much above four
hundred feet below the level of Bathurst.</p>
<p>June 5.�About one o'clock the weather cleared up a little,
when Lewis with the boat-builder's party set out on their return to
Bathurst, taking with them three of the worst of the horses, and
leaving with us nineteen. The river rose but little during the day:
it is quite high enough for our purpose. A new species of fish was
caught, having four smellers above and four under the mouth; the
hind part of it resembled an eel; it had one dorsal fin, and four
other fins, with a white belly; it measured twenty-one inches and a
half, and weighed about two pounds three quarters.</p>
<p>June 6.�Proceeded down the river about four miles, when
the boats were finally laden. The river in Wellington Valley had
been swelled by the late rains, insomuch that the water below its
junction with the Macquarie was quite discoloured. From the
fineness of the soil, the rain had made the ground very soft,
rendering it difficult for the horses to travel.</p>
<p>June 7.�Proceeded on our journey, both boats and horses
being very heavily laden with our stores and provisions. The river
rose but little. Our day's journey lay generally over an open
forest country, with rich flats on either side of the river: high
rocky limestone hills ended occasionally in abrupt points, obliging
the horses to make considerable detours. The hills were very stony,
and so light was the soil upon them, that the rain rendered the
ground very soft. The river had many fine reaches, extending in
straight lines from one to three miles, and of a corresponding
breadth. The rapids, although frequent, offered no material
obstruction to the boats. The current in the long reaches was
scarcely perceptible, and it appears to me that the difference of
elevation between this station and the last is not
considerable.</p>
<p>June 8.�The river expanded into beautiful reaches, having
great depth of water, and from two to three hundred feet broad,
literally covered with water-fowl of different kinds: the richest
flats bordered the river, apparently more extensive on the south
side. The vast body of water which this river must contain in times
of flood is confined within exterior banks, and its inundations are
thus deprived of mischief. About six miles down the river, a
freestone hill ended on the north side of the river: I mention
this, as the only stone of that description I had yet seen. The
trees were of the eucalyptus (apple tree), and on the hills a few
of the callitris macrocarpa<sup>[*]</sup> were seen: the trees
would furnish large and useful timber. Between eight and nine miles
lower, passed the mouth of Molle's rivulet, now a fine stream. At
four o'clock halted for the evening on rather an elevated spot,
overlooking the rivulet, and a most luxuriant country, on the south
side of the river, well clothed with wood. The boats, during this
day's work, met with no obstructions that were not easily avoided;
the rapids were not so numerous, neither were they so shoal as in
the vicinity of the depot. Our sportsmen provided us with plenty of
kangaroos, and a swan.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* Callitr. Vent decad.]</p>
<p>June 9.�This day the river ran to the north-west by north;
about six miles below our halting-place it received Mary's River, a
pretty little stream. The country on the north side which we passed
over was of various description; the hills barren and stony, with
dwarf eucalypti, or gums, casuarinae, and a few of the sterculia
heterophylla; the country hilly and open: some of the flats on the
banks of the river were extensive and rich, and apparently not
subject to floods. On the south side of the river, the country was
more generally a rich flat, backed by distant hills; to the
south-west, stony eminences occasionally ended on the river. On the
hills many specimens of agate, iron-stone, and jasper were
procured, also some flint; the low stones of the river produced the
same: abundance of fine freestone was every where seen. The general
elevation of the country still continues high; the river pours
along a vast body of water; there is no fresh in it, and it is not
in any respect above its usual level. The rapids are caused by the
river dividing into two channels, forming small islands; the water
here runs with great rapidity on a rocky and stony bottom, but of
considerable depth; the obstructions solely arising from trees
which have been washed by the floods from the banks, and which on
the subsidence of the water have remained in the narrows. The
character of this river is in every respect different from the
Lachlan; its waters are pure and transparent, with no marks of
flood; it derives its source and continuance from springs and
additional streams, and is in no way dependent upon rains for its
permanent existence.</p>
<p>June 10.�Remained at this station for the purpose of
refreshing the people and horses. Examined the country to the
north-east for a few miles; it differed but little from that
already passed over, in point of quality of soil, but was broken
into irregular hills and valleys, without rising into any one
distinguishing or remarkable hill: the surface of the country
seemed elevated, and rising to the eastward. The soil for the most
part a reddish light mould, the hills covered with small stones,
the trees dwarf gum, box, a few cypresses and casuarinae; the soil
well covered with grass. Kangaroos, fish, and swans, were the
produce of this day's sport, so that we enjoyed all the
necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life.</p>
<p>June 11.�Proceeded down the river about eight miles,
meeting with no obstructions of any consequence: the water had
risen about a foot in the last night, and now ran with considerable
rapidity, particularly in the narrows. It is by no means desirable
that the river should rise any higher; there is abundance of water
for our purposes, any addition would only partially cover the
stumps of trees and increase our danger; at present we see and
avoid them. After travelling six miles we came to a small river
running from the eastward; there was at this time a fresh in it, so
that we had to unload the horses and use the boats to transport our
baggage over. It was three o'clock before we had got every thing
across, we therefore halted for the evening. The country passed
through was of the finest description, and apparently equally good
on the opposite side; rich flats bounded by gentle hills were on
each side of the small river, which received the name of Erskine
River, after the present lieutenant governor of the colony. These
flats were covered with the species of eucalyptus called apple
tree, but (like the other trees) of small size. While we were
employed in crossing the river, I rode up it about three miles
through a similar country. I went to the north-east; the country
gently rose, and was generally of an excellent soil, well watered
and fit for all purposes of cultivation, with partial exceptions of
stony and brushy ridges. Many hills and elevated flats were
entirely clear of timber, and the whole had a very picturesque and
park-like appearance. I hailed Erskine River as a good omen of
ultimate success: it was the first stream we had met with falling
from the eastward, and was a proof to me that the Macquarie was the
natural reservoir or channel for the waters from the north-east, as
I knew it to be from the south. We had as yet seen no inhabitants,
and very few signs that the country is inhabited at all. Fish,
flesh, and fowl are abundant, but there are no human beings to
enjoy them but ourselves: native dogs are in considerable numbers,
and keep up during the night a continual howling.</p>
<p>June 12.�We this day passed over a very beautiful country,
thinly wooded, and apparently safe from the highest floods; the
river had considerable windings, but was of noble width and
appearance; the rapids were few, and offered no obstruction; its
medium width from one hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty
feet, and in many reaches much more. On one of the higher back
ridges there are some good iron bark trees, with abundance of
cypress; the apple, blue gum, and box, were the principal trees
growing on the flats. Kangaroos were in very great numbers: our
dogs took four; they were of that species called by Dr. Smith
macropus elegans, and are very rare on the east coast. The stones
and rocks were generally hard whinstone, or freestone, the former
in large masses; the beach, of pebbles of all colours and kinds,
from quartz to sandstone. About a mile from our resting-place, we
passed the mouth of the small rivulet named in the former journey
Elizabeth's Burn; the stream now in it was inconsiderable.</p>
<p>June 13.�Our route during this day's journey was generally
over a very level country, the land three or four miles back from
the river very inferior to that on the borders of it, being covered
with small trees and brush; the soil a light, red loam. The rich
flats on the banks on either side were not flooded, and were of the
best quality: these flats seemed more extensive on the south than
the north side of the river, and were bounded by the fine hills,
which were passed over on the return of the expedition last year.
About five miles from our last night's resting-place, we fell in
with a small rivulet from the north-east, which I named after Major
Taylor, of the 48th regiment. On the west side of it, we came
suddenly upon a couple of native families; they, however, with the
exception of an old man, and a boy who was up a tree, made their
escape. No entreaties could bring the boy down; he seemed, in fact,
as well as the old man, petrified with terror. The man was
possessed of the remains of an iron tomahawk, which he had fitted
as a mogo, or native axe. I think it probable he became possessed
of this treasure through others of his countrymen who had visited
the party in Wellington Vale, as it was clear he had never seen
white people before. The man made repeated attempts to induce us to
depart, which to his great joy we shortly did. The left side of
this man's body was one continued ulcer, occasioned most likely by
a burn. The river wound upon every point of the compass, and its
breadth was much contracted by shoals and rapids running over a
rocky bottom: the stream ran with great velocity, and the boat
experienced no interruptions. The banks were very high and wide,
and although the marks of flood were observed to upwards of thirty
feet, the waters were confined to the actual bed of the river,
without flooding the lands on either side. Large masses of coarse
granite were in the river where we stopped for the evening; it was
of a different species from any we had hitherto seen, and the bases
of the hills ending on the river seemed to be composed of it.</p>
<p>June 14.�I had determined to halt this day, for the
purpose of verifying our situation by survey, but was prevented by
rain of great violence throughout the day, accompanied by strong
winds from the north-west; this confined us to our tents.</p>
<p>June 15.�Our journey lay over alternate rich flats and
barren stony scrubs; the country irregular, and the banks much
elevated: the land to the north-west and north, as far as we could
see, (ten or twelve miles) broken into bare, irregular hills and
valleys. On the south side of the river the flats were more
extended; thick coppices, and tracts of barren land, were also
observed on that side. About four miles down the river large blocks
of granite were scattered in its bed, and formed the base of the
surrounding hills, the tops of which were covered with different
kinds of stone, cemented or fused together by the action of fire:
many of those stones were beautifully crystallised, and the
appearance of some kind of mineral was evident. The river sometimes
swept along in fine reaches, then, becoming contracted into narrow
rocky channels, rushed through those straits with extreme violence,
rendering it difficult to steer the boats clear of the obstructions
that presented themselves on every side: the large boat struck
twice in those narrows. The water has fallen considerably, and it
does not appear to be even now at its usual level; its quality is
very hard. The granite we fell in with four miles below our last
encampment was of a totally different species, being much finer and
closer grained, with small black specks thickly intermingled in the
mass; some freestone was also seen. The botany of the country was
in all respects the same as observed on our journey homewards last
year; the grassy nature of the herbage preventing any material
addition to our collection. Kangaroos were in great numbers, and
continued to furnish us with a welcome addition to our rations.</p>
<p>June 16.�Our day's route was as usual over a very flat
though rich country, thickly wooded with good timber of the
eucalyptus and angophora species, with some fine cypresses in the
looser soils, and back from the river. The country, although flat,
appears considerably elevated, and is neither flooded nor swampy;
the opposite side apparently of the same kind. We fell in with
another small camp of natives; the women and children withdrew
before we came up with them: among the men (seven in number) we
recognised four whom we had seen on the last expedition at Mary's
Rivulet; the recognition was mutual, and they seemed highly pleased
with it: they accompanied us about eight miles farther to our
evening's encampment, where being gratified with some kangaroo, and
undergoing the operation of shaving, (at their earnest request,
after seeing one of their number disencumbered of an immense beard)
they left us at sunset to join their families, which were probably
at no great distance. About four miles above our encampment, on the
immediate banks of the river, we discovered a large mass of
saponaceous earth; I at first took it to be a fine pipeclay, but on
examination, it appears to possess all the valuable qualities of
fuller's earth; and a piece of woollen cloth being partially
greased, and then rubbed over with the earth, the grease was
perfectly extracted and the cloth left entirely clean. Among this
earth, small white pieces of a hard marly substance were found, and
appeared either to be pure lime, or to contain a very considerable
portion of it. On one of the beaches a small shell was found, which
was unanimously adjudged to be a marine production; at least, we
had never before seen any fresh-water shell resembling it. The
river fell during the last night and the course of this day very
considerably, and is, I think, below its proper level; there is
however an ample sufficiency of water for our boats: the chief
dangers are from stumps and branches of trees in the narrows; and
what previously to the great fall in the water we could have passed
over without difficulty, now occasions us some anxiety and trouble.
The course the river took to-day was considerably to the north.</p>
<p>June 17.�A very severe frost, the ice a quarter of an inch
thick. About a mile down the river, we saw a native burial-place or
tomb, not more than a month old; the characters carved on the trees
were quite fresh: the tomb had no semicircular seats, but in other
respects was similar to those seen on our last journey. The country
still continued perfectly level, the greater part extremely good
and rich; back from the river it was occasionally marshy, with
barren rocky scrubs; the timber large, and generally good: we could
not see beyond a mile on the opposite side, but the country there
appeared much the same. One of the men, who was some distance ahead
of the horses, saw a large party of the natives, who fled at his
approach, and swam the river; there were upwards of twenty men,
besides women and children: the moment they were safely across,
they brandished their waddies and spears in token of defiance: this
was the first time any of the natives were seen armed, or in any
way hostilely inclined. The river ran to the north-west by north
over a bottom of rock and sand: in point of depth, it was amply
sufficient for much larger boats than ours; but it was impossible
always to avoid concealed dangers, over which the waters did not
cause the slightest ripple. The large boat struck on a sharp rock,
and with such violence as to stave her bottom; she was immediately
unladen, and temporarily repaired without injury to the cargo.
Although the river is extremely low, there is a very large body of
water in it; the outer banks are nearly a quarter of a mile wide,
and far out of the reach of flood, the marks of which were, to our
extreme astonishment, observed nearly fifty feet high. We have not
seen during these last two days any hill or other eminence; the
country within our sight and observation being perfectly level.</p>
<p>June. 18.�As we were on the point of setting forward, a
large party of natives made their appearance on the opposite side
of the river: they set up a most hideous and discordant noise,
making signs, as well as we could understand them, for us to depart
and go down the river. After beating their spears and waddies
together for about a quarter of an hour, accompanied by no friendly
gestures, they went away up the river, while we pursued our course
in an opposite direction. We had hitherto met with no obstructions
in the navigation, except such as arose from the wrecks of
successive floods lodging in the narrows; these were easily
overcome: the course of the river to-day for nearly six miles was a
fine and even stream, from forty to fifty yards wide, and from
eight to sixteen feet deep, over a bottom of rock and sandy gravel;
when a reef of rocks at once interrupted our progress in the laden
boats, the water breaking with such violence over them, that I was
afraid they would be greatly endangered even when light. The horses
had stopped at a cataract about three quarters of a mile lower
down, and it appeared that the rocky shoal extended to that
distance, when a fall of five feet over a bed of rocks would have
stopped the boats altogether. The horses were immediately unladen
and sent to bring the cargos of the two boats, which being
accomplished, we got them safely over the shoals by the cataracts;
when hauling them over land about two hundred yards, they were
again launched into deep water. The country on either side during
this days journey was by no means so good as it had hitherto
generally been, being very brushy, and thickly timbered, chiefly
with the species of eucalyptus called box, and another kind
appearing to be different from those frequently observed. The banks
of the river were very high; and, notwithstanding the country was
perfectly level, it was far above the reach of any flood. The body
of water falling over the cataract was surprising, the low state of
the river being considered, and this incident instead of
discouraging us increased our already sanguine hopes, that its
termination would not deceive the expectations we could not avoid
indulging.</p>
<p>June 19.�The boats during their progress this day did not
experience any obstruction, the river winding in fine though narrow
reaches, over a bottom of sand and occasionally rock; the depth
from eight to sixteen feet. The country still continued perfectly
level, but generally of excellent soil: two or three miles back
from the river north-east, there were several extensive plains,
without any timber on them, and in many places water was on the
surface, probably occasioned by the heavy rain on the 14th instant;
since these flats, and indeed all the country we had hitherto
travelled over, were quite clear of any floods from the river. The
banks of the river are, I think, ten or twelve feet lower than they
are fifteen or twenty miles higher up; the floods evidently do not
rise to so great a height, not exceeding, as far as we can judge,
sixteen feet. I do not think the timber is either so large or so
good as we had hitherto found it; but there is a great quantity of
it, chiefly box, and a species of blue gum. Although at such a
distance from the Lachlan, we have recognised most of the plants
found in its vicinity: in all other respects the neighbourhood of
the two rivers is totally dissimilar; and in nothing more
observable than in the rivers themselves. The water in the river
continues so extremely hard as to render it difficult to raise a
lather from soap; it is also very pure and transparent.</p>
<p>June 20.�The night cold, a sharp frost congealing some
standing water by the river's side. The river rose upwards of a
foot during the night, and still continues gradually to rise.
Having gone upwards of one hundred and twenty-five miles from
Wellington Valley, I thought it advisable that the two men who
accompanied us for that purpose should return to Sydney with an
account of our proceedings, agreeably to the governor's
instructions. Despatched two other men on horseback to the
north-east, with directions to go as far as possible in that
direction, and to return by sunset; which they did, and reported
that they had been from fourteen to sixteen miles, through a very
fine though level country: the brushes were of small extent, and
communicated with the finest tracts, chiefly of forest land thinly
wooded: no marks were seen of any floods either from the river or
land side, and these flats were watered by chains of ponds or
watercourses, which doubtless when overflowed communicate with the
river. Abundance of kangaroos and emus.</p>
<p>June 21.�The result of the observation this day gave for
our situation lat. 31. 49. 60. S., long. 147. 52. 15. E., and the
variation 8. 22. E.</p>
<p>June 22.�Completed the necessary papers for the governor's
information, and made all ready to proceed on our journey tomorrow.
The river in these last two days has risen between two and three
feet.</p>
<p>June 23.�Having despatched Thomas Thatcher and John Hall
to Bathurst, with an account of our progress, the expedition set
forward down the river. For four or five miles there was no
material change in the general appearance of the country from what
it had been on the preceding days, but for the last six miles the
land was very considerably lower, interspersed with plains clear of
timber, and dry. On the banks it was still lower, and in many parts
it was evident that the river floods swept over them, though this
did not appear to be universally the case. The far greater part of
the last six miles was covered with shrubs, and the acacia pendula.
These unfavourable appearances threw a damp upon our hopes, and we
feared that our anticipations had been too sanguine. The river
continued nearly as before, but much narrower, and more winding, in
some measure accounting for the great height of the floods which we
observed fifty or sixty miles back, where the river was probably
four times as wide: we missed with regret the striking
characteristics which had hitherto distinguished it, the sandy and
gravelly beaches, and rocky points; though there was certainly the
same volume of water which had originally given me such strong
hopes that it could never be dissipated over marshes. The banks are
no more than twenty feet high in their most elevated places, and
the probability is, that all our doubts, speculations, and hopes,
will be clearly decided within the week; the soil is of the richest
quality, but the flatness of the land, and want of any eminence,
are great drawbacks upon the bounties of nature: not but there are
numerous spaces above the reach of either land or river flood,
which would offer secure retreats to the inhabitants of these
singular regions. Several new birds were seen to-day of very
beautiful plumage; none however were procured, so as to enable me
to describe them. We also saw the crested pigeon, and grey and red
parrot of the Lachlan; some fine and singular plants also enriched
our collection: it would seem as if nature here delighted in
wasting her most beautiful productions upon the "desert air,"
rather than placing them in situations where they would become more
easily accessible to the researches of science and taste.</p>
<p>June 24.�The country was still extremely flat, and
perfectly overrun with acacias, dwarf box (eucalyptus), some
species of suffruticore atriplex,<sup>[*]</sup> and other shrubs;
and intersected by nunumerous extensive lagoons now quite dry, but
which when the river is about one-third full, convey the water back
over vast plains and levels for the most part clear of every kind
of brush, and on the fall of the waters these lagoons act as drains
to the lands. The brushes were most numerous and perplexing in the
neighbourhood of the river, a course we were obliged to keep, in
order not to part company with the boats. The country two or three
miles along the banks of the river was only partially flooded, the
land being much lower at a greater distance from it; the most part
of the soil was a rich, alluvial deposition from floods. Except on
those clear plains which occasionally occurred on the sides of the
river, we could seldom see beyond a quarter of a mile. Byrne, who
was at the head of the hunting party, surprised an old native man
and woman, the former digging for rats, or roots, the other
lighting a fire: they did not perceive him till he was within a few
yards of them, when the man threw his wooden spade at Byrne, which
struck his horse; then taking his old woman by the hand, they set
off with the utmost celerity, particularly when they saw the dogs,
of which they seem to entertain great fears. In the evening,
natives were heard on the opposite side of the river, but none came
within view. There was no alteration in the appearance or size of
the river during this day's course; the banks were in no respect
lower: it ran with great rapidity over a sandy bottom, and was from
six to thirty feet deep; the water still clear, and remarkably
hard.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* Other genera of chenopodeae likewise exist
on these plains, of which some salsolae, and that curious
lanigerous shrub sclerolaena paradoxa of Mr. Brown, with spinous
fruit, are most remarkable.]</p>
<p>June 25.�The weather cold, but fine: the thermometer is
about 28 degrees, and I think from this extraordinary degree of
cold so far to the north, that notwithstanding the lowness of the
surrounding country (as compared to its relative situation with the
river), that we are still at a considerable elevation above the
sea. In our last journey, three degrees farther south, we
experienced at the same season no such cold, the weather being
equally fine and clear as at present. The appearance of the country
was much the same as yesterday; the whole ground we passed over
being liable to flood, and covered with eucalyptus or gum tree,
acacia pendula, and various other species of that extensive genus,
one of which appeared quite new but not in flower. Four or five
miles back from the river (east), the country rises and is not
flooded, the soil being there much inferior, but covered with fine
cypresses: notwithstanding this tract was much higher than that
more immediately on the river, there was no eminence from which we
could look around. The banks of the river are much lower than
yesterday, scarcely exceeding twelve feet high; the floods are low
in proportion, and I did not see any mark showing that the rise of
water ever exceeded a foot above the banks. The river did not offer
the slightest obstruction, and was from twenty to twenty-four feet
deep. There is probably from two to three feet more in it than
usual; the breadth varies considerably, in some places not more
than sixty feet, in others two hundred. All the lagoons (though
very deep), in the neighbourhood of the river are quite dry, and
appearances indicate that the country has not been flooded for
years. Emus and kangaroos are in abundance; but we have lately
caught no fish, owing most likely to the coldness of the weather:
various birds altogether unknown to us were seen; and although the
leading plants were the same as those found through nearly the
whole of Australia, new ones were daily met with. The river has
continued inclining to the northward: its course to-day was
north-north-west.</p>
<p>June 26.�The country this day was as various as can be
imagined; low but not level; in some places covered with the acacia
pendula, chenopodeae, and polygonum juncium; in others, with good
gum and box trees. The whole, with few exceptions, appeared liable
to flood. Four or five miles back the country imperceptibly rises,
and is free from river floods; but the hollows, proceeding from the
inequalities of its surface, are in rainy seasons the reservoirs of
the land floods. The whole country was now perfectly dry, and must
have been so for a long period: it would indeed have been
impossible, had the season been wet, to have kept company with the
boats. The river itself continues undiminished, and is a fine
stream, with nothing to impede the navigation; its windings,
however, are very considerable. The banks appear lower by nearly
three feet than yesterday: there are still no marks of flood rising
upon the land above a foot on either side: the depth of the stream
is from twenty to twenty-four feet, breadth from sixty to one
hundred and sixty, and its current is about a mile and a half per
hour. The river has fallen yesterday and to-day nearly eighteen
inches.</p>
<p>June 27.�The river continues to fall. We had gone about
five miles through a country as low and brushy as usual, when we
were agreeably surprised with the view of a small hill about a mile
to the eastward: we hastened to it, in hopes that we should find
that the country rose to the north-east; we however saw nothing but
another hill still higher, about three miles to the
north-north-west, in the direction of the river. The hill, or
rather rock, we had just quitted, was about a quarter of a mile
long by half a quarter broad, and about seventy feet high; it was
nothing but granite, having the sides and summit covered with
broken pieces of a fine and very compact species of the same
mineral. We named it Welcome Rock; for any thing like an eminence
was grateful to our sight. From the summit of the hill seen to the
north-north-west our view was very extensive; but nothing indicated
either a speedy change of country or a termination of the river. To
the westward, the land was a perfect level, with clear spaces or
marshes interspersed amidst the boundless desert of wood. To the
east, a most stupendous range of mountains, lifting their blue
heads above the horizon, bounded the view in that direction, and
were distant at least seventy miles, the country appearing a
perfect plain between us and them. From north-west to north-east
nothing interrupted the horizontal view, except a hill similar to
the one we were on, about five miles distant to the
north-north-west. Extended as was our prospect, it did not afford
much room for satisfactory anticipation; and there was nothing that
gave us reason to believe that any stream, either from the east or
west, joined the river for the next forty miles at least. The hill
from which this view was taken was named Mount Harris, after my
friend, who accompanied the expedition as a volunteer; that to the
north-north-west, Mount Forster, after Lieutenant Forster, of the
Navy; and the lofty range before mentioned to the eastward was
distinguished by the name of Arbuthnot's Range, after the Right
Hon. C. Arbuthnot, of His Majesty's Treasury. The two first
mentioned hills are entirely of granite, from one and a half to two
miles long, by half a mile to one mile wide: their formation must
be considered a most singular geological phenomenon, detached as
they are by an immense space from all mountainous ranges, and
rising from the midst of a soft alluvial soil. Small pieces of
granite were in several places thrown into heaps, as if by human
means; and their whole surfaces were covered with similar pieces,
detached from the solid mass to which they had once belonged. If I
might hazard a conjecture, I should attribute to them a volcanic
origin: I think, on examination, their constituent parts will be
found to have undergone the action of fire, by which they have been
fused together. To those conversant in the structure of the earth,
and with the means used by nature to accomplish her purposes, these
singular hills may offer a subject for curious inquiry. The natives
appear numerous in these regions of apparent desolation: we fell in
with several parties in the course of the day, in the whole
probably not less than forty, and many fires were seen to the
north. Being a mile or two ahead of our party in a thick brush, I
came suddenly upon three men; two ran off with the greatest speed;
the third, who was older and a little lame, first threw his
firestick at me, and next (seeing me still advance) a waddie, but
with such agitation, that though not more than a dozen paces
distant, he missed both me and my horse. I returned to my party,
and in company with them surprised the native camp; we found there
eight women and twelve children, just on the point of departing
with their infants in their cloaks on their backs: on seeing us,
they seized each other by the hand, formed a circle, and threw
themselves on the ground, with their heads and faces covered.
Unwilling to add to their evident terror, we only remained a few
minutes, during which time the children frequently peeped at us
from beneath their clothes; indeed, they seemed more surprised than
alarmed: the mothers kept uttering a low and mournful cry, as if
entreating mercy. In the camp were several spears, or rather
lances, as they were much too ponderous to be thrown by the arm;
these were jagged: there were also some elamongs (shields), clubs,
chisels, and several workbags filled with every thing necessary for
the toilet of a native belle; namely, paint and feathers, necklaces
of teeth, and nets for the head, with thread formed of the sinews
of the opossum's tail for making their cloaks. The men belonging to
the camp were heard shouting at no great distance: their affection
for their families was not, however, sufficiently powerful to
induce them to attempt their rescue from the hands of such
unfabulous centaurs, as we doubtless appeared to them. The boats
met with no interruption, the river continuing a fine and even
stream, running at the rate of a mile and a half per hour: it was
in places very narrow, and our astonishment would have been excited
that such a channel should contain the powerful body of water
falling into it, if we had not found its medium depth to be from
twenty to thirty feet. The height of the banks is not more than
seven feet above the water, and they appeared to have been flooded
to that height. It did not seem that back from the river, beyond
three or four miles, the country was ever flooded, except by the
waters which would fall on its surface in rainy seasons; it was,
however, now quite dry, and the hollows of the surface bore
evidence of a long continued drought. The course of the river still
continued to the north-north-west. The rocks composing Mount Harris
are apparently basaltic, the whole seeming to have been shot up in
points. the angles of which are complete. The stones are very heavy
and compact, and when dashed against each other were extremely
sonorous.</p>
<p>June 28.�Remained here this day for the purpose of rest
and refreshment: the grass and country poor, and covered with
acacia trees and small eucalypti in our immediate vicinity.
Despatched two men to view the country to the north-east. The
botanical collector crossed the river and ascended Mount Forster,
on which he was fortunate enough to procure many plants seemingly
new: he thought he saw a branch of the river separating from it and
running to the north-west, whilst the river itself continued to go
northerly. The account brought by the men in the evening was far
from flattering; they had been out ten or twelve miles to the north
and east, and found the country as bad as can be imagined; in fact,
a dry morass, with higher land, free from floods, but overrun with
brushes, among which a few pines were scattered: they saw no water,
and but little game of any kind.</p>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="image-7-3" id="image-7-3"></a><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0013.jpg"></p>
<p class="caption">Arbuthnot's Range, from the West.</p>
<p>June 29.�As we proceeded down the river, the country
gradually became much lower in its immediate vicinity; and between
four and five miles from our resting-place it was even with the
banks, and in some places overflowed them. All travelling near the
river with horses was at once interrupted, and this was the more
perplexing as it rendered the communication with the boats
uncertain, and liable to be cut off altogether. Finding that those
marshes were only impassable for a mile or little more from the
river, and that occasionally we could approach within one hundred
yards of it, the horses were directed to keep round the edge of
them, making for the river whenever practicable, and firing guns to
let the boats know our situation. At two o'clock in the after. noon
we stopped, after going about ten miles and a half, about one
hundred and fifty yards from the river. which we could not approach
nearer by reason of wet and boggy marshes; in fact, the place where
we stopped is of the same description, but now (fortunately for us)
dry. The country north-east of us, along the dry edge of which we
were obliged to keep, is as bad as possible, being in wet seasons
full of water-holes, and consequently impassable. The river still
continues undiminished, as we find that the branches and small
streams that frequently run from it join it again at short
distances, and that they owe their existence at this time to the
full state of the river, which is certainly some feet above its
usual level. The breadth and depth of the river were various
throughout the day: in the places where it overflowed its banks,
there was not more than from ten to twelve feet; in others, where
it ran very broad, but was confined within them, fifteen feet; and
in narrower places, under the same circumstances, upwards of twenty
feet. Thus it seemed to vary with the capacity of the channel to
contain its waters, which were very muddy, the current running at a
medium rate of a mile per hour. The boats arrived at about half
past four o'clock, meeting nothing to interrupt them.</p>
<p>June 30.�After making every arrangement that we could
devise to ensure our keeping company with the boats, we proceeded
down the river. Our progress was, however, interrupted much sooner
than I anticipated; for we had scarcely gone six miles, and never
nearer to the river than from one to two miles, when we perceived
that the waters which had overflowed the banks were spreading over
the plains on which we were travelling, and that with a rapidity
which precluded any hope of making the river again to the
north-west by north, in which direction we imagined it to run for
some distance, when its course appeared to take a more northerly
direction. Our situation did not admit of hesitation as to the
steps we were to pursue. Our journey had, in fact, been continued
longer than strict prudence would have warranted, and the safety of
the whole party was now at stake: no retreat presented itself
except the station we left in the morning, and even there it was
impossible that we could, with any regard to prudence, remain
longer than to carry the arrangements which I had in contemplation
into effect. The horses were therefore ordered back, and two men
succeeded, after wading through the water to the middle, in making
the river about three miles below the place they set out from.
Fortunately the boats had not proceeded so far, and on their coming
up were directed to return. The boats arrived at sunset, having had
to pull against a strong current. The river itself continued, as
usual, from fifteen to twenty-five feet deep, the waters which were
overflowing the plains being carried thither by a multitude of
little streams, which had their origin in the present increased
height of the waters above their usual level. The river continued
undiminished, and presented too important a body of water to allow
me to believe that those marshes and low grounds had any material
effect in diffusing and absorbing it: its ultimate termination,
therefore, must be more consonant to its magnitude. These
reflections on the present undiminished state of the river would of
themselves have caused me to pause before I hastily quitted a
pursuit from the issue of which so much had naturally been
expected. For all practical purposes, the nature of the country
precluded me from indulging the hope, that even if the river should
terminate in an inland sea, it could be of the smallest use to the
colony. The knowledge of its actual termination, if at all
attainable, was, however, a matter of deep importance, and would
tend to throw some light on the obscurity in which the interior of
this vast country is still involved. My ardent desire to
investigate as far as possible this interesting question,
determined me to take the large boat, and with four volunteers to
proceed down the river as long as it continued navigable; a due
regard being had to the difficulties we should have to contend with
in returning against the stream. I calculated that this would take
me a month; at all events, I determined to be provided for that
period, which indeed was the very utmost that could be spared from
the ulterior object of the expedition.</p>
<p>July 1.�The water not rising. Employed in making every
preparation to proceed on the voyage down the river to-morrow
morning. On mature deliberation, it was resolved that on my
departure, the horses with the provisions should return back to
Mount Harris, a distance of about fifteen miles, as the safety of
the whole would be endangered by a longer stay at this station, and
to that point I fixed to return with the large boat. It was
determined, that during my absence Mr. Evans should proceed to the
north-east from fifty to sixty miles, and return upon a more
northerly course, in order that we might be prepared against any
difficulties that might occur in the first stages of a journey to
the north-east coast. The only one which I contemplated in a
serious point of view, was the probable want of water until we came
in contact with high land, and I hoped this might be partially
provided against by Mr. Evans's expedition. The horses were all in
good condition, and, from the length of time I expected to be
absent, the baggage would be reduced to the smallest possible
compass, and the cooper would have time to diminish the pork casks,
which were far too heavy for the horses, being intended for boats
only; for it had not been contemplated that the nature of the
country would so soon deprive us of water carriage.</p>
<p>July 2.�I proceeded down the river, during one of the
wettest and most stormy days we had yet experienced. About twenty
miles from where I set out, there was, properly speaking, no
country; the river overflowing its banks, and dividing into streams
which I found had no permanent separation from the main branch, but
united themselves to it on a multitude of points. We went seven or
eight miles farther, when we stopped for the night upon a space of
ground scarcely large enough to enable us to kindle a fire. The
principal stream ran with great rapidity, and its banks and
neighbourhood, as far as we could see, were covered with wood,
encreasing us within a margin or bank. Vast spaces of country clear
of timber were under water, and covered with the common
reed,<sup>[*]</sup> which grew to the height of six or seven feet
above the surface. The course and distance by the river was
estimated to be from twenty-seven to thirty miles, on a
north-north-west line.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* Arundo phragmites. Linn.]</p>
<p>July 3.�Towards the morning the storm abated, and at
daylight we proceeded on our voyage. The main bed of the river was
much contracted, but very deep, the waters spreading to the depth
of a foot or eighteen inches over the banks, but all running on the
same point of bearing. We met with considerable interruption from
fallen timber, which in places nearly choked up the channel. After
going about twenty miles, we lost the land and trees: the channel
of the river, which lay through reeds, and was from one to three
feet deep, ran northerly. This continued for three or four miles
farther, when although there had been no previous change in the
breadth, depth, and rapidity of the stream for several miles, and I
was sanguine in my expectations of soon entering the long sought
for Australian sea, it all at once eluded our farther pursuit by
spreading on every point from north-west to north-east, among the
ocean of reeds which surrounded us, still running with the same
rapidity as before. There, was no channel whatever among those
reeds, and the depth varied from three to five feet. This
astonishing change (for I cannot call it a termination of the
river), of course left me no alternative but to endeavour to return
to some spot, on which we could effect a landing before dark. I
estimated that during this day we had gone about twenty-four miles,
on nearly the same point of bearing as yesterday. To assert
positively that we were on the margin of the lake or sea into which
this great body of water is discharged, might reasonably be deemed
a conclusion which has nothing but conjecture for its basis; but if
an opinion may be permitted to be hazarded from actual appearances,
mine is decidedly in favour of our being in the immediate vicinity
of an inland sea, or lake, most probably a shoal one, and gradually
filling up by immense depositions from the higher lands, left by
the waters which flow into it. It is most singular, that the
high-lands on this continent seem to be confined to the sea-coast,
or not to extend to any great distance from it.</p>
<p>July 7.�I returned with the boat late last night, and was
glad to find that every thing had been removed to Mount Harris. Mr.
Evans had not yet set out on his journey, but intends to do so
to-morrow.</p>
<p>July 8.�Mr. Evans set forward to the north-east, taking
with him eight or ten days' provisions, which I hoped would be
sufficient to enable him to form a competent idea of the country we
should now have to travel over. In the mean time we employed
ourselves in diminishing our baggage, and setting aside eighteen
weeks' provisions on a reduced ration, which was the utmost the
horses could take; the remainder serving us for consumption during
our stay here.</p>
<p>July 18.�During the last week the weather was very
variable and unsettled, with constant gales from the north-west
round to the south-west, and occasional heavy rain. We had reason
to congratulate ourselves on the change of our situation: a delay
of a few days would have swept us from the face of the earth. On
the 10th, the river began to rise rapidly, and on the 15th, in the
evening it was at its height, laying the whole of the low country
under water, and insulating us on the spot on which we were; the
water approaching within a few yards of the tent. Nothing could be
more melancholy and dreary than the scene around us; and although
personally safe, we could not contemplate without anxiety the
difficulties we might expect to meet with, in passing over a
country which the waters would leave wet and marshy, if not
impracticable. By this morning the waters had retired as rapidly as
they had risen, leaving us an outlet to the eastward, though I
feared that to the north-east the waters would still remain. In the
evening Mr. Evans returned, after an interesting though
disagreeable journey. His horses were completely worn out by the
difficulties of the country they had travelled over. His report,
which I shall give at length, decided me as to the steps that were
now to be pursued; and I determined on making nearly an easterly
course to the river which he had discovered, and which was now
honoured with the name of Lord Castlereagh. This route would take
us over a drier country, and the river being within a short
distance of Arbuthnot's range, would enable me to examine from
those elevated points the country to the north-east and east; and
to decide how far it might be advisable to trace the river, which
it is my present inclination to do as long as its course continues
to the eastward of north. From Mr. Evans's Journal, it will be
perceived that the waters of the Macquarie have flowed to the
north-east, and still continued flowing among the reeds, which
forced him to alter his course. The circumstance of the river and
other large bodies of water crossed by Mr. Evans all flowing to the
north, seems to bear out the conclusion that these waters have but
one common reservoir.</p>
<p>July 19.�A tempestuous night, with thunder, lightning, and
rain. Impressed with the important use we should be able to make of
our boats, it was determined to construct a carriage for the small
one, which we did by the afternoon. Our labour was wasted; for we
were altogether unable to contrive any harness by which the horses
could draw it: we were therefore reluctantly obliged to relinquish
our intention.</p>
<p>July 20.�The morning was fine; and after much contrivance,
we succeeded in taking with us whatever was essential to our future
security, and the whole of the provisions except two casks or
flour. The horses were, however, very heavily laden, carrying at
least three hundred and fifty pounds each; a weight which I was
fearful the description of country we had to pass over would render
still more burthensome. We had, however, relinquished every thing
that was not indispensable, and the saddle horses were equally
laden with the others. Mount Harris, under which we had remained
for the last fortnight, is in lat. 31. 18. S., long. 147. 31. E.
and variation 7. 48. On the summit of the hill we buried a bottle,
containing a written scheme of our purposed route and intentions,
with some silver coin. Our course during the day was east by north,
by compass, over a level country intersected with marshes, over
which the horses travelled with the utmost difficulty, and not
without repeated falls. Considering how heavily they were laden, I
was unwilling to press them at this early period of our journey,
and halted after going seven miles on the above course. From Mount
Harris, bearings were taken to the most remarkable elevations in
Arbuthnot's Range, as follows:</p>
<pre>Mount Exmouth,  (northern extreme of the range)  N. 79. E.
Mount Harrison, (centre)                         N. 85. E.
Vernon's Peake                                   N. 88. E.
</pre>
<p>July 21.�Proceeded on the same course, through a country
of alternate brush and marsh: whatever obstacles the former opposed
to the progress of the horses, were nothing to the distress
occasioned by the latter, in which they sank up to their knees at
every step; I could not suffer them to proceed farther than seven
miles, which, indeed, was not accomplished without severe labour.
It is a singular feature in this remarkable country, that the
botany and soil are in all respects the same as two hundred and
fifty miles farther to the south-west, presenting nothing new to
our researches. Passed a very large chain of ponds now running to
the north-east, and named them Wallis's Ponds, after my friend,
Captain Wallis, of the 46th regiment.</p>
<p>July 22.�We passed over much the same country as
yesterday, but having a large proportion of cypress forest. After
travelling nearly ten miles, we halted on the edge of a very
extensive flat, from three to four miles in diameter, covered with
water. From this plain we had an excellent view of Arbuthnot's
Range, which, from so low and level a country, appears of vast
height. The horses failed much during the day, and several of them
were severely wrung with their burthens.</p>
<p>July 23.�The weather continues remarkably fine and
favourable to our progress over these plains. Our course to-day was
chiefly through a thick brush of acacia and cypresses; a few trees
of the eucalyptus and casuarina were intermixed. The marshy ground
was not so frequent, and we effected between eight and nine miles,
when we stopped on a small chain of ponds but now a running strean,
doubtless having its rise in the marshy grounds a few miles south
of us: its course was to the north. We saw and shot several unknown
birds within these few days, but the botanical sameness continues.
These ponds were named Morrissett's Ponds, after Capt. Morrissett,
of the 48th regiment.</p>
<p>July 24.�About a mile and a half from last night's
station, we crossed another small stream similar in all respects to
Morrissett's Ponds. Our course was alternately over wet flats and
dry brushes; but in the latter we met with difficulties which we
did not anticipate, namely, dry bogs of a most dangerous
description; they are from thirty to forty yards broad, and the
apparent firmness of their surface treacherously conceals the
danger beneath. One was discovered before the horses were too far
advanced to retreat, and by unlading them, we passed safely
over.</p>
<p>The horses were upon the other before we discovered the extent
of our danger, and it was only by instantly cutting away their
loads and harness, and by the exertion of all hands, that they were
dragged out; but they were so exhausted by the struggles they had
themselves made, that I found it would be highly imprudent to
proceed farther, though we had only gone five miles and a half.
Such of the horses as had not come up, their loads being carried
over, crossed the bog half a mile higher, where the ground was
somewhat firmer. We had this day the misfortune to find two of our
horses much strained in their hind quarters. The soil of the
brushes is in general a light, sandy loam; on the plains it is an
alluvial mould, on a substratum of clay: the water on these plains
is seldom deeper than the ankles, but travelling over them is very
wearisome. Arbuthnot's Range was in sight during the whole day. The
country was so generally level, that it was impossible to discern
any inequality in it. The waters however, ran with a pretty brisk
stream northerly.</p>
<p>July 25.�At nine o'clock we set forward with anxious hopes
of reaching Castlereagh River in the course of the day; we
struggled for nine miles through a line of country that baffles all
description: we were literally up to the middle in water the whole
way, and two of the horses were obliged to be unladen to get them
over quicksand bogs. Finding a place sufficiently dry to pitch our
tent on, though surrounded by water, we halted, both men and horses
being too much exhausted to proceed farther. Mr. Evans thinking we
could not be very far from the river, went forwards a couple of
miles, when he came upon its banks. This same river, which last
Wednesday week had been crossed without any difficulty, was now
nearly on a level with its first or inner bank: and its width and
rapidity precluded all hope of our being able to cross it until its
subsidence. This was most perplexing intelligence, our situation
being such that we could neither retreat nor advance beyond the
bank of the river, which Mr. Evans represented as being both higher
and drier ground, and to all appearance sufficiently elevated to
protect us from the flood should it increase: thither I determined
to remove in the morning, and to take such further measures as
might be deemed advisable in our present hazardous situation. Since
Mr. Evans re-crossed the river, we have had no rain in our
immediate neighbourhood sufficient to cause the sudden rise, which
therefore must be attributed to heavy falls among the mountains to
the east-south-east, from whence I have no doubt it derives its
source. It was most providential that Mr. Evans and his companions
crossed the river when they did; a single day might have proved
fatal to them. We would fain lessen to our own imagination the
dangers which surround us, and eagerly grasp at every circumstance
that tends in any way to enliven our future prospects. That
Providence, whose protection has hitherto been so beneficently
extended to us, will, we confidently hope, continue that
protection, and lead us in safety to our journey's end.</p>
<p>Owing most probably to the violent motion it experienced, my
chronometer stopped: this accident was the more to be lamented, as
the watch with which I was furnished by the crown had also stopped,
and we had now nothing to regulate our time by.</p>
<p>July 26.�We passed a dreadful night; the elements seemed
to be bursting asunder, and we were almost deluged with rain.
Towards noon the weather partially cleared tip. Our design of
moving was however rendered abortive: we found it impossible to
bring the horses near the tents to lade them, and the rain
recommencing with great violence, continued throughout the day. An
inmate of an alarming description took up its lodging in our tent
during the last night, probably washed out of its hole by the rain:
a large diamond snake was discovered coiled up among the flour
bags, four or five feet from the doctor's bed.</p>
<p>July 27.�This morning the weather cleared up just in time
to enable us to retreat to the river banks in safety, for we were
washed out of the tent. The provisions and heavy baggage were
carried by the people to a firmer spot of ground, at which place
the horses being lightly laden, we got every thing transported to
the river by one o'clock. Castlereagh River is certainly a stream
of great magnitude; its channel is divided by numerous islands
covered with trees: it measured in its narrowest part one hundred
and eighty yards, and the flood that had now risen in it was such
as to preclude any attempt to cross it. The outer banks were good
firm land, apparently free from floods, and extending not more on
this side than a quarter of a mile, when it became wet and marshy:
the banks were from twelve to seventeen feet high, and gradually
sloped to the water. The trees on this firm margin of land were a
species of eucalyptus, cypresses, and the sterculia heterophylla,
with a few casuarinae. This river doubtless discharges itself into
that interior gulf, in which the waters of the Macquarie are
merged: to that river it is in no respect inferior, and when the
banks are full, the body of water in it must be even still more
considerable. Towards evening I thought the waters were falling,
which was an event we anxiously looked for, to enable us to proceed
to Arbuthnot's Range, from the heights of which we hoped for an
interesting view. Natives appear to be numerous; their guniahs (or
bark-huts) are in every direction, and by their fire-places several
muscle-shells of the same kind as those found on the Lachlan and
Macquarie Rivers were seen. Game (kangaroos and emus), frequenting
the dry banks of the river, were procured in abundance.</p>
<p>July 28.�The river during the night had risen upwards of
eight feet; and still continued rising with surprising rapidity,
running at the rate of from five to six miles per hour, bringing
down with it great quantities of driftwood and other wreck. The
islands were all deeply covered, and the whole scene was peculiarly
grand and interesting. The sudden rise probably was caused by the
heavy rains of the preceding days; but great must be the sources
from whence so stupendous a body of water is supplied, and equally
grand must be that reservoir, which is capable of containing such
an accumulation of water as is derived from this and the Macquarie
Rivers; not to mention the supplies from the occasional streams
which had their sources in the marshes which we have crossed. The
water was so extremely thick and turbid, that we could not use it;
but were forced to send back to the marshes for what we wanted. At
night, the river seemed at its greatest height.</p>
<p>July 29.�The waters this day subsided rapidly. It is
evident that there has been no flood in the river for a very
considerable period prior to the present one, there being no marks
of wreck or rubbish on the trees or banks. Now the quantity of
matter is astonishing, and, such as must take some years to remove.
The rapid rise and fall in the water would seem to indicate that
neither its source nor its embouchure can be at any great distance.
The former is probably not far east of Arbuthnot's Range.</p>
<p>August 2.�It was not until this morning that the river had
fallen sufficiently to allow us to ford it. Though the morning was
unpromising with slight rain, it was not deemed prudent to lose a
moment in passing it, while in our power; and by one o'clock every
thing was safely over, to our great satisfaction. Before this, it
had begun to rain hard, and it continued to do so throughout the
day, and great part of the night. Our observations place this part
of Castlereagh River in lat. 31. 14. 14. S., long. 148. 18. E.,
variation 8. 14. E.</p>
<p>August 3.�A dark cloudy morning. At nine o'clock proceeded
on our eastern course towards Arbuthnot's Range. The river had
risen in the night so considerably, that had we delayed until this
morning, we should have been unable to pass it. The rain had
rendered the ground so extremely soft and boggy, that we found it
impossible to proceed above three-quarters of a mile on our eastern
course. We therefore returned, resolving to keep close to the
river's edge, until we should be enabled to sound the vein of
quagmire, with which we appeared to be hemmed in. In this attempt
we were equally unfortunate, the horses falling repeatedly: one
rolled into the river, and it was with difficulty we saved him: my
baggage was on him, and was entirely spoiled; the chart case and
charts were materially damaged, and our spare thermometer broken:
we therefore unladed the horses where they stood, and the men
carried the provisions to a firmer spot, where they were reladen.
We again proceeded easterly, and for upwards of a mile we travelled
up to our knees in water and mud: the horses were here stopped by
running waters from the marshes, encircling a spot of comparatively
dry ground; they were again unladen, and with the utmost difficulty
we got every thing safe over. Both men and horses were so much
exhausted by the constant labour they had undergone, that I
determined to halt, in order to restore our baggage to some order.
Our ardent hopes are fixed upon the high lands of Arbuthnot's
Range, which I estimate to be about twenty miles off. The
intermediate country, we fear, will be one continued morass.</p>
<p>August 4.�Proceeded on our journey. In the seven miles and
a half which we accomplished to-day, the water and bog were pretty
equally divided; and a plain covered with the former was a great
relief both to men and horses, since an apparently dry brush, or
forest, was found a certain forerunner of quicksands and bogs. The
natives appear pretty numerous: one was very daring, maintaining
his ground at a distance armed with a formidable jagged spear and
club, which he kept beating against each other, making the most
singular gestures and noises that can be imagined: he followed us
upwards of a mile, when he left us, joining several companions to
the right of us. Emus and kangaroos abound, and there is a great
diversity of birds, some of which have the most delightful notes,
particularly the thrush.</p>
<p>August 5.�At three o'clock we were obliged to give up all
attempts to proceed farther this day; it was with the utmost
difficulty we accomplished six miles: for the last half mile, the
horses were not on their legs for twenty yards together. This, too,
was in the middle of an apparently dry forest of iron bark and
cypress trees: the surface gave way but little to the human tread,
but the horses were scarcely on it before the water sprang at every
step, and the ground sank with them to their girths. In this
dilemma, it was agreed to rest for the night, and in the morning
endeavour to proceed to the nearest hill, which appeared to be
distant about two miles and a half, with very light loads upon the
best track we could find, and then return for the remainder of the
baggage and stores. A foreknowledge of the difficulties we should
have to encounter would certainly have prevented me from attempting
to reach these mountains; the nature of this country baffles all
reasonable expectation and conjecture, and that which appears one
thing at a distance, has a quite different form and aspect when
more nearly approached. Neither rivers, brushes, nor marshes, seem
to make the least difference in the vegetation of this singular
tract: a dreary uniformity pervades alike its geology and its
botany.</p>
<p>August 6.�At eight o'clock the horses set forward with
half the baggage; with considerable difficulty they at length
reached the hill, and were immediately sent back for the remainder
of the stores. The hill was about three miles from our camp, and
from it a view of Arbuthnot's Range was obtained, distant nine or
ten miles: its elevated points were extremely lofty, and of a dark,
barren, and gloomy appearance; the rocks were of a dark grey,
approaching to black, and from their crevices, a few stunted trees
protruded themselves. It was half past three o'clock before every
thing was removed to the foot of the hill, when it was much too
late to think of proceeding, anxious as we were to arrive at the
main range itself. We killed this day one of the largest kangaroos
we had seen in any part of New South Wales, being from one hundred
and fifty to one hundred and eighty pounds weight. These animals
live in flocks like sheep; and I do not exaggerate, when I say that
some hundreds were seen in the vicinity of this hill; it was
consequently named Kangaroo Hill: several beautiful little rills of
water have their source in it, but are soon lost in the
immeasurable morass at its base.</p>
<p>August 7.�About a mile from Kangaroo Hill, after crossing
a marshy plain, we came to a limestone rock, spreading in smaller
pieces over a low hill. It is somewhat remarkable, that this stone
should again be found precisely under the same meridian as seen on
the Lachlan and Macquarie Rivers: the same stratum appears to have
run from south to north, upwards of two hundred miles. This hill is
certainly its northern termination, since beyond it the low and
marshy plains of the interior commence. At one o'clock we arrived
under the hill which Mr. Evans had previously ascended: at this
spot I intended to remain a couple of days, as well to refresh the
horses, as for the purpose of ascending Mount Exmouth, from whence
I promised myself an extensive view of the country over which our
intended route lay. On ascending the hill before mentioned, I was
surprised with the remarkable effect which the situation appeared
to have on the compass. The station I had chosen was the highest
part, and nearly the centre of the hill; placing the compass on the
rock before me, the card flew round with extreme velocity, and then
suddenly settled at opposite points, the north point becoming the
south. Astonished at such a phenomenon, I made the following
observations. The compass on the rock, Mount Exmouth, bore S. 60.
W. (its true bearing being N. 75. E.), and on raising it gradually
to the eye, the card was violently agitated, and the same point now
bore N. 67. E. About one hundred yards farther south, the compass
was again placed on the rock; the effect on the compass was very
different, Mount Exmouth bore E. 48. S., and the tent in the valley
beneath S. 74. W. The card on raising the compass was rather less
agitated than before, and from the eye, Mount Exmouth bore N. 77.
E., and the tent S. 15. W., the true bearing of the latter being S.
13�. W. Thus the magnetic fluid seemed on this spot to have less
influence on the needle, than on the spot where its power was first
observed; and at a short distance from the base of the hill the
needle regained its natural position. The rocks, when broken, were
of a dark iron grey: they did not appear to contain any iron, for
when tried at the tent, the magnet had no power over them. I could
not discern any regular stratum of rock, the hill being covered
with large detached stones, many of which formed figures of five
and six sides: the evening was too far advanced to permit any
farther observations to be made.<sup>[*]</sup> Observed the
variation of the needle by azimuth, to be 6. 22. E.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* The island of Cannay, one of the Hebrides,
affects the needle in a nearly similar manner. A rock in it is
named The Loadstone Rock.]</p>
<p>August 8.�We set off early this morning to ascend Mount
Exmouth, distant four or five miles: at its base we crossed a
pretty stream of water, having its source in the Mount; it took us
nearly two hours of hard labour to ascend its rugged summits: we
were however amply gratified for our trouble by the extensive
prospect we had of the surrounding country. Directing our view to
the west, Mount Harris and Mount Forster, whose elevations do not
exceed from two to three hundred feet, were distinctly seen at a
distance of eighty-nine miles. These two spots excepted, from the
south to the north it was a vast level, resembling the ocean in
extent and appearance. From east-north-east to south, the country
was broken and irregular; lofty hills arising from the midst of
lesser elevations, their summits crowned with perpendicular rocks,
in every variety of shape and form that the wildest imagination
could paint. To this grand and picturesque scenery, Mount Exmouth
presented a perpendicular front of at least one thousand feet high,
when its descent became more gradual to its base in the valley
beneath, its total elevation being little less than three thousand
feet. To the north-east commencing at N. 33. E., and extending to
N. 51. E., a lofty and magnificent range of hills was seen lifting
their blue heads above the horizon. This range was honoured with
the name of the Earl of Hardwicke, and was distant on a medium from
one hundred to one hundred and twenty miles: its highest elevations
were named respectively Mount Apsley, and Mount Shirley. The
country between Mount Exmouth and this bounding range was broken
into rugged hills, and apparently deep valleys, and several minor
ranges of hills also appeared. The high lands from the east and
south-east gradually lessened to the north-west, when they were
lost in the immense levels, which bound the interior abyss of this
singular country; the gulf in which both water and mountain seem to
be as nothing. Mount Exmouth seems principally composed of
iron-stone; and some of the richest ore I had yet seen was found
upon it. On its sides were many different stones; but its
perpendicular cliffs were of a dark bluish grey colour, shining
when broken, very heavy, and close grained. Mount Harris, and Mount
Exmouth, are composed of distinct materials, and in their formation
bear not the slightest resemblance to each other; the granite of
the former being more allied to the hills to the south-south-east
of it, from which however it is distant at least one hundred miles,
a perfect level filling up the intermediate space. Many new, and
otherwise interesting subjects of the indigenous botany were
discovered on the hills: among which were a species of persoonia,
not previously observed, some xanthorrhaeae or grass trees, and two
or three coast plants. The heteromorphous sterculia of the
interior, and some species of eucalyptus of very stunted growth
covered its sides, which however for a considerable distance were
not deficient in grass. Sandstone was found in large masses in the
rivulet at its base, with pebbles of various colours, and of
species none of which was found on the mount itself. It was near
four o'clock before we returned to the tent, highly gratified with
our excursion.</p>
<p>August 9.�In the course of the day, I again ascended
Loadstone Hill, and repeated the experiments made on Friday, with
the same results. Several different stations on the summit were
tried, and the needle was variously affected; the spot where the
phenomenon was first observed seemed to have the greatest effect on
the needle. A common sewing needle was strongly rubbed with a
magnet, and balanced on the point of the rock, when it was much
agitated, and the point flew round from the north to the south. The
needle of the circumferenter, taken out of the box, was affected in
a similar manner, only that when balanced on the rock, the fluid
did not possess sufficient power to turn the point more than one
point of the circle instead of quite round, as when balanced in the
compass box. A compound magnet was laid on the rock, and applied to
it in different ways, but it did not seem in any manner affected by
the power which had so surprised us with its effect on the compass.
The weather within the last week has become perceptibly warmer: the
thermometer being seldom under 70 degrees at noon. The fires of the
natives were seen at no great distance from us; and they seem to
attend upon our motions pretty closely. The observations made here
placed us in lat. 31. 13. S., long. 148. 41. 30. E., and I estimate
the mean variation to be about 7� easterly. We found that no
reliance could be placed on bearings taken with the compass on
heights in this vicinity, and I am fearful that the bearings taken
from Mount Exmouth will require verification, a difference of 4
degrees being observed in some, when compared with other bearings,
which could not be supposed to be affected by the magnetic
fluid.</p>
<p>August 10.�Proceeded on our journey: our course for the
first six or seven miles being to the north-north-east, and
afterwards north-east half east, which latter course I intended to
steer for some time. It was the best day's travelling we had
experienced since quitting the Macquarie River, being generally
over low strong ridges, the sides and summits of some of which were
very thick brush of cypress trees, and small shrubs, particularly
the last two miles. We stopped for the evening in an extensive low
valley north of Mount Exmouth, and running under its base, bounded
on the north-east by low forest hills. To the south the hills were
rocky, abrupt, and precipitous. On the whole we accomplished eleven
miles.</p>
<p>August 11.�Our route lay over low valleys of considerable
extent of open forest ground, but so soft and boggy, that it was
with difficulty we made any progress: it would seem that much rain
had fallen here lately, and completely saturated the soil, which is
a light, sandy mould. In these valleys there are small streams of
water, having their origin in the surrounding hills; they all
terminate northerly. We could accomplish but seven miles on a
north-east by east course. In the evening we had an awful storm of
thunder and lightning, accompanied with torrents of rain. The
reverberation of sound among the hills was astonishing. The natives
continue in our vicinity unheeded, and unheeding: even the noise of
their mogo upon the trees is a relief from the otherwise utter
loneliness of feeling we cannot help experiencing in these desolate
wilds.</p>
<p>August 12.�We found that we could not maintain our direct
course, as the low ground was so boggy, that the horses were
altogether unable to move on it. Keeping therefore the banks of the
little stream where the ground was firmer, we reached the chain of
hills bounding the valley to the southward: we wound along the base
of the hills on a variety of courses, not being able to quit them
twenty yards without being bogged. Finding that the hills trended
too much to the south-west, we kept down the bed of a small stream
for two or three miles, and halted on a fine apple tree flat of
rich land, watered by a very fine small stream, which was joined by
the one we came down. The main strewn ran to the northward. The
apple tree flats are uniformly of firm hard ground, while the soil
on which grow the iron-bark, pine, and box, is as invariably a
loose sand, rendered by the rain a perfect quicksand. These bogs
are the more provoking, as without such impediments the country is
clear and open, and as favourable for travelling over as could be
wished: we have had any thing but a dry season, and it is to the
heavy rain which might naturally be expected to fall near high
mountains, that our present difficulties must be ascribed. We
travelled between nine and ten miles, but our course made good was
nearly south-east only five miles. A few new plants were found: the
hills were a mere bed of iron ore.</p>
<p>August 13.�We proceeded at our usual hour; and did not
halt till near sunset, but accomplished no more than six miles, in
the course of which the horses were obliged to be unladen, and the
men carried the loads upwards of half a mile before the horses
could be got across the quicksands. They are indeed properly so
termed, consisting of two or three inches of light mould, on about
eighteen inches of loose sand, the whole covering a rocky or stony
bottom. On treading on them, water would fly up several inches; and
it was with difficulty men could pass over them, much less horses.
Quicksands of a similar nature prevented our reaching a small creek
running under a high craggy ridge of hills; we therefore stopped at
the edges of them, every body completely worn out. The appearance
of the country passed over was most desolate and forbidding, but
quite open, interspersed with miserable rocky crags, on which grew
the cypress and eucalyptus. On the more level portions of the
country, a new and large species of eucalyptus, and another of its
genus (the iron bark), were the principal if not the only trees.
Many of the rocks were pointed and basaltic, but the general
species was a coarse sandstone. Miserable as the country was in
other respects, it was fruitful in new plants.</p>
<p>August 14.�As it rained hard during the night, and the
rain still continued to fall in thick showers, I thought it
advisable to rest.</p>
<p>August 15.�Cloudy, with strong winds from the south-east.
We crossed the creek about two miles from our resting-place, but
soon found that any attempt to advance in that quarter would be
abortive, the morass and quicksands extending into the very water,
and denying all egress. We therefore recrossed the rivulet about a
mile more northerly with better success, and succeeded in gaining
some stony hills, which, with two or three intervening marshy
valleys, continued for the rest of the day's route; the latter part
being up very high, rocky, barren hills, with narrow defiles. From
these heights we descended into a pretty valley of considerable
extent, and, to our great joy, of sound, firm soil, with plenty of
good grass: the water however was strongly impregnated with iron,
so that we could hardly drink it. This valley, which we named
Wiltden Valley, was enclosed on all sides except the north, by
lofty, rocky hills of coarse sandstone, adorned with various
species of acacia in full bloom, with a vast variety of other
flowering shrubs of the most beautiful and delicate description,
adding greatly to our botanical collection. We accomplished in the
whole twelve or thirteen miles, about six of which were in the
direction of our proper course.</p>
<p>August 16.�We had hardly begun to lade the horses, when
the rain recommenced with greater violence than in the night, and
effectually prevented us from proceeding. The country presents
sufficient obstructions to our progress, not to render the delay
caused by a day's rain a matter of much inquietude. The loss of
time is of little consideration, when compared with the soft and
boggy ground which such heavy falls leave. A species of banksia was
seen to-day under the same meridian as on the Macquarie. It would
seem that particular productions of the vegetable as well as of the
mineral kingdom run in veins nearly north and south through the
country. This peculiarity has been remarked of other plants,
besides the species of banksia.</p>
<p>August 17.�Our course this day led us over a barren, rocky
country, consisting of low stony ranges, divided by valleys of pure
sand, and usually wet and marshy: latterly we appear to be
descending from a considerable height, to a lower country to the
north-east. The whole was a mere scrub covered with dwarf iron
barks, apple trees, and small gums; the soil scarcely any thing but
sand, on which grass grew in single detached roots. The horses fell
repeatedly in the course of the day, and they were now so weak that
they sank at every soft place. Between four and five o'clock, after
travelling about ten hours, we stopped at a small drain of water
for the night, having accomplished nearly eleven miles. In our
track we saw no signs of natives, and the country seemed abandoned
of every living thing. Silence and desolation reigned around.</p>
<p>August 18.�It is impossible to describe in adequate
language the different trying obstructions we encountered during
this day's journey: after meeting and overcoming many minor
difficulties of bog and quicksand, we had accomplished nearly
eleven miles, and were looking out for a place to rest, when we
entered a very thick forest of small iron barks which had been
lately burnt; and their black stems and branches, with the dull
bluish colour of their foliage, gave the whole a singularly dismal
and gloomy appearance. So thick was the forest that we could hardly
turn our horses, nor could the sun's rays penetrate to the sandy
desert on which these trees grew. Without the usual appearances of
a bog, our horses were in an instant up to their bellies, and the
difficulties we had in extricating them would hardly obtain belief.
In this dilemma, scarcely able to see which way to turn, we
traversed the margin of this extensive quicksand for nearly three
miles in a direction contrary to our course, before we could find
firm ground or water for the horses, which we did not effect till
sunset; and then (as for the last three days) there was nothing for
them to eat but prickly grass, which possesses no nourishing
qualities. This fare, after their hard labour, reduces them
daily.</p>
<p>August 19.�After wandering about the whole day without
gaining any thing on our course, for the quicksands kept us
revolving as it were in a circle, the exhaustion of the horses
obliged us to stop. It was painful to behold them, after being
disencumbered of their loads, lay themselves down like dogs about
us: it was the fourth day that they had been without grass, and
they preferred the tender branches of shrubs, etc., to the prickly
grass. The backs of the greater part of them were, notwithstanding
every care, dreadfully galled, so that they could, when first
saddled, scarcely stand under their burdens. These quicksands lie
in the hollows between the low irregular hills, which rise on this
otherwise level country: their point of discharge is uniformly
north-westerly. The union of many of these minor drains forms
occasionally a large one, and the points of the hills which meet
upon them afford the only means of crossing them. It was evident
that the early part of the winter had been very wet., and the late
rains had probably been the cause of these morasses, which still
continued to drain themselves off in running water. This region
must at all times be impassable from opposite causes: in wet
seasons it is a bog; in dry ones, there is no water. Finding, as
above remarked, that northerly and north-east the country declined
as it were to nothing, it was resolved to pursue a more easterly
course than that hitherto followed; and instead of attempting to go
round the morasses which we might meet with to the north, to follow
them southerly, a course which in time must certainly take us to a
more elevated country. Such a road is rendered now absolutely
necessary by the condition of the horses. Our dogs, which had so
long contributed to our support, had been for the last four days
dependant upon us for theirs, and we were too much indebted to
their exertions not to share our meals with them with cheerfulness.
These woods abound with kangaroo rats, and it is singular that,
pinched as the dogs were, they would not touch them even when
cooked.</p>
<p>August 20.�This day after travelling upwards of nine
miles, and having pushed the horses at the risk of their lives
through two minor branches of the bog, what was our mortification
to find, that we were within a few hundred yards of the spot we set
out from! We had first attempted to cross the main bog northerly,
and afterwards kept along its edge southerly; and the result was,
that we found it to extend in a complete circle around us. From a
slight rise in the centre of it, we could see the country to the
north-east, north, and north-west, low and uneven; Hardwicke's
Range distant about forty miles, bounding it between the north and
east. The result of this day's exertion quite subdued our
fortitude, and for a moment a feeling nearly allied to despair had
possession of our minds. We knew not which way to turn ourselves.
To return to Arbuthnot's Range, and again undergo what it had cost
us so much to overcome, could not be thought of for a moment; but
upon that mature reflection which our serious situation demanded,
it was deemed the most prudent plan to return so far back as would
enable us to reach the higher lands to the south-east. This we
expected to do by Saturday evening: twenty miles back we had left
land of considerable elevation; and we could only hope that in its
vicinity we should find a dry ridge on which to accomplish our
purpose, and occasionally a patch of country in which the horses
might find subsistence; for they were at present very much
reduced.</p>
<p>August 23.�We returned yesterday to Parry's Rivulet,
within twelve miles of Weltden Valley, which was the whole distance
we had gone in the direction of our course towards the coast,
although we had travelled during the week upwards of seventy miles.
The weather for the last four days has been extremely tempestuous,
with slight showers of hail and rain: the winds were chiefly from
the west and north-west, the temperature being extremely cold for
the latitude and season. The observations of to-day place this
station in lat. 30. 57. 20., long. 149. 20. E. Variation 8. 42.
E.</p>
<p>August 24.�We were a little surprised at finding that a
severe frost had taken place during the night, and that the
thermometer was now as low as 28 degrees. Ice lay within a few
yards of our fire, of the thickness of a dollar. Our course
throughout the day was southerly, and led us up the banks of
Parry's Rivulet. We experienced fewer difficulties than on any day
since we had entered this desert, and accomplished between nine and
ten miles, at the end of which we entered a small valley of good
forest ground with tolerable grass; though early in the day, the
horses needed refreshment too much, not to induce me to stop here
for the remainder of it: as we could not at the utmost have gone
above two miles farther. This valley, and the appearance of forest
hills to the southward, gave us strong hopes that by continuing our
present course for a day or two longer we should get into a better
line of country, and be enabled to resume our easterly course.
Parry's Rivulet was here a series of large ponds, near which were
traces of natives, but of old date. In this desert, we have never
met with any signs that can lead us to believe it has ever been
before crossed by any human being.</p>
<p>August 25.�A smart frost during the night: the morning
fine and clear. At eight o'clock we proceeded on our route, taking
a more easterly direction according to circumstances. Between three
and four miles from our camp, we had an extensive view to the east
and south-east, and saw with extreme satisfaction a lofty chain of
fine forest hills thinly timbered, bearing east-south-east of us;
and distant fourteen or fifteen miles. To the east were extensive
flats, bare of timber, and apparently either composed of white
sand, or covered with dead grass; our distance would not enable us
to distinguish which: these flats were bounded by remote rising
hills seemingly clear and open. A high peak, bearing north, was
named Kerr's Peak; and a very lofty mount, under which the west
extremity of the plains lay, was named Mount Tetley: and the
westernmost remarkable hill in the chain first mentioned, Whitwell
Hill. The bogginess and ruggedness of our route, for the remainder
of the day, sufficiently tried our strength: we accomplished
however thirteen miles, and halted in a small valley about four
miles south of Whitwell Hill. This valley was bounded east and west
by rocky hills, but the soil was better, and the grass of good
quality. The base of these hills was of close-grained
white-coloured granite, or whinstone: the summits of good
freestone: on the sides several good pieces of iron ore were picked
up.</p>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="image-7-4" id="image-7-4"></a><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0014.jpg"></p>
<p class="caption">Liverpool Plains. West Prospect from View
Hill</p>
<p>August 26.�While Mr. Evans proceeded with the horses on an
eastern course for Mount Tetley, Dr. Harris and myself went towards
the spacious valley at the foot of Whitwell Hill. This we soon
reached, and travelled down its centre, along the banks of a
beautiful stream of water which fertilized and drained it. The
extent of this valley towards the south-west, we could not
discover, as its windings were lost among the forest hills in that
direction. We went down to the east between seven and eight miles,
when we rejoined the horses at the base of an elevated conical
hill, standing detached at its east entrance, which was here four
or five miles wide. On ascending this hill, the view which was on
all sides presented to our delighted eyes was of the most varied
and exhilarating kind. Hills, dales, and plains of the richest
description lay before us, bounded to the east by fine hills,
beyond which were seen elevated mountains. To the north-east an
extensive valley, from eight to ten miles wide, led to Hardwicke's
Range, being a distance of about thirty-five miles. In this great
valley were numerous low hills and plains, thinly studded with
timber, and watered by the stream, down the banks of which we had
travelled. From its eastern side, these low hills gradually rose to
a loftier elevation: but were still thinly timbered, and covered
with grass. To the east-south-east, and south-east, clear plains
extended to the foot of very lofty forest hills, at a medium
distance of from twenty-five to forty miles. These were the plains
seen on our yesterday's route, and which we feared were sand. We
found them to consist of a rich dry vegetable soil; and although,
from their vast extent, they may, as a whole, be properly
denominated plains, yet their surfaces were slightly broken into
gentle eminences with occasional clumps, and lines of timber. Their
white appearance was occasioned by the grass having been burnt
early in the year, and the young growth killed by the frosts. The
little rivulet, that watered the north-west side of this track of
country, had overflowed within these few days; but the ground left
by the retreating waters was as firm and solid, as those parts
which had not been touched. The sides of the hills were of the same
black mould, stony towards their summits, and the higher eminences
rocky. The rocks were of a very hard whinstone, the stratum nearly
perpendicular, or rather standing up in regular basaltic figures,
similar to those on Loadstone Hill. These valleys and hills abound
with kangaroos, and on the plains numbers of emus were seen. We
seemed to be once more in the land of plenty, and the horses as
well as men had cause to rejoice at the change, from the miserable
harassing deserts through which we had been struggling for the last
six weeks, to this beautiful and fertile country. From the hill on
which we stood, bearings were taken to the most remarkable points
and objects connected with the survey; and the most distinguished,
in point of beauty or singularity of appearance, were honoured with
distinctive appellations. The valley down which we had travelled
was called Lushington's Valley (after the Secretary to His
Majesty's Treasury); the extensive one to the north-east, leading
to Hardwicke's Range, Camden Valley (after the noble Marquis); the
plains to the east and south-east were honoured with the name of
Lord Liverpool; the hills bounding Lushington's Valley, on the
south side, Vansittart's Hills, after the Chancellor of the
Exchequer; while several less remarkable hills were designated
after persons endeared to our recollections by early friendship. A
great variety of new plants rewarded the exertions of our botanist,
in ascending Mount Tetley; and many, hitherto only known on the
coast, were discovered on the hills and in the valleys: the acacia
pendula was also seen; it had hitherto been the usual
characteristic of wet lands, but it was here growing on the most
dry and elevated situations. The timber on the plains and hills was
chiefly those species of eucalyptus called apple tree, box, and gum
trees; and on the banks of the rivulet were a few large casuarina.
So much time was consumed in ascending hills and examining the
country, that we did not go more than ten miles on a direct course:
it was however time well bestowed. Three native fires were seen in
Lushington's Valley, but the whole of this part of the country
appears to be very thinly inhabited; a few wandering families
making up the total of its population. The small rivulet in
Lushington's Valley was named Yorke's Rivulet, in honour of Sir J.
S. Yorke.</p>
<p>August 27.�Pursuing our course to the eastward, towards
the range of low hills bordering the plains in that quarter,
between five and six miles, we came to a fine stream of water,
crossing the plains from the south to the north. There had been a
flood in this rivulet within these few days, marks of which were
observed about fifteen feet high; but still within the banks. It
appears that the plains are chiefly flooded from Yorke's Rivulet,
the remaining waters of which, together with rain-water, were in
several places still standing on the surface; but not to the extent
that the horizontal level of these plains would have led me to
suppose would probably be the case. The far greater portion was a
rich dry soil, and that the water is never permanent on any part of
them is clearly demonstrated by the total absence of any aquatic or
bog plants. From this rivulet, the three main branches of these
immense plains were clearly visible to the east by
south-south-east, and north-east. Of the extent of the two former,
we could only judge from the lofty bounding chains of hills in
those quarters; and which we could not estimate to be nearer than
from forty-five to fifty miles. Hardwicke's Range bounded these to
the north-east, with many intervening beautiful hills and valleys.
We found the distance across the plains to the hill where we
stopped, to be upwards of fourteen miles on an east line. Chains
and ridges of low forest hills, which gradually rise from the
horizontal level, are scattered over these plains, and stand for
the most part detached like islands; varying the scenery in a most
picturesque manner, as they are generally clothed with wood of
apple tree, cypress, and other species of eucalyptus, intermingled
with various acacias in full flower. Mr. Evans ascended Mount
Tetley to take bearings from it. He found the compass to be
affected in a similar manner to that remarked on Loadstone Hill;
the north point of it when placed on the rock, becoming the south.
This remarkable alteration of the needle was also observed on
several other hills in this vicinity, but in a less degree; the
bearings generally varying from two to three points from the truth.
On the hill under which we stopped this evening, named View Hill,
the needle varied three points. In consequence of the heavy rains
and recent floods, travelling on many parts of these plains was
very heavy; the soil being a rick loose loam, of a dark red
approaching to a black colour, but of great apparent fertility and
strength: some hundreds of kangaroos and emus were seen in the
course of the day. We killed several, the dogs being absolutely
fatigued with slaughter: the game was by no means shy, but came
close up to us, as if to examine us. Indeed I do not think they are
much disturbed by natives, of whom we have seen few signs in this
neighbourhood. The stream crossing the plains was named Bowen's
Rivulet, in honour of Commissioner Bowen, of the Navy Board.</p>
<p>August 28.�The season continues to get warm and sultry. We
pursued an east-north-east course during our day's journey, leading
us through a fine open forest country generally level in the
direction of our course, but rising into forest hills to the north
and south of us. At eight miles, ascending from this level, we saw
the great plains which extend along the line of our course, and are
separated from us by a rich open country of hill and vale, distant
four or five miles. A branch from these plains led to the
north-east across our course, and was distant five or six miles. We
proceeded in the whole ten miles, and stopped in a pretty forest
valley, with plenty of water and good grass. The stones composing
the hills were very various, sometimes different species of
granite, then sandstone, and on others loose slate. On View Hill we
found particularly rich iron stone. The soil was uniformly good,
and covered with grass; the country by no means thickly timbered,
chiefly with box, and a few cypresses.</p>
<p>August 29.�On our departure we almost immediately
descended a rocky and steep hill, covered with cypress and small
brush; from thence we descended upon a level forest country, which
continued for the remainder of our journey (seven and a half
miles), to the edge of the extensive flat which we had seen
yesterday. As we should not have been able to cross it before
nightfall, I thought it better to remain where there was plenty of
grass and water. From our tent we had a singularly picturesque and
pleasing prospect. To the north, Hardwicke's Range, distant between
forty and fifty miles: the country broken into low forest hills and
plains to its base. To the north-east, east, and south-east, our
view was bounded by beautiful forest hills seldom rising to any
great elevation, thinly wooded, and covered with grass. These hills
bounded the plains, and varied in distance from ten to thirty
miles. To the north-east the country was lowest, but appeared good
and open: that part of the plain near which we encamped was wet and
marshy; and the horizontal level of the whole appeared to warrant
the supposition that at some (perhaps not distant) period, these
vast plains formed chains of inland lakes, which the washings from
the hills have now nearly filled up; as the water at present does
not exceed a few inches in depth, and is only partially spread on
the surface, forming but a moderate proportion of the whole. In dry
seasons there is evidently none: the hills passed over this day
were of a curious species of pudding-stone and freestone. The hills
on the opposite side of the plains were named Melville Hills, in
honour of the first Lord of the Admiralty; and the valley at the
extremity of it leading to Hardwicke's Range, Barrow's Valley,
after one of the secretaries of that board.</p>
<p>August 30.�A day of rest and refreshment to ourselves and
horses. Game abounds, and our dogs abundantly supply us. The
observations made here, place our situation in lat. 31. 7., long.
150. 10. E.</p>
<p>August 31.�We were agreeably disappointed, in finding that
the wet marshy ground did not extend above three quarters of a
mile, the remainder being dry firm land of the richest description:
at six miles we crossed a considerable stream, running to the north
through Barrow's Valley: this stream, divided the plain into nearly
two equal parts, it being ten miles and a half across. This stream
had been very recently flooded, and the water, yet muddy, had not
subsided within its proper level; the height of the banks from
fifteen to twenty feet. On the east side of the plain, we found the
marsh extend about one mile and a quarter from the forest ground
which borders it; though wet, it was now strong ground, and might
easily be laid dry. On quitting the plains we entered a very fine
open forest flat, through which we proceeded a mile and a half, and
encamped for the evening under a lofty hill named Mount Dundas, by
a small spring of excellent water. Ascending this mountain, we
found that the country in the line of our course was high, broken
forest land, the easternmost ranges of which (distant from
thirty-five to forty miles) appeared to have a stream running under
them, by reason of the thick haze which rose from the valley
beneath. To the north bending round to the north-east, the country
was beautifully picturesque, consisting of low, open forest hills,
bounded by higher chains of hills that formed the southern side of
the spacious valley under Hardwicke's Range; through which I no
longer doubted that a considerable stream had its course, since all
the waters we had hitherto crossed ran in that direction. A great
many smokes, arising from the fires of the natives, were seen to
the north-east and north. To the south-east, south, and south-west,
our view extended over that vast tract of level champaign country
intermingled with hills, sometimes rising into lofty peaks, as has
already been described. The abundance of game, such as emus, and
kangaroos, and of wild ducks on the stream, was wonderful: our dogs
after severe battles killed two emus, who however tore one of them
very dangerously. We called the river which divided and watered the
plain Field's River, in honour of the Judge of the Supreme
Court.</p>
<p>September 1.�We pursued our course to the east-north-east,
winding through rich valleys bounded by lofty forest hills for
seven miles; when by a gentle descent we entered a rich and
spacious vale, bounded on the east by very high hills, and on the
west by others less elevated. At twelve miles we stopped at some
ponds near the centre of the vale. The hills were very stony, of
various species�granite, freestone, and pudding-stone; they
were however well covered with grass, and quite clear and open; the
valleys and levels excellent, with good timber, chiefly apple tree,
box, and gum. On the higher ridges of the hills, and occasionally
on their sides, were many fine cypresses: there was nothing grand
or imposing in the scenery; but it was simple and attractive from
its richness and extent: the hills sometimes rose into singular
forms which were continually changing in our progress, and appeared
well calculated to afford an ample range of sheep pasture. The
extensive vale in which we stopped was named Goulburn Vale, in
honour of the under Secretary of State for the colonies.</p>
<p>September 2.�Our expectations of finding a river to the
eastward, were this day verified: after passing for eleven miles
across this beautiful vale, we came to a deep and rapid stream
running to the north, through the valley whose eastern side it
waters: finding it too deep to be forded, we constructed a bridge
across a narrow part of it, by felling such large trees as would
meet, by which the baggage was taken over: the horses were swum
across. One of the men, foolishly attempting to swim over on a
horse, nearly paid for his imprudence with his life: as he could
not swim, he was carried down the stream near a quarter of a mile,
and was several minutes under water. His body being providentially
washed across a log, was the means of his preservation. It was late
in the afternoon before our passage across was effected, so that we
halted on the banks. This was the largest interior river (with the
exception of the Macquarie and Castlereagh), which we had yet seen.
It would be impossible to find a finer or more luxuriant country
than it waters: north and south, its extent is unknown, but it is
certainly not less than sixty miles, whilst the breadth of the vale
is on a medium about twenty miles. This space between the bounding
hills is not altogether level, but rises into gentle inequalities,
and independently of the river is well watered; the grass was most
luxuriant; the timber good and not thick: in short, no place in the
world can afford more advantages to the industrious settler, than
this extensive vale. The river was named Peel's River, in honour of
the Right Hon. Robert Peel. A great many new plants were found
to-day and yesterday, chiefly of the orchis tribe:[*] we saw
numbers of the ornithorynchus, or water mole, in the river, also a
few turtle: we were not successful in obtaining any fish, so that
we were unable to decide whether it contained the same species as
the Macquarie.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* Orchideae of Juss. and Brown.]</p>
<p>September 3.�After passing over a fine and gently rising
country for between four and five miles, we ascended a very lofty
chain of hills, being the eastern boundary of Goulburn Vale; these
hills were of good soil, and covered with excellent grass to their
very summits. Ascending two of the highest ridges, several circular
orifices were observed on them about twelve feet in diameter, and
five feet deep. Great quantities of small stones resembling
basaltes were in heaps round the edges, at a little distance from
which the stones were perpendicular, and firmly bedded in the
earth; many of them regular six-sided figures, and all fractured
into laminae, from two to nine inches in thickness. The rocks upon
this range were of a peculiarly hard quality, and of a deep blue
colour, approaching to black when broken. The country easterly
appeared broken into a series of rocky detached hills: and on
descending this range, we found an immediate change in the quality
of the soil, being in the valleys of a light coarse sand, the
surface covered with gritty particles as from pulverised coarse
granite. The difference in the rocks composing the hills was here
very remarkable, being a very coarse granite of the same
description as in the neighbourhood of Bathurst, scattered in
immense masses both in the valleys and on the hills; and our
astonishment was more than once excited at the causes which could
have effected their removal from their primitive bed. On a hill
near which we encamped, was a single mass of granite apparently
thrown up perpendicularly from the bosom of the earth: it was
twenty-six feet high and had six distinct sides, ending in an
irregular point at the summit, and was forty-eight feet in
circumference. The valleys, though sandy, afforded us plenty of
good grass and water, and the hills furnished abundant employment
for the botanical collector.</p>
<p>September 4.�After leaving the valley in which we
encamped, we entered one much more extensive, and communicating
with Goulburn Vale. Between five and six miles on our route, we
reached a beautiful small river coming from the eastward and
joining Peel's River, of which it appears to be a principal branch.
For the remainder of the day's journey, we proceeded up the fine
valley which this stream watered, bounded on the north and south by
lofty and fertile hills covered with rich herbage, having numerous
smaller valleys and streams terminating in this principal valley.
The whole scenery was thinly clothed with wood, and occasionally a
bold craggy promontory terminating at the river gave it a
diversity, which its general softness of feature or outline
required: there were no principal ranges of hills, but they broke
in and upon each other, forming the utmost variety of shape. The
rocks and stones which composed the bases and summits of these
hills, were not less various than their form: scarcely two were
alike. Granite, coarse porphyry, freestone, and whinstone were
frequently found on the same hill, and the beds of the streams were
of every variety of pebble. This fine stream received the name of
Cockburn River.</p>
<p>September 5.�Our course this day sometimes led us over
very elevated ridges, and at other times through deep and rich
valleys. Some of these hills were at least three thousand feet in
height, and clothed with grass to their summits. Others of the less
elevated were entirely free from rocks, and of the finest soil. The
timber chiefly box, with some few trees of another species of
eucalyptus called stringy bark, and cypress. A number of small
streams watered the deep valleys to the north and south, falling
into Cockburn River. Large quantities of quartz were in various
places, as also good flint, which was found in large masses in the
bed of Cockburn River, and also in small pieces on the hills. This
was the second flint that has been discovered in New South Wales.
We halted in a small and beautiful valley near Cockburn River,
after having accomplished nine miles.</p>
<p>September 6.�A day of rest. The observations place this
station in lat. 31. 04. 35 S., long. 151. 05. 30. E., variation 9.
58. E.</p>
<p>September 7.�The morning clear and fine. At half past
seven o'clock we proceeded on our journey: in the whole course of
it, we never experienced more precipitous travelling than during
the first six miles. Travellers, less accustomed to meet
difficulties, might perhaps have been a little alarmed at
traversing such steep and shelving hills, the loose stones on which
added to the insecurity of our footing. Nevertheless we found it
extremely pleasant, from the romantic beauty of the scenery and the
freshness of the verdure. We had been ascending an extremely
elevated country for the last thirty miles; and I was in great
hopes of soon reaching the point of division between the eastern
and western waters. By a tolerably easy acclivity, we gained that
which I took to be the highest of these congregated hills, in hopes
it might possibly lead into a main range. From its summit we had a
very extensive prospect over the country we had left, and also to
the southward, in which direction the land appeared broken and
hilly, and but thinly clothed with timber. To the east and
north-east it appeared far less broken, and certainly less elevated
than the ridge we were on. This ridge soon expanded to a broad
surface of open forest land, and proceeding on it to the east about
a mile, we perceived in the valley beneath us a considerable and
rapid stream running to the north, and afterwards apparently taking
a more easterly direction. A more remarkable change in the outward
appearance of a country was perhaps never before witnessed. In less
than a mile, the timber had entirely changed from the bastard box
to another kind of eucalyptus, called common blue gum, which grew
in great luxuriance in the country before us. Until now this
species had never been seen except on the immediate banks of
running streams. In the course of the day, great quantities of fine
stringy bark were also seen. The soil, instead of the light black
mould, which had been the general covering of the country, was now
changed to a stiff tenacious clay; and although well clothed with
grass, its less luxuriant growth evidently showed the difference of
soil not to be favourable. From this hill or range we descended
very gradually for nearly two miles to the river before seen, and
up the banks of which we proceeded about a mile farther, when we
halted for the evening. The country was perfectly open, though much
covered with fallen timber; the banks of the river sloping and
quite clear of timber; and being within one hundred miles of the
sea coast, I had a strong belief that we had descended from the
highest land, and that we should meet with no dividing ranges in
the course of our future progress. It is impossible to form any
certain conclusion at present, as to the course taken by this
stream. Whether it finds its way to the coast, or is lost like the
other streams of this country, will, I think, in a great measure
depend upon the fact of our having crossed the highest ranges of
the country. One of the men who had taken the dogs out after
kangaroos fell in with a party of natives, among whom were some
women and children. Two of the men accompanied him to the tent. It
was evident from the whole tenor of their behaviour that they had
previously heard of white people (most probably from the settlement
at New Castle); their appearance was most miserable, their features
approached deformity, and their persons were disgustingly filthy:
their small attenuated limbs seemed scarcely able to support their
bodies; and their entire person formed a marked contrast to the
fine and manly figures of their brethren in the interior. We gave
them a small turtle which we had just caught in the river, and they
sat down to dress it instantly. In fact, their cooking was very
simple; the fire soon separated the shell from the meat, which with
the entrails was devoured in a few minutes. Some of the people went
to visit their camp, where they found eight or ten men, but the
women and children were sent away. The same jealousy of women
exists throughout the interior. The great number of fallen trees
was in some measure accounted for by the men observing about a
dozen trees on fire near this camp, no doubt the more easily to
expel the opossums, rats, and other vermin which inhabit their
hollows. We were not successful with our lines, though the depth
and breadth of the river had made us a little sanguine. There did
not appear any great marks of flood; none was seen exceeding five
feet in height, which led us to conclude its source was not very
distant. This river was named Sydney, as we this day crossed the
meridian of that town.</p>
<p>September 8.�We proceeded up Sydney River to the
south-east about three miles before we could find a convenient
Place to Cross, as the stream ran with great rapidity over a rocky
bottom. The country on either side sloped to the river with gradual
declension, and was an open forest country. On crossing the river,
we passed through some noble forests of stringy bark, growing
generally on the sides and ridges of stony barren hills: thew
forests extended above two miles from the east of the river., after
which the country became perfectly open, and of a level, or rather
alternately rising surface. To the north and north-east the river
was beautiful, the same description of country extending as far as
the eye could reach, with no elevated points or ridges to obstruct
it. Indeed I am clearly of opinion, that if we had kept a more
northerly course from Lushington Valley, we should have avoided the
rugged though fine country we have passed through for the last two
days. The determination of all the hills and slopes is northerly,
and the rivers which we have crossed have also taken the same
direction. We proceeded about nine miles farther through the finest
open country, or rather park, imaginable; the general quality of
the soil excellent, though of a strong and more tenacious
description than farther westerly. We halted in a fine and spacious
valley, where art, so far as it is an auxiliary of beauty, would
have been detrimental to the fresher and simpler garb of nature.
This valley was watered by a fine brook, and at a a distance of a
mile we saw several fires, at which appeared many natives: upon
discovering us, however, they immediately departed. I think that
the most fastidious sportsman would have derived ample amusement
during our days journey. He might without moving have seen the
finest coursing, from the commencement of the chase to the death of
the game: and when tired of killing kangaroos, he might have seen
emus hunted with equal success. We numbered swans and ducks among
our acquisitions, which in truth were caught without much exertion
on our part, or deviating, in the least from our course. Granite
and a hard whinstone were the most predominant among the stones;
small pieces of quartz, and loose rotten slates covered the tracks,
on which grew some of the finest stringy bark trees I ever saw.
Indeed the other timber, which consisted chiefly of common blue
gum, was far larger than usually seen on forest lands. That species
of casuarina called the beef wood (or she oak), was also seen
to-day for the first time: it is in part a coast tree, and
sufficiently denoted that we were approaching the sea. Observed the
variation of the compass to be 8. 51. E.</p>
<p>September 9.�In the night we had a severe frost, which in
the morning was succeeded by a dense fog. We found however that it
was confined to the valley, for on ascending the hills, the
prospect was clear and open. We passed over a beautiful and
well-watered country for about six miles, when we came on the
rivulet which we had quitted in the morning; but now, by the
addition of several brooks from the valleys, increased to a
considerable stream. Its banks were quite clear of timber, and
expanded into extensive sheets of water, which added greatly to the
beauty of the scenery. This stream running to the east southeast
verified the conjecture that we had passed the dividing range of
hills, and that this and most probably Sydney River (much superior
in magnitude) were coast streams. Crossing the former, we ascended
a hill on the opposite side, from whence the river's course was
seen to the south-east, running through a fine and open country. To
the northward and north-east the prospect was equally satisfactory,
the hills being connected by long and easy slopes, which would have
rendered their ascent a matter of little difficulty had our course
lain over them. After crossing the river, the country still
continued open, but the soil was not so good, and we found that we
were ascending in a gradual manner. For the last five miles the
country was thickly timbered with stringy bark and gum trees, the
soil bad, and crossed by numerous wet hollows, which showed we were
nearly on the summit of a level and extensive range of hills. We
accomplished fourteen miles with much ease, and halted for the
evening in a thick stringy bark forest, where there was worse
entertainment for both man and horse than we had experienced for
some weeks.</p>
<p>September 10.�A tempestuous morning, with occasional
showers of small rain, prevented us from quitting our camp. In the
intervals of fair weather, I walked to a hill about one mile off,
being the highest part of the range we were upon. Our prospect from
it was exceedingly grand and picturesque. The country from north to
south-east was broken into perpendicular rocky ridges, and divided
longitudinally by deep and apparently impassable glens. The rocks
were covered with climbing plants, and the glens abounded with new
and beautiful ones. Our collector descended one of those nearest to
us, and was amply repaid by the acquisition of nearly sixty most
desirable plants, some of which appeared even to constitute new
genera. The rocks were covered with epidendra,<sup>[*]</sup>
bignoniae, or trumpet-flowers, and clematides, or virgin's bower,
of which last genus three species apparently new were discovered.
Far different was the character of these glens from the rugged and
barren blue mountain ranges: fine open forest land ended abruptly
on the precipices. The bottoms were of the richest soil, the rocks
instead of being of a coarse sandstone were of a hard texture, and
of a blue shining appearance when broken. The country eastward of
these glens appeared very lofty, and much broken; but as in the
direction of our course, we should have some miles of good open
country to travel over, we had strong hopes that our difficulties
would prove greater in contemplation than reality. Among the timber
in these glens were some of the stateliest stringy bark trees that
we had ever beheld: in fact, the timber altogether is unusually
good. To the south-west and north-west, the country is low and
beautifully diversified by long sloping hills.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* Of the genera cymbidium and dendrobium of
Swartz.]</p>
<p>September 11.�Our course for near eight miles led us along
a broad and very elevated ridge of poor forest land, intermixed
with brush; when we were stopped from proceeding farther eastward
by the deep chasm or glen, which we had seen at a distance
yesterday. This tremendous ravine runs near north and south, its
breadth at the bottom does not apparently exceed one hundred or two
hundred feet, whilst the separation of the outer edges is from two
to three miles. I am certain that in perpendicular depth it exceeds
three thousand feet. The slopes from the edges were so steep and
covered with loose stones, that any attempt to descend even on foot
was impracticable. From either side of this abyss, smaller ravines
of similar character diverged, the distance between which seldom
exceeded half a mile. Down them trickled rills of water, derived
from the range on which we were. We could not however discern which
way the water in the main valley ran, as the bottom was concealed
by a thicket of vines and creeping plants. From the range on which
we were, we could distinctly see the coast line of hills. The
country between us and the coast was of an equal elevation, and
appeared broken and divided by ravines and steep precipices. We
continued along the edge of this ravine southerly for about four
miles, when we halted for the day. Our only hope of being enabled
to cross this barrier depends upon our pursuing a southerly course,
when if the waters run northerly, the dividing range between them
and Hunters River will permit us again to turn easterly. If on the
contrary they run southerly, their junction with Hunter's River
will equally (it is to be hoped) facilitate that object.</p>
<p>September 12.�We were obliged during the whole of this
day's journey, to keep along the ridge bordering on the glen. It is
impossible to form a correct idea of the wild magnificence of the
scenery without the pencil of a Salvator. Such a painter would here
find an ample field for the exercise of his genius. How dreadful
must the convulsion have been that formed these glens! The
principal glen led us to the westward: there were others that fell
into it from the southward; but we perceived that the waters in it
ran north-easterly, which gave us strong hopes of soon being
enabled to head it. Several times in the course of the day we
attempted to descend on foot; but after getting with much
difficulty a few hundred yards, we were always stopped by
perpendicular precipices. Scarcely a quarter of a mile elapsed
without a spring from the top of the ridge crossing our track,
forming at its entrance into the main glen a vast ravine. The ridge
along which we travelled was, as might be expected, very stony. It
was otherwise open forest land, thickly timbered with large,
stringy bark trees, casuarinae, and a large species of eucalyptus.
Kangaroos abounded on it, and the tracks of emus were also
seen.</p>
<p>September 13.�We were too anxious to find a passage across
this river (for such we now perceived it to be), to permit us to
rest this day. We proceeded on a variety of courses to avoid the
deep ravines or glens which conducted numerous small streams of
water to the principal one. Our road was very rugged, and our
elevation sometimes very considerable, every part heavily timbered.
Our course, which led us chiefly west, now terminated at one of the
most magnificent waterfalls we had ever seen. The water was
precipitated over a perpendicular rock at least one hundred and
fifty feet in height in one unbroken sheet, falling into a large
reservoir about one third down the whole declivity: hence it wound
its way through the glen for about half a mile farther, when it
joined the main stream. This grand fall was called Beckett's
Cataract, in honour of the Judge Advocate General. It now commenced
raining so heavily that we were obliged to stop on the spot, though
by no means an eligible situation. We had not seen any place where
there had been the slightest possibility of descending; but as we
were not many miles from the river which we crossed on Wednesday
last, we knew that this rugged country must soon end.</p>
<p>September 14.�The weather preventing us from proceeding,
parties were sent out to search the banks of the glen, for a place
by which to descend and cross it. Two of the people traced it up so
far as to ascertain that the river which we had crossed on
Wednesday was the same which had so embarrassed us. It entered the
glen in a fall of vast height: above, there was no difficulty in
crossing it, the country being clear and open, and of moderate
height. A kangaroo was chased to this fall, down which he leapt and
was dashed to pieces; like the hero of Wordsworth's "Hartleap
Well." It is wonderful that the dogs escaped the same fate. We had
been also successful in finding a passage nearer to the tent. About
a mile above Beckett's Cataract, a pass was discovered by which we
might descend, and the opposite side appeared equally favourable.
It appears that we have been hitherto deceived respecting the
magnitude of the river which runs through the glen, owing to the
vast height from which it was viewed, and to our being seldom
within a mile of it. The geologist would here have a most
interesting field for research, and would doubtless be enabled to
account for those natural phenomena, which, from their defiance of
all rule, perplex us so greatly. These mountains abound with coal
and slate. The dip of the rocks on this side (the north) of the
glen, is about twenty degrees to the west.</p>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="image-7-5" id="image-7-5"></a><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0015.jpg"></p>
<p class="caption">Bathurst's Falls.</p>
<p>September 15.�We first attempted the pass nearest to us,
and which was reported to be practicable. The horses with tolerable
ease descended the first ridge, which was about one third down; but
it was impossible to proceed a step farther with them: indeed we
had the utmost difficulty to get them back again. Three of them
actually rolled over, and were saved only by the trees from being
precipitated to the bottom. Quitting this place, we proceeded up
the glen, into which many small streams fell from the most awful
heights, forming so many beautiful cascades. After travelling five
or six miles, we arrived at that part of the river at which, after
passing through a beautiful and level though elevated country, it
is first received into the glen. We had seen many fine and
magnificent falls, each of which had excited our admiration in no
small degree, but the present one so far surpassed any thing which
we had previously conceived even to be possible, that we were lost
in astonishment at the sight of this wonderful natural sublimity,
which perhaps is scarcely to be exceeded in any part of the eastern
world. The river, after passing through an apparently gentle rising
and fine country, is here divided into two streams, the whole width
of which is about seventy yards. At this spot, the country seems
cleft in twain, and divided to its very foundation: a ledge of
rocks, two or three feet higher than the level on either side,
divides the waters in two, which, falling over a perpendicular rock
two hundred and thirty-five feet in height, forms this grand
cascade. At a distance of three hundred yards, and an elevation of
as many feet, we were wetted with the spray which arose like small
rain from the bottom: the noise was deafening; and if the river had
been full, so as to cover its entire bed, it would have been
perhaps more awfully grand, but certainly not so beautiful. After
winding through the cleft rocks about four hundred yards, it again
falls in one single sheet upwards of one hundred feet, and
continues in a succession of smaller falls about a quarter of a
mile lower, where the cliffs are of a perpendicular height, on each
side exceeding one thousand two hundred feet, the width at the
edges about two hundred yards. From thence it descends as before
described until all sight of it is lost, from the vast elevation of
the rocky hills which it divides and runs through. The different
points of this deep glen seem as if they would fit into the
opposite fissures which form the smaller glens alternately on
either side. The whole is indeed a grand natural spectacle, and is
an indubitable mark of the vast convulsions which this country must
at one period have undergone. The rocks are all slate, the upper
romanae of which are of a light brown colour, rotten, and easily
separated. Nearer the base or surface of the water they are of a
dark blue, and of a firmer texture. The waters are quite
discoloured, owing to the nature of the bed over which they run,
the soluble particles of coal among the slate tinging them a dark
brown. This fine fall is not more than five miles below the place
where we crossed the river on the 9th instant, and we were
doubtless prevented from hearing the noise of the waters, by the
numerous smaller falls in the vicinity. This most magnificent fall
and the river itself were respectively named Bathurst and Apsley,
in honour of the Noble Secretary of State for the colonies.
Although a week had elapsed in effecting the passage of this river,
we could not consider it as entirely lost, especially as it enabled
us to ascertain that its direction was to the coast; and we hoped
that the nature of the country would permit us to fix its
embouchure.</p>
<p>September 16.�The weather for some days past has been very
unseasonable, cold and tempestuous, with frequent heavy and
continued showers of rain: this remarkable coldness of temperature
in such a latitude (31 degrees,) I cannot but attribute to the
considerable elevation of the country above the sea, being
certainly between four and five thousand feet. We proceeded to the
south-east during this day's journey, on purpose to avoid the
broken land in the vicinity of the river. It was good travelling
though hilly: the soil, for the most part, a poor clay; and the
timber not so good or large as usual. There was however much good
land, particularly in the valleys, through every one of which a
stream of water took its course to the river. At twelve miles, we
halted on the banks of a considerable and rapid stream watering an
extensive and wide valley. The many waters which fall into Apsley
River must very considerably increase its magnitude; and I am in
hopes after it has cleared this mountainous tract and we again fall
in with it, that we shall find it a useful as well as fine stream.
The river on which we encamped was named Croker's River, in honour
of the First Secretary of the Admiralty.</p>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="image-7-6" id="image-7-6"></a><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0016.jpg"></p>
<p class="caption">A Native Chief of Bathurst.</p>
<p>September 17.�We proceeded on an easterly course during
this day's journey; and seven miles from Croker's River crossed a
smaller stream running to the north-east. For the first ten miles
the country was very poor and badly timbered, with barren stony
hills; but from the last mentioned stream to our halting-place, at
the end of twelve miles, though the land was hilly the soil was
excellent, consisting of a rich, dark mould. The hills were
particularly rich and thickly clothed with fine timber, blue gum,
and stringy bark. We halted on the side of a hill, from the top of
which we could see a great distance to the north and east. In the
first quarter, lofty hills were seen from eighty to one hundred
miles off, and generally very irregular. To the east the land was
elevated, but more divided by sloping valleys, and we augured that
at least for thirty miles in the direction of our course, we should
not meet with any such serious obstruction as the last: indeed we
imagined we could trace the course of the river nearly on a
parallel line with us. We this day saw a solitary native, but I
believe we were indebted for the sight rather to the circumstance
of his being deprived of the use of his limbs than to his boldness
or curiosity. Two or three families had been encamped on the spot
where we found him, but they had all departed. He seemed more
astonished than alarmed at the sight of our cavalcade, and
expressed his wonder in a singular succession of sounds, resembling
snatches of a song. His countenance was mild and pleasing, and was
entirely divested of the ferocity we had seen expressed in the
visages of some of his countrymen: he had lost the upper front
tooth, and I think it was probable that he had heard of such beings
as ourselves before. He was a miserable object: several ribs on his
left side had been broken; his back was twisted, which apparently
had been the means of depriving him of the use of his limbs, as no
injury could be discovered about them.</p>
<p>September 18.�During the night and this morning it has
continued to blow a perfect equinoctial storm. We were in constant
dread that some of the branches of the trees which surrounded us
would fall on the tent. Proceeding on our course to the
east-north-east, we did not advance above a mile and a half before
a small stream running to the north-east through a very steep and
narrow valley obliged us to alter our course more southerly, which
we did, and soon entered a forest of stringy bark and blue gum
trees of immense size and great beauty. The soil on which they grew
was a rich vegetable mould covered with fern trees<sup>[*]</sup>
and small shrubs. We found that this part of the country was
intersected by deep valleys, the sides of which were clothed with
stately trees, but of what kind we were ignorant: creepers and
smaller timber trees, all of species not previously noticed by us,
grew so extremely thick that we found it impossible to penetrate
through them. We therefore continued along the edge of those
valleys, our progress much impeded by the vast trunks of fallen
trees in a state of decay, some of which were upwards of one
hundred and fifty feet long, without a branch, as straight as an
arrow, and from three to eight and ten feet in diameter. The forest
through which we travelled appeared to be an elevated level or
plain, and at three o'clock in the afternoon, after proceeding
three or four miles to the westward, we cleared this truly primeval
forest, and descended into a small valley of open ground, through
which ran the stream we had crossed in the morning. Indeed we were
not more than two miles south of the place we had quitted. Our hope
of proceeding without much interruption was thus disappointed: the
gloominess of the weather, and the constant showers that fell, so
impeded our view and distorted its objects, that what appeared
plain and practicable at a distance of two or three miles, when
approached was found impassable. I think it probable, however, that
our most serious obstructions will be the thickness of the timber,
rotten trees, and creeping plants; the soil is so rich and free
from rocks, that I do not think the steepness of the descents will
greatly endanger us. The wind, which had been extremely violent all
day, was now accompanied by heavy showers; and we thought ourselves
extremely fortunate in not being obliged to encamp in the forest.
The storm as the evening advanced increased to almost a hurricane,
with torrents of rain. Since Apsley River had been ascertained to
take a direction coast-wise, the principle which governed the
direction of our course had been to endeavour to make a port on the
coast laid down in lat. 30. 45. S., and which I had an idea might
probably receive this river, now increased by a multitude of
smaller streams, and if so, that it might serve as a point of
communication with the fine country in the interior. It is true
this port is marked as a bar harbour; but I knew that it had never
been examined, and I was aware how possible it was for a harbour to
appear closed by a reef from a ship sailing at a distance along the
coast. At all events the point was worth ascertaining; and
notwithstanding the repeated disappointments we had experienced in
attempting a north-easterly course, I shall, if we are enabled to
clear the deep valleys we are at present embarrassed with,
persevere for some time longer. I consider it every way important
to know into what part of the coast these waters are
discharged.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* Alsophila australis of Brown.]</p>
<p>September 19.�The storm continued to rage with unabated
violence throughout the night and the whole of this day,
accompanied by torrents of rain and hail: the weather was also
extremely cold and bleak; the thermometer in the mornings and
evenings being not more than 5 or 6 degrees above the freezing
point: indeed, the season much nearer resembles the winter of a far
more southern latitude than the spring of lat. 31.</p>
<p>September 20.�Towards the morning the storm abated, but
throughout the day it was dark and gloomy, with passing showers. In
the present state of the weather we did not think it prudent to
attempt penetrating through the thick forests which we knew were
before us, and our horses would be the better for rest. The
botanical collector descended into one of the valleys nearest to
us, and found the sides of it clothed with the timber before
mentioned: it was quite new to us. Some of the flower and seed were
procured, as it was generally found in full flower, which gave
these stately trees a richness and beauty I had never seen
equalled. A great variety of other equally interesting plants was
also found, some of them new species of timber. The valleys were of
the richest soil, having a small run of water in their bottoms.
Observed the variation by evening azimuth to be 10. 39. E.</p>
<p>September 21.�With a severe frost, the morning and day
were finer than usual, though the weather was very unsettled. We
accomplished seven miles on a south-east by east course, through a
very heavily wooded country; the timber generally of the best
description, and the soil, with some partial exceptions, was
equally good and rich. It was, however, so thickly covered with
ferns and bushes among the trees, with vines running from them,
that in many places we found it difficult to pass. Our course was
accidentally such as to avoid all the deep valleys but two, the
descents of which were extremely difficult. In them strong streams
of water ran to the north-east, no doubt joining the main river.
From the hill over one of the streams near which we halted the
coast line of hills was plainly seen; and we appeared to have but a
rugged journey before us. Our horses too were so extremely weak and
crippled, that the short distance we are enabled to travel is
accomplished with pain and difficulty. We were forced to leave one
of them about a mile and a half from our resting-place, as he was
utterly unable even to walk without his load. which was distributed
among the others. Some natives' fires were seen about two miles to
the north-east of us in the same valley.</p>
<p>September 22.�A dark tempestuous morning. Sent back for
the horse we left yesterday afternoon: he was somewhat recovered,
and may perhaps live to reach the coast, the point whither our
hopes have long pointed, and where I trust the horses will
experience some relaxation from their present incessant but
necessary labour. We had no choice in the route we pursued this
day, taking that which appeared most practicable for men and
horses: it was a continued ascending and descending of the most
frightful precipices, so covered with trees and shrubs and creeping
vines, that we frequently were obliged to cut our way through: at
the bottom of one of these, we left the sick horse in a dying
state. To add to our perplexities, it rained incessantly, and was
so thick and dark, that towards evening it was with difficulty we
could see sufficient of our way to avoid being dashed to pieces.
About two hours before sunset, after a descent of upwards of five
thousand feet, we found ourselves at the bottom of the glen,
through which ran a small stream; but a passage down it was
impossible, as it fell over rocky precipices to a still greater
depth. The opposite side was a mountain equally steep with the one
we had just descended. The horses were also so weak that it was
impossible they could take their loads up it, and there was no
possibility of remaining on the spot, since there was neither grass
nor room even to lie down. All the heavy baggage was therefore
obliged to be left behind, and by unremitted exertion we were
enabled to gain a small spot of ground, formed by the mountains
retiring from the immediate descent to the gulf below. It was,
however, near eight o'clock before this was accomplished; and we
were after all obliged to leave two of the horses below, as all our
attempts to move them were fruitless, even when unladen; a
circumstance which we lamented the more, as they were on a spot
that did not afford a blade of grass. The rain ceasing, was
succeeded about nine o'clock by one of the severest storms of wind
I ever remember to have witnessed; and for the first time perhaps
during the journey, we were alarmed for our personal safety. The
howling of the wind down the sides of the mountain, the violent
agitation of the trees, and the crash of falling branches, made us
every instant fear that we should be buried under the ruins of some
of the stupendous trees which surrounded us.</p>
<p>September 23.�Towards midnight the storm abated, and
allowed us to pass the remainder of the night in comparative
comfort. The morning broke fair, and as the state of the horses
would not permit us to attempt ascending the mountain with the
baggage to-day, I contented myself with dispatching them for the
provisions left last night at the bottom of the precipice, and to
get up if possible the two remaining horses, whilst Mr. Evans and
myself should explore the range, and endeavour to find out a
somewhat more practicable route. We proceeded to ascend the
mountain, the summit of which was near two miles distant, and in
many places extremely difficult and abrupt. We however remarked on
our road seven native huts, which increased our hopes that these
mountains would lead by a comparatively easy descent to the coast
line of country. Bilboa's ecstasy at the first sight of the South
Sea could not have been greater than ours, when on gaining the
summit of this mountain, we beheld Old Ocean at our feet: it
inspired as with new life: every difficulty vanished, and in
imagination we were already at home. We proceeded sufficiently far
to discover, that although our descent would be both difficult and
dangerous, it would not be impracticable. The country between us
and the sea was broken into considerable forest hills and pleasing
valleys, down the principal of which we could distinguish a small
stream taking its course to the sea. To the north and south the
country was mountainous and broken beyond any thing we had seen.
Indeed, some idea of those barrier mountains may be formed from the
circumstance, that although we could distinctly see the ocean, and
the waving of the coast line, (which within the distance of ten or
twelve miles from the beach appeared low), yet we were still nearly
fifty miles from it. I estimated the height of this mountain at
between six and seven thousand feet; and yet the country north and
south appeared equally elevated. Numerous smokes arising from
natives' fires announced a country well inhabited, and gave the
whole picture a cheerful aspect, which reflected itself on our
minds; and we returned to the tents with lighter hearts and better
prospects. In removing the baggage left at the bottom of the hill a
short quarter of a mile, a most distressing accident occurred. A
mare, one of the strongest we had, in bringing up a very light
load, not a quarter of her usual burden, and when within one
hundred yards of the tent, literally burst with the violent
exertion which the ascent required. In this shocking state, with
her entrails on the ground, she arrived at the tent, when, to put
an end to her agonies, she was shot. This was a serious loss to us,
in addition to that which we suffered on the day before: and three
more horses were so worn, that I scarcely expected to force them
along even unladen. It must not be supposed that we attempted to
climb these hills in a direct line; it would have been scarcely
possible for a man to do it: we wound round them in every
practicable direction; and the loose rich soil of which they were
generally composed, together with the thickness of the timber, by
preventing our falling, favoured our progress. In the course of the
afternoon I tried the angle of elevation and depression on various
parts, and found it to be from 30 to 35 and even 40 degrees. By the
same means we found that the mountain which we had descended
yesterday evening exceeded four thousand seven hundred feet in
height on those angles. The mountain we shall have to ascend
to-morrow is very considerably higher; but, with one or two
exceptions, the ascents are not so abrupt. After the provisions
were brought up, all hands were sent to cut a road for the horses
through the brushes which surrounded the bottoms of the steepest
ascents, and without which it would have been impossible for them
to pass laden; the vines which crossed each other in various
directions forming an almost impenetrable barrier. It may seem
superfluous to speak of soil and timber among such mountains as
these; yet I will say that except where the rocks presented a
perpendicular face, and along the highest ridges, the soil was
light and good. The timber consisted of blue gum and stringy bark,
and forest oak<sup>[*]</sup> of the largest dimensions: the gorges
of the valleys were covered with loose small stones, and in those
gorges all the trees which are usually found in places of a similar
description in the district of the Five Islands (with the exception
of the red cedar), were to be met with. The stones and rocks were
mixed with a considerable portion of quartz, and were generally in
loose detached masses of various sizes. The mountain from whence we
first saw the ocean was named Sea View Mount, and I should think
might be distinctly seen by ships at some distance from the
coast.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* Casuarina torulosa.]</p>
<p>September 24.�At eight o'clock the horses began to ascend
the mountain, and it was twelve before we reached the summit, a
distance of exactly two miles. How the horses descended I scarcely
know; and the bare recollection of the imminent dangers which they
escaped, makes me tremble. At one period of the descent, I would
willingly have compromised for a loss of one third of them, to
ensure the safety Of the remainder. It is to the exertions and
steadiness of the men, under Providence, that their safety must be
ascribed. The thick tufts of grass and the loose soil also gave
them a surer footing, of which the men skillfully availed
themselves. The length of the descent was two measured miles and
three quarters, and upon first, an angle of depression of 40
degrees for one thousand two hundred and fifty-four feet: we then
slightly ascended 4 or 6 degrees for four thousand six hundred and
twenty, and from thence the descent, in a continued straight line,
to the run of water at the base, was on the various angles of 28,
32, 35, 40, and 46 degrees, eight thousand five hundred and eighty
feet; from whence I deduce the perpendicular height to be nearly
six thousand feet, which is certainly underrated. The descent
terminated in a very narrow steep valley, down which we proceeded
for near three quarters of a mile, when the small stream before
mentioned joined a very considerable one seen yesterday from Sea
View Mount; and the valley opening, we halted on the banks of the
river on a spot which afforded us plenty of excellent grass, and
was in other respects favourable for that rest which the horses
required before they could resume their journey. One of the horses
when about a third down the mountain was quite incapable of
proceeding, we therefore were obliged to leave him for the night,
with the loads of two other horses. It was past four o'clock before
we arrived at our halting-place, having been exactly three hours
and a half in descending.</p>
<p>September 25.�Despatched the men to bring down the horse
and the baggage left on the mountain yesterday. They returned in
the afternoon with both, but the horse was scarcely able to stand.
In the course of the day examined the valley a few miles, when we
found that it opened considerably four or five miles down; the
hills previously thereto being very steep, but covered with grass,
and abounding with kangaroos. It was therefore determined to move
farther down the river to-morrow, instead of remaining here two
days as originally proposed. In the present reduced state of the
horses, we were obliged to make short stages with frequent halts,
in hopes of sufficiently recruiting their strength so as to proceed
with greater expedition along the coast.</p>
<p>September 26.�We proceeded between four and five miles
down the river, which was named Hastings River, in honour of the
Governor General of India; the vale gradually opening to a greater
width between steep and lofty hills, the soil on which was very
stony, but rich, and covered with fine grass two or three feet
high. At the place where we stopped, small rich flats began to
extend on either side, and confirmed our hopes that we should find
a more regular country as we approached the sea. The route which we
had travelled lay over steep and sharp points of mountains ending
on the river, but did not offer any great obstruction. Yet we were
obliged to leave the horse which had failed the day before,
half-way, as he dropped through utter weakness, though unladen.
These valleys and hills are astonishingly rich in timber of various
kinds, many new, and their botanic supplies were inexhaustible.
Indeed our cargo now principally consists of plants.</p>
<p>September 27.�The morning fine and clear. Sent back for
the horse left yesterday, which with some difficulty was brought to
the tent. Observed our latitude to be 31. 23. 10. S., longitude by
estimation 152. 8. E., variation 8. 22. E. We this day cleaned all
the arms, and put our military appointments in order to guard
against any hostile attempts that might be made by the natives, who
are reported to be in this quarter numerous and treacherous.</p>
<p>September 28.�As we proceeded down the river, the vale
still continued to open on either hand, the hills receding from
each bank of the stream from two to three miles. The land on the
more elevated spots, and irregular low hills, was strong but of
good soil, covered with grass: the flats which occurred alternately
on both sides of the river were very rich, the grass long and
coarse; the timber, blue gum and apple tree. As the points of the
higher hills sometimes closed on the river, we found it convenient
to cross it, which in the course of the day we did no less than
three times. In the hollows of the higher hills were thick brushes
of the same description as those at the Five Islands. About six
miles and a half down the river it was joined by a considerable
stream from the northward, running through a fine and spacious
valley. The accession of this water materially altered the
appearance of the river, as it began to form long and wide reaches,
with alternate rapids over a shingly bottom. The northern stream
was named Forbes's River, in honour of the Marquis of Hastings'
nephew. Although our proximity to the sea seemed to preclude the
probability of Hastings River being joined by any other
considerable waters; yet its present size made us a little anxious
to find that it had a serviceable discharge into the ocean. The
ground over which we travelled being very favourable to the weak
state of the horses, we accomplished between eight and nine miles.
Kangaroos abounded; four were this day killed. Marks of flood were
observed to the height of sixteen feet, but the river appeared now
to be in its lowest state, and the sides of the barren mountains
showed that there had been no rain of any consequence for a
considerable time.</p>
<p>September 29.�The country we passed through is what is
generally known in New South Wales as open forest land, with
occasionally small flats on the river: steep hills sometimes ended
on the river, and north and south of us were detached ranges of a
similar description. The whole face of the country was abundantly
covered with good grass, which, having been burnt some time, now
bore the appearance of young wheat. Six miles down the river it was
joined by a fine stream from the southward, apparently watering a
spacious valley. We crossed this, and named it Ellenborough River,
in honour of the Chief Justice of England. We proceeded about three
miles farther before we halted at the edge of a thick detached
brush<sup>[*]</sup>, which came nearly down to the water's edge. In
this brush was a quantity of fine red cedar trees, affording us
reason to hope, that this valuable wood might, as we advanced to
the coast, be found in yet greater abundance. The timber generally
might be termed heavy, consisting of blue gum, stringy bark, and
iron bark, with fine forest oaks. The stones on the surface of the
land were hard and splintery, being principally of coarse quartz;
some hard sandstone was also seen: the rocks in the river were of a
fine dark blue colour, singularly hard and slippery. Although we
had seen no natives, there were abundant signs of them. This season
probably is better calculated for them to procure their food on the
coast than in the woods.</p>
<p>[* Many very beautiful shrubs inhabit these shaded thickets, of
which the following may serve as a specimen. Tetranthera dealbata,
BROWN'S PRODR.; Cryptocarya glaucescens, BR., genera of laurinae.
The Australian sapota fruit, Achras australis, BR.; Cargillia
australis, a date plum. Myrtus trinervia of Smith, and Ripogonum
album, BR.]</p>
<p>September 30.�Our progress this day was greatly impeded by
thick brushes, which, covering the sides of the hills, ended on the
river: some of them were upwards of a mile in extent, and we were
obliged to cut a road to enable the horses to pass through them.
There were several rich flats on both sides of the river; the hilly
projections ending alternately at the several bends of the stream.
The obstruction offered by the brushes excepted, the road was no
wise difficult: the hills were stony, with rocky summits: the
river's course was over large rocks and pebbles; it was fordable in
several places, with intervening deep reaches. It was late in the
afternoon before we had accomplished six miles, and halting on a
flat bounded easterly by extensive brush, I resolved to cross the
river. There appears to be plenty of fish in it; we caught six fine
perch, weighing above two pounds each, in a very short time. The
timber continues heavy and good: we saw however but little cedar
after passing the first brush.</p>
<p>October 1.�Our travelling to-day was nearly the same as
yesterday. The windings of the river were very sudden, and its
banks were most generally covered with a thick brush, which in some
places extended back a considerable distance. Between those brushes
the ground was open forest with good grass, casuarina or beefwood,
and large timber: the hills as usual stony. Near our halting-place
a remarkable rocky range of hills was seen to the east-south-east
of great height, and presenting nearly a perpendicular front to the
north-west. Between east-north-east and east by south, with the
imperfect view which we could obtain from the low hills we were
traversing, it appeared but slightly broken, the higher ranges
breaking off to the north-east and south-east, leaving a spacious
valley through which we conjectured the river flowed. Near us were
a few cedar trees, and marks of flood exceeding twenty feet, but
confined to the bed of the river. On the whole we accomplished near
eight miles, but scarcely five were in the direction of the sea,
which we still estimate to be from twenty to twenty-five miles
distant in a direct line.</p>
<p>October 2.�In order to avoid the brushes, which lined the
banks of the river, we kept at some distance from it to the south,
which led us under the high rocky peaked hill mentioned yesterday.
Our road was however by no means bettered, and I afterwards
regretted that I did not keep close to the river. It is proper to
mention that the brush land is of the richest description, being
composed entirely of vegetable mould, the produce of decayed trees
for ages: it is singularly well watered; every little valley has
its run to the river. A great deal of cedar was seen to-day, and
the more common timber was very large and good; the forest ridges
between the brushes were well clothed with grass. We have hitherto
seen no natives, though they are certainly numerous, as their
frequent recently deserted camps witness: we are not very anxious
for better proof. The leeches in the bushes were very troublesome,
and made many plentiful meals at our expense: this would probably
have done us no great harm, but the wounds which they made usually
festered and became painful sores. Our botanical collector ascended
the peaked hill on our left, and had a most extensive prospect. The
river, winding a few miles below our station of this evening, was
distinctly seen to the coast, which he did not estimate to be above
fifteen or eighteen miles off. The account which he gave of the
interesting prospect, and the circumstance of its being the only
eminence between us and the coast from whence any object could be
distinguished, determined me to ascend it the ensuing morning, and
ascertain the principal points in this beautiful country. We
travelled this day in the whole near six miles in an
east-south-east course, the horses being very weak, and a road
needing to be cut for them nearly the whole way, the last mile
excepted, which was open forest land.</p>
<p>October 3.�Soon after daylight, accompanied by the
botanist, I returned to the peaked hill, leaving the horses with
Mr. Evans to proceed to the north-east. Certainly a more beautiful
and interesting view is not often seen. The spacious valley,
through which the river flowed, extends along the coast from Smoaky
Cape to the Three Brothers, and its width north of me was above
eight miles, gradually narrowing to the base of Sea View Mount
where we first entered it, and which bore west by north. Wide and
extensive valleys stretched to the west-south-west, and
south-south-west, under its base on either side, the hills in which
were of moderate height, and of open forest land. To the north by
east, though high land was seen at a distance of near sixty miles,
the general face of the country was low with moderate and regular
elevations, the highest lands being immediately behind the capes
and projecting points into the sea. But the object that most
interested me in this extensive survey was the appearance of the
river: at a distance of seven or eight miles north-east of me, it
opened into wide reaches extending to the sea, which it seemed
after a winding course to enter nearly east, or in about the
situation assigned by Captain Flinders to a lake across the
entrance of which there appears to be a bar. The country on its
banks, and within the limits before mentioned, appeared very brushy
and low; the banks themselves seeming to be the highest ground. I
conjectured that the river's extending itself to such a
considerable breadth, was probably caused by the tide-water; and I
could not help entertaining the strongest hope from its appearance
that it would prove navigable, whatever its entrance might be. To
the north of the river, a few miles from it, appeared lagoons, or
swamps, probably having some beach communication with the sea.
Another large lake was also seen to the south-east, under the Three
Brothers. Several other small patches I thought might possibly
prove to be marshes between my station and the coast; the country
in its immediate vicinity appearing too low to afford drainage.
Descending the hill, I proceeded after the horses, passing for
nearly three miles through a good open forest country; the timber
large, with numerous casuarinae. At the entrance of a brush I met
the horses returning, having been prevented from continuing their
easterly course by a large tea-tree swamp, full of water. We
therefore pursued a more northerly course, with the hope and
intention of making the river near the wide reaches, which I had
seen from the hill. From the forest land we immediately entered a
thick brush, and after cutting our way for near two miles, the
evening advancing, I thought it best to send back the horses to the
forest land, where there was plenty of grass, and proceeded myself
with some men to cut the road to the river; an object, which in
about another mile we effected. We happened to make it near the
spot wished for. The tide was going out, the water having fallen
near three feet; though not perfectly good it was drinkable, and
would doubtless be sweet at low-water. A small island here divides
the river into two branches: below the island the water appeared
very deep, as did also the north side of the island. Its breadth
might be nearly a quarter of a mile; both banks were very thick of
brush, and the soil rich. About three quarters of a mile down the
reach, the bank on the southern side appears to become a little
more open, and, as I intended halting tomorrow, I determined to cut
a road to it, and clear the way as far as possible down the banks
before we proceeded on Monday. Our distance from this spot to the
coast line did not exceed eight or ten miles. It was nearly dark
before we returned to the place which we had fixed to encamp on,
amidst abundance of fine grass and good water.</p>
<p>October 4.�We could distinctly hear, during the night, the
murmurs of the surf on the beach, and the sound was most grateful
to our ears, as the welcome harbinger of the point to which
eighteen weeks of anxious pilgrimage had been directed. I
accompanied the men who had been appointed to cut the road along
the banks of the river. We had performed about a mile when we were
stopped by a large stream from the southward. It was therefore
necessary to carry the road along the banks, which we did for
nearly two miles, when we left of for the day and returned to our
tent. I caused the main branch of the river to be sounded near the
junction of the southern branch which I had named King's River,
(after my friend who is now surveying the coast of this continent),
and found, at one third ebb, four fathoms. King's River appeared
equally deep, and was about one hundred yards broad; the water at
this time of the tide brackish: the country covered with brush, the
soil very rich; and a few ceder trees were scattered among the
other timber. The vines were of enormous size, and in many
instances had entirely enveloped the trees to which they had
attached themselves, a small part of their trunks only being here
and there visible.</p>
<p>October 5.�Sent a party to cut the road up King's River.
After advancing between four and five miles, a small piece of
forest ground was discovered, which determined me to remove the
horses and baggage thither, since the distance which the people had
to go to their work occasioned much delay. A great many natives'
canoes were seen on the river to-day fishing, and as the use of
these canoes to cross King's River would have been very desirable,
we endeavoured to tempt their owners to visit us, but without
success; it being out of our power to make them understand our
meaning.</p>
<p>October 6.�We set out this morning with an intention of
proceeding up the west bank of King's River by the road already
cut, but before we had arrived at it, two natives in a canoe were
induced to cross over to us. Their vessel we detained, making them
a present of a tomahawk. The moment they saw one of the horses
(which happened to be a white one), descending the bank for the
purpose of being unladen, they made signs expressive of their idea,
that we were going to put the horses in the canoe, which they
immediately quitted and swam to the opposite shore. As it was
extremely probable that many smaller branches would fall into
King's River, I determined to cross it at its mouth, and so proceed
along the banks of the main river. It was two o'clock before we had
got every thing over, when, upon examining the road which we had to
travel, we found that about half a mile lower down another small
stream joined the river. To this latter stream we therefore cut a
road, keeping the canoe for farther use. By its means we found that
after we should cross this last stream, we should get into an open
forest country, with good grass: and we hoped that we should meet
with no farther obstructions in our progress, which the thickness
of the country and the intersection of streams rendered extremely
tedious. The river at low-water was sufficiently fresh for us to
drink. From the limited observations I was enabled to make, the
depth at that time of tide was from two to three fathoms, and the
rise of tide was five feet: but the tides appeared very irregular,
being evidently influenced by the great body of fresh water in the
river. What land we saw or passed over was a rich vegetable mould;
the brush extremely thick on both sides, with fine timber of
various kinds. I do not think the higher forest ground was more
than a mile or two back from us. King's River, and that which we
shall cross tomorrow, are formed by numerous smaller runs of water
from the valleys in the higher grounds to the southward and
south-west.</p>
<p>October 7.�We crossed the small stream mentioned
yesterday, by the help of our friendly canoe, in safety. The horses
however having had little or nothing to eat the night preceding, I
halted for a couple of hours to refresh them. The horse which had
been so weakly, that nothing but the short stages we were obliged
to make enabled him to keep up with us, in crossing the stream
landed on a small muddy patch, dry at low water: here he fell, and
all our efforts were unavailing to carry him to the forest-land,
where I intended to leave him for the chance of recovery. To
prevent a more lingering death, I now caused him to be shot. We
afterwards proceeded near four miles, through an excellent open
forest country, with low rising hills well watered, and plenty of
good grass and timber. We halted near a large lagoon, deriving its
source from springs in the valleys southerly and south-west, having
an outlet to the river, which having bent considerably to the
north-westward, we have not seen since we quitted its banks this
morning. The weather for some days back has been remarkably fine,
and we find the brushes a great protection from the heat of the
sun, which is now becoming very powerful.</p>
<p>October 8.�We proceeded on our course, passing over for
upwards of three miles a good and open country: the river three or
four miles north of us. We soon afterwards came to a very large
fresh water lagoon on our left, several miles in circumference,
with smaller branches from the valleys, which emptied itself into
the river: its point of discharge we could not discern. At five
miles we were stopped by a large run of fresh water, which, from
its proximity to the sea, we conjectured fell into the lower part
of the harbour. At this place we were obliged to construct a
bridge, which we did by two o'clock, sufficiently large and strong
to take over the laden horses. During the time we were thus
employed, we heard the natives' call close to us; and, on being
answered, they immediately presented themselves to the number of
ten, taking great care to show us, by lifting up their hands and
clapping them together, that they were perfectly unarmed. Seeing
them not disposed to approach near us, I went towards them, when
they all retired to a greater distance except three or four, among
whom I recognised the young man from whom we had borrowed the
canoe. I made them several presents of fish hooks, and kangaroo
skins, but could not get them to approach within a hundred yards of
us. After a short interval I left them, and mounting a horse, they
on seeing me took to their heels and ran as for their lives. They
were all handsome, well-made men, stout in their persons, and
showing evident signs of good living. Crossing this run, we passed
over an excellent and rich country; alternately thick brush and
clear forest, with small streams of water for near four miles more,
when, to our great joy and satisfaction, we arrived on the
sea-shore about half a mile from the entrance of what we saw (with
no small pleasure), formed a port to the river which we had been
tracing from Sea View Mount. Thus, after twelve weeks travelling
over a country exceeding three hundred and fifty miles, in a direct
line from the Macquarie River, without a single serious fatality,
we had the gratification to find that neither our time nor our
exertions had been uselessly bestowed; and we trusted that the
limited examination, which our means would allow us to make of the
entrance of this port, would ultimately throw open the whole
interior to the Macquarie River, for the benefit of British
settlers. We pitched our tent upon a beautiful point of land,
having plenty of good water and grass; and commanding a fine view
of the interior of the port and surrounding country. I purpose to
remain here until Monday, by which period I expect to be enabled to
complete (as far as possible, without the assistance of boats), the
examination of the harbour's mouth.</p>
<p>October 11.�Our time for these last two days has been
occupied in making a sketch of the entrance into the river, and, as
far as our limited means would permit, in ascertaining its
capability to receive small vessels. The entrance between the
sand-rollers and over the bay appeared sufficiently deep for
vessels whose draught of water might not exceed ten or twelve feet;
and when within the bar, a deeper though narrow channel seemed to
afford safe means of communication with part of the country
traversed by us, on the 3rd and 4th inst. The nature of the country
in the immediate vicinity of this port and river has already been
described; and should the channel, which, as far as we are able to
judge, appears safe and sufficiently deep, hereafter prove to be
so, I indulge the hope, that the knowledge we have obtained will be
beneficial to the interests of the colony; and facilitate the
settlement of a rich and valuable tract of country. The natives in
the vicinity of the port appeared very numerous: they kept,
however, on the other side of the harbour, and seemed by no means
inclined to have closer communication with us. We however prevailed
on four young men to come over; and by making them small presents
of hooks, lines, etc., this shyness has soon worn off. They were
evidently acquainted with the use of fire-arms; if any of the
people took up a musket they immediately ran off, and it was only
by laying it down that they could he prevailed upon to return,
showing by every simple means in their power their dread of its
appearance.</p>
<p>The port abounds with fish: the sharks were larger and more
numerous than I ever before observed in any place. We caught one
very large one, which we offered to the natives, but they would not
touch it. making signs that it would make them ill: our people
however found no bad effects from eating it.</p>
<p>The forest hills and other rising grounds in the neighbourhood
are covered with large kangaroos; and the marshes, which in some
places border on the port, afford shelter and support to
innumerable wild fowl. Independent of Hastings River, the whole
country is generally well-watered, and there is a fine spring at
the very entrance into the port.</p>
<p>I named this inlet, Port Macquarie, in honour of His Excellency
the Governor, the original promoter of these expeditions.</p>
<p>October 12.�We quitted Port Macquarie at an early hour on
our course homewards, with all those feelings which that word even
in the wilds of Australia can inspire. We kept at a distance from
the sea shore for nearly six miles; the country was exceedingly
rich, the timber large with frequent brushes. Just before we came
on the beach, we observed an extensive freshwater lagoon, running
for several miles behind the beach, bounded on the west by forest
land of good appearance; a strip of sandy land about three quarters
of a mile wide dividing it from the sea. At the back of Tacking
Point rises a small stream of fresh water, which flows into the
lagoon. The country is of moderate height. After travelling near
fifteen miles, we stopped at the extremity of a sandy beach on a
point of good land, with an excellent spring of water rising on it,
about four miles north of the northernmost of the Three Brothers.
Tacking Point, bearing N. 25� E. Two of our remaining three dogs,
had been for the last two days deprived of the use of their limbs:
one died this morning; the other, we brought on horseback with us,
willing, if possible, to save the life of a valuable and faithful
servant. We conjecture that something they had eaten in the woods
must have caused so universal a paralysis.</p>
<p>October 13.�Crossing the point of land on which we had
been encamped, we came to a sandy beach, on which we travelled
three miles and a half. At the end of it was an opening safe for
boats, (and probably for small craft at high water), into an
extensive lake. As we had no canoe by which to cross over, we were
obliged to keep along its north shore with an intention of going
round it. The lake formed a large basin with a deep channel, which
as it approached the base of the northern Brother narrowed into a
river-like form, and in the course of a mile it again expanded from
the north-north-west to the south-west, to a very great extent. The
land on its eastern side was low and marshy (fresh water). To the
north and north-west, it was bounded by low forest hills covered
with luxuriant grass; and to the southward and south-west extended
along apparently the same description of country, nearly to the
western base of the Second Brother. The ranges of high, woody hills
laid down by Captain Flinders dwindle when approached into low
unconnected forest hills. The Northern Brother, the highest of the
three, is a long hill of moderate elevation, and is seen from such
a distance in consequence of the other parts of the country being
comparatively low. The timber was chiefly black butted
gum,<sup>[*]</sup> stringy bark, turpentine tree, and forest
oak<sup>[**]</sup>. The stones are chiefly a hard sandstone. On the
lake were great numbers of black swans, ducks, etc. Various small
inlets from the lake much impeded us, and after travelling near
seven miles along its shores, we halted for the evening near a
small spring of fresh water, in a good rising grass country. The
easternmost highest part of the North Brother was S. 4. W. From the
observed amplitude of the sun at rising this morning, the variation
was found to be 9. 33. E.</p>
<p class="footnote">[* Species of eucalyptus]</p>
<p class="footnote">[** Casuarina torulosa]</p>
<p>October 14.�We were considerably delayed in our progress
this day by salt water inlets, which occasioned us much trouble to
cross, and at length we were altogether stopped by a very wide and
deep one, near the west end of the lake: it was too late in the day
to take any measures for crossing it this evening; we therefore
pitched our tents on the banks near a swamp of fresh water which
borders on it and the lake, from which we were distant about one
mile and a half. The inlet was brackish, and must have a
considerable body of fresh water near its head. In our route we had
disturbed a large party of natives, some of whom were busily
employed in preparing bark for a new canoe. There were several
canoes on the lake, in which they all fled in great confusion;
leaving their arms and utensils of every description behind them.
One of the canoes was sufficiently large to hold nine men, and
resembled a boat; of course we left their property untouched,
though we afterwards regretted we did not seize one of their
canoes, which we might easily have done. We however determined to
send back in the morning for the unfinished canoe, and try our
skill in completing it for use. The ground passed over for the last
six miles was hilly and very stony, but covered with excellent
timber of all descriptions, and also good grass. There were plenty
of kangaroos, but we had but one dog able to run; so that we
succeeded in killing only a small one.</p>
<p>October 15.�A party was sent back early this morning to
secure the canoe, while we examined the river. The people returned
in the course of the forenoon unsuccessful, as the natives had
removed it with all their effects in the course of the night,
throwing down and destroying their guniahs or bark huts. We also
found that about a mile higher up the river, a branch from it
joined that which we last crossed about two miles back, making an
island of the ground we were upon. The main branch continued to run
to the north-north-west, and north-west. We therefore lost no time
in returning part of the way to the entrance into the haven, (which
we named after Lord Camden), where we proposed to construct a
canoe. The natives seem very numerous, but are shy: we saw many
large canoes on the lake, one of which would be quite sufficient
for our purposes.</p>
<p>October 18.�On Friday we returned to the entrance of the
haven, and immediately commenced our endeavours to construct a
canoe: our first essays were unsuccessful, but by Saturday night we
had a bark one completed, which we hoped would answer our purpose;
though I think if the natives saw it they would ridicule our rude
attempts. This morning, the ebb tide answering, we commenced
transporting our luggage, and in three hours every thing was safe
over. A very serious misfortune however occurred in swimming the
horses across: two of them were seized with the cramp near the
middle of the channel, one with difficulty gained the shore, the
other sank instantly and was seen no more; he was one of our best
and strongest horses, and even now their weak state can ill afford
a diminution in their number. This haven appears to have a
perfectly safe entrance for boats and small craft at all times of
tide, except at dead low water with a strong surge from the
eastward, when it slightly breaks, but is still quite safe for
boats if not for larger vessels. When we were in it, there appeared
a safe and deep channel through the sand shoals which spread over
it: the channel also appeared deep leading into the inner haven.
There is plenty of fresh water in swamps, on almost every part of
the shore on which we were. The higher lands abound with good
timber, the points nearest the sea being covered with Banksia
integrifolia, of large dimensions, fit for any kind of boat timber.
It is high water full and change at ten minutes after nine, and the
tide appears to rise between four and six feet. From a point near
the entrance, several bearings were taken; and we also saw another
large lake, or perhaps fresh water lagoon, Under the southernmost
of the Three Brothers. A sunken rock was also discovered off to
sea, lying upwards of two miles from the next point southerly of
us, and bearing S. 5. W.: a deep clear channel lies between it and
the shore. At one o'clock we departed, and by sunset had
accomplished near fourteen miles of our journey. We saw the large
lake under the Brothers from a high point on the coast very
clearly, and found that on the north it was bounded by the North
Brother, and separated from the sea by a strip of low marshy land
about three quarters of a mile wide. This lake I think is a fresh
water one: it was named Watson Taylor's Lake. The country west and
southerly of the Brothers consisted of low forest hills; and a
range of hills of moderate height, the entrance of which bore
west-south-west distant twenty or twenty-five miles, ended near
Cape Hawke, the country being to that range very low with marshes.
A strip of sandy land half a mile wide bounds the shore, on which
is good grass and water. On the beach where we halted we found a
small boat nearly buried in the sand, but quite perfect. It had
belonged to a Hawkesbury vessel, belonging to one Mills, which had
been lost some time ago, and the crew of which perished. We halted
on the beach, the South Brother bearing W. 32. N., and the Reef N.
53�. E., and which we now saw extended near three quarters of a
mile north and south, and lying two marine miles from the shore. It
appears dangerous, since in fine weather (as to-day) the north part
of the reef only breaks occasionally.</p>
<p>October 19.�Proceeded on our journey up the coast: on
attempting to cut off a point of land which would have saved us a
distance of some miles, we found that the low part of the country
was an entire fresh water swamp, interspersed with thick barren
brushes, in all respects resembling the country between Sydney and
Botany Bay. We therefore returned again on the beach, and crossing
nearer to the point in question found the remains of a hut, which
had evidently been constructed by Europeans, the saw and axe having
been employed on it. About four miles farther on the beach, towards
Cape Hawke, our progress was stopped by a very extensive inlet, the
mouth of which was nearly a mile wide. It was near high water, and
the sea broke right across with tremendous violence, affording us
little hope, circumstanced as we were, of being able to effect a
passage. As we had always experienced the difficulty, not to say
impracticability of attempting to go round such inlets as these. we
stopped about half a mile inside the entrance, on a spot affording
good grass and water for the horses, the greater part of which were
entirely knocked up; insomuch that I began to fear we would take
very few of them to Newcastle. It being early in the day, a party
proceeded to explore the shores of the inlet, to ascertain if it
was possible for us to proceed round it. After several hours'
examination, and walking from six to eight miles, we were obliged
to give up all intention of proceeding circuitously; and found that
our efforts must be directed to effect a passage near the entrance,
since numerous fresh water runs having their source in deep and
impassable swamps or lagoons, presented an insurmountable barrier
to the horses. The main inlet extended in two wide and extensive
branches to the south-west and west, the termination of which could
not be seen, the water being apparently deep; and the country to
the westward rising into forest hills. In this perplexing
situation, with no other prospect before us but that of effecting
our own passage in a bark canoe, and being obliged to leave the
horses behind us; since the width of the channel (which at low
water we had the satisfaction to perceive did not exceed a quarter
of a mile) and the extreme rapidity of the tide, which ran at the
rate of at least three miles per hour, precluded all reasonable
hope that, in their present weak state, they would have strength to
swim over. In this state, the boat which had been washed on the
beach suddenly occurred to us. It was true that we were twelve or
fourteen miles distant from it, and that we should have to carry
her that distance on men's shoulders, but to persons in our
situation such difficulties were as nothing. It was therefore
determined that twelve men should depart before day, and use their
efforts to bring her to the tent, whilst those that remained to
take care of the horses and baggage should be preparing materials
to give her such repair as must necessarily be required. We had now
fully experienced how little dependance can be placed on the best
marine charts, to show all the inlets and openings upon an
extensive line of coast. Perhaps no charts can be more accurate
than those published by Captain Flinders, the situation of the
principal headlands and capes, with the direction of the coast,
being laid down with the most minute attention to truth; but the
distance at which he was obliged to keep, although it did not
prevent him from laying the coast line down with an accuracy of
outline sufficient for all nautical purposes, did not allow him to
perceive openings which, though doubtless of little consequence to
shipping, yet present the most serious obstacles to travellers by
land; and of which, if they had been laid down in the chart, I
should have hesitated to have attempted the passage without some
assistance from the seaward, or means wherewith to have constructed
boats. From our station on the north shore of the inlet, the
extreme of Cape Hawke bore south 7�. W., and the highest part of
the Southern Brother, north 161. W.: a break in the land between
high ranges of hills bore west, and was distant from seventeen to
twenty miles. Black swans are very numerous on this inlet: few
marks of the natives having remained here for any time were
observed, at least on this side; recent marks of two men having
traversed the shore being all that were seen.</p>
<p>October 20.�At four o'clock the people set out to bring
the boat, and at two o'clock they had brought her safely to the
tent, having gone in that time upwards of twenty-six miles,
thirteen of which they carried a twelve feet boat on their
shoulders; a proof how much may be effected by a steady
perseverance. In fact, I had no occasion to be anxious for the
result of any measure which at all depended on their personal
exertions. We had the satisfaction to find that the boat would be
easily repaired, wanting little besides caulking and oars, and we
did not lose a moment in commencing the necessary operations. It
has blown a gale of wind from the south all day, the surge breaking
across the inlet with extreme violence: within the bar the water is
very deep, and in moderate weather at flood tides there is
doubtless a boat passage over the bar; for, notwithstanding the
break, there appears a sufficient depth of water. Whatever channel
there may be is on the north side of the entrance. I think, from
the height of the rise of tide (between four and seven feet), and
the rapidity with which it runs, that this inlet must penetrate a
very considerable distance into the country; and probably the lake
which we took to be fresh water under the two Southern Brothers,
may be a principal branch of this lake. It appears to be high water
at the full and change at about forty minutes after nine.</p>
<p>October 22.�Yesterday was employed in giving the boat such
repairs as our means permitted. Before six o'clock this morning we
had transported a good part of the baggage, when, the tide
answering, we began towing the horses over, which we safely
effected by half past eight. I consider the discovery of this boat
most providential, for without its assistance we should never have
been able to transport the horses: being obliged to cross near the
entrance, the force of the tide and their own weakness would have
swept them among the breakers, and they would consequently have
perished. We lost no time in pursuing our journey up the coast, and
had by four o'clock accomplished six miles, when, to our great
mortification, another inlet barred our progress. The southerly
gale. attended with incessant rain, had by this time increased to
such a degree, that we could take no steps this evening to cross
it. By the time the tents were pitched every thing was drenched
with rain; and I think we felt the cold it occasioned more severely
than on any similar occasion. I should be of opinion that this
inlet communicated with the one we last crossed, as branches from
each take such courses as would, I think, cause them to unite. The
last inlet was named Harrington Lake, in honour of the noble earl
of that title.</p>
<p>October 23.�The storm continued through the night. Late in
the morning we had intervals of fine weather, when all our strength
was immediately despatched to bring up our little boat, as we found
that we could not cross without its aid. When the people returned
with the boat, it blew with such violence that we dared not venture
to cross in her. We however moved a little nearer the point of
entrance, to be more conveniently situated when the weather should
clear up. The men voluntarily undertook to carry the boat on their
shoulders until we should pass Port Stephens�a service,
reduced as their strength was by constant exertion, I should have
been unwilling to impose on them, however it might facilitate our
future progress.</p>
<p>October 24.�The weather was so extremely unfavourable
(blowing in violent squalls with almost constant rain), that it was
near dark before we got every thing safely over. I had sent on in
the morning to examine the beach for a few miles, and another inlet
was discovered about four miles in advance. We named this lake
Farquhar's Lake, after Sir Walter.</p>
<p>October 25.�From the southern point of entrance into this
lake the following bearings were taken. The highest part of the
South Brother, north 6. E.; ditto North Brother, north 18. E.; Cape
Hawke, south 3. E. We set forward at our usual hour. At a mile
along the beach we found the wreck of a small vessel, which was
recognised to be the Jane, of Sydney, belonging to Mills, before
mentioned as the owner of the boat in our possession. It being low
water when we arrived at the lagoon seen yesterday, we crossed it
at the mouth, without unlading the horses. We proceeded along the
beach for six or seven miles farther, when we turned off to the
westward to cut off a point of land, and entered an excellent
rising forest country, with rich thick brushes, bordering the coast
line. We travelled in the whole about nine miles and a half, and
halted about three quarters of a mile from the beach, from a point
of which (one mile south-south-east of us), we saw Cape Hawke
bearing east 73. S., distant six or eight miles; and at the
extremity of a long curving sandy beach, about six miles west of
the same point, there was an opening which, from the appearance of
the country, we thought might probably form a lake.</p>
<p>October 26.�Two miles and a half farther travelling
brought us again on the beach, along which we went for near seven
miles more, when the opening or lake seen from the point yesterday
obliged us to make use of our boat. On the opposite side to us we
saw the wreck of the brig Governor Hunter, now nearly covered with
sand, at high water the tide washing over her. We had got the
horses and great part of the luggage safely over, and I was on the
point of setting out to look for a place to turn the horses on (the
immediate margin of the bay being a swampy brush); when an alarm
was given, that the natives had speared one of the people. Previous
to crossing, we had seen them in great numbers on the side opposite
to us, probably to the amount of seventy of all ages; but on seeing
us launch our boat, they got into canoes and went two or three
miles farther up the lake, still keeping on the south side. On the
north side we did not see any natives, and although on both sides
of the lake we were prepared for them, had they shown themselves in
numbers on the beach, yet all were not on their guard against
individual treachery. One of the men, William Blake, had entered
the brushes about a hundred yards from the rest of the people on
the north side, with the design of cutting a cabbage palm: he had
cut one about half through, when he received a spear through his
back, the point of it sticking against his breast bone. On turning
his head round to see from whence he was attacked, he received
another, which passed several inches through the lower part of his
body: he let fall the axe with which he was cutting, and which was
instantly seized by a native, the only one he saw; and it was
probably the temptation of the axe that was the principal
incitement to the attack. Blake was immediately put into the boat
and sent over to the south side, where the doctor was, who
fortunately succeeded in extracting both the spears; but from the
nature of the wounds, his chance of recovery was considered very
doubtful. It was so late before every thing was got over, that we
were obliged to remain on the spot close to the wreck of the
Governor Hunter. The natives before dark had assembled in great
numbers, and we could count twelve or fourteen fires from their
camps. United as we were, we had little to fear from their attacks,
particularly in the night; and we remained so short a time at any
place, that we did not give them time to make any concerted attack.
The country west and south-west of this lagoon is rising forest
land of pleasant appearance; but the shores are flat, with thick
brushes and steep fresh water swamps. The lagoon itself is at low
water nothing but a sand shoal, with narrow and shallow channels.
The surf beats quite across the entrance, and though at high water
a small vessel might beat over the bar, it would be a mere chance
if she escaped being lost upon the sand-rollers inside, the surf
breaking with a flood tide and easterly wind full half a mile
within the outer bar. The tides run near four miles per hour, and
the rise is from five to eight feet. From the south side of the
entrance into the lake the highest part of the North Brother bore
north 15. E.; ditto of the South Brother, north 8. 10. E. The point
of land of the bay northerly, distant seven or eight miles north 8.
30. E.; and a high bluff point or projection southerly, north 163.
30. E.</p>
<p>October 27.�We did not make much progress this day, being
greatly embarrassed by the thick brushes which border on the coast
in the vicinity of Cape Hawke, and fresh water swamps near the edge
of the lake. There was, however, a good deal of forest land, and
the brushes grew in good soil. We halted in the afternoon, having
gone only four miles (Cape Hawke bearing east distant two miles and
a half), on a piece of forest land surrounded by brush, through
which, however, in the course of the evening we cut a road to the
beach, to the southward of Cape Hawke. From a hill on that line we
saw that the lake was much more extensive than it was first
supposed to be, reaching in a southerly direction to the base of
the forest hills, which run a north-west line from the next point
of south of Cape Hawke, and within a quarter of a mile of the
beach. To the north-west we could trace it upwards of twenty miles,
winding among forest hills and a generally fine looking country.
The lake was studded with numerous islands of forest lands, the
interior of the lake being apparently deep water with sandy beaches
to the main and islands. The whole appearance of the lake was
extremely picturesque and beautiful.</p>
<p>October 28.�This day's journey afforded tolerably good
travelling, with the exception of the last two miles, when,
quitting the beach, we ascended a high hill over the lake, and
again descended to a small bay under a point of land south of Cape
Hawke, where we halted for the evening: having accomplished ten
miles. Although we were obliged to halt the greater part of the
day, the extreme heat of the weather, combined with the motion of
the horse, rendered it impossible for our poor wounded man to
proceed. From this point Cape Hawke bore North Peak on Ditto 357.,
highest part of the South Brother, N. 1. E.; North Brother, N. 7.
E.; line of coast westerly, N. 306.; a point N. 328� mile; ditto N.
136�. E.; ten or twelve chains islet of Sugarloaf Point, N. 168.
The rocks off ditto, N. 173. Sugarloaf Point, 174�.</p>
<p>October 29.�The coast projecting into bold and
perpendicular headlands obliged us to keep at a distance from it,
and travel over an elevated range, from whence we saw that an
extensive series of lakes, probably forming one large one,
continued at the back of the coast line nearly as far as Blackhead.
At five miles we descended from the range on a small beach which
terminated our day's journey; the nature of the coast line
preventing us from travelling along it. I therefore went with two
men to mark out a road for the horses to the beach on the
south-west side of Sugarloaf Point. The line we were obliged to
pursue, led us through a most miserable scrubby country, formed
into irregular steep hills of white sand, without a blade of grass,
or herbage of any kind; but with abundance of small black butted
gums, red gums, etc. We found the road across, to be too far for us
to attempt this evening. Indeed it was near sunset when I returned
to the tent. The natives are extremely numerous along this part of
the coast; these extensive lakes, which abound with fish, being
extremely favourable to their easy subsistence: large troops of
them appear on the beaches, whilst their canoes on the lakes are
equally numerous. In the morning their fires are to be observed in
every direction: they evidently appear to shun us, and we have no
wish for a farther acquaintance. When we stopped for the night, the
lake was only separated from the sea by a narrow neck of sand, and
at spring tides, with an easterly wind, it must be forced over it.
This neck of sand appears likely to be occasionally washed away,
and to form a shallow opening into this portion of the lake. Its
principal entrance I expect to find southerly; we however observed
no tides in it, which makes us conclude it will have but a shoal
entrance. From this point, the Sugarloaf Point, and island of it in
one, bore N. 14�, and the direction of the lake was N. 275.</p>
<p>October 30.�We passed for five miles and a half through
the country described yesterday, when we arrived on the beach
south-west of the Sugarloaf Point. The rock off ditto bearing N.
88. E.; Shoal of ditto, 120., and Blackhead, N. 212�; we went
nearly six miles farther on the beach, and halted near a rocky
point for the evening. This beach was a peculiarly productive one
to us; a great number of fine fish resembling salmon, had been
pursued through the surf by larger fish, and were left dry by the
retiring tide: we picked up thirty-six, and a welcome prize they
proved to us. We had just got the tents pitched, when a number of
unarmed natives appeared upon the hill near us, and among them a
woman and a child. As they came in peace, so in peace were they
received. They approached the tents without any hesitation, and in
the course of an hour, their numbers amounted to upwards of thirty,
men, women, and children. Most of these people seemed to have been
at Newcastle, and appeared a friendly and peaceable set. We did all
in our power to continue these good dispositions by shaving the
men, cutting the hair of the children, and bestowing on them such
little articles as we could spare; not without a hope, that our
kindness might be of service to others, who might under different
circumstances be thrown among them. They were so far from showing
the least jealousy of their women, that every circumstance
indicated that their favours might be purchased: however that may
be, we did not avail ourselves of this privilege. Kindling their
fires close to our tents, they seemed to have taken up their
quarters for the night. The weather had appeared to threaten rain,
and as they all departed about ten o'clock, it was attributed to
the circumstance of their being without shelter; and we expected a
friendly visit from them in the morning. From this station,
Blackhead bore N. 197.; and the island off Sugarloaf Point, N. 70.
E. The peak over the north entrance into Port Stephens, N. 211.</p>
<p>October 31.�The rain of the night still continuing in the
morning, and the tide not being sufficiently low to let us pass
round the head, we did not set off so early as usual. Dr. Harris
and Mr. Evans had gone to bathe near the point, and within one
hundred and fifty yards of the tent. Mr. Evans had already bathed
and had began to dress himself, when four natives, whom we
recognised as being among those whom we had treated so kindly
yesterday, made their appearance with their spears in their hands,
in the attitude of throwing them from the cliffs above. There was
scarcely time to parley with them, when a spear was thrown at Mr.
Evans, Dr. Harris having leaped down the rock into the sea, and
escaped to the tent under its shelter. The spear fortunately missed
Mr. Evans, and he likewise escaped with the loss of his clothes, by
following the doctor's example. On the alarm being given they were
pursued, but they had disappeared among the brush on the hill. This
instance of their treachery redoubled our circumspection, and our
situation here being favourable for their attacks, I determined to
pass over the brow of the hill with the horses�a road which
from its extreme steepness, I had been willing to avoid by waiting
for the tide; and orders were given to collect the horses and
proceed on our route. Whilst this was doing, and as I was sitting
in the tent with Dr. Harris and Mr. Evans writing this Journal, a
shower of spears from the height above was thrown at the tent, one
of which passed directly over my shoulder, and entered the ground
at my feet: the others lodged around the tent, and among the people
who were getting ready the baggage, but providentially without
doing any harm. We had stationed men to watch the hill, but the
appearance of the natives and the flight of their spears was so
instantaneous, that they had not time to alarm us. To enable us
therefore to proceed in safety it was necessary to clear the hill,
which was soon done; for on our ascending that hill, they took
their station on another more distant. We travelled unmolested
along the beach for upwards of twelve miles, when we halted for the
evening on a small point of clear land, which at high water was an
island. Here we found ourselves secure: we had however but just
unladen, when three natives were seen coming along the beach from
the side of Port Stephens. We knew that the party which had behaved
so treacherously had gone that way, and we suspected that these men
were sent to see whether we were disposed to resent their conduct:
they appeared unarmed, each holding up a fish as a peace offering
to us: but when they were within three hundred yards of us, they
stopped, and not receiving any encouragement from us to advance,
after halting a few minutes, they returned with all speed along the
beach to their companions. I had determined if they had approached
nearer to have made an example of them: and for the future, never
to suffer them to come near us at all. I was very much surprised to
find that Blackhead proved to be an island, with a good passage, at
least a mile and a half wide, between it and the main. There
appears excellent anchorage and shelter under it, and indeed it
seems a far better and more convenient roadstead than Port
Stephens, being safe from all winds, with a passage either from
north or south. The relative positions of the points and islands on
this part of the coast, by no means correspond with, nor does the
longitude of Port Stephens agree with that assigned to Sugarloaf
Point by Captain Flinders, who commenced at that point; Port
Stephens, and this part, of the coast, being laid down from other
authorities. From this point, the north head of Port Stephens bore
N. 199.; Sugarloaf Point N. 45. E; and several other bearings were
taken for a sketch of the channel between Blackhead Island, and the
main.</p>
<p>November 1.�We departed early in the morning, and at three
O'clock arrived at Port Stephens. The natives had assembled in
considerable numbers at the back of the beach, and being armed, we
suspected their intention to be, to throw at us from the bank and
brush as we passed. On the advance of four men who were sent to
clear the bank of them, they quickly retired, and did not show
themselves again until we had passed. They appeared to be as
cowardly as treacherous: and I am convinced, that all the mischief
they do, arises from a misplaced confidence in their seeming
friendly dispositions. A single person of his guard is sure to fall
a sacrifice to their thirst for plunder. As we were unable to pass
this port without the assistance of a large boat, it was determined
that Mr. Evans and three men should cross the port in our own boat
and proceed to Newcastle, from which settlement we were distant
about thirty-six miles; and procure such aid as the commandant
could afford us, together with a supply of provisions, our own
being nearly exhausted.</p>
<p>November 5.�Mr. Evans and party set forward at day-light
on Monday morning, and arrived the same evening at Newcastle. The
commandant, Captain Wallis of the 46th regiment, lost not a moment
in dispatching a large boat with an abundance of every comfort that
could be acceptable to travellers in our situation. We had also the
satisfaction to learn generally the welfare of our friends in
Sydney.</p>
<hr>
<h2><a name="ch-3" id="ch-3"></a>APPENDIX. PART I.</h2>
<h3><a name="ch-3-1" id="ch-3-1"></a>No. I.</h3>
<p>By His Excellency, Lachlan Macquarie, Esq., Captain General, and
Governor in Chief of the Territory of New South Wales, and its
dependencies, etc. etc.</p>
<p>INSTRUCTIONS FOR JOHN OXLEY, ESQ., SURVEYOR GENERAL OF
LANDS.</p>
<p>Sir,</p>
<p>The Right Honourable Earl Bathurst, His Majesty's principal
Secretary of State for the Colonies, having in a recent despatch
authorised and directed me to select and employ a properly
qualified and competent officer belonging to this government, for
conducting and leading an expedition for the purpose of prosecuting
the discoveries made some time since to the westward of the Blue
Mountains of New South Wales, by Mr. George William Evans, deputy
surveyor of lands; and reposing especial trust and confidence in
your abilities, zeal and diligence, for conducting and leading such
an expedition: I do hereby constitute and appoint you in virtue of
the powers in me vested, to be chief of the expedition now fitting
out to prosecute the discoveries to the westward of the Blue
Mountains in the interior of the continent of Australia. You are
accordingly to be obeyed and respected as chief of this expedition,
and to be governed generally during the continuance of it, by the
following instructions.</p>
<p>First.�With the view of facilitating the objects of the
present expedition, and in justice to his former zealous and
successful exertions in making the original discoveries in the
interior, to the westward of the Blue Mountains; the Right
Honourable the Secretary of State has directed, that in the farther
prosecution of these discoveries, Mr. George William Evans, deputy
surveyor of lands, should be associated with the person appointed
to head and direct the expedition; and to be considered the second
in command of it. You are therefore to consider Mr. Evans as next
in command to yourself during the progress of the expedition, and
to consult with him on all operations and points connected
therewith; it being presumed from his local experience in the
interior, he will be able to afford you very useful information and
assistance.</p>
<p>Second.�Exclusive of yourself and Mr. Evans, I have deemed
it advisable to permit Mr. Allan Cunningham, one of the King's
botanists, (lately sent out to this country, for the purpose of
collecting plants and seeds for His Majesty's gardens at Kew), to
accompany the expedition. I have also ordered ten other persons to
accompany you on the expedition in the various capacities of
assistants, or servants; and herewith you will receive a schedule
of their names, and respective designations, or employments.</p>
<p>Third.�In order to give every facility to the objects of
the expedition now fitting out, and to afford you the means of
prolonging your absence from headquarters, and consequently
extending the range of your discoveries, I have deemed it advisable
to furnish yourself and party with a sufficient supply of good
wholesome provisions for five months; in which space of time, it is
concluded, you will be able to ascertain all the important objects
of the expedition. And in order that this five months supply of
provisions may remain untouched, until you shall have taken your
final departure from the last discovered point on the Lachlan
River, I have had a depot lately established there for the purpose
of lodging the five months provisions, till your arrival at that
point; the necessary number of <i>b�t</i> horses having been
provided for conveying the provisions thither; and it has been
lately reported to me, that almost the whole of the five months
provisions have already been conveyed to the depot on the Lachlan
River, and that the remaining part thereof will he deposited there
in the course of seven days from this date. You will herewith
receive a schedule, or account of the provisions, together with a
list of the <i>b�t</i> horses, and other various equipments
furnished and sent to the depot on the banks of the Lachlan River,
for the use of the expedition. I hope it is unnecessary for me to
point out or recommend to a person of your experience, the absolute
necessity of observing every possible economy in the expenditure of
your provisions, and preventing every possible waste thereof, so as
to make them hold out for the full space of time they are intended
to last. There is an ample and liberal daily ration of provisions
allowed and sent for each person sufficient for five months; and
you must make it your particular business to see that there shall
be no waste or loss in the issuing, or carriage of your stock of
provisions.</p>
<p>Fourth.�Having been informed, first from the reports of
Mr. Evans, the original discoverer of the Lachlan River, and
subsequently from those of William Cox, Esq., who went thither
lately at my particular request, that there was every reason from
its appearance to conclude that that river would be found to be
navigable for small boats; I some time since sent a boat builder
for the purpose of constructing two light boats for navigating this
river, and conveying the provisions and stores for the expedition
along it, to its junction with the sea, in case it should be found
to fall into it, which there is every reason to hope it does. In
the event of this hope being realized, it will greatly facilitate
the objects of the expedition to be able thus to transport all your
provisions, and other equipments, by water, instead of the tedious
process of carrying them by land on the backs of horses, through a
woody and intricate country.</p>
<p>Fifth.�The three grand and principal objects of the
present expedition are:�First, to ascertain the real course
or general direction of the Lachlan River, and its final
termination, and whether it falls into the sea, or into some inland
lake. Secondly, if the river falls into the sea, to ascertain the
exact place of its embouchure, and whether such place would answer
as a safe and good port for shipping: and thirdly, the general face
of the country, nature of the soil, woods, and animal and natural
productions of the country through which this river passes;
carefully examining and noting down each of these particulars, and
adding thereto the nature of the climate, and description of such
natives or aborigines of the country as you may happen to see, or
fall in with in your progress through it.</p>
<p>For your farther information and guidance, you will receive
herewith a paper marked A, which is a copy of one lately received
by me from Earl Bathurst, His Majesty's principal Secretary of
State for the colonies, and which I am directed by his lordship to
make the groundwork of my instructions to the officer whom I might
think proper to select for, and entrust with the due execution of
the services therein required. And I therefore refer you for all
farther instructions to the paper thus alluded to; persuaded you
will do every thing in your power to comply with and execute, as
far as your means will allow, the several orders and directions
therein contained; communicating these instructions to the several
persons employed with you on the expedition, in as far as they are
severally concerned in making the observations and collections
pointed out in the said instructions from the Secretary of
State.</p>
<p>Sixth.�It will of course be necessary in order to
ascertain the exact distance and direction of your journies, whilst
prosecuting your discoveries, that the country through which you
travel shall be regularly chained and laid down upon a chart; but I
leave it optional with yourself to do this either during your
outward or homeward bound journey; and as it is expected that the
Lachlan River will be found to empty itself into that part of the
sea on the south-west coast of Australia, between Spencer's Gulf
and Cape Otway, it is hoped you will he able to make all the
necessary discoveries, and return again to Bathurst considerably
within five months; as the greatest distance from thence to that
part of the coast, where the river is supposed to fall into it,
cannot exceed six hundred miles. It is also hoped and expected,
that the Lachlan and Macquarie Rivers unite at some distant point
from where Mr. Evans terminated his trace of the Lachlan River; and
in case these two rivers are found to form a junction, the exact
place of their confluence must be clearly and exactly ascertained
in regard to latitude and longitude, and noted down accordingly.
The latitude and longitude of the junction of both or either of
these rivers with the sea, or inland lake, must also be accurately
ascertained and marked down in the chart to be made of your entire
tour and discoveries.</p>
<p>Seventh.�On your return from your journey to the sea-coast
to Bathurst, you are to direct all the journals or other written
documents belonging to, and curiosities collected by the several
individuals composing the expedition, to be carefully sealed up
with your own seal, and kept in that state until after you have
made your report in writing to me at Sydney, of the result of the
expedition.</p>
<p>Eighth.�I have only to add, that I wish you to set out
from Sydney on the present service, on Monday, the 31st of this
present month, so as to arrive at Bathurst, on or before the 8th of
the ensuing month.</p>
<p>On your arrival at Bathurst, you will find William Cox, Esq.,
there, and to him I beg leave to refer you for every information
relative to the provisions, stores, horses for carriage, and other
equipments ordered to be forwarded to the depot on the Lachlan
River, for the use of the expedition; the arrangement and
conveyance of all which has been wholly entrusted to him. Mr. Cox
having promised to accompany you as far as the depot on the Lachlan
River, he will be able to remove any unforeseen difficulties that
may arise on your arrival there, in getting the provisions and
stores for the use of the expedition forwarded.</p>
<p>Wishing every success may attend the expedition under your
command, and a safe return to all the individuals composing it;</p>
<p>I remain, Sir,<br>
Your most obedient servant,<br>
(Signed,) L. MACQUARIE,<br>
Governor in chief of New South Wales.<br>
Government House, Sydney,<br>
March 24, 1817.</p>
<hr>
<p>�A.�</p>
<p>COPY OF INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE SECRETARY OF
STATE.</p>
<p>Downing Street, April 18, 1816.</p>
<p>It is most desirable that any person travelling into the
interior should keep a detailed Journal of his proceedings. In this
Journal all observations and occurrences of every kind, with all
their circumstances, however minute, and however familiar they may
have been rendered by custom, should be carefully noted down; and
it is also desirable that he should be as circumstantial as
possible in describing the general appearance of the country, its
surface, soil, animals, vegetables and minerals, every thing that
relates to the population, the peculiar manners, customs, language,
etc., of the individual natives, or the tribes of them that he may
meet with.</p>
<p>The following however will be among the most important subjects,
on which it will be more immediately the province of a traveller to
endeavour to obtain information.</p>
<p>The general nature of the climate, as to the heat, cold,
moisture, winds, rains, etc.; the temperature regularly registered
from Fahrenheit's thermometer, as observed at two or three periods
of the day.</p>
<p>The direction of the mountains; their general appearance as to
shape, whether detached, or continuous in ranges.</p>
<p>The rivers, and their several branches, their direction,
velocity, breadth and depth.</p>
<p>The animals, whether birds, beasts, or fishes, reptiles,
insects, etc., distinguishing those animals, if any, which appear
to have been domesticated by the natives.</p>
<p>The vegetables, and particularly those that are applicable to
any useful purpose, whether in medicine, dyeing, etc.; any scented
woods, or such as may be adapted for cabinet work, or furniture,
and more particularly such woods as may appear to be useful in
ship-building; of all which it would be desirable to procure small
specimens, labelled and numbered, so that an easy reference may be
made to them in the Journal, to ascertain the quantities in which
they are found, and the situations in which they grow.</p>
<p>Minerals, any of the precious metals, or stones, if used or
valued by the natives.</p>
<p>With respect to the animals, vegetables, and minerals, it is
desirable that specimens of the most remarkable should be preserved
as far as the means of the traveller will admit, and especially the
seeds of any plants not hitherto known: when the preservation of
specimens is impossible, drawings or detailed accounts of them are
most desirable.</p>
<p>The description, and characteristic difference, of the several
people whom he way meet; the extent of the population, their
occupation, and means of subsistence; whether chiefly, or to what
extent, by fishing, hunting, or agriculture, and the principal
objects of their several pursuits.</p>
<p>A circumstantial account of such articles, if any, as might be
advantageously imported into Great Britain.</p>
<p>A vocabulary of the language spoken by the natives whom he may
meet, using in the compilation of each the same English words.</p>
<p>If the people are sufficiently numerous to form tribes, it is
important to ascertain their condition, and rules of the society;
their genius and disposition; the nature of their amusements; their
diseases and remedies, etc.; their objects of worship, religious
ceremonies; and the influence of those ceremonies on their moral
character and conduct.</p>
<p>(Signed) JOHN THOMAS CAMPBELL, Sec.<br>
(True copy.)</p>
<hr>
<h3>No. Ia.</h3>
<p>LIST OF THE NAMES AND DESIGNATIONS OF THE SEVERAL PERSONS
PROCEEDING ON THE EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY, UNDER THE COMMAND OF
JOHN OXLEY, ESQ., SURVEYOR GENERAL OF LANDS.</p>
<p>1 John Oxley, Esq., chief of the expedition.<br>
2 Mr. George William Evans, second in command.<br>
3 Mr. Allan Cunningham, King's botanist.<br>
4 Charles Fraser, colonial botanist.<br>
5 William Parr, mineralogist.<br>
6 George Hubbard, boat-builder.<br>
7 James King, 1st boatman, and sailor.<br>
8 James King, 2nd horse-shoer.<br>
9 William Meggs, butcher.<br>
10 Patrick Byrne, guide and horse leader.<br>
11 William Blake, harness-mender.<br>
12 George Simpson, for chaining with surveyors.<br>
13 William Warner, servant to Mr. Oxley.<br>
<br>
(Signed,) L. MACQUARIE.<br>
Sydney,<br>
March 2,1, 1817.</p>
<hr>
<h3><a name="ch-3-2" id="ch-3-2"></a>No. II</h3>
<p>Government House, Sydney,<br>
June 10, 1815.</p>
<p>Mr. Cox having reported the road as completed on the 21st of
January, the governor, accompanied by Mr. Macquarie, and that
gentleman, commenced his tour on the 25th of April last, over the
Blue Mountains, and was joined by Sir John Jamison, at the Nepean,
who accompanied him during the entire tour. The following gentlemen
composed the governor's suite: Mr. Campbell, secretary; Captain
Antill, major of brigade; Lieutenant Watts, aid-de-camp; Mr.
Redfern, assistant surgeon; Mr. Oxley, surveyor general; Mr.
Meehan, deputy surveyor general; Mr. Lewin, painter, and
naturalist; and Mr. G. W. Evans, deputy surveyor of lands, who had
been sent forward for the purpose of making farther discoveries,
and rejoined the party on the day of arrival at Bathurst
Plains.</p>
<p>The commencement of the ascent from Emu Plains, to the first
depot, and then to a resting-place, now called Spring Wood, distant
twelve miles from Emu Ford, was through a very handsome forest of
lofty trees, and much more practicable and easy than was expected.
The facility of the ascent for this distance excited surprise, and
is certainly not well calculated to give the traveller a just idea
of the difficulties he has afterwards to encounter.</p>
<p>At a farther distance of four miles, a sudden change is
perceived in the appearance of the timber, and the quality of the
soil; the former becoming stunted, and the latter barren and rocky.
At this place the fatigues of the journey may be said to commence;
here the country became altogether mountainous, and extremely
rugged. Near to the eighteenth mile mark (it is to be observed the
measure commences from Emu Ford), a pile of stones attracted
attention; it is close to the line of road, on the top of a rugged
and abrupt ascent, and is supposed to have been placed by Mr.
Caley, as the extreme limit of his tour; hence the governor gave
that part of the mountain the name of Caley's Repulse. To have
penetrated even so far, was an effort of no small difficulty. From
hence forward to the twenty-sixth mile is a succession of steep and
rugged hills, some of which are almost so abrupt as to deny a
passage altogether; but at this place a considerably extensive
plain is arrived at, which constitutes the summit of the western
mountains, and from thence a most extensive and beautiful prospect
presents itself on all sides to the eye. The town of Windsor, the
River Hawkesbury, Prospect Hill, and other objects within that part
of the colony now inhabited, of equal interest, are distinctly seen
from hence. The majestic grandeur of the situation, combined with
the various objects to be seen from this place, induced the
governor to give it the appellation of the King's Table Land. On
the south-west side of the King's Table Land, the mountain
terminates in abrupt precipices of immense depth; at the bottom of
which is seen a glen, as romantically beautiful as can be imagined,
bounded on the farther side by mountains of great magnitude,
terminating equally abruptly as the others; and the whole whole
thickly covered with timber. The length of this picturesque and
remarkable tract of country is about twenty-four miles, to which
the governor gave the name of the Prince Regent's Glen. Proceeding
hence to the thirty-third mile, on the top of a hill an opening
presents itself on the south-west side of the Prince Regent's Glen,
from whence a view obtained particularly beautiful and grand:
mountains rising beyond mountains, with stupendous masses of rock
in the fore ground, here strike the eye with admiration and
astonishment. The circular form in which the whole is so
wonderfully disposed, induced the governor to give the name of
Pitt's Amphitheatre to this offset or branch from the Prince
Regent's Glen. The road continues from hence for the space of
seventeen miles, on the ridge of the mountain which forms one side
of the Prince Regent's Glen, and there it suddenly terminates in
nearly a perpendicular precipice of six hundred and seventy-six
feet high, as ascertained by measurement. The road constructed by
Mr. Cox down this rugged and tremendous descent, through all its
windings, is no less than three fourths of a mile in length, and
has been executed with such skill and dexterity as reflects much
credit to him: the labour here undergone, and the difficulties
surmounted can only be appreciated by those who view this scene. In
order to perpetuate the memory of Mr. Cox's services, the governor
deemed it a tribute justly due to him to give his name to this
grand and extraordinary pass, and he accordingly called it Cox's
Pass. Having descended into the valley at the bottom of this pass,
the retrospective view of the overhanging mountain is magnificently
grand.</p>
<p>Although the present pass is the only practicable point yet
discovered for descending by, yet the mountain is much higher than
those on either side of it, from whence it is distinguished at a
considerable distance: when approaching it from the interior, and
in this point of view, it has the appearance of a very high
distinct hill, although it is in fact only the abrupt termination
of a ridge. The governor gave the name of Mount York to this
termination of the ridge: on descending Cox's Pass, the governor
was much pleased by the appearance of good pasture land, and soil
fit for cultivation, which was the first he had met with since the
commencement of his tour. The valley at the base of Mount York he
called the Vale of Clwyd, in consequence of the strong resemblance
it bore to the vale of that name in North Wales: the grass in this
vale is of a good quality, and very abundant; and a rivulet of fine
water runs along it from the eastward, which unites itself at the
western extremity of the vale with another rivulet, containing
still more water. The junction of these two streams forms a very
fine river, now called by the governor Cox's River; which takes its
course, as has since been re-ascertained, through the Prince
Regent's Glen, and empties itself into the River Nepean; and it is
conjectured from the nature of the country through which it passes,
that it must be one of the principal causes of the floods which
have been occasionally felt on the low banks of the River
Hawkesbury, into which the Nepean discharges itself. The Vale of
Clwyd from the base of Mount York, extends six miles in a westerly
direction, and has its termination at Cox's River. Westward of this
river the country again becomes hilly, but is generally open,
forest land, and very good pasturage. Three miles to the westward
of the Vale of Clwyd, Messrs. Blaxland, Wentworth, and Lawson, had
formerly terminated their excursion; and when the various
difficulties are considered which they had to contend with,
especially until they had effected the descent from Mount York, to
which place they were obliged to pass through a thick brushwood,
where they were under the necessity of cutting a passage for their
baggage horses, the severity of which labour had seriously affected
their healths�their patient endurance of such fatigue cannot
fail to excite much surprise and admiration. In commemoration of
their merits, three beautiful high hills, joining each other at the
end of their tour at this place, have received their names in the
following order, viz., Mount Blaxland, Wentworth's Sugar Loaf, and
Lawson's Sugar Loaf.</p>
<p>A range of very lofty hills and narrow valleys alternately form
the tract from Cox's River, for a distance of sixteen miles, until
the Fish River is arrived at; and the stage between these rivers is
consequently very severe and oppressive to the cattle: to this
range the governor gave the name of Clarence's Hilly Range.
Proceeding from the Fish River and a short distance from it, a very
singular and beautiful mountain attracts the attention, its summit
being crowned with a large and very extraordinary looking rock,
nearly circular in form, which gives to the whole very much the
appearance of a Hill Fort, such as are frequent in India; to this
lofty hill, Mr. Evans, who was the first European discoverer, gave
the name of Mount Evans. Passing on from hence the country
continues hilly, but affords good pasturage; gradually improving to
Sidmouth Valley, which is distant from the pass of the Fish River
eight miles. The land here is level, and the first met with
unencumbered with timber: it is not of very considerable extent,
but abounds with a great variety of herbs and plants, such as would
probably highly interest and gratify the scientific botanist. This
beautiful little valley runs north-west and south-east, between
hills of easy ascent thinly covered with timber. Leaving Sidmouth
Valley the country again becomes hilly, and in other respects
resembles very much the country to the eastward of the valley for
some miles.</p>
<p>Having reached Campbell River, distant thirteen miles from
Sidmouth Valley, the governor was highly gratified by the
appearance of the country, which there began to exhibit an open and
extensive view of gently rising grounds and fertile plains. Judging
from the height of the banks and its general width, the Campbell
River must be on some occasions of very considerable magnitude; but
the extraordinary drought which has apparently prevailed on the
western side of the mountains, equally as throughout this colony
for the last three years, has reduced this river so much, that it
may be more properly called a chain of pools than a running stream
at the present time. In the reaches, or pools of the Campbell
River, the very curious animal called the water mole
(ornithorhynchus paradoxus), is seen in great numbers. The soil on
both banks is uncommonly rich, and the grass is consequently
luxuriant. Two miles to the southward of the line of road which
crosses the Campbell River, there is a very fine rich tract of low
lands which has been named Mitchel Plains.</p>
<p>Wild flax was found here growing in considerable quantities. The
Fish River, which forms a junction with the Campbell River a few
miles to the northward of the road and bridge over the latter, has
also two very fertile plains on its banks, the one called O'Connell
Plains, and the other Macquarie Plains, both of considerable
extent, and very capable of yielding all the necessaries of life.
At the distance of seven miles from the bridge over the Campbell
River, Bathurst Plains open to the view, presenting a rich tract of
champaign country of eleven miles in length, bounded on both sides
by gently rising and very beautiful hills, thinly wooded. The
Macquarie River, which is constituted by the junction of the Fish
and Campbell Rivers, takes a winding course through the plains, and
can be easily traced from the high lands adjoining, by the
particular verdure of the trees on its banks, which are likewise
the only trees throughout the extent of the plains.</p>
<p>The level and clean surface of these plains gives them at first
view very much the appearance of lands in a state of
cultivation.</p>
<p>The governor and his suite arrived at these plains on Thursday,
the 4th of May, and encamped on the southern or left bank of the
Macquarie River; the situation being selected in consequence of its
commanding a beautiful and extensive prospect for many miles in
every direction around it. At this place the governor remained for
a week, which time he occupied in making excursions in different
directions through the adjoining country, on both sides of the
river.</p>
<p>On Sunday, the 7th of May, the governor fixed on a site suitable
for the erection of a town at some future period, to which he gave
the name of Bathurst, in honour of the present Secretary of State
for the colonies. The situation of Bathurst is elevated
sufficiently beyond the reach of any floods which may occur, and is
at the same time so near the river on its south bank, as to derive
all the advantages of its clear and beautiful stream. The
mechanics, and settlers of whatever description, who may be
hereafter permitted to form permanent residences to themselves at
this place, will have the highly important advantages of a rich and
fertile soil, with a beautiful river flowing through it, for all
the uses of man.</p>
<p>The governor must however add, that the hopes which were once so
sanguinely entertained of this river becoming navigable to the
western sea have ended in disappointment. During the week that the
governor remained at Bathurst, he made daily excursions in various
directions: one of these extended twenty-two miles in a south-west
direction, and on that occasion as well as on all the others, he
found the country composed chiefly of valleys and plains, separated
occasionally by ranges of low hills; the soil throughout being
generally fertile, and well circumstanced for the purpose of
agriculture, or grazing.</p>
<p>Within a distance of ten miles from the site of Bathurst, there
is not less than fifty thousand acres of land clear of timber, and
fully one half of that may be considered excellent soil, well
calculated for cultivation. It is a matter of regret, that in
proportion as the land improves the timber degenerates; and it is
to be remarked, that every where to the westward of the mountains
it is much inferior, both in size and quality, to that within the
present colony: there is however a sufficiency of timber of
tolerable quality within the district around Bathurst, for the
purposes of house building, and husbandry.</p>
<p>The governor has here to lament, that neither coals nor
limestone have been yet discovered in the western country; articles
in themselves of so much importance, that the want of them must be
severely felt, whenever that country shall be settled.</p>
<p>Having enumerated the principal and most important features of
this new country, the governor has now to notice some of its live
productions. All around Bathurst abounds in a variety of game; and
the two principal rivers contain a great quantity of fish, but all
of one denomination, resembling the perch in appearance, and of a
delicate and fine flavour, not unlike that of a rock cod; this fish
grows to a large size, and is very voracious. Several of them were
caught during the governor's stay at Bathurst, and at the
halting-place on the Fish River. One of those caught weighed
seventeen pounds, and the people stationed at Bathurst reported
they had caught some weighing twenty-five pounds. The field game
are the kangaroos, emus, black swans, wild geese, wild turkeys,
bustards, ducks of various kinds, quail, bronze-winged and other
pigeons, etc. etc. The water-mole also abounds in all the rivers
and ponds.</p>
<p>The site designed for the town of Bathurst by observation taken
at the flag-staff, which was erected on the day of Bathurst
receiving that name, is situated in latitude 33. 24. 30. S., and in
longitude 149. 29. 30. E. of Greenwich; being also twenty-seven
miles and a half north of Government House, in Sydney, and
ninety-four and a half west of it, bearing west 18. 20. N.,
eighty-three geographical miles, or ninety-five and a half statute
miles; the measured road distance from Sydney to Bathurst being one
hundred and forty English miles.</p>
<p>The road constructed by Mr. Cox, and the party under him,
commences at Emu Ford, on the left bank of the Nepean, and is
thence one hundred and one miles and a half to the flag-staff at
Bathurst: this road has been carefully measured, and each mile
regularly marked on the trees growing on the left side of the road,
proceeding towards Bathurst.</p>
<p>The governor in his tour made the following stages, in which he
was principally regulated by the consideration of his having good
pasturage for the cattle and plenty of water:</p>
<p>1st stage, Spring Wood, distant from Emu Ford, 12 miles.<br>
2nd ditto, Jamison's Valley, or 2nd depot, distant from ditto, 28
miles.<br>
3rd ditto, Blackheath, distant from ditto, 41 miles.<br>
4th ditto, Cox's River, distant from ditto, 56 miles.<br>
5th ditto, The Fish River, distant from ditto, 72 miles.<br>
6th ditto, Sidmouth Valley, distant from ditto, 80 miles.<br>
7th ditto, Campbell River, distant from ditto, 90 miles.<br>
8th ditto, Bathurst, distant from ditto, 101� miles.<br></p>
<p>At all of which places the traveller may assure himself of good
grass, and water in abundance.</p>
<hr>
<h3><a name="ch-3-3" id="ch-3-3"></a>No. III.</h3>
<p>Bathurst, August 30, 1817.</p>
<p>"Sir,</p>
<p>"I have the honour to acquaint your excellency with my arrival
at this place last evening, together with the persons comprising
the expedition to the westward, which your excellency was pleased
to place under my direction.</p>
<p>"Your excellency is already informed of my proceedings up to the
30th of April. The limits of a letter will not permit me to enter
at large into the occurrences of nineteen weeks; and as I shall
have the honour of waiting on your excellency in a few days, I
trust you will in the mean time have the goodness to accept the
summary account which I now offer.</p>
<p>"I proceeded down the Lachlan in company with the boats until
the 12th of May, the country rapidly descending, until the waters
of the river rising to a level with it, and dividing themselves
into numerous branches, inundated the land to the west and
north-west, and prevented any farther progress in that direction,
the river itself being lost among the marshes. Up to this point, it
had received no accession of waters from either side; but on the
contrary, was constantly dissipating itself in lagoons and
swamps.</p>
<p>"The impossibility of proceeding farther in conjunction with the
boats being evident, I determined upon mature deliberation to haul
them up; and divesting ourselves of every thing that could possibly
be spared, proceed with the horses loaded with the additional
provisions from the boats, on such a course towards the coast as
would intersect any stream that might arise from the divided waters
of the Lachlan.</p>
<p>"In pursuance of this plan, I quitted the river on the 17th of
May, taking a south-west course towards Cape Northumberland, as the
best adapted to answer my intended purpose. I will not here detail
the difficulties and privations we experienced in passing through a
barren and desolate country, without any water but such rain as was
found remaining in holes and the crevices of rocks. I continued
this course until the 9th of June, when having lost two horses
through fatigue and want, and the others being in a deplorable
condition, I changed our course to north, along a range of lofty
hills running in that direction, as they afforded the only means of
procuring water until we should fall in with some stream. On this
course I continued until the 23rd of June, when we again fell in
with a stream, which we had at first some difficulty to recognise
as the Lachlan, it being little larger than one of the branches of
it where we quitted it on the 17th of May.</p>
<p>"I did not hesitate a moment to pursue the course of this
stream, not that the nature of the country or its own appearance in
any manner indicated that it would become navigable, or even
permanent; but I was unwilling that the smallest doubt should
remain whether any navigable waters fall westward into the sea,
between the limits pointed out in my instructions.</p>
<p>"I continued along the banks of the stream until the 8th of
July, it having taken during this period a westerly direction, and
passed through a perfectly level country, barren in the extreme,
and being evidently at periods entirely under water. To this point
the river had been gradually diminishing, and spreading its waters
over stagnated lagoons and morasses, without receiving any
tributary stream that we knew of, during the whole extent of its
course. The banks were not more than three feet high, and the marks
of flood on the shrubs and bushes showed that at times it rose
between two and three feet higher, causing the whole country to
become a marsh, and altogether uninhabitable.</p>
<p>"Farther progress westward, had it been possible, was now
useless, as there was neither hill nor rising ground of any kind
within the compass of our view, which was bounded only by the
horizon in every quarter, and entirely devoid of timber, unless a
few diminutive gum, trees on the very edge of the stream might be
so termed. The water in the bed of the lagoon, as it might now be
properly denominated, was stagnant, its breadth about twenty feet,
and the heads of grass growing in it showed it to be about three
feet deep.</p>
<p>"This unlooked for and truly singular termination of a river,
which we had anxiously hoped, and reasonably expected, would have
led to a far different conclusion, filled us with the most painful
sensations. We were full five hundred miles west of Sydney, and
nearly in its latitude; and it had taken us ten weeks of unremitted
exertion to proceed so far. The nearest part of the coast about
Cape Bernoulli, had it been accessible, was distant above one
hundred and eighty miles. We had demonstrated beyond a doubt, that
no river could fall into the sea between Cape Otway and Spencer's
Gulf, at least none deriving its waters from the eastern coast; and
that the country south of the parallel of 34 degrees, and west of
the meridian 147. 30. E. was uninhabitable, and useless for all the
purposes of civilized men.</p>
<p>"It now became my duty to make our remaining resources as
extensively useful to the colony as our circumstances would allow;
these were much diminished: an accident which happened to one of
the boats in the outset of the expedition had deprived us of one
third of our dry provisions, of which we had originally a supply
for only eighteen weeks, and we had been consequently for some time
living on a reduced ration of two quarts of flour per man, per
week. To return to the depot by the route we had come would have
been as useless as impossible; and, seriously considering the
spirit of your excellency's instructions, I determined, after the
most mature deliberation, to take such a route, on our return, as
would I hoped comport with your excellency's views, had our then
situation ever been contemplated.</p>
<p>"Returning up the Lachlan, I recommenced the survey of it from
the point at which it was made on the 23rd of June, intending to
continue up its banks until its connection with the marshes where
we quitted it on the 17th of May was satisfactorily established, as
also to ascertain if any streams might have escaped our research.
The connection with all the points of the survey previously
determined, was completed between the 19th of July and the 3rd of
August. In the space passed over within that period, the river had
divided itself into various branches, and formed three fine lakes,
which, with one near the termination of our journey westward, were
the only considerable pieces of water we had yet seen; and I now
estimated that the river, from the place where it was first made by
Mr. Evans, had run a course, including all its windings, of upwards
of one thousand two hundred miles; a length altogether
unprecedented, when the single nature of the river is considered,
and that its original source constitutes its only supply of water
during that extent.</p>
<p>"Crossing at this point, it was my intention to take a
north-east course to intersect the country, and if possible to
ascertain what had become of the Macquarie River, which it was
clear had never joined the Lachlan. This course led us through a
country to the full as bad as any we had yet seen, and equally
devoid of water, the personal want of which again much distressed
us. On the 7th of August the scene began to change, and the country
to assume a very different aspect; we were now quitting the
neighbourhood of the Lachlan, and had passed to the north-east of
the high range of hills, which on this parallel bounds the low
country to the north of that river. To the north-west and north the
country was high and open, with good forest land; and on the 10th
we had the satisfaction of falling in with the first stream running
northerly. This renewed our hopes of soon falling in with the
Macquarie, and we continued upon the same course, occasionally
inclining to the eastward until the 19th, passing through a fine
luxuriant country, well watered; crossing in that space of time
nine streams, having a northerly course through rich valleys, the
country in every direction being moderately high and open, and
generally as fine as can be imagined.</p>
<p>"No doubt remained upon our minds that those streams fell into
the Macquarie, and to view it before it received such an accession,
was our first wish. On the 19th, we were gratified by failing in
with a river running through a most beautiful country, and which I
should have been well contented to have believed to be the river we
were in search of. Accident led us down this stream about a mile,
when we were surprised by its junction with a river coming from the
south, of such width and magnitude as to dispel all doubts as to
this last being the river we had so long anxiously looked for.
Limited as our resources were, we could not resist the temptation
which this beautiful country offered us, to remain two days upon
the junction of these rivers, for the purpose of examining its
vicinity to as great an extent as possible.</p>
<p>"Our examination increased the satisfaction we had previously
felt; as far as the eye could reach, in every direction, a rich and
picturesque country extended, abounding in limestone, slate, good
timber, and every other requisite which could render an
uncultivated country desirable.</p>
<p>"The soil cannot be excelled; whilst a noble river of the first
magnitude affords the means of conveying its productions from one
part of the country to the other. Where we quitted it, its course
was northerly, and we were then north of the parallel of Port
Stephens, being in latitude 32. 32. 45. S., and 148. 52. E.
longitude.</p>
<p>"It appeared to me that the Macquarie had taken a
north-north-west course from Bathurst, and that it must have
received immense accessions of water in its course from that place.
We viewed it at a period best calculated to form an accurate
judgment of its importance, when it was neither swelled by floods
beyond its natural and usual height, nor contracted within its
proper limits by summer droughts; of its magnitude when it should
have received the streams we had crossed, independently of any
which it may receive from the east (which, from the boldness and
height of the country, I presume must be at least as many as from
the south), some idea may be formed when I inform your excellency,
that at this point it exceeded in breadth and apparent depth the
Hawkesbury at Windsor, and that many of the reaches were of grander
and more extended proportion than the admired one on the Nepean
River, from the Warragamba to Emu Plains.</p>
<p>"Resolving to keep as near the river as possible during the
remainder of our course to Bathurst, and endeavour to ascertain at
least on the west side what waters fall into it, on the 22nd we
proceeded up the river, and, between the point quitted and
Bathurst, crossed the sources of numberless streams all running
into the Macquarie; two of them were nearly as large as that river
itself is at Bathurst. The country whence all these streams derive
their source was mountainous and irregular, and appeared equally so
on the east side of the Macquarie.</p>
<p>"This description of country extended to the immediate vicinity
of Bathurst, but to the west of those lofty ranges the land was
broken into low grassy hills and fine valleys, watered by rivulets
rising on the western side of the mountains, which on their eastern
side pour their waters directly into the Macquarie. These westerly
streams appeared to me to join that which at first sight I had
taken for the Macquarie, and, when united, to fall into it at the
point on which it was first discovered on the 19th instant. We
reached this place last evening, without a single accident having
occurred to any one of the party during the whole progress of the
expedition; which from this point has encircled within the
parallels of 34. 30. S. and 32. S., and between the meridians of
149. 29. 30. E. and 143. 30. E. a space of nearly one thousand
miles. I shall hasten to lay before your excellency the journals,
charts, and drawings, explanatory of the various occurrences of our
diversified route; amply gratified if our exertions should appear
to your excellency commensurate with your expectations, and the
ample means which your care and liberality placed at my
disposal.</p>
<p>"I feel the most particular pleasure in informing your
excellency of the obligations I am under to Mr. Evans, the deputy
surveyor, for his able advice and cordial co-operation throughout
the expedition; and, as far as his previous researches had
extended, the accuracy and fidelity of his narrative was fully
established.</p>
<p>"It would perhaps appear presumptuous in me to hazard an opinion
upon the merits of persons engaged in a pursuit in which I have
little knowledge; the extensive and valuable collection of plants
found by Mr. A. Cunningham, the King's botanist, and Mr. C. Frazer,
the colonial botanist, will best evince to your excellency the
unwearied industry and zeal bestowed in the discovery and
preservation of them; in every other respect they also merit the
highest praise.</p>
<p>"From the nature of the greater part of the country passed over,
our mineralogical collection is but small. Mr. S. Parr did as much
as could be done in that branch, and throughout endeavoured to
render himself as useful as possible.</p>
<p>"Of the men on whom the chief care of the horses and baggage
devolved, it is impossible to speak in too high terms. Their
conduct in periods of considerable privation, was such as must
redound to their credit; and their orderly, regular, and obedient
behaviour could not be exceeded. It may principally be attributed
to their care and attention, that we lost only three horses; and
that, with the exception of the loss of the dry provisions already
mentioned, no other accident happened during the course of the
expedition. I most respectfully beg leave to recommend them to your
excellency's favourable notice and consideration.</p>
<p>"I trust your excellency will have the goodness to correct any
omissions or inaccuracies that may appear in this letter: the
messenger setting out immediately will not allow me to revise or
correct it.</p>
<p>"I have the honour to remain, with the greatest respect, Your
excellency's most obedient and humble servant, (Signed), J. OXLEY,
Surveyor General."</p>
<p>To His Excellency, Governor Macquarie, etc., etc., etc.</p>
<hr>
<h2><a name="ch-4" id="ch-4"></a>APPENDIX. PART II.</h2>
<h3><a name="ch-4-4" id="ch-4-4"></a>No. IV.</h3>
<p>DIARY OF MR. EVANS, DEPUTY SURVEYOR GENERAL, FROM THE 8TH, TO
THE 18TH OF JULY 1818.</p>
<p>Wednesday, July 8.�Left Mount Harris about nine o'clock.
For six miles the country tolerably good; afterwards, to the end of
my day's journey, it was alternately acacia pendula scrubs, and
cypress brushes; the soil light, and full of holes; abundance of
water, but, latterly, no grass. In the evening halted on the bank
of a gully, having gone about twelve miles. Mount Harris bearing 8.
35. W.</p>
<p>July 9.�Set forward at eight o'clock, and continued
travelling until five in the afternoon, chiefly through very thick
brushes, consisting of various shrubs, with casuarina and dwarf box
trees; the country nearly a marsh and almost impassable, so much
so, that I had great difficulty in keeping my course, being the
greater part of the day up to our knees in water.</p>
<p>I estimate my distance this day to be about fifteen miles, on a
north-east course.</p>
<p>July 10.�The country worse than yesterday, being exceeding
low and marshy, with many thick scrubs. About eleven o'clock it
opened, being more thinly clothed with the acacia pendula: having
travelled about ten miles, we arrived on the borders of a large
apparent plain, on which I had proceeded about two miles, when we
were suddenly stopped by deep water among reeds; from hence I could
distinctly see Arbuthnot's Range, the north end of which bore N.
101., and the other part connected by a low range bore from N. 108
to N. 112.</p>
<p>The country from north-west to north-east was open with the
horizon, being covered with water and reeds, as far as the eye
could distinguish; we saw immense numbers of wild ducks, many black
swans, pelicans, and birds resembling the sea gannet: I altered my
course to east, and shortly afterwards to south-east.</p>
<p>I estimate the distance travelled this day to be eighteen miles.
Being rather late, we were much at a loss to find a place dry
enough to sleep on: the north end of Arbuthnot's Range bore N.
98.</p>
<p>July 11.�Finding our efforts to travel in any direction
north of east useless, I altered my course for the north end of
Arbuthnot's Range. The country continuing nearly as yesterday,
brushes and marshes alternately, having gone about twelve miles,
the last quarter of a mile of which was at an almost imperceptible
rise above the general level, I came to the edge of a river, the
stream of which was thirty or fort yards wide, but the bed nearly
one hundred yards, the banks being eight or nine feet high: I
forded it in the middle of a very long reach bearing north and
south, the stream clear, and running gently from the south, about
three feet deep, over a fine sandy bottom. After crossing this
river, I proceeded onwards about four miles, and halted on the edge
of a brush, having travelled sixteen or seventeen miles.</p>
<p>July 12.�After proceeding about four miles, we crossed a
small stream from the south-east; the country perfectly level, not
a perceptible rise in any direction, save Arbuthnot's Range: the
space travelled over to-day was a complete marsh, the soil good,
being clearly alluvial. It will be impossible for heavy loaded
horses to walk over the country, traversed by us these last three
days; the trouble we have had is more than can well be imagined.
Travelled fifteen miles.</p>
<p>July 13.�A very cold morning, set off at sunrise: at the
sixth mile arrived on an open plain, over which was rather better
travelling than we had latterly experienced. Finding it unlikely
that we should reach the range, at least in time to view the
country from it, I thought it best, as I had no time to spare, to
keep more southerly for a lofty eminence about two miles distant,
and apparently of easy ascent: this mount afforded me a most
extensive prospect. The south extreme of Arbuthnot's Range bore
south, the north extreme N. 20. E, then trends more easterly.
Westerly of the hill on which I stood and the range, the country is
a perfect level, without the slightest apparent rise or inequality;
what I could see of the country to the south-east, appeared to be
very broken and rugged, detached rocks projecting like pillars and
pyramids, in various parts of the ranges; there was a number of
native fires about the base of the range, and we saw plenty of
kangaroos, for the first time since quitting Mount Harris: I also
this day shot a new species of pigeon. The distance travelled, I
suppose sixteen or seventeen miles.</p>
<p>July 14.�Set forward on my return to the tents in a
south-west direction, and passed, for four or five miles, through a
good open forest country, abounding with kangaroos: after passing
that, the country altered for the worse, becoming low and wet: at
twelve miles, we crossed a chain of ponds leading to the north.</p>
<p>Last evening we suspected that we had been watched by the
natives. I saw some of them, and our resting-place was surrounded
by their smokes; they however did not attempt to molest us. Stopped
in an acacia pendula brush, having travelled about twenty
miles.</p>
<p>July 15.�It came on to rain in the night, and continued
all this day. Our journey was dreadfully bad and marshy; yet on the
whole the country had a better aspect, not being so much overrun
with the plant called atriplex as usual. On my track out, plains,
brushes, indeed almost the entire surface was covered with it,
until within a few miles of Arbuthnot's Range. After going about
three miles, we again fell in with and forded the river crossed on
the 11th instant: it was here not quite so wide as when first seen,
but deeper. Halted, having gone about ten miles.</p>
<p>July 16.�I altered my course from south-west to west, 80
degrees south, and had an extremely tedious and unpleasant day's
journey, through a wet and dreary country; continued rain.
Travelled fifteen miles.</p>
<p>July 18.�Arrived at the hut about one o'clock, p.m.,
having travelled yesterday and to-day about thirty-seven miles.</p>
<p>(Signed) G. W. EVANS.</p>
<hr>
<h3><a name="ch-4-5" id="ch-4-5"></a>No. V.</h3>
<p>GOVERNMENT, AND GENERAL ORDERS.</p>
<p>Government House, Parramatta,<br>
December 5, 1818.</p>
<p>CIVIL DEPARTMENT.</p>
<p>The sanguine hope which his excellency the governor was induced
to entertain, that, by pursuing the course of the Macquarie River,
which had been discovered running in a north-west direction by John
Oxley, Esq., on his return last year from tracing the course of the
Lachlan to the south-west, would have amply compensated for the
disappointment sustained on that occasion; and his excellency
having in consequence accepted the farther services of Mr. Oxley,
on a second expedition; the party consisting of John Oxley, Esq.,
surveyor general; John Harris, Esq., late surgeon of the 102nd
regiment, (who most liberally volunteered to accompany the
expedition); Mr. Evans, deputy surveyor general; and Mr. Charles
Fraser, colonial botanist; together with twelve men, having
eighteen horses and two boats, and provisions for twenty-four
weeks, took their final departure on the 4th of June last, from a
depot prepared for the occasion in the Wellington Valley, at about
ninety miles west of Bathurst; and those gentlemen, and the entire
party, having a few days since arrived at Port Jackson by sea, from
the northward, his excellency is happy in offering his most cordial
congratulations to John Oxley, Esq., the conductor of this
expedition, and to John Harris, Esq., Mr. Evans, and Mr. Fraser, on
their safe return from this arduous undertaking.</p>
<p>The zeal, talent, and attention manifested by Mr. Oxley,
considering the perils and privations to which he and his party
were exposed, in exploring a tract of country so singularly
circumstanced in its various bearings, are no less honourable to
Mr. Oxley than conducive to the public interest; and although the
principal object, namely, that of tracing the Macquarie River to
its embouchure, has not been so favourable as was anticipated, yet
the failure is in a great degree counterbalanced by other important
discoveries made in the course of this tour, which promise, at no
very remote period, to prove of material advantage to this rising
colony.</p>
<p>Whilst his excellency thus offers this public tribute of
congratulations, he desires to accompany it with expressions of his
high sense and approbation of Mr. Oxley's meritorious services on
this occasion; which his excellency will not fail to represent to
His Majesty's ministers, by the earliest opportunity.</p>
<p>The personal assistance and support so cheerfully and
beneficially afforded to Mr. Oxley by the gentlemen associated with
him on this expedition, demand his excellency's best
acknowledgments, which be is happy thus publicly to request them to
accept.</p>
<p>The following letter received from Mr. Oxley on his arrival at
Port Stephens, on the 1st of November last, is now published for
general information on the interesting subject of this tour.</p>
<p>By his excellency the governor's command,</p>
<p>J. T. CAMPBELL, Secretary.</p>
<hr>
<p>Port Stephens, November 1, 1818.</p>
<p>Sir,</p>
<p>I have the honour to inform your excellency, that I arrived at
this port to-day, and circumstances rendering it necessary that Mr.
Evans should proceed to Newcastle, I embrace the opportunity to
make to your excellency a brief report of the route pursued by the
western expedition entrusted to my direction.</p>
<p>My letter, dated the 22nd of June last, will have made your
excellency acquainted with the sanguine hopes I entertained, from
the appearance of the river, that its termination would be either
in interior waters, or coastwise. When I wrote that letter to your
excellency, I certainly did not anticipate the possibility, that a
very few days farther travelling would lead us to its termination
as an accessible river.</p>
<p>On the 28th of June, having traced its course without the
smallest diminution or addition, about seventy miles farther to the
north-north-west, there being a slight fresh in the river, it
overflowed its banks, and although we were at the distance of near
three miles from it, the country was so perfectly level that the
waters soon spread over the ground on which we were. We had been
for some days before travelling over such very low ground, that the
people in the boats finding the country flooded, proceeded slowly;
a circumstance which enabled me to send them directions to return
to the station we had quitted in the morning, where the ground was
a little more elevated. This spot being by no means secure, it was
arranged that the horses, with the provisions, should return to the
last high land we had quitted, a distance of sixteen miles; and as
it appeared to me that the body of water in the river was too
important to be much affected by the mere overflowing of its
waters, I determined to take the large boat, and in her to
endeavour to discover their point of discharge.</p>
<p>On the 2nd of July I proceeded in the boat down the river, and
in the course of the day went near thirty miles in a
north-north-west course, for ten of which there had been, strictly
speaking, no land, as the flood made the surrounding country a
perfect sea: the banks of the river were heavily timbered, and many
large spaces within our view, covered with the common reed, were
also encircled by large trees. On the third, the main channel of
the river was much contracted but very deep, the banks being under
water from a foot to eighteen inches; the stream continued for
about twenty miles on the same course as yesterday, when we lost
sight of land and trees, the channel of the river winding through
reeds, among which the water was about three feet deep, the current
having the same direction as the river. It continued in this manner
for near four miles more, when, without any previous change in the
breadth, depth, and rapidity of the stream, and when I was sanguine
in my expectations of soon entering the long-sought-for lake, it
all at once eluded our farther pursuit, by spreading at all points
from north-west to north-east over the plain of reeds which
surrounded us; the river decreasing in depth from upwards of twenty
feet to less than five feet, and flowing over a bottom of tenacious
blue mud; and the current still running with nearly the same
rapidity, as when the water was confined within the banks of the
river. This point of junction with interior waters, or where the
Macquarie ceased to have the form of a river, is in lat. 30. 45.
S., and long. 147. 10. E.</p>
<p>To assert positively that we were on the margin of the lake, or
sea, into which this great body of water is discharged, might
reasonably be deemed a conclusion that has nothing but conjecture
for its basis; but if an opinion may he hazarded from actual
appearances, which our subsequent route tended more strongly to
confirm, I feel confident we were in the immediate vicinity of an
inland sea, most probably a shoal one, and gradually decreasing, or
being filled up by the immense depositions from the waters flowing
into it from the higher lands, which, on this singular continent,
seem not to extend beyond a few hundred miles from the seacoast; as
westward of these bounding ranges, (which from the observations I
have been enabled to make, appear to me to run parallel to the
direction of the coast), there is not a single hill or other
eminence discoverable on this apparently boundless space, those
isolated points excepted, on which we remained until the 28th of
July; the rocks, and stones composing which, are a distinct species
from those found on the above ranges.</p>
<p>I trust your excellency will believe, that fully impressed with
the great importance of the question, as to the interior formation
of this great country, I was anxiously solicitous to remove all
ground for farther conjecture, by the most careful observations on
the nature of the country; which though it was to me a proof that
the interior was covered with water, yet I felt it my duty to leave
no measure untried which would in any way tend to a direct
elucidation of the fact.</p>
<p>It was physically impracticable to gain the edge of these waters
by making a detour round the flooded portion of the country on the
south-west side of the river, as we proved it to be a barren wet
marsh, overrun with a species of polygonum, and not offering a
single dry spot to which our course might be directed; and that
there was no probability of finding any in that direction, I had a
certain knowledge from the observations made during the former
expedition. To circle the flooded country to the north-east yet
remained to be tried; and when on the 7th of July I returned to the
tents, which I found pitched on the high land before mentioned, and
from whence we could see mountains at the distance of eighty miles
to the eastward, the country between being a perfect level, Mr.
Evans was sent forward to explore the country to the north-east,
that being the point on which I purposed to set forward.</p>
<p>On the 18th of July Mr. Evans returned, having been prevented
from continuing on a north-east course beyond two day's journey, by
waters running north-easterly through high reeds, and which were
most probably those of the Macquarie River; as during his absence
it had swelled so considerably as entirely to surround us, coming
within a few yards of the tent. Mr. Evans afterwards proceeded more
easterly, and, at a distance of fifty miles from the Macquarie
River, crossed another much wider but not so deep, running to the
north: advancing still more easterly, he went nearly to the base of
the mountains seen from the tent, and returning a more southerly
route, found the country somewhat drier, but not in the least more
elevated.</p>
<p>The discretionary instructions with which your excellency was
pleased to furnish me, leaving me at liberty as to the course to be
pursued by the expedition on its return to Port Jackson, I
determined to attempt making the sea-coast on an easterly course,
first proceeding along the base of the high range before mentioned,
which I still indulged hopes might lead me to the margin of these,
or any other interior waters which this portion of New South Wales
might contain; and embracing a low line of coast on which many
small openings remained unexamined, at the same time that the
knowledge obtained of the country to be encircled, might materially
tend to the advantage of the colony, in the event of any
communication with the interior being discovered.</p>
<p>We quitted this station on the 30th of July, being in latitude
31. 18. S., and longitude 147. 31. E. on our route for the coast;
and on the 8th of August arrived at the lofty range of mountains to
which our course had been directed. From the highest point of this
range we had the most extended prospect. From south by the west to
north, it was one vast level, resembling the ocean in extent, but
yet without water being discerned, the range of high land extending
to the north-east by north, elevated points of which were
distinguished upwards of one hundred and twenty miles.</p>
<p>From this point, in conformity to the resolution I had made on
quitting the Macquarie River, I pursued a north-east course; but
after encountering numerous difficulties from the country being an
entire marsh, interspersed with quicksands, until the 20th of
August, and finding I was surrounded by bogs, I was reluctantly
compelled to take a more easterly course, having practically proved
that the country could not be traversed on any point deviating from
the main range of hills which bound the interior; although partial
dry portions of level alluvial land extend from their base westerly
to a distance which I estimate to exceed one hundred and fifty
miles, before it is gradually lost in the waters which I am clearly
convinced cover the interior. The alteration in our course more
easterly, soon brought us into a very different description of
country, forming a remarkable contrast to that which had so long
occupied us. Numerous fine streams, running northerly, watered a
rich and beautiful country, through which we passed until the 7th
of September, when we crossed the meridian of Sydney, as also the
most elevated known land in New South Wales, being, then in
latitude 31. S. We were afterwards considerably embarrassed and
impeded by very lofty mountains. On the 20th of September, we
gained the summit of the most elevated mountain in this extensive
range, and from it we were gratified with a view of the ocean, at a
distance of fifty miles; the country beneath us being formed into
an immense triangular valley, the base of which extended along the
coast from the Three Brothers on the south, to the high land north
of Smoky Cape. We had the farther gratification to find that we
were near the source of a large stream running to the sea. On
descending the mountain, we followed the course of this river,
increased by many accessions, until the 8th of October, when we
arrived on the beach near the entrance of the port which received
it; having passed over, since the 18th of July, a tract of country
near five hundred miles in extent from west to east.</p>
<p>This inlet is situated in lat. 31. 25. 45. S., and long. 162.
53. 54. E., and had been previously noticed by Captain Flinders,
but from the distance at which he was necessarily obliged to keep
from the coast, he did not discover that it had a navigable
entrance; of course our most anxious attention was directed to this
important point; and although the want of a boat rendered the
examination as to the depth of water in the channel incomplete, yet
there appeared to be at low water at least three fathoms, with a
safe though narrow entrance between the sand-rollers on either
hand. Having ascertained thus far, and that by its means the fine
country on the banks, and in the neighbourhood of the river, might
be of future service to the colony, I took the liberty to name it
Port Macquarie, in honour of your excellency, as the original
promoter of the expedition.</p>
<p>On the 12th of October, we quitted Port Macquarie on our course
for Sydney; and although no charts can be more accurate in their
outline and principal points than those of Captain Flinders, we
soon experienced how little the best marine charts can he depended
upon, to show all the inlets and openings upon an extensive line of
coast. The distance his ship was generally at, from that portion of
the coast we had to travel over, did not allow him to perceive
openings, which, though doubtless of little consequence to
shipping, yet presented the most serious difficulties to travellers
by land; and of which, if they had been laid down in the chart, I
should have hesitated to have attempted the passage without
assistance from the sea-ward: as it is, we are indebted for our
preservation, and that of the horses, to the providential discovery
of a small boat on the beach, which the men with the most cheerful
alacrity carried upwards of ninety miles on their shoulders,
thereby enabling us to overcome obstacles, otherwise
insurmountable.</p>
<p>Until within these few days, I hoped to have had the
satisfaction to report the return of the expedition without
accident to any individual composing it; but such is the ferocious
treachery of the natives along the coast to the northward, that our
utmost circumspection could not save us from having one man
(William Blake), severely wounded by them; but by the skillful care
bestowed upon him by Dr. Harris, (who accompanied the expedition as
a volunteer, and to whom upon this occasion, and throughout the
whole course of it, we are indebted for much valuable assistance);
I trust his recovery is no longer doubtful.</p>
<p>The general merits of Mr. Evans are so well known to your
excellency, that it will here be sufficient to observe, that by his
zealous attention to every point that could facilitate the progress
of the expedition, he has endeavoured to deserve a continuance of
your excellency's approbation.</p>
<p>Mr. Charles Fraser, the colonial botanist, has added many new
species to the already extended catalogue of Australian plants,
besides an extensive collection of seeds, etc.; and in the
collection, and preservation, he has indefatigably endeavoured to
obtain your excellency's approval of his services.</p>
<p>I confidently hope that the Journal of the expedition will amply
evince to your excellency the exemplary and praiseworthy conduct of
the men employed on it; and I feel the sincerest pleasure in
earnestly soliciting for them your excellency's favourable
consideration.</p>
<p>Respectfully hoping, that on a perusal and inspection of the
journals and charts of the expedition, that the course I have
penned in the execution of your excellency's instructions will be
honoured by your approbation,</p>
<p>I beg leave to subscribe myself, with the greatest respect,</p>
<p>Sir,<br>
Your excellency's most obedient and humble servant,<br>
(Signed), JOHN OXLEY, Surveyor General.<br>
To His Excellency, Governor Macquarie, etc., etc., etc.</p>
<hr>
<h3><a name="ch-4-6" id="ch-4-6"></a>No. VI.</h3>
<p>GOVERNMENT AND GENERAL ORDERS.</p>
<p>Government House, Sydney,<br>
Thursday, June 17, 1819.<br>
CIVIL DEPARTMENT.</p>
<p>It is with feelings of much gratification that his excellency
The Governor is at length enabled to announce, thus publicly, that
a safe capacious harbour has been discovered, and now accurately
described, situated to the north-east of Newcastle; from whence it
is distant about one hundred and forty miles, and consequently
about two hundred and twenty miles in the same direction from Port
Jackson.</p>
<p>This harbour, which was discovered by John Oxley, Esq., surveyor
general, on his reaching the coast last year from his tour of
discovery in the interior, then obtained from him the name of Port
Macquarie; and although, owing to his not having any boat or vessel
at that time, he could not then ascertain the soundings, and
practicability of the entrance into this harbour, yet the general
appearances were sufficiently favourable to induce him to form the
opinion that it would prove safe; and from the circumstances of the
surrounding country being well watered, and fertile, and the large
River Hastings discharging itself into the sea there, he concluded
that a port so happily situated would be a valuable acquisition to
this colony. Impressed with this idea. he did not fail to report
his opinion in regard to it to his excellency, who was happy to
provide Mr. Oxley with a suitable vessel, to enable him to make the
necessary survey of the entrance and harbour of Port Macquarie.</p>
<p>The result of this survey having been as satisfactory as could
have been expected, his excellency is pleased to give publicity to
Mr. Oxley's own clear and circumstantial report on this valuable
acquisition; and his excellency desires to express his full and
entire approbation of Mr. Oxley's intelligent, zealous, and
indefatigable exertions on this arduous occasion, which evince an
earnest and well directed desire to promote the public service, and
to advance the interests of the colony.</p>
<p>His excellency is also happy to add the expression of his
approbation of the liberal and judicious assistance rendered to Mr.
Oxley, by Lieutenant King, commander of His Majesty's colonial
cutter, Mermaid, whose exertions are so justly appreciated by Mr.
Oxley, in the following report; and his excellency desires both
those gentlemen to accept his thanks for the service thus rendered
by their joint efforts to the colony.</p>
<p>By his excellency's command,<br>
J. T. CAMPBELL, Secretary.</p>
<hr>
<p>Sydney, June 12, 1819.</p>
<p>Sir,</p>
<p>In obedience to your excellency's commands to proceed in the
Lady Nelson, for the purpose of examining the entrance into Port
Macquarie, and how far it would be practicable and safe for vessels
of a certain description to enter it, I beg leave to report to your
excellency, that I arrived off the entrance of the harbour, on the
11th of May, in company with His Majesty's cutter, Mermaid,
commanded by Lieutenant King, who expressed his intention to
forward, by the superior means possessed by his vessel, the view of
your excellency, relative to the harbour.</p>
<p>Both vessels anchored off the bar, and the day was spent in
sounding the bar and channel; when we had the pleasure to find that
we could enter with safety. Accordingly the next morning they were
warped into the harbour, and moored alongside a natural wharf, on
the south side of the port.</p>
<p>The examination of the harbour, and river falling therein,
occupied us until the 21st, when having completed the service
directed by your excellency, both vessels quitted the port with
perfect ease; the Mermaid pursuing her course to the northward on
her ulterior destination.</p>
<p>Port Macquarie is situated in latitude 31. 25. 45. S., and in
longitude 152. 53. 54. E. It is a bar harbour, on which however
there is at low water spring tides, at least nine feet; the tide
rising from three to four feet. The true channel is perfectly
straight, and the tides set so, that no danger is to be apprehended
from their operation. The chief danger to be avoided on entering is
a sunken rock on the south side, having about three feet on it at
low water; and it will he necessary, should the port he settled,
that this danger should he buoyed. The bar extends about two
hundred yards; the bottom a soft sand when the water deepens to two
fathoms and a half, and alternately to three fathoms, when secure
anchorage will be found inside the Beacon Rock.</p>
<p>When vessels arrive off the bar, should the wind or tide be
adverse to entering the port, good anchorage will he found in from
five to eight fathoms outside the bar; Tacking Point being shut in
by Peaked Hill Point. When the winds are from the south, round by
the west to north, the bottom a clear sand.</p>
<p>The winds from north-east and south-east, if blowing strong,
cause the water to break across: but as those winds are fair for
entering, no danger is to be apprehended to vessels whose draft of
water does not exceed nine or ten feet. Should however
circumstances render it imprudent or impracticable to enter, the
coast may be cleared on either tack, the indenture of the coast
line not being such as to cause it ever to be a dangerous lee
shore.</p>
<p>The port should be entered at or near high water, when, unless
it blows very hard, it seldom breaks on the bar. The tide of ebb
runs with great rapidity, sometimes nearly four miles per hour,
owing to the great quantity of fresh water in the Hastings River,
and the narrowness of the channel. The flood tide seldom exceeds
one mile and three quarters per hour. The tides are however very
irregular in their operation, being considerably influenced by
local circumstances. The port is perfectly capable to receive
vessels of the class usually employed on the coasts of this
territory, and is in my opinion far better and safer than many
considerable bar harbours in Europe; and which are much frequented
by vessels adapted to their navigation.</p>
<p>Within the port the water deepens to five and six fathoms, which
depth continues for nearly ten miles, when the rapids of the river
render it impracticable for craft drawing more than six or eight
feet; which depth continues for six or eight miles farther, when
the falls commence; it may however, when the river is ordinarily
full, be navigable for boats some little distance farther.</p>
<p>My report to your excellency of the proceedings of the
expedition of discovery on its return in October, 1818, will have
put your excellency in possession of the nature and description of
country watered by the River Hastings from its source until it
falls into the sea at Port Macquarie.</p>
<p>To that report I respectfully beg to refer your excellency, as
my opportunities of examining the country, at that period, were of
course so much more extensive. To the productions of the country as
then reported, may now be added great quantities of rose wood, the
flooded gum, and coal. Flint was before noticed lying in large
masses on the beach. The coal, as appears to me, may be worked
without difficulty, as I think that a stratum of it pervades the
whole of the south side of the harbour, which stratum is again seen
southerly as far as Camden Haven.</p>
<p>I herewith respectfully submit to your excellency a plan of the
entrance into the port, with a sketch of part of Hastings River,
for which I am principally indebted to the assistance rendered me
on all occasions by Lieutenant King, who, I am happy in reporting
to your excellency, fully coincides with me, as to the advantages
that may he expected to result from the knowledge that the port has
a navigable and safe entrance; thereby affording a communication
with the fine country on both banks of Hastings River.</p>
<p>I have the honour to remain, with great respect, Your
excellency's most obedient and humble servant, J. OXLEY, Surveyor
General.</p>
<p>To His Excellency, Governor Macquarie, etc., etc., etc.</p>
<hr>
<p><a name="ch-5" id="ch-5"></a></p>
<pre>A BRIEF ABSTRACT OF THE GENERAL POPULATION OF NEW SOUTH WALES, NOT
INCLUDING VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, FOR THE YEARS 1815, 1816, 1817, INCLUSIVE.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
      |                         Souls at                          |
      |-----------------------------------------------------------|
Year. |  Sydney.   Parramatta.   Windsor.   Liverpool.  Newcastle.| Total.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1815  |   5668        2566        2749        1167          346   | 12,911
1816  |   6882        3581        3164        1550          413   | 15,175
1817  |   7409        4257        4257        1922          553   | 17,265
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
</pre>
<p><a name="ch-6" id="ch-6"></a></p>
<pre>A STATEMENT OF THE LAND IN CULTIVATION ETC., QUANTITIES OF STOCK, ETC.,
IN NEW SOUTH WALES, NOT INCLUDING VAN DIEMENS LAND, FOR THE FOLLOWING
FIVE YEARS, VIZ. 1813,1814,1815, 1816,1817, INCLUSIVE.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   |                       Acres in                                |
   |---------------------------------------------------------------|
   |                     Peas      Garden                          |
Yr.|            Bar-     and Potat  and   Cleared Total Hor  Horned|
18-|Wheat Maize ley Oats Bean -oes Orchard Ground held  -ses Cattle|Sheep Hogs
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
13  7386 13814  694 299   68   308   960   52976 151057 1891 12543 45621 14641
14  8571  5880  537 355   33   205   906   61679 181787 2197 23263 73230 10921
15 10712  6089  708 610   51   333   901   67521 208547 2328 25279 62476 10106
16 13238  7540  836 787   68   380  1102   88685 221657 2451 21116 55097 11372
17 14446 11714  656 148  108   335   863   92894 224003 2851 33637 66684 15634
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
</pre>
<hr>
<h2><a name="ch-9" id="ch-9"></a>INDEX</h2>
<p style="text-align:center"><b>Note: Use the "search" facility in
your software to search for items in the index.</b></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0018.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0019.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0020.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0021.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0022.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0023.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0024.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0025.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0026.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0027.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0028.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0029.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0030.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0031.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0032.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0033.jpg"></p>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="chart-8-1" id="chart-8-1"></a><a href="https://gutenberg.net.au/ebooks/e00037-images/Oxley_0034a-big.jpg"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0034a-small.jpg"></a><br>
<br>
Range of the Thermometer from April 9th to August 30th 1817 by John
Oxley.</p>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="chart-8-2" id="chart-8-2"></a><a href="https://gutenberg.net.au/ebooks/e00037-images/Oxley_0034c-big.jpg"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0034c-small.jpg"></a><br>
<br>
A Chart of Part of the Interior of New South Wales, 1817. First
Expedition.</p>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="chart-8-3" id="chart-8-3"></a><a name="chart-8-4" id="chart-8-4"></a><a href="https://gutenberg.net.au/ebooks/e00037-images/Oxley_0035-big.jpg"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0035-small.jpg"></a><br>
<br>
A Chart of Part of the Interior of New South Wales, 1818. Second
Expedition.<br>
Reduced Sketch of the Two Expeditions.</p>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="chart-8-5" id="chart-8-5"></a><a href="https://gutenberg.net.au/ebooks/e00037-images/Oxley_0036-big.jpg"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0036-small.jpg"></a><br>
<br>
A Plan of Port Macquarie Including a Sketch of Part of Hastings
River, on the East Coast of New South Wales.</p>
<p style="text-align:center"><a name="chart-8-6" id="chart-8-6"></a><a name="chart-8-7" id="chart-8-7"></a><a href="https://gutenberg.net.au/ebooks/e00037-images/Oxley_0037-big.jpg"><img alt="" src="Oxley_Journals_1850_files/Oxley_0037-small.jpg"></a><br>
A General Statement of the Inhabitants of New South Wales as per
General Muster commencing 28th September 1818, with an account of
same at Van Diemmens Land.<br>
<br>
A General Statement of the Land in Cultivation etc., the quantities
of Stock etc., as accounted for at the General Muster, with an
account of same at Van Diemmens Land.</p>
<hr>
<h2>THE END</h2>


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